Latest news with #Chilango
Hypebeast
7 days ago
- Entertainment
- Hypebeast
Hypebeast Community Center：專訪墨西哥酷兒品牌 TANAMACHI
用電梯簡報形式向我們介紹 TANAMACHI。 TANAMACHI是來自墨西哥的酷兒品牌，靈感取材自 CDMX 日常生活中的善惡兩面。我們以本地 deadstock 布料打造易於穿著、無性別的服飾，讓衣服說故事 —— 說我們自己的故事。我們相信，時裝不只是一塊布，更是一種溝通與賦能的力量。 誰在買 TANAMACHI？ CDMX 那班最 in 的潮流頑童；懂的自然懂。 TANAMACHI 的核心訊息是什麼？ 一切關於「愛」與「可能性」：TANAMACHI 源於一對戀人 —— 負責創意的我（Toshiharu）與主理營運的 Mauricio。我們深信墨西哥毋須向外取經，也能講出自己的設計語言；在這片土地經營創意品牌，同樣可以闖出成績。 TANAMACHI 何時正式面世？ 首件縫上 TANAMACHI 標籤的作品誕生於 2018 年。起初我只做訂製西裝，直到疫情期間遇上 Mauricio；Mau 的商業腦把品牌帶向 ready-to-wear。 人們會在哪裡穿 TANAMACHI？ 任何場合！這正是我們單品的魅力 —— 真正實穿。由健身房、會議室、晚餐到夜蒲，都能自在又有型。 為何要創立 TANAMACHI？ 因為沒有人替我們把這段故事穿上身！再說，我對時裝的痴迷已無可救藥，想不到別的出路。 你的混血背景如何影響你的設計美學？ 這故事有點複雜。我的曾祖父母與祖父母為逃離二戰，從日本輾轉來到墨西哥。落腳沒多久，隨著戰事加劇，墨西哥政府將日、意、德裔移民拘禁長達 5 年。獲釋後，祖父母害怕再被標籤成日本人，於是告訴父親和一眾叔伯姑姨：「你們跟 taco 一樣地道墨西哥。」他們否認自己的血脈，只怕歷史重演。我和堂兄妹正在拼湊線索，重新連結祖源，但我想我終究還是更像墨西哥人。 在創立 TANAMACHI 之前，有哪些塑造你創意的啟蒙？ Stefani Joanne Angelina Germanotta（Lady Gaga）以及墨西哥流行文化：María Félix、Teresa Chávez、Thalía、Pedro Ramírez Vázquez，再到「Mexican Miracle」。 你的 Box 輪廓不斷出現在迷你短褲、長褲、裙裝等設計。為何拳擊成了品牌核心元素？ 我討厭運動，但熱愛復古運動裝。對於我這個同志又懶運動的人來說，一想到 Chilango 的運動就會浮現拳擊、lucha libre 和足球。傳統運動裝舒適卻欠美感，我們便想把兩邊優點結合 —— 既舒適又時髦。於是把拳擊腰帶元素放進任何下身款式，概念就此誕生。 可以多講講 CDMX 的創意圈嗎？ CDMX 一直都是創意熔爐，歷史離奇又悠長，任何事情都有可能發生。或許這裡就是真正的造夢工廠，而世人現在才開始注意。 在 CDMX，還有哪些品牌或設計師是你現在最愛的？ 這裡幾乎每種品味都找得到對應品牌，例如 Campillo、Cueva、Ppaayyss、ODIC、Barragán、Ditzy 等。 你與酷兒社群緊密相連 —— 這份身份如何影響品牌訊息與策略？ 在這個年代，毫無歉意地做自己、驕傲地 queer，本身就是力量。我們會一直在這裡。 為何決定在系列中全面使用 deadstock 布料？ 時裝是地球上最具污染性的行業之一；選用本地 deadstock 物料這個小舉動，也算為大局盡一分力。 使用 deadstock 設計時會遇到什麼挑戰？ 這確實是一把雙刃劍：每款只能做少量，利弊並存。設計時我們無法預先鎖定布料，因為不知道會淘到什麼。我們跑到 CDMX 市中心尋寶，也許能找到 10 米真絲，但下次就再也遇不到。 可以分享一下你們最新的 drop／系列嗎？ HOT PEOPLE FROM MY TEENS SS25是一封寫給 2000 年代末、在 CDMX 度過青春歲月的我們的情書，用漫畫式誇張去描繪那些早已成為回憶的典型角色：emo kid、Mirrey、Hi5 蛇蠍美人到 wannabe indie sleaze kid。系列歌頌那股「改變世界」的少年焦躁 —— 畢竟，有時感覺當年被承諾的未來根本沒有到來，甚至更糟。 歷來系列中，你最鍾愛哪件單品？ 首個系列的 Pachuco 西裝 —— 讓我們被市場看見；拳擊長褲 —— 它們幫我們交租；首場走秀的 quinceañera 拳擊裙 —— 最能濃縮我們的願景；還有 SS25 的銀色氣球裙 —— 可愛到瘋。 未來還想探索哪些主題或品類？ 我們想推出品牌首支標誌性香氛！我迷戀派對散場後香水混著煙味的氣息…… 又或者做鞋？我也想打造下一雙「it」級墨西哥鞋。 你怎樣看 chanclas／夾腳拖回歸成為潮流？ 此刻答題的我正穿著一雙可愛的皮涼鞋。終於，男人也肯 —— 字面意義上 —— 把腳趾塞進有趣的鞋子裡。不過如果你住在城市，回家洗腳可是必須。
Fashion Network
30-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Elsewhere in Paris menswear: Willy Chavarria, Kolor, and Riefe
Three creators caught the eye this weekend in Paris for bold aesthetic statements and insights into where men, and menswear, is heading: Willy Chavarria, Kolor, and Riefe. Willy Chavarria: Return to Huron Willy Chavarria returned to his roots, referencing Huron, his hometown in California, in a show that was a counterblast to neo-fascistic intolerance in today's America. See catwalk Dramatically, the show inside the Salle Pleyel concert hall, opened with 35 cast members appearing in the same elongated white T-shirt prison garb worn by individuals brutally abducted and expelled to El Salvador by the Trump administration. Willy's performance was supported by the American Civil Liberties Union, which is why each T-shirt read: "The ACLU dares to create a more perfect union - beyond one person, party, or side." A scene that mirrored the infamous video of Homeland Security Secretary Kristi Noem vulgarly bragging about evicting hundreds of Venezuelans from the United States to a brutal jail without any due process. One of the most sordid pages in recent American history. 'I'm not interested in luxury as a symbol of privilege. I'm interested in luxury as a symbol of truth in one's own character. Exquisite tailoring and craftsmanship worn to elevate one's personal intent – that's power. That's fashion,' said Chavarria, after a show reflecting on the dehumanization of how immigrants are being treated in the United States. See catwalk On the runway, Willy responded with refined tailoring and classy fabrics, milled in Italy exclusively cut into voluminous shapes. For women trench-coat dresses and mannish pants suits, pencil skirts and screen goddess columns. All made in kicky colors - papaya, Bourdin blue, searing red, shocking turquoise, canary yellow. For guys, a Chilango men's silhouette, a hyper forgiving cut and extended silhouette for lots of drama. Before the show turned into a display of the third expression of his Adidas Originals x Willy Chavarria collaboration. Seen in lots of graphic logo tops, diaphanous cargo pants, and triple stripe techy gilets and jerkins. Along with a new Originals x Willy Chavarria new running model with the Megaride AG and Megaride AG XL. An admirable political statement at a moment when masked men are directed to arrest and deport anyone who might stand in the way of the Trumpian neo-fascistic government. So, even if not, perhaps, Chavarria's greatest fashion show to date, given its familiar treading over familiar ground, a powerful, and very correct, political statement. Kolor kicks ass This weekend marked the debut show of new creative director, Taro Horiuchi, for the coolly offbeat house of Kolor, and it was definitely a kick-ass first showing. See catwalk Founder Junichi Abe quit Kolor last season, in a final show inside the bunker like Communist headquarters in north Paris. Horiuchi chose a sunny garden in the storied fifth arrondissement, which also happened to be the center for deaf children. The designer's focus was on blending active sports and trail style into something cool, and by and large, he succeeded very well. Pairing plantation dandy cotton blazers with tech-y running mesh tops; or placing lightweight mountaineers gilets under floaty trenches. For women, combining a frilly ace blouse with a hiker's waistcoat, or morphing a nylon parka into a sexy sheath. All very impactful visually. In a co-ed show, guys and gals wore interchangeable garments, except for evening, when Horiuchi added acres of tulle to technical gabardine cocktails. See catwalk A statement show aided by some very savvy styling by Camille Bidault Waddington. Staged before a very cool gang of French fashionistas and funky fashionistas and backed up by an ace soundtrack including cuts like "Toxic Waste" by Diggy. Born in Tokyo, Horiuchi is a graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp, who has won the International Talent Support Diesel Award. Prior to today, Taro has led his own eponymous, while also contributing to Muji Labo. 'Time travel, chic humor, the hours, the waves,' was Horiuchi sibylline comment on his designs. Abe founded Kolor in 2004, after studying at Bunka fashion school and working for Comme des Garcons and Junya Watanabe. Today, he found a worthy successor. To sum up, this show felt like a triumph. Taro Horiuchi has arrived. Riefe: Rockin' jewelry from Tokyo on Isle St Louis A little rock'n'roll, a soupçon of attitude and the off-beat design of Japan, and you have Riefe, a cool collection of jewelry by Rie Harui. See catwalk Willowy and wily, Harui unveiled her latest collection in a cute showroom on Ile St Louis overlooking the Seine. Presented in tiny silver pans of water, where each jewel was positioned on concrete blocks. In a busy week, Harui also designed jewelry for the next menswear show of Yohji Yamamoto, which took place Thursday in the Japanese master's French HQ in the Marais. Harui has been working with Yohji since 2021, attracted to her blend of fine Japanese artisanship and kicky design. She creates bracelets in rectangular links in silver or white gold, and adds glimmering gemstones and makes pride of place go to modernist pearl necklaces. To be clear, menswear's best new jeweler in many seasons.
Fashion Network
30-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Elsewhere in Paris menswear: Willy Chavarria, Kolor, and Riefe
Three creators caught the eye this weekend in Paris for bold aesthetic statements and insights into where men, and menswear, is heading: Willy Chavarria, Kolor, and Riefe. Willy Chavarria: Return to Huron Willy Chavarria returned to his roots, referencing Huron, his hometown in California, in a show that was a counterblast to neo-fascistic intolerance in today's America. See catwalk Dramatically, the show inside the Salle Pleyel concert hall, opened with 35 cast members appearing in the same elongated white T-shirt prison garb worn by individuals brutally abducted and expelled to El Salvador by the Trump administration. Willy's performance was supported by the American Civil Liberties Union, which is why each T-shirt read: "The ACLU dares to create a more perfect union - beyond one person, party, or side." A scene that mirrored the infamous video of Homeland Security Secretary Kristi Noem vulgarly bragging about evicting hundreds of Venezuelans from the United States to a brutal jail without any due process. One of the most sordid pages in recent American history. 'I'm not interested in luxury as a symbol of privilege. I'm interested in luxury as a symbol of truth in one's own character. Exquisite tailoring and craftsmanship worn to elevate one's personal intent – that's power. That's fashion,' said Chavarria, after a show reflecting on the dehumanization of how immigrants are being treated in the United States. See catwalk On the runway, Willy responded with refined tailoring and classy fabrics, milled in Italy exclusively cut into voluminous shapes. For women trench-coat dresses and mannish pants suits, pencil skirts and screen goddess columns. All made in kicky colors - papaya, Bourdin blue, searing red, shocking turquoise, canary yellow. For guys, a Chilango men's silhouette, a hyper forgiving cut and extended silhouette for lots of drama. Before the show turned into a display of the third expression of his Adidas Originals x Willy Chavarria collaboration. Seen in lots of graphic logo tops, diaphanous cargo pants, and triple stripe techy gilets and jerkins. Along with a new Originals x Willy Chavarria new running model with the Megaride AG and Megaride AG XL. An admirable political statement at a moment when masked men are directed to arrest and deport anyone who might stand in the way of the Trumpian neo-fascistic government. So, even if not, perhaps, Chavarria's greatest fashion show to date, given its familiar treading over familiar ground, a powerful, and very correct, political statement. Kolor kicks ass This weekend marked the debut show of new creative director, Taro Horiuchi, for the coolly offbeat house of Kolor, and it was definitely a kick-ass first showing. See catwalk Founder Junichi Abe quit Kolor last season, in a final show inside the bunker like Communist headquarters in north Paris. Horiuchi chose a sunny garden in the storied fifth arrondissement, which also happened to be the center for deaf children. The designer's focus was on blending active sports and trail style into something cool, and by and large, he succeeded very well. Pairing plantation dandy cotton blazers with tech-y running mesh tops; or placing lightweight mountaineers gilets under floaty trenches. For women, combining a frilly ace blouse with a hiker's waistcoat, or morphing a nylon parka into a sexy sheath. All very impactful visually. In a co-ed show, guys and gals wore interchangeable garments, except for evening, when Horiuchi added acres of tulle to technical gabardine cocktails. See catwalk A statement show aided by some very savvy styling by Camille Bidault Waddington. Staged before a very cool gang of French fashionistas and funky fashionistas and backed up by an ace soundtrack including cuts like "Toxic Waste" by Diggy. Born in Tokyo, Horiuchi is a graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp, who has won the International Talent Support Diesel Award. Prior to today, Taro has led his own eponymous, while also contributing to Muji Labo. 'Time travel, chic humor, the hours, the waves,' was Horiuchi sibylline comment on his designs. Abe founded Kolor in 2004, after studying at Bunka fashion school and working for Comme des Garcons and Junya Watanabe. Today, he found a worthy successor. To sum up, this show felt like a triumph. Taro Horiuchi has arrived. Riefe: Rockin' jewelry from Tokyo on Isle St Louis A little rock'n'roll, a soupçon of attitude and the off-beat design of Japan, and you have Riefe, a cool collection of jewelry by Rie Harui. See catwalk Willowy and wily, Harui unveiled her latest collection in a cute showroom on Ile St Louis overlooking the Seine. Presented in tiny silver pans of water, where each jewel was positioned on concrete blocks. In a busy week, Harui also designed jewelry for the next menswear show of Yohji Yamamoto, which took place Thursday in the Japanese master's French HQ in the Marais. Harui has been working with Yohji since 2021, attracted to her blend of fine Japanese artisanship and kicky design. She creates bracelets in rectangular links in silver or white gold, and adds glimmering gemstones and makes pride of place go to modernist pearl necklaces. To be clear, menswear's best new jeweler in many seasons.
Fashion Network
30-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Elsewhere in Paris menswear: Willy Chavarria, Kolor, and Riefe
Three creators caught the eye this weekend in Paris for bold aesthetic statements and insights into where men, and menswear, is heading: Willy Chavarria, Kolor, and Riefe. Willy Chavarria: Return to Huron Willy Chavarria returned to his roots, referencing Huron, his hometown in California, in a show that was a counterblast to neo-fascistic intolerance in today's America. See catwalk Dramatically, the show inside the Salle Pleyel concert hall, opened with 35 cast members appearing in the same elongated white T-shirt prison garb worn by individuals brutally abducted and expelled to El Salvador by the Trump administration. Willy's performance was supported by the American Civil Liberties Union, which is why each T-shirt read: "The ACLU dares to create a more perfect union - beyond one person, party, or side." A scene that mirrored the infamous video of Homeland Security Secretary Kristi Noem vulgarly bragging about evicting hundreds of Venezuelans from the United States to a brutal jail without any due process. One of the most sordid pages in recent American history. 'I'm not interested in luxury as a symbol of privilege. I'm interested in luxury as a symbol of truth in one's own character. Exquisite tailoring and craftsmanship worn to elevate one's personal intent – that's power. That's fashion,' said Chavarria, after a show reflecting on the dehumanization of how immigrants are being treated in the United States. See catwalk On the runway, Willy responded with refined tailoring and classy fabrics, milled in Italy exclusively cut into voluminous shapes. For women trench-coat dresses and mannish pants suits, pencil skirts and screen goddess columns. All made in kicky colors - papaya, Bourdin blue, searing red, shocking turquoise, canary yellow. For guys, a Chilango men's silhouette, a hyper forgiving cut and extended silhouette for lots of drama. Before the show turned into a display of the third expression of his Adidas Originals x Willy Chavarria collaboration. Seen in lots of graphic logo tops, diaphanous cargo pants, and triple stripe techy gilets and jerkins. Along with a new Originals x Willy Chavarria new running model with the Megaride AG and Megaride AG XL. An admirable political statement at a moment when masked men are directed to arrest and deport anyone who might stand in the way of the Trumpian neo-fascistic government. So, even if not, perhaps, Chavarria's greatest fashion show to date, given its familiar treading over familiar ground, a powerful, and very correct, political statement. Kolor kicks ass This weekend marked the debut show of new creative director, Taro Horiuchi, for the coolly offbeat house of Kolor, and it was definitely a kick-ass first showing. See catwalk Founder Junichi Abe quit Kolor last season, in a final show inside the bunker like Communist headquarters in north Paris. Horiuchi chose a sunny garden in the storied fifth arrondissement, which also happened to be the center for deaf children. The designer's focus was on blending active sports and trail style into something cool, and by and large, he succeeded very well. Pairing plantation dandy cotton blazers with tech-y running mesh tops; or placing lightweight mountaineers gilets under floaty trenches. For women, combining a frilly ace blouse with a hiker's waistcoat, or morphing a nylon parka into a sexy sheath. All very impactful visually. In a co-ed show, guys and gals wore interchangeable garments, except for evening, when Horiuchi added acres of tulle to technical gabardine cocktails. See catwalk A statement show aided by some very savvy styling by Camille Bidault Waddington. Staged before a very cool gang of French fashionistas and funky fashionistas and backed up by an ace soundtrack including cuts like "Toxic Waste" by Diggy. Born in Tokyo, Horiuchi is a graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp, who has won the International Talent Support Diesel Award. Prior to today, Taro has led his own eponymous, while also contributing to Muji Labo. 'Time travel, chic humor, the hours, the waves,' was Horiuchi sibylline comment on his designs. Abe founded Kolor in 2004, after studying at Bunka fashion school and working for Comme des Garcons and Junya Watanabe. Today, he found a worthy successor. To sum up, this show felt like a triumph. Taro Horiuchi has arrived. Riefe: Rockin' jewelry from Tokyo on Isle St Louis A little rock'n'roll, a soupçon of attitude and the off-beat design of Japan, and you have Riefe, a cool collection of jewelry by Rie Harui. See catwalk Willowy and wily, Harui unveiled her latest collection in a cute showroom on Ile St Louis overlooking the Seine. Presented in tiny silver pans of water, where each jewel was positioned on concrete blocks. In a busy week, Harui also designed jewelry for the next menswear show of Yohji Yamamoto, which took place Thursday in the Japanese master's French HQ in the Marais. Harui has been working with Yohji since 2021, attracted to her blend of fine Japanese artisanship and kicky design. She creates bracelets in rectangular links in silver or white gold, and adds glimmering gemstones and makes pride of place go to modernist pearl necklaces. To be clear, menswear's best new jeweler in many seasons.
