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Cognac char siu? Cheese spring rolls? Samuel Lee Sum uses Paris restaurant ‘to experiment'
Cognac char siu? Cheese spring rolls? Samuel Lee Sum uses Paris restaurant ‘to experiment'

South China Morning Post

time4 days ago

  • Entertainment
  • South China Morning Post

Cognac char siu? Cheese spring rolls? Samuel Lee Sum uses Paris restaurant ‘to experiment'

After 10 years as head chef of Shang Palace, the fine-dining Chinese restaurant at the Shangri-La Paris hotel, Samuel Lee Sum felt it was time to open his own restaurant in the City of Lights. Advertisement Opened in mid-February, Sensation not only refers to the five senses, but also incorporates Lee's Chinese given name in Mandarin, sen, meaning forest. Having his name on the door motivates him to work hard to succeed, he says, adding that he likes a challenge. 'Sensation is a bistronomique (a casual fine-dining restaurant), a laid-back place where you can have food paired with wine,' Lee says. 'You don't need to wear a suit to come here and eat good Chinese food.' Sensation's Cantonese char siu marinated and basted in a cognac sauce. Photo: Sensation The menu features intriguing dishes such as Chaozhou (Chiu Chow) marinated oyster, spring rolls with Comte cheese, and char siu marinated in cognac. The 43-year-old chef says he uses traditional Chinese cooking techniques with ingredients the French are familiar with. Advertisement 'French diners know raw oysters, but they may not have tried the Chiu Chow marinated sauce with garlic, chillies, cilantro and sesame oil,' he says. 'When they eat it they can taste the sweetness [of the seafood].'

How to prepare zongzi for the Dragon Boat Festival
How to prepare zongzi for the Dragon Boat Festival

RNZ News

time7 days ago

  • General
  • RNZ News

How to prepare zongzi for the Dragon Boat Festival

Zongzi is a traditional Chinese delicacy consumed during the Dragon Boat Festival, which falls on 31 May this year. These pyramid-shaped sticky rice dumplings are filled with savoury or sweet ingredients and wrapped in either bamboo or reed leaves. Here's a simple guide to making them at home: A zongzi wrapping workshop was held at Highland Park Library on 18 May to celebrate China's Dragon Boat Festival. Photo: RNZ / Yiting Lin Examples of the finished product. Photo: RNZ / Yiting Lin Zongzi can be enjoyed warm or at room temperature.

Bring saucy, tender bourbon chicken home with this timeless technique
Bring saucy, tender bourbon chicken home with this timeless technique

Washington Post

time27-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Washington Post

Bring saucy, tender bourbon chicken home with this timeless technique

Have you ever noticed how the meat and seafood from your favorite Chinese restaurant are particularly succulent? The trick, it turns out, is a technique called velveting. 'It's very prevalent in Chinese cuisine,' said Tim Ma, the chef-owner behind Chinese American restaurant Lucky Danger. And it can be found in other Asian cuisines as well. The technique has been around for centuries. Ma recalls childhood memories of watching his mother use it at his family's restaurant but never heard the word 'velveting' until later in life.

This week in PostMag: HK's underground ballroom scene and Chinese fine dining
This week in PostMag: HK's underground ballroom scene and Chinese fine dining

South China Morning Post

time17-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • South China Morning Post

This week in PostMag: HK's underground ballroom scene and Chinese fine dining

Over the decade I lived in mainland China, one of the most exciting things was witnessing the rise of a new generation of Chinese chefs. In 2013 Beijing, contemporary fine dining meant course after course generously showered in black truffle, accompanied by thick medallions of foie gras or, should the kitchen be quite forward-thinking, perhaps there would be hints of molecular gastronomy present on the plate. It was almost definitely Western or perhaps it was Dong Zhenxiang at Da Dong – most known for his roast duck but also one of the first Chinese chefs to weave in Western culinary influence. Advertisement Chinese cooking, as delicious, fascinating and boundless as I found it, seemed frozen in time. Masterful in its technique, complexity and artistry? Yes. 'Authentic'? Yes. But where was the young energy looking to innovate, evolve and push the limits, especially in the world of high-end dining? This changed over the years – and at 'China speed', no less. By 2017 and 2018, up-and-coming talent across the country was beginning to experiment with what a new way of Chinese cooking might look like. I found this thrilling. So for me, it was exciting to read about Lin Zihan at Wild Yeast in Hangzhou, where Hei Kiu Au discovers his ever-evolving, nuanced approach to what it means to be a young Chinese chef in the fine-dining world. It's a restaurant for the bucket list. I'll tell you, the ginger brown sugar soufflé inspired by a snack from his hometown of Taizhou looks absolutely scrumptious. Exploration of identity courses through this issue. In our cover feature, Hsiuwen Liu experiences Hong Kong's underground ballroom scene. It's a subculture I knew little about – a platform for queer self-expression grown out of 1970s New York – and I'm glad to see it blossoming in its own way here. The photos of the evening capture a fearlessness and pride that are inspiring. Advertisement In some way – though a very different time, place and context – I was reminded of this same level of fearlessness in physicist Wu Chien-shiung, whose story Samuel Porteous tells. Facing all odds in mid-century America, she changed our understanding of a fundamental rule of modern physics.

In China's ‘Michelin Guide,' Tokyo leads overseas listings with 30 entries
In China's ‘Michelin Guide,' Tokyo leads overseas listings with 30 entries

Japan Times

time10-05-2025

  • Business
  • Japan Times

In China's ‘Michelin Guide,' Tokyo leads overseas listings with 30 entries

In a move to expand its global influence, China's e-commerce giant Meituan held the awards ceremony for its prestigious Black Pearl Restaurant Guide overseas for the first time. Hosted at Singapore's Marina Bay Sands Expo and Convention Centre on April 25, the awards ceremony showcased the winners of the guide's 2025 edition while using the city-state's reputation as a vibrant food hub to promote Chinese cuisine on the world stage and foster greater cross-cultural exchange. The event attracted a strong turnout of some of Asia's top chefs, such as Julien Royer of Odette (Singapore), Chan Yan Tak of Lung King Heen (Hong Kong), and Thomas and Mathias Suhring of Suhring (Bangkok). First launched in 2018 by Meituan and dubbed as China's answer to the Michelin Guide, the Black Pearl Restaurant Guide aims to recognize the best in fine dining in Asia with a Chinese perspective in mind. Guests at the award ceremony's gala dinner were treated to sumptuous feast. | BLACK PEARL RESTAURANT GUIDE The 2025 edition features 370 restaurants from China, Hong Kong, Macau, Taiwan and the dining capitals of Tokyo, Singapore and Bangkok. Other food cities like Kyoto, Osaka and Seoul remain absent from the guide, but it's only a matter of time before they show up on the list. The guide has seen a steady growth in international listings over the past five years. 'We want to provide consumers who love fine food and life with an authoritative, fair and professional guide that is tailored to the Chinese palate,' says Tang Yan, head of the Black Pearl Restaurant Guide, adding that the evaluation system is distinctly Chinese. 'In Chinese culinary culture... we pay attention to the harmonious balance of five basic flavors: sourness, sweetness, bitterness, spiciness and saltiness,' says Tang. 'The diversity of Chinese ingredients and cooking techniques fosters a highly inclusive palate, enabling appreciation for a wide range of flavors and culinary experiences.' Tang Yan, head of the Black Pearl Restaurant Guide, says the guide is tailored to Chinese palate, which is more attuned to the balance of sour, sweet, bitter, spicy and salty flavors. | BLACK PEARL RESTAURANT GUIDE Restaurants are evaluated based on their culinary excellence, service, ambience, heritage and innovation. According to Tang, the guide's reviewers are mainly experts who have 'a deep knowledge of Chinese cuisine and culture' and 'a good understanding of local taste preferences and an international culinary perspective.' They comprise seasoned diners (more than 77% of the panel) and gastronomy researchers. Anyone with direct industry connections, such as suppliers and restaurant public relations representatives, are excluded. To maintain objectivity in the evaluations, each reviewer's tenure is limited to a maximum of five years, and 30% of the judges undergo an annual rotation. To ensure a fair, transparent and authoritative rating system, the results are supported by big data from Meituan's crowd-sourced restaurant reviews, which offer insights on consumer sentiments, and also undergo third party verification by China's national notary agencies, explains Tang. 'We have also developed the first comprehensive evaluation system tailored to Chinese cuisine, a set of criteria specific to Chinese cuisine culinary styles, (and one which) addresses the absence of detailed Chinese cuisine standards in international restaurant lists or rankings,' she says. A wider taste The prize-giving ceremony in Singapore handed out a total of 114 awards to restaurants from Hong Kong, Macau, Taiwan, Tokyo, Bangkok and Singapore. (An earlier event that focused on winners from Chinese cities was held in Nanchang, China, in January this year.) Excluding Hong Kong, which had 37 restaurants in the guide, Tokyo dominated the overseas listings with 30 entries, followed by Singapore with 16 restaurants and Bangkok with nine — the trio make up 14% of the listings with 55 entries, a record for the guide. The guide uses a three-level diamond system — the highest being three diamonds — to rate the restaurants. The more diamonds a restaurant has, the more it is worth trying, says Tang. There was a sense of deja vu for some of the winners: Singapore's Les Amis and Odette — both three-Michelin-starred restaurants — earned three-diamond honors, while Bangkok's highest-scoring restaurants, the two-diamond-rated Gaa and Suhring, are also two-Michelin-starred eateries. Taipei saw five restaurants being honored, with Mume Taipei and Le Palais achieving two-diamond ratings. Logy, a two-Michelin-starred establishment, is Taipei's only Japanese establishment in the guide, earning a one-diamond distinction. The restaurant is led by chef Ryogo Tahara, a Hokkaido native who honed his skills at Tokyo's celebrated two-Michelin-starred Florilege . With a one-diamond recognition, chef Takuto Murota of Lature is a new addition to the Black Pearl Restaurant Guide 2025's Tokyo listings. | BLACK PEARL RESTAURANT GUIDE Most of the Black Pearl's winners from Tokyo are names that are already celebrated in prestigious restaurant guides like Michelin, Asia's 50 Best Restaurants and France's La Liste. Twenty establishments from Tokyo earned the Black Pearl's one-diamond recognition, including restaurants like Sushi Yoshitake, Myoujyaku, Kutan, Quintessence, Sezanne and Florilege. Nine restaurants such as Sazenka, Akasaka Sichuan Hanten and L'Effervescence snagged the two-diamond status, while Sushi Saito, which had its three Michelin stars stripped in 2019 when it stopped taking reservations and became a referral-only eatery, was Tokyo's only three-diamond winner. For Akasaka Sichuan Hanten, this marks the restaurant's third consecutive appearance in the Black Pearl guide. Owner-chef Kentaro Chen, whose Singapore outpost Shisen Hanten holds one Michelin star, says the Black Pearl's recognition 'helps us share our unique Japan-grown Sichuan cuisine with international visitors.' 'The Black Pearl award's influence extends beyond China, significantly impacting global food tourism,' says Chen. 'The greatest appeal of the guide is that it offers an Asian perspective and its evaluation system embodies the characteristics of Chinese food culture.' French restaurant Lature , located in Shibuya, is a new addition to the Tokyo cohort, with a one-diamond recognition. The eatery is known for using seasonal Japanese ingredients to create dishes that capture the essence of nature. Lature's chef-owner Takuto Murota, who first encountered the Black Pearl Restaurant Guide on Dianping, a media platform and app owned by Meituan, was the only chef from Tokyo to attend the award ceremony. 'Currently, about 40% of our guests are from overseas and out of this number, 12% are from China, so I am interested to find out about the restaurants that got selected by the guide and to learn the evaluation criteria,' says Murota. 'I hope more people will be interested in Japanese restaurants,' he adds. 'Besides (places offering) sushi, tempura and yakiniku (grilled meat), there are a lot of other Japanese restaurants featuring high-quality food waiting to be discovered.' Celebrity chef Tetsuya Wakuda of Singapore's Waku Ghin was on hand to give a description of a dish he has made for the event's guests. | BLACK PEARL RESTAURANT GUIDE Tang says the Tokyo restaurants currently listed in the guide 'pay great attention to the quality of the dishes and their ingredients.' 'The chefs are extremely serious and strive for perfection when dealing with food,' adds Tang. 'This (attitude) enables a restaurant to consistently present high-quality dishes, a craftsmanship that is increasingly valued by Chinese consumers nowadays.' She adds that Tokyo's restaurants like Lature and Shanghai crab specialist Xie Wang Fu have experienced noticeable increases in bookings and visitations after receiving their Black Pearl citations. 'This demonstrates that our guide has established a strong reputation in the overseas Chinese community,' she says. 'We plan to organize more events in various international cities to build awareness and influence among the local populations.' Celebrity chef Tetsuya Wakuda, whose Waku Ghin at Marina Bay Sands picked up a one diamond accolade, says the Black Pearl guide has been drawing Chinese clientele to his restaurants. 'Sometimes, they ask for Moutai (a brand of Chinese liquor distilled from fermented sorghum),' he says. 'Of course, we have it.'

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