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Boston Globe
3 days ago
- Boston Globe
The best of Portugal? It's located north of Lisbon.
Advertisement Catastrophe avoided! I'm happy to report that this was the most harrowing moment I faced on a trip to northern Portugal last month. Full disclosure: I fell in love with this region a dozen years ago when I visited for vacation. So when TAP Air Get Starting Point A guide through the most important stories of the morning, delivered Monday through Friday. Enter Email Sign Up At least that was the pitch I used to convince my editor that this was a good idea. I also wanted to spend more time outside of Porto to visit smaller cities I had missed on my last trip. Advertisement First things first: Porto. When I was last here, the city had yet to be scrubbed clean of its industrial leanings. I enjoyed the raw energy and edge. It's now more visitor-friendly, but that comes at a cost. I don't recall the São Bento train station having more sightseers than rail passengers, and I don't remember standing in a sinuous line and paying 10 euros ($11) to go into São Bento train station in Porto sees more tourists than train passengers annually. Christopher Muther/Globe Staff The number of tourists in Porto has yet to reach the same soaring levels as Lisbon, but it is growing significantly. According to the National Statistics Institute, the region saw 7 million visitors in 2024. That's up from 3.7 million in 2019. This is where the obligatory 'But there's a reason why more tourists are flocking to Porto' sentence should go. Usually, I wouldn't write something so trite, but I'm going to do it anyway. Porto indeed has a lot to see, a lot to hear, and, most importantly, a lot to eat and drink. I had an incredible lunch of traditional Portuguese cuisine at At Advertisement While Porto has become a major tourist draw, you can still find neighborhoods that time forgot. Christopher Muther/Globe Staff Perhaps my favorite culinary find (bear with me if you've heard this before) is alheira, a sausage that was developed during the 16th century. At the time, the Jewish community in Porto faced pressure to convert to Christianity. To practice their beliefs without fear of questioning from zealots, they created tasty sausages, made from bread, kosher meats, and olive oil. They looked like pork, and their adversaries were fooled. They're so good that they're now a mainstay in Portuguese cuisine. I found my favorites at St. Lawrence Church in Porto looks barren on the outside, but inside the church, the ceilings and columns are coated with gold, and the baroque altars are full of wooden saints. Christopher Muther/Globe Staff Speaking of cuisine, let's resume the octopus-laden cooking class in Lamego, where our story began. The tiered vineyards of the Douro Valley dominate northern Portugal. Not only is the region boozy, it's also beautiful. I had my heart set on staying in one of the Much to the chagrin of others in my class, my wine imbibing skills are superior to my cooking skills. However, I did make a killer caprese salad. I found a great hotel nearby. At Advertisement Chef João Faria teaches students how to make a beetroot salad with orange and lime vinagrette in a cooking class at Quinta Da Pacheca in Douro Valley of Portugal. Christopher Muther/Globe Staff Many people come to the Douro Valley as a day trip from Porto. I'm here to tell you that you need more than a day. Especially if the weather is cooperating and you want to take a deep breath and relax. Forget Napa; you can vineyard hop here at wineries that date back hundreds of years, and when you've had enough, you can stretch out on a boat and take a lazy cruise on the river. I booked my river cruise through a company called Pinhão, a town north of Porto, is an ideal base for exploring the Douro River Valley. Christopher Muther/Globe Staff If you're not keen on renting a car and tour buses give you hives, this entire region is well-connected by rail. I alternated between Uber drivers and trains to get around. The trains are clean, efficient, and inexpensive. Learn from my mistakes, my friends. If you come here, give yourself time to explore. The cities in northern Portugal may appear small, but they're designed for leisurely exploration. In Porto, you can hit a tidy checklist of sites, but the streets and canals of Aveiro (the Venice of Portugal), Guimarães (the birthplace of Portugal), and Braga (the Rome of Portugal) need to be taken in at a slower pace. Otherwise, you'll miss the best they have to offer. I came across Aveiro by spreading a paper map in front of me and studying the topographical features of Portugal, something I hadn't done since Columbia House was selling 13 records or tapes for $1. But there it was, a curious place with a lagoon and a series of canals that's just as unique as it sounds. In Aveiro, you can cruise the canals in Moliceiro boats (think of them as Portuguese gondolas), which were used for harvesting seaweed in the 19th century. Now, the boats offer views of the city's unique architecture. The colorful boats of Aveiro merit a story all their own. I took a 45-minute tour through a company called Advertisement São Francisco Church and Convent in Guimarães was founded in the early 15th century by King John I. It's an important example of Gothic architecture with Manueline influences. Christopher Muther/Globe Staff I also didn't spend enough time in Guimarães (sensing a theme yet?), whose city center has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site because it's brimming with historically important churches, as well as a medieval castle and a palace. It's often called 'the birthplace of Portugal' because the country's first king was born here. I thought a half-day tour would be enough to see all of Guimarães's highlights. I was wrong. I should know never to underestimate the appeal of beautiful, small European cities. As I walked through the elongated gardens in front of the elaborate, Baroque Santos Passos Church, I made a mental list of the places I'll visit upon my return. The gardens leading up to the architecturally opulent Church of Our Lady of Consolation, in Guimarães. Christopher Muther/Globe Staff My final city to explore was Braga, a municipality of approximately 200,000 residents located about 40 miles north of Porto, and also accessible by train. It's best known for the Sanctuary of Bom Jesus, a hilltop pilgrimage site that can be reached by a 145-year-old funicular. After trekking around Braga, I went back to my hotel, the sleek Advertisement Outside my hotel, people were cheering, waving soccer club scarves, and chanting while cars drove by honking wildly. It looked as if the local team had just won the World Cup. I asked one of the scarf-wavers what was going on, and he explained that Braga had tied with Benfica, a powerhouse team based in Lisbon. Tied? Wasn't this celebration a little over the top for a tie score? Cut to me sitting shoulder-to-shoulder with soccer fans at "Half Rabbit" is a giant sculpture made of trash that can be found in Gaia, Portugal. Christopher Muther/Globe Staff Christopher Muther can be reached at
Boston Globe
24-05-2025
- Boston Globe
When I want to get away from it all, these are the places I dream about
Advertisement We spend days getting push notifications about trade wars and stock market plunges. If we aren't fretting about our 401(k) plans or the latest climate disaster, then there's more bad news about another Disney live-action remake (Why, Disney? Why?). Back in the 1980s, folks could escape their daily troubles by filling a bathtub with bubbles and pleading, 'Calgon, take me away.' Get Starting Point A guide through the most important stories of the morning, delivered Monday through Friday. Enter Email Sign Up These days, we need something stronger than Calgon. Sometimes, a physical getaway that involves leaving a cellular coverage area helps, and I have ideas. Even if my suggestions don't get your travel bug chirping, think about the beauty of occasionally getting away. If it's just for an afternoon, that works, too. Advertisement West Mountain Wildlife Sanctuary, Plainfield, Mass. Sometimes hiking trails sound like a good place to escape into nature, but then you find yourself backpack-to-backpack with others who had the same plan. An easy fix is to go west, as in Western Massachusetts, where the trails tend to be less cluttered. The West Mountain Wildlife Sanctuary in Plainfield is 1,800 acres of wilderness with an easy-to-navigate 2-mile trail. , Prospect Street. 413-584-3009, westsanctuaries@ Inside the elaborate Saint-Benoît-du-Lac Abbey in Saint-Benoît-du-Lac, Quebec. Christopher Muther/Globe Staff Eastern Townships, Quebec A shed on the Westman Islands of Iceland. Westman Islands, Iceland If you're seeking solitude, there's plenty of places to find it in Iceland. Outside of Reykjavik and away from the tourist-laden Golden Circle, you can go hours, or longer, without encountering another soul. My preferred place to escape in Iceland is the AMC Maine Woods International Dark Sky Park By definition, dark sky reserves are devoid of people, otherwise light pollution would get in the way of stargazing. The AMC Maine Woods International Dark Sky Park is the first and only in New England, and on a clear night it feels as if the galaxy is at your fingertips. AMC has three lodges where you can stay to enjoy the more than 75,000 acres of largely uninhabited forest in central Maine. Just try getting a decent cell signal here. Advertisement Cherry trees in bloom at VanDusen Botanical Garden in Vancouver. Christopher Muther/Globe Staff VanDusen Botanical Garden, Vancouver You don't need to be a botanist to see why the 55-acre 5151 Oak St. 604-257-8463, I didn't think much about the herd of horses drinking from a pond in the Magallanes region of Chile until I looked down and saw this horse's perfect reflection in the water. Christopher Muther Torres del Paine National Park, Chile A view of the mountains in Torres del Paine National Park in Magallanes, Chile, as seen from the Hotel Rio Serrano. One of the best decisions I've ever made while traveling was skipping a famous guided hike in Cats loiter near an Adirondack chair, ready to sit with an available human at the Lanai Cat Sanctuary in Hawaii. Christopher Muther Lanai , Hawaii Lanai is the smallest of Maui County's populated islands, with a population of just over 3,000. It has one small airport, but most visitors arrive by ferry, and because many of its attractions can only be reached by dirt roads (there are no traffic lights), it tends to keep many Hawaii tourists away. What it does have is a 40-acre cat sanctuary where more than 700 cats live in paradise. The refuge is vital for protecting the local bird population, but it's also the happiest place on earth for visitors who can spend time with the cats. It's easy to forget about the world when you have some of the sweetest creatures on the planet vying for time to sit on your lap. Advertisement Christopher Muther can be reached at
Boston Globe
20-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Boston Globe
From oysters to pizza: A guide to New England's top food festivals this summer
RHODE ISLAND The Eating with the Ecosystem, a nonprofit, is hosting its third annual ' Advertisement Rosecliff mansion in Newport, R.I. Christopher Muther/Globe Staff Advertisement In its 20th year, the annual CONNECTICUT Here's one where you can get some kitchen tips from a star chef: The Pizza laid out at the Connecticut Pizza & Brew Fest. ROBERT CONSOLATORE Bridgeport, Conn., will host the annual Advertisement Now in its 47th year, the annual MASSACHUSETTS Head to Somerville on This one is a while away, but I recommend putting the Wellfleet oysters. Kayla Bartkowski For The Boston Globe MAINE The Maine Oyster Festival will be held in Freeport June 28 through 30 this year to celebrate the more than 150 oyster farms that dot the state's 3,500 mile- coastline. Beginning in 1965 as a local clambake, the annual Advertisement VERMONT The The 13th annual Vermont Cheesemakers Festival is taking place Aug. 10 at the historic Shelburne Farms Breeding Barn. Walk around and sample fare from local cheesemakers and artisan food makers, and then purchase some cheeses to bring home. NEW HAMPSHIRE Most of New Hampshire's biggest food festivals begin in September and last throughout the autumn season. In its 36th year, the The Duck Poutine. Jonathan Wiggs/Globe Staff MORE FOOD NEWS AROUND NEW ENGLAND Around Massachusetts: The Michelin Guide is Advertisement Around Vermont: Three books written in Vermont were nominated for James Beard Media Awards. They include the ' Around Maine: Maine's hardy lobster fishery had, seemingly, seen it all. Elsewhere: Michelin just added Thanks for reading The Food Club. ✍️ This newsletter is written and produced by ✉️ Send comments, suggestions, and story tips to 📧 Did someone forward this newsletter to you? Advertisement 📱 Delivered every Thursday. Alexa Gagosz can be reached at
Boston Globe
07-05-2025
- Boston Globe
Where to go when you need an escape
Send questions or suggestions to the Starting Point team at . If you'd like the newsletter sent to your inbox, . TODAY'S STARTING POINT I remember Jan. 6, 2021, quite vividly, but not because of the attack on the US Capitol. It sticks in my mind because I was staying in a treehouse in the wilds of New Hampshire. It was just as fantastic as it sounds. During the day I'd ski. The mountain had virtually no cell service. A few text messages managed to get through, but they made little sense. Later that night, as I shimmied out of my thermal underwear and warmed up with hot chocolate, I managed to connect to Wi-Fi and realized I had missed something historic, unprecedented, and tragic. The world had changed, and I had no idea what had occurred. Truth be told, I'm grateful I was able to sit that one out. Advertisement We spend days getting push notifications about trade wars and stock market plunges. If we aren't fretting about our 401(k) plans or the latest climate disaster, then we're reading about the death of our favorite television characters (no spoilers here!). Back in the 1980s, folks could escape their daily troubles by filling a bathtub with bubbles and pleading, 'Calgon, take me away.' Advertisement These days, we need something stronger than Calgon. Sometimes, a physical getaway that involves leaving a cellular coverage area helps, and I have ideas. Even if my suggestions don't get your travel bug chirping, think about the beauty of occasionally getting away, even if it's just for an afternoon. West Mountain Wildlife Sanctuary, Plainfield, Mass. Sometimes hiking trails sound like a good place to escape into nature, but then you find yourself backpack-to-backpack with others who had the same plan. An easy fix is to go west, as in Western Massachusetts, where the trails tend to be less cluttered. The West Mountain Wildlife Sanctuary in Plainfield is 1,800 acres of wilderness with an easy-to-navigate 2-mile trail. Eastern Townships, Quebec Westman Islands, Iceland If you're seeking solitude, there's plenty of places to find it in Iceland. Outside of Reykjavik and away from the tourist-laden Golden Circle, you can go hours, or longer, without encountering another soul. My preferred place to escape in Iceland is the AMC Maine Woods International Dark Sky Park Advertisement By definition, dark sky reserves are devoid of people, otherwise light pollution would get in the way of star gazing. The AMC Maine Woods International Dark Sky Park is the first and only in New England, and on a clear night it feels as if the galaxy is at your fingers. AMC has three lodges where you can stay to enjoy the more than 75,000 acres of largely uninhabited forest in central Maine. Just try getting a decent cell signal here. VanDusen Botanical Garden, Vancouver The Vancouver skyline and mountains, as seen from Queen Elizabeth Park. Christopher Muther/Globe Staff You don't need to be a botanist to see why the 55-acre 5151 Oak St., 604-257-8463. Torres del Paine National Park, Chile A view of the mountains in Torres del Paine National Park in Magallanes, Chile, as seen from the Hotel Rio Serrano. One of the best decisions I've ever made while travelling was skipping a famous guided hike in Read more: If you're flying domestically and haven't yet gotten a REAL ID, you Today's REAL ID deadline 🧩 5 Down: | 🌦️ 70° POINTS OF INTEREST By Ian Prasad Philbrick Michael Misa could be Boston's top target in this year's NHL Draft. Kevin Sousa/Getty Boston and Massachusetts Karen Read trial: An investigator Steward Health Care: One year after the hospital system declared bankruptcy, the state's US senators called for the Justice Department Signal issue: The state Senate's budget would give the MBTA Luck of the draw: The Bruins will pick seventh in the NHL Draft next month. Here are Trump administration US-Canada tensions: At the White House, Canadian Prime Minister Mark Carney said Canada ' Truce: The US will stop bombing Yemen's Houthi rebels after they agreed to stop attacking American ships, Trump said. The Houthis suggested they would keep targeting Israel, which bombed Yemen's main airport yesterday. ( Targeting students: Appeals court judges The t-word: 93 percent of recent S&P 500 company earnings calls Politics of art: The National Endowment for the Arts began Trump vs. Harvard: Some major Harvard donors, including those who have buildings named after them, want the school to Legal challenge: Brown, MIT, and other universities Fox in the henhouse: Vinay Prasad fiercely criticized an FDA unit that regulates vaccines and gene therapies. Now he'll run it. ( The Nation and the World Flying circus: Delays continued at Newark airport after air traffic controllers briefly lost contact with planes last week. ( India vs. Pakistan: India launched missiles into Pakistani-controlled territory, retaliating after militants killed tourists in a part of the disputed Kashmir region. Pakistan fired shells back, calling India's strikes an act of war. ( The next pope: Cardinals in Vatican City are beginning the conclave, a closed-door gathering to select Pope Francis's successor. ( Germany's new leader: Friedrich Merz, who leads a center-right party, became chancellor. ( BESIDE THE POINT ❤️ Love letters: Their relationship is over, but she hasn't moved out. Is it okay Advertisement 📱 Brave old world: More people are ditching their smartphones to spend less time on their screens. ( 🏠 House of your heart: A waterfront estate in Hyannis that Taylor Swift once owned is on the market for $14.5 million. 🚀 Blast from the past: Cosmos 482, a 53 year-old Soviet spacecraft that failed to reach Venus, is set to crash back to Earth as soon as today. ( 😱 They're baaaack: After 17 years underground, Brood XIV cicadas 🏎️ Vroom: Lego built 10 life-sized, drivable Formula 1 cars — each made from about 4 million of its toy bricks. ( 🎤 Case dismissed: Listen to a bonus episode Thanks for reading Starting Point. This newsletter was edited by ❓ Have a question for the team? Email us at ✍🏼 If someone sent you this newsletter, you can 📬 Delivered Monday through Friday. Christopher Muther can be reached at
Boston Globe
07-05-2025
- Business
- Boston Globe
A new low-cost Caribbean airline is landing in Boston this fall with $170 flights
From Santo Domingo, Bostonians can connect to the Like many low-cost carriers, Advertisement For those looking for more, passengers can choose packages with features such as extra legroom, a checked bag, and priority boarding. Christopher Muther can be reached at
