Latest news with #ChrisvanTulleken
Metro
17-05-2025
- Health
- Metro
Dr Chris van Tulleken says ultra-processed food should be taxed like cigarettes
Imagine it – you've had a long day at work. You come home, open the fridge, sigh at your lack of food. You're exhausted. You're hungry. You've got just a mere few hours before you have to go back to sleep and do it all over again. The idea of spending an hour cooking doesn't appeal – so what do you do? You head to your nearest supermarket – grab a ready meal, some cereal or perhaps some sausages or burgers. Maybe a packet of biscuits. This is fine as a one-off, but if it's a regular habit, you could be exposing yourself to a further risk of increased risk of heart attacks, strokes. high blood pressure and other illnesses. Last month, factory-produced foods were linked to thousands of early deaths in the UK, in a study counting the cost of packaged foods like ready meals and sugary cereals. It led to headlines including a Metro front page, but this study was just the latest linking highly processed foods to poor health. Experts have now told Metro that politicians should stop worrying about the 'nanny state' and focus on taxing the unhealthy and addictive ultra-processed foods instead. Dr Chris van Tulleken, who wrote the book on this with his 2023 bestseller Ultra-Processed People, told Metro: 'We know that ultra-processed food causes – not just is associated with – obesity, chronic kidney disease, inflammatory bowel disease, certain cancers, metabolic disease, cardiovascular disease, cerebrovascular disease, and anxiety and depression. 'So it would almost have to cause increased death rates. It would be very odd if it didn't.' In 2018, a 'sugar tax' on pre-packaged drinks was introduced, and the government is now considering widening it to include milk-based drinks, such as milkshakes and pre-packaged lattes. But Dr van Tulleken told Metro: 'We're negotiating around 'can we possibly add a bit of sugar tax to a frappuccino and a milkshake, in addition to a coke?' I mean, this is angels on the head of a pin. 'There is no good reason for not implementing the salt and sugar taxes proposed in the National Food Strategy.' He was referring to a government-commissioned report into the UK's food by Henry Dimbleby. Published in 2021, politicians have so far ignored its key recommendation for a 'Sugar and Salt Reformulation Tax', using additional revenue to get fresh fruit and veg to low-income families. Metro spoke to Dr van Tulleken at the launch of a free online course by the Cookery School at Little Portland Street in London, aimed at fighting 'fake food' by giving people skills to cook from scratch. Panellists told how politicians feared looking elitist by taking action, given how often they try to look relatable by eating chips, pulling a pint, or doing a shift at McDonald's. Sue Pritchard, chief executive of The Food, Farming and Countryside Commission, told the audience that 'Big Food' companies were using the same playbook historically used by tobacco and fossil fuel companies, to 'undermine the evidence and frighten politicians into inaction'. 'UPFs are foods that have undergone significant processing and modification from their original state,' explains Dr Frankie Phillips, a registered dietitian with the British Dietetic Association. 'Some definitions suggest that UPFs usually contain ingredients that aren't found in a typical kitchen e.g. artificial colours, preservatives, artificial flavours, and emulsifiers. Processing isn't all bad It's important not to villainise processed foods completely. As Dr Frankie explains: 'Processing isn't all bad, and sometimes it can even help as some nutrients are more easily available to the body when they are processed to some degree. 'For example, canned tomatoes or tomato puree has more bioavailable antioxidants than a fresh tomato, and life is simply too busy to make everything from scratch all the time.' She said the current food system is 'damaging us', and told how many were hopeful that the Dimbleby report's publication would unlock change. But media responded with 'industry talking points' such as 'nobody wants a nanny state,' 'these are just middle class concerns' and 'people just want cheap food', she said. 'We do lots of work with citizens around the country, and that's not what real people actually say at all. People really care about the quality of food they are feeding to their kids.' The UK eats more ultraprocessed food than any other country in Europe, making up more than half the food consumed by adults, and more than two thirds of the foods eaten by children. Most supermarkets are a temple to mass-produced sauces, biscuits, meat, sweets, crisps, desserts, and microwave meals, and it generally works out cheaper to buy pre-prepared than cook from scratch – meaning the odds are stacked against those trying to eat healthily. 'Traffic light' labelling of sugar, salt and fat is voluntary, but does not indicate the level of processing. Dr van Tulleken, who is also an NHS doctor, said it was 'not our fault' that change has so far been slow. He said the marketing budget of just one major food company could be 'two to three times the entire operating budget of the World Health Organisation', which was over £5 billion this year. There have been some key laws to make it through, despite opposition: 2007: Ban on junk food advertising on children's TV comes into force 2014: Introduction of Universal Infant Free School Meals in England 2018: The Soft Drinks Industry Levy (SDIL), better known as the 'sugar tax' on packaged drinks introdued 2019: Similar advertising ban on junk food across all Transport for London sites October 2025: Junk food adverts on TV will be banned before the 9pm watershed But in his opinion, the biggest reason for lack of effective action is 'conflicts of interest'. In March, the government announced the Food Strategy Advisory Board to look at how to 'restore pride in British food'. As well as the food minister Daniel Zeichner and chief medical officer Chris Whitty, its 14 members include reps from oven chip company McCain, packaged sandwich maker Greencore, Kerry Foods, Sofina Foods, and Sainsbury's. Dr Van Tulleken said: 'As long as the policy makers include the industry that will be regulated, I think nothing will happen. It's important to speak to the food industry, understand the food industry, and have a cordial relationship – but they can't write the policy.' His sister-in-law Dr Dolly Van Tulleken co-authored Nourishing Britain, a political manual on food, along with Henry Dimbleby, and also spoke on the panel last month. More Trending She found there have been almost 700 policies floated since obesity reduction targets were published 30 years ago, yet there has been an 'epic failure' to reduce food-related ill health. Looking at how things could improve, she said George Osborne's sugar tax was developed in secret, 'without industry in the room' until it was already at a late stage. Calling for politicians to 'feel the heat', she said added that 'it's important to make the positive argument that this is about people wanting a delicious, enjoyable food system.' 'Cook for Victory', named to reference a war against 'fake food', is running online for another two weeks every evening live from 6pm. Get in touch with our news team by emailing us at webnews@ For more stories like this, check our news page. MORE: Map shows spread of tropical disease Melioidosis that has killed 31 people across Australia MORE: TGI Fridays overhauls menu in comeback attempt after closing dozens of US locations MORE: Urgent recall of soups, rice and porridge mixes over 'life-threatening' risk in US
Daily Mirror
05-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Daily Mirror
I read every day — these are 10 books I've read since 2020 that I couldn't put down
Reading is such a simple and inexpensive joy but if you're anything like me you sometimes struggle to find the time. Here are the books I've read in the last five years that have really made an impression on me Reading is such a straightforward and affordable pleasure but, if you're anything like me, finding the time can be a challenge. With an array of distractions vying for our attention, from streaming services to mobile gaming and social media, books are now up against competitors we could hardly have envisaged a couple of decades ago. But there are plenty of reasons to choose a book over a screen, whether it's to learn something new, delve into a subject in detail or simply enjoy a story for the escape it offers. Moreover, research suggests that reading can actively boost your health. Studies have demonstrated that reading activates more areas of your brain, strengthening it and enhancing your ability to process information. Reading can also significantly lower your stress levels, with blood pressure and heart rate dropping after just a few minutes of reading, reports the Express. If you can truly enjoy something while subconsciously reaping its benefits, that's the ultimate win-win. With that in mind, I'd like to share my top book recommendations from the past five years. Although not all were first published within this timeframe, most are relatively recent releases — and this curated list blends fiction and non-fiction, with both genres offering unique benefits that contribute to personal growth. If you enjoy these recommendations, please don't hesitate to share your thoughts and your own favourite books in the comments. For more book recommendations, reviews, and news, consider subscribing to our free weekly newsletter, The Bookish Drop, on Substack. 1. Ultra-Processed People by Chris van Tulleken (2023) I can confidently say that this book has been a game-changer for me, and judging by the social media communities that have formed around it, thousands of others share my sentiment. In this book, NHS doctor and BBC science presenter Chris van Tulleken delves into the shocking truth about the "food" we consume today, much of which barely deserves the label. The book raises a pressing issue: "Why do we all eat stuff that isn't food... and why can't we stop?" It provides a shocking insight into the fact that a significant portion of our diet in developed Western countries - up to 60% by some accounts - consists of ultra-processed items, distinctly different from what was on our families' tables just a generation or two ago. Dr van Tulleken delves into the chemical processes and industrial components that populate our pantry shelves, paralleling this trend with the skyrocketing rates of obesity. It's an eye-opener and a jaw-dropper rolled into one. Get your copy here. 2. The Five by Hallie Rubenhold, released in 2019 Prepare to be astonished with this exceptional read. You might think you know the story of Jack the Ripper, but unless you've read this book, you'll be unaware of the deep stories of the women he killed. 'The Five' sets the record straight, thanks to the exhaustive research conducted to reconstruct the lives of these five individuals from the 19th century. It restores to them their true identities, backstories, and characters which they have long been denied. These women were more than just names tied to a notorious murderer – they were wives, mothers, or both, who loved and were loved. It's been hailed as "urgent, eloquent, angry and beautifully put together" by critics. 3. Empire of Pain by Patrick Radden Keefe, penned in 2021 This book is the result of an almost superhuman level of research. It recounts the story of oxycontin, a legally available drug that triggered an unprecedented opioid abuse epidemic in the United States, and the Sackler family, who created it and are one of America's wealthiest and most secretive families. Through their pharmaceutical company, the Sacklers amassed billions as people became devastatingly addicted to or died from oxycontin. Keefe received "several dozen letters and emails" from lawyers representing the family during his research, demonstrating that it took extraordinary bravery in addition to research. 4. In Memoriam by Alice Winn, 2023 Alice Winn's exquisite writing infuses even more emotion into this heart-wrenching novel about the love between two young men (boys, really) during World War One. She tells the story from the perspectives of both main characters and the reports printed in their school newspaper. In fact, reading an old school newspaper and discovering real tributes from pupils to their brothers and friends who were dying in horrific numbers on battlefields across the Channel inspired Winn to write the story, which she tells in vivid, haunting language. Buy it here. 5. Brooklyn and Long Island by Colm Toibin, 2009 and 2024 The pair of novels trace the journey of Eilis Lacey, who in the 1950s, leaves her Irish hometown for Brooklyn, spurred on by those around her who believe she'll find better opportunities there than in Enniscorthy. This mirrors the real-life experiences of millions who migrated from Europe to the US in the 20th century, never to see their families again. In Brooklyn, Eilis parts ways with her beloved sister and a potential love interest, as she starts afresh in the Big Apple. Fast forward two decades, the sequel sees Eilis' life in Long Island upended by her husband's actions, prompting her return to Ireland and the faces she left behind 20 years ago. Initially planned as a brief visit, Eilis finds herself torn between staying in Ireland or returning to the US as she reconnects with her old circle. Grab your copies of Brooklyn here and Long Island here. 6. How To Win The Premier League by Ian Graham, 2024 This isn't your typical football memoir. While many players and pundits have penned autobiographies, this book offers an insider's perspective from within one of the world's leading football clubs, revealing the intricate details that go into securing victory. Between 2012 and 2023, Graham served as the director of research for Liverpool Football Club, a period during which the club clinched its first league title in three decades. His team utilised extensive data to gain insights into virtually every facet of the game, leading to the recruitment of both Jurgen Klopp and Mohammed Salah. The team also harnessed data to reveal the true effectiveness of set-pieces like corners and free-kicks, and the actual value of possession and home advantage. One particularly captivating segment illustrates the multitude of factors that must align for a player's acquisition to be successful - underscoring the importance of evidence-based selection. 7. The Power of Geography by Tim Marshall, 2021 This book offers an intriguing exploration of how geography has influenced the destiny of nations, the considerations it necessitates, and how it fuels the global rivalries that shape our world, our news headlines, and consequently, our collective fate. For instance, many of us likely seldom consider the Sahel in sub-Saharan Africa. However, its unique circumstances could potentially trigger the next refugee crisis in Europe. Likewise, it's easy to assume that Australia prioritises its relationship with the USA over China - but considering the USA is twice as far away and Australia needs to consider the implications if China decides to exert more influence in the seas to its south (and Australia's north), it's not so simple. The beauty of this book lies in its ability to present complex issues in an easily digestible manner. . 8. The Secret History by Donna Tartt, 1992 Returning to fiction, The Secret History unravels the tale of a group of academically gifted students at a prestigious New England university harbouring a dreadful secret. It's another exquisitely penned piece of fiction (even if the frequent nods to Greek mythology flew right over my head). Despite being the oldest book on this list, it has garnered a fresh wave of followers courtesy of TikTok. Get your hands on it here. 9. Putin's People by Catherine Belton, 2020 Like Empire of Pain and The Five (above), an exceptional level of research has been invested into this book, which explores the rise of Vladimir Putin from his KGB days to becoming one of the most influential figures globally. His ascent includes stints as an agent in Dresden and the deputy mayor of St Petersburg. Throughout each stage, Putin and his network acquired the skills that are now evident in their modus operandi (and in today's headlines), ranging from money laundering and disinformation to blackmail and forming alliances with other infamous organisations. It's a bold piece of work. 10. The Subtle Art of Not Giving A F*** by Mark Manson, 2016 The provocative title might lead you to believe this is a guide to nihilism, but it's quite the opposite. Manson's key argument is that individuals should concentrate on life's significant aspects and not fret over trivial matters, while acknowledging that there are certain things in life we must simply endure. Like many self-help books aiming to improve our lives, there is often one fundamental point expanded into several thousand words. However, Manson does so in such a captivating manner that you can't help but continue reading. There's a tale that sticks in my mind: the real-life saga of a guitarist booted from a band during its formative years. This axeman, Dave Mustaine, bounced back by establishing a new band that shifted 20 million records worldwide. Yet, it's said that Dave was never truly content because the group he'd been ousted from evolved into Metallica, one of the most colossal bands in history. It all boils down to how you look at things.
Telegraph
28-04-2025
- Health
- Telegraph
Scale of Britain's junk food crisis laid bare
Junk food is behind almost 20,000 premature deaths in the UK each year, a study has suggested. Ultra-processed foods – such as ice cream, processed meats such as ham, mass-produced bread, breakfast cereals, ready meals, biscuits, and fizzy drinks – are being increasingly linked to bad health. The concept of ultra-processed foods (UPFs) has been popularised by figures such as Prof Tim Spector, founder of the wellness project Zoe, and Dr Chris van Tulleken, the TV doctor and author. UPFs have previously been linked to increasing rates of obesity, heart disease and cancer, and now experts believe they may be behind thousands of early deaths each year. They often contain high levels of saturated fat, salt and sugar, and typically include additives, preservatives and other ingredients not used in home cooking – such as emulsifiers and artificial colours and flavours – which are added by manufacturers. They have been the result of society's shift toward buying food that can be eaten quickly or on-the-go, like meal deals and ready meals, combined with extending shelf life of products and what experts say are the addictive characteristics of UPFs. But concerns are growing about the impact these types of food are having on our health. Stop signs on food packaging Researchers from Brazil's scientific institution, the Oswaldo Cruz Foundation, analysed the impact of UPFs on the rates of premature deaths in eight separate countries. The study, published in the American Journal of Preventative Medicine, found UPFs made up 53 per cent of people's food energy consumption in the UK. This was the second highest behind only the US at 55 per cent. Using mathematical modelling, the authors found the proportion of premature deaths attributable to UPFs ranged from 4 per cent in Colombia, where consumption is lower and regulations are stricter, up to 14 per cent of premature deaths in the UK and US. The researchers said that in 2018-19, some 17,781 premature deaths in the UK could have been linked to UPFs, according to their model. Many countries in South America require UPFs to have black octagonal stop signs on their packaging so consumers are aware, with proposals for them to be used in the UK put forward by former government food tsar and National Food Strategy author Henry Dimbleby. Eduardo Nilson, lead investigator of the study from the Oswaldo Cruz Foundation, said the impact of UPFs on health went 'beyond the individual impact' of high levels of salt, fat and sugar. He suggested this was 'because of the changes in the foods during industrial processing and the use of artificial ingredients, including colourants, artificial flavours and sweeteners, emulsifiers, and many other additives and processing aids'. 'So assessing deaths from all causes associated with UPF consumption allows an overall estimate of the effect of industrial food processing on health,' he said. Dr Nilson added that the study found 'each 10 per cent increase in the participation of UPFs in the diet increases the risk of death from all causes by 3 per cent.' The research team also looked at data from Australia, Brazil, Canada, Chile and Mexico. 'Health harms of UPFs' Scientists are not sure whether the link to poor health and early death is just because of the high content of known risk factors – salt, sugar and fat – or whether there is something additional at play when foods are 'ultra-processed'. Prof Nita Forouhi, professor of population health and nutrition at the University of Cambridge, said the study had limitations but 'nonetheless, evidence on the health harms of UPFs are accumulating and this paper does add to that body of evidence'. She said while this study was observational and could not prove a link between the two, it was 'the best we are going to get realistically', adding that 'we should not ignore such findings, especially as the current research has reported consistently similar associations in several countries which increases the degree of confidence'. Stephen Burgess, statistician at the University of Cambridge, said it was possible the actual cause was a 'related risk factor such as better physical fitness', but the replication of the trend across countries and cultures 'raises suspicion that ultra-processed foods may be more than a bystander'. Nerys Astbury, associate professor from the University of Oxford, disagreed with the study authors' call for UPFs to be added to national dietary guideline recommendations, such as the suggested limits on daily sugar and salt intake. ' Many UPF tend to be high in these nutrients, and studies to date have been unable to determine with certainty whether the effects of UPF are independent of the already established effects of diets high in foods which are energy dense and contain large amounts of fat and sugar,' she said. 'Rushing to add recommendations on UPF to these recommendations is not warranted based on this study in my opinion.'
Metro
28-04-2025
- Health
- Metro
Thousands of UK deaths could be linked to ultra-processed foods
Ultra-processed foods have been linked with tens of thousands of early deaths in the UK in a new study. If you're anything like the typical Brit, you may well be eating dozens of these foods today alone. They could include cereal and flavoured yoghurt for breakfast (even cornflakes are often UPF), sliced bread with cream cheese or ham for lunch, a ready meal for dinner, and some biscuits or crisps as a snack. But these foods could be harming our health in ways that are still not fully understood, the study published in the American Journal of Preventive Medicine says. They looked at data from eight countries around the world and found UPFs made up 53% of people's energy intake in the UK – the second highest in the study after 55% in the US. The researchers suggested that in 2018/19, some 17,781 premature deaths in the UK could have been linked to UPFs, according to their model. Premature deaths attributable to UPFs ranged from 4% of premature deaths in lower consumption settings, such as Colombia, up to 14% of premature deaths in the UK and US, according to their mathematical modelling. Authors called on governments to issue dietary recommendations aimed at cutting consumption of UPFs. A Department of Health and Social Care spokesperson told Metro: 'This government is committed to tackling poor diets and the obesity crisis to protect future generations. 'We have already taken action to end the targeting of junk food adverts to children, across TV and online and we have handed local authorities stronger powers to block applications for new takeaways near schools. 'We are also commissioning research to improve the evidence on the health impacts of ultra processed foods. Through our Plan for Change, we will shift the focus from sickness to prevention, reducing the burden of obesity on public services and the NHS.' In recent years, ultraprocessed foods, or UPFs, have been a growing concern, with Facebook groups springing up full of people trying to cut down, and brands such as M&S and Crosta Mollica responding with products free of the additives and emulsifiers that typify industrially produced foods. It follows the smash hit success of the book Ultra-Processed People by Chris van Tulleken, who went as far as to say many of these new processed substances are not even really 'food' at all. An exact definition has been hard to pin down, but one popular one is that they include ingredients you wouldn't typically find in a home kitchen, such as E-numbers, emulsifiers, thickeners, and colourings: potentially things like potassium sorbate, soy lecithin, mono and diglycerides, guar gum and aspartame. Here is a list of common ultra-processed foods to be aware of: Sweetened breakfast cereals Instant soups Pre-packaged and microwave-ready meals Fruit-flavoured yoghurts Spreads Reconstituted meat – e.g. ham, burgers, chicken nuggets and sausages Ice cream Crisps Biscuits Soft drinks and some alcoholic drinks – including whisky, gin, and rum But it's not just things thought of as 'junk foods': even things like baked beans, coconut milk, low fat spread, fruit snacks and vegan burgers can be ultra-processed. The Nova classification system sought to break it down, splitting foods into unprocessed, minimally processed, processed and ultraprocessed. The further something gets from its original ingredients, the more processed it is. We still don't know for sure. UPFs have been linked previously to poor health, including to an increased risk of obesity, heart disease, cancer and early death. It could just be that they are often high in saturated fat, salt, and sugar,so eating them means we have less room in our diets for more nutritious foods. But it could be because they tend to include additives and ingredients that are unhealthy, such as preservatives, emulsifiers and artificial colours and flavours. Some emulsifiers, for example, used to bind foods together, have been accused of disrupting the gut biome and causing inflammation. Lead investigator Eduardo Nilson, from the scientific body the Oswaldo Cruz Foundation in Brazil, said: 'UPFs affect health beyond the individual impact of high content of critical nutrients (sodium, trans fats, and sugar) because of the changes in the foods during industrial processing and the use of artificial ingredients, including colourants, artificial flavours and sweeteners, emulsifiers, and many other additives and processing aids, so assessing deaths from all causes associated with UPF consumption allows an overall estimate of the effect of industrial food processing on health.' Dr Nilson said the study found 'each 10% increase in the participation of UPFs in the diet increases the risk of death from all causes by 3%'. Probably not the companies who make UPFs, but aside from them, scientists caution that it is too early to rush to conclusions about the dangers of UPFs. Nerys Astbury, associate professor from the University of Oxford, said it is known that consuming diets higher in calories, fat and sugar can have detrimental effects on health, including premature mortality. She said: 'Many UPF tend to be high in these nutrients, and studies to date have been unable to determine with certainty whether the effects of UPF are independent of the already established effects of diets high in foods which are energy dense and contain large amounts of fat and sugar. 'The authors of the study conclude that advice to reduce UPF consumption should be included in national dietary guideline recommendations and in public policies. More Trending 'However, rushing to add recommendations on UPF to these recommendations is not warranted based on this study in my opinion.' She said the Nova system, which defines foods according to different levels of food processing, 'has many limitations, including arbitrary definitions and overly broad food categories' and added: 'More research is needed to ascertain a causal link between UPF and disease and to establish the mechanisms involved.' You'd have to balance the health benefits with the joy of a little indulgence. If you really want to be on the safe side, a boiled egg and an apple would probably be better for you. Get in touch with our news team by emailing us at webnews@ For more stories like this, check our news page. MORE: Fast food chain closing up to 200 locations to pay off $300,000,000 debt MORE: Plans to 'dim the sun' sparks conspiracy the government is 'changing the weather' MORE: Popular restaurant chain has only 85 locations left after closing hundreds
Irish Examiner
26-04-2025
- Health
- Irish Examiner
I tried to give up ultra-processed foods — here's what happened (and what the experts had to say)
I am staring at the ingredients list of a chicken wrap. It has more than 40, half of which I can't identify. Additives, emulsifiers, E numbers, and acidity regulators are all listed before I get to what I would have assumed was the main ingredient — chicken. And, as you'll know if you studied home economics in secondary school, ingredients on food labels must be listed in descending order of weight. It's one of the major shocks I endure during my seven days of attempting to eat no ultra-processed foods (UPFs). There are many. From stock cubes to tins of coconut milk, 'healthy' Nutella alternatives and packs of quick-oats, the week is full of moments where I wonder: how much of my diet is actually made up of the food I think I am buying, and not, as the man heading the growing movement shunning UPFs terms it, 'food-like substances'? Dr Chris van Tulleken has become the face of a movement decreeing ultra-processed foods. Picture: Claire Witkin That man is infectious disease physician Chris van Tulleken, whose book Ultra-Processed People: Why Do We All Eat Stuff That Isn't Food…and Why Can't We Stop? has become one of those science books that transcends the health and wellbeing space. Released in 2023, the book has since been the focus of a prime-time TV show, podcasts, and been embraced by a slew of online influencers who have taken to spreading its gospel. With just 2% of nutrition-related videos analysed on TikTok being shown to be accurate, according to recent research from Dublin City University and MyFitnessPal, it's safe to say we should all be wary of taking nutrition advice from those who lack the appropriate qualifications. That said, those advocating the avoidance of UPFs can point to a growing body of research that looks like it could support at least some of their claims. A recent study suggested those following a diet consisting wholly of UPFs are likely to consume more calories compared to those eating whole foods, which could be linked to rising obesity levels. A large review of studies published last year also drew links between UPFs and 32 health problems, including higher risk of heart disease, cancer, type 2 diabetes, and adverse mental health. Nicole Glennon discovered many of her kitchen staples were considered UPFs. Picture: Nina Val What is an ultra-processed food? The NOVA food classification system, devised by Carlos Monteiro, professor of nutrition and public health at the University of São Paulo, Brazil, is the most widely used method of identifying UPFs. It categorises foods into four categories: unprocessed, minimally processed, processed, and ultra-processed foods. The latter are defined as 'industrial formulations made entirely or mostly from substances extracted from foods (oils, fats, sugar, starch, and proteins), derived from food constituents (hydrogenated fats and modified starch), or synthesised in laboratories from food substrates or other organic sources (flavour enhancers, colours, and several food additives).' Dietitian Orla Walsh has another way of thinking about it: 'If you're making processed food, you're putting on an apron; if it's ultra-processed, you're putting on a lab coat.' We typically picture UPFs as a calorific pizza, a pack of luminous sweets, a certain brand of potato snack that promises 'once you pop, you can't stop'. But what soon becomes apparent when I start reading the food labels of products in my own cupboard and fridge is just how much of my kitchen is made up of these foods. A study published in 2018 found that almost half of the average Irish diet is made up of UPFs, but after rifling through my kitchen before my UPF-free grocery shop, I'd be surprised if that isn't an underestimation. From my humble loaf of bread to breakfast cereals, ketchup, and soy sauce, curry pastes and high-end chocolate bars, most contain a lengthy list of ingredients I don't recognise. Even the tinned tomatoes, coconut milk, and stock cubes, which contain chemical preservatives, are considered UPFs. I quickly realise meals I make from scratch: stews, curries, pasta dishes with homemade sauce, are all considered UPFs under this definition. It'll be a long week. A look at some of the food Nicole enjoyed during her UPF-free week. Picture: Nina Val A week without ultra-processed foods Grocery shopping the weekend before my challenge is one of the most time-consuming and stressful experiences I've ever had in a supermarket — and I did the household's pandemic shopping. I spend over an hour in my local Lidl and Tesco, reading the labels of everything that goes in my trolley. I stock up on fresh fruit, vegetables and meats, opting for organic varieties where available. I find UPF-free versions of some of the 'handy' products I was concerned about — such as boil-in-the-bag rice — as well as UPF-free tinned tomatoes and tomato puree. I manage to find alternative ketchup, mayonnaise, peanut butter, and stock cube products that pass the UPF-free test, but a suitable tin of coconut milk proves elusive. It's a sign of how deranged this challenge is already making me that I almost cry with relief when I realise all of Ballymaloe's pasta sauces are UPF free. Monday: I am working from home, so making everything from scratch is easy to stick to. Porridge with fruit, seeds, and a dollop of 100% peanut butter. Scrambled eggs on a fresh sourdough loaf with butter. Smoked salmon with a homemade pasta sauce made with cream and butter. The only slight annoyance today is having to trade my usual pre-workout protein bar for an oat bar from plant-based brand Deliciously Ella. It's tasty, but not as filling, and I notice the difference in my performance in the gym. Tuesday: Things start getting trickier. I am in the office today and realise the quick oats variety of porridge I have at my desk isn't UPF friendly. It only has four ingredients, but one — sulphur dioxide — means it's off limits. I am eating out with a colleague for lunch and spend an unreasonable amount of time trying to find a local eatery that lists the ingredients on their lunch plates. None do. I reckon my best option is a salad-chain, but when I reach the top of the queue, I see there's an allergen listed for every bowl — sulphur dioxide. Now starving, and conscious of my uber-patient colleague waiting to order, I accept defeat and order the bowl anyway. Dinner is a stew, sans some of the UPF ingredients I'd usually use, like Worcestershire sauce. My cravings for a sweet treat are satisfied by M&S' Dominican Republic 46% milk chocolate, which appears to be the only high-street brand offering chocolate I can eat. It's a highlight of the week. M&S' UPF-free Milk Chocolate was a saving grace during Nicole's week Wednesday: With two work events to attend, both of which involve food, I am really starting to feel the restriction. Sitting in the middle of a table of 20-plus people, my cheeks are bright red as I ask the waitress if I can check which items on the set menu are free of additives, emulsifiers and preservatives. 'Allergies?' she asks. I say no, I am just trying to avoid them, and immediately sense her internal eye roll. Sweating at this point, and with my fellow dinner guests all eavesdropping, I ask if she can check if any options are free of sulphites – these are a common allergy, at least. After a couple of minutes, the server returns and assures me all options are fine, which honestly, seems unlikely given how prevalent I now realise sulphites are... I order a salad without the dressing or accompanying focaccia, the roast chicken and skip dessert. Later that day, I attend the second event and eat nothing. I arrive home late and starving, rustling up a salad with sweet potato and halloumi. I text my friend to rearrange our lunch date for this weekend — I can't face having to eat out again. Nicole ate a lot of salads during her UPF-free week Thursday: I take a stroll to my local coffee shop for breakfast. I want the ground to swallow me whole when I ask the barista if he knows what's in the 'bliss balls' on the counter. Thankfully, I am the only one there at the time, so he's happy to dig out a big folder with all the information on what they stock, including ingredients and allergens. They turn out to be UPF free... hooray! Despite the flat white, I have a lingering headache, and I am chalking this down to the fact that I am probably consuming a lot less sugar than I usually would. It's one of the first proper sunshiny days of the year, and later, as I go for a walk with my partner, I feel a bit sorry for myself when I see everyone with their first 99s of the season. We check our local Mace to see if there's any ice cream I can have. I can't find one. A croissant from Bread 41 Bakery, Pearse St Friday: Back in the office, I've come prepared. UPF-free quick oats with porridge and fruit for breakfast, a make-shift salad bowl for lunch, and a croissant from local bakery Bread 41 after confirming the ingredients used. When I clock off for the evening, I can't face another salad, or cooking a meal from scratch after a week of it, so I head to M&S to see if I can find anything ready-made that passes the test. To my delight, I do. A steak pie, roasted potatoes, and beef gravy. I can't express how glorious it feels to just throw something in the oven that evening with minimal effort and clean up. I've managed to nab all three items for under €12 too, as all are reduced to clear at the end of the day. A Friday takeout for two in Dublin now costs almost three times that, so it's a rare win for my wallet this week too. Saturday: For breakfast, I try M&S' one-ingredient cornflakes, a new product you have to imagine has come on stream as a direct result of the rise in awareness around UPFs. I wonder how something made only of corn can taste good. It doesn't. I am on the move most of today, with no access to a kitchen to refrigerate or heat up pre-prepared foods. For lunch, I go to one of Dall'Italia's pasta bars, where the chef prepares the dish right in front of you with ingredients of your choosing. A traditional carbonara seems like a safe and delicious choice. Later that day, I bring my own UPF-free flatbreads, crisps, and hummus to a pal's wine and cheese night. Technically, I should not have had a few glasses of wine, given it contains sulphites. However, they are naturally occurring sulphites, so I convince myself they can't count as ultra-processed. It's been a long week. Nicole managed to find a UPF-free lunch at Heuston Station Sunday: I am on the move again and lunch at Heuston Station proves challenging. After examining ingredients in a range of pre-packaged foods, I am starting to think fresh chips from Supermacs might be my best option. I eventually find a pesto pasta I can eat. Dinner that night is out of my hands again, as we are in a restaurant for a birthday. After my dressing-less salad and what I feel is the relatively safe choice of fish and chips (at this stage, I am not asking what's in the batter) I am feeling very deserving of breaking out and indulging in a dessert. I order the most luscious chocolate dessert to celebrate the end of my UPF week. When it arrives, with a glistening ganache top and dark, rich mousse, I am thrilled, but about an hour after eating it, I feel rotten. The rest of the night, I am conscious of my stomach gurgling away as I rub its distended, bloated surface. It's probably just the high sugar content after a week of nothing but some good quality chocolate, but it makes me question whether, now that I'm free of my UPF challenge, I really should return to my previous way of eating... Should we cut out ultraprocessed foods? Here's what the experts say 'For a lot of people, UPFs make up the bulk of their diet,' dietitian Orla Walsh says. 'One reason for this is UPFs tend to taste great, so it's understandable why people would want to eat them, but the other thing is, cooking skills have reduced. It's commonplace that someone would come into my clinic and not know how to boil an egg or make an omelette.' She notes that UPFs, particularly those that are fortified with vitamins and minerals, are in some cases helping to 'fill nutrient gaps' in many Irish people's diets. 'Highlighting UPFs can be helpful,' she says, but feels the conversation, particularly in online spaces, 'is too black and white'. Orla Walsh: 'If a name sounds chemical, it might still be safe — and not only safe, but beneficial for you' 'Just because you can't pronounce something or you don't know what it is, doesn't mean it's bad. If a name sounds chemical, it might still be safe — and not only safe, but beneficial for you.' For dietitian Evan Lynch, the Nova UPF classification is flawed because it doesn't take into account the potential benefit or nutritional value of different foods. 'A protein yoghurt and a frozen pizza are both ultra-processed foods,' he points out. While some research suggests UPFs might be linked to overconsumption, his own experience working with clients is that some UPFs can play a role in managing hunger. 'If you're on a weight loss journey, and struggling with satiety, protein bars and yoghurts can really help with satiety, which is associated with better weight loss outcomes.' 'There's no compelling research or evidence that I can see that including foods like this in a balanced manner will raise your likelihood of having a disease,' Lynch says. For every person, the decision to use a UPF should boil down to, what's your personal situation, what's your food environment, what are your skills, how much time do you have, and does the UPF either add to the nutrient value or the nutritional value of your diet, or subtract from it? Even nutritionist Rob Hobson, the author of two books, Unprocess Your Life and Unprocess Your Family Life, recommends a balanced approach. 'The negative impact UPFs have on health is often due to a combination of factors, including their nutrient-poor composition, additives, altered food structure, and the broader dietary context in which they are consumed,' he says. For Hobson, it's not about demonising a whole slew of foods, but about helping consumers understand 'more about our food system', including that modern day ultra-processing may play a role in why many of us struggle to eat within our recommended calorie allowances. That said, Hobson is aware that the convenience of UPFs is something that can't be easily replaced. The cost of buying whole, organic foods, also can't be understated. Rob Hobson takes a balanced approach to reducing UPFs in our diet. Picture: Ola Smit 'People need to do the best they can with the time and the money that they've got. If you can't afford to buy sourdough, or your kids don't like it, and you have to buy white sliced bread, it's not the end of the world. 'You're not poisoning your kids by giving them some UPF foods,' he stresses. How worried the average person or parent should be about UPFs largely depends on how reliant we are on them throughout our diet, he says. 'You're not going to sacrifice your health dramatically if you're eating some ultra-processed food,' he says. 'We have to be realistic,' Hobson says. 'I get attacked a lot by people who say 'don't eat anything UPF, the food industry is killing you'. It's a very nuanced topic. It's not that simple for most people.' Nicole Glennon says her experience has changed her grocery shop — but she won't be changing her diet massively. Picture: Nina Val My final takeaway In the days after I finish my week of eating no UPFs, and sharing parts of my journey on my Instagram page, I keep getting asked the same question: 'Will you keep it up?' I will continue to read food labels and be more aware of what goes in my shopping trolley. Where possible, I'll buy foods that don't contain additives or emulsifiers. At best, they aren't adding much to my diet, at worst, they may be linked to negative health outcomes — I'd rather avoid them. Aside from that, I don't plan on changing my diet too much. UPFs are so ingrained in modern-day life, avoiding them is not possible without significant lifestyle changes, some of which have their own consequences. For example, I went to the gym less during my challenge because I was spending more evenings cooking food and prepping tomorrow's lunch. My grocery bill skyrocketed as I had to replace so many of my fridge and cupboard staples. I developed anxiety around food and eating out. I took myself out of social situations because I didn't want to inconvenience friends or service staff. Reflecting on the week, something Orla Walsh said really resonates. 'It might be mad as a dietitian to say this, but I don't want someone's number one priority to be nutrition. That's not healthy.' So, I am off to get that 99 — and I won't feel bad about it.
