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‘This is what food should be in 2025': William Sitwell reviews Josephine Marylebone, London
‘This is what food should be in 2025': William Sitwell reviews Josephine Marylebone, London

Telegraph

time26-06-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Telegraph

‘This is what food should be in 2025': William Sitwell reviews Josephine Marylebone, London

I feel I've been willing Claude Bosi on to this moment. The French chef was born in Lyon (a town so culinarily accomplished that it lends its name to a salad and is famous for dishes such as coq au vin, andouillette, quenelle and tête de veau). Then over he popped to England and, in the ensuing decades, has dished up food from Ludlow to London, collected Michelin stars and purveyed a type of cuisine that marries complex gastronomic technique with classic French ingredients. Hence dishes at Hibiscus (which opened in Shropshire then moved to the capital, now sadly closed) such as chicken with onion fondue and licorice, or mackerel tartare with strawberries and celery. Fabulous, for sure, but I've been itching for him to do something properly, traditionally, unequivocally French. This he began to do when he took over Bibendum in South Kensington, although he couldn't help but segue into stuff like peas with coconut, chocolate and mint. And then there was one of his other places, Brooklands, where a complex dinner for two costs around half a grand… But last year he must have felt it was time to behave like a proper Frenchman. So he opened Joséphine in Chelsea. And, lord, was it (and still is) good. A French bistro, awning at the entrance, tablecloths and rabbit and veal. Now, ever generous, Bosi is spreading the love and has opened a branch of Joséphine in Marylebone. And while it's not quite as gloriously decorated as the mothership it's a grand job; no doubt, eyeing up a nest egg alongside his stable of independent restaurants, he'll fling out some more then flog them to a Qatari. You must hope he does a Joséphine near you. Then you can dine, as we did, gloriously guided by great waiting staff, on fish soup served at the table from a large china tureen with its jolly chums, the croutons, rouille and shaved Gruyère. As decent a fish soup as you'd get at Henry Harris's Racine and with baguettes that are miraculously as fine as fresh ones in Paris, sounding as good to break as they are to taste. We ate half a dozen snails, for which I yearned a bigger punch of garlic, before sharing a shoulder of lamb which did deliver garlic along with flageolet beans – such perfect bedfellows they seem both as natural and wondrous as the juxtaposition of sun and earth. The lamb glistened, dark skin charred from the oven, with pink flesh falling off the bones. It was a clarion call: put down your tweezers, chefs, this is what food is, or should be, in 2025. We had some greenery of steamed spinach. And then, turning the dial up to 11, shared a chocolate mousse which was rich and fluffy and fun. Every mouthful of lunch at Joséphine confirmed my long-held disparagement of tasting menus. And that's before the fun of the wine offer: the classic system of 'au metre'. They bring out the house white and red and, at the end, get a ruler and figure out the bill. Sure, it's more economical to buy by the bottle, but this feels more adventurous, and more French. With Joséphine 2, Claude Bosi (in partnership with his wife Lucy), stands at the pinnacle of his career, serving food that's posh, fancy and bank-plundering in one direction, and in the other, hearty, gorgeous, life-enhancing, un-bastardised, fully-fledged, bold and authentic. Order carefully, do a little sharing, don't go mad on the wine and you'll find great value, too. As Napoleon Bonaparte pointedly did not say, 'Tonight, Joséphine.'

‘Totally overrated' restaurant crowned the best in the UK — as top 100 revealed
‘Totally overrated' restaurant crowned the best in the UK — as top 100 revealed

Metro

time10-06-2025

  • Business
  • Metro

‘Totally overrated' restaurant crowned the best in the UK — as top 100 revealed

Here's a look at the full list of restaurants as named in the National Restaurant Awards 2025: Ritz, London 2. Moor Hall, Aughton 3. The Ledbury, London 4. Trinity, London 5. Bouchon Racine, London 6. Oma, London 7. AngloThai, London 8. Osip, Bruton, Somerset 9. Ynyshir, Eglwys Fach, Ceredigion 10. Dorian, London 11. Mountain, London 12. The Devonshire, London 13. Kiln, London 14. Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, London 15. Woven by Adam Smith, Sunningdale, Berkshire 16. Ikoyi, London 17. Lyla, Edinburgh 18. A Wong, London 19. Da Terra, London 20. Brooklands by Claude Bosi, London 21. Lyle's London (closed since May) 22. Kitchen Table, London 23. Josephine Bouchon, London 24. Endo at the Rotunda, London 25. Paul Ainsworth at No.6, Padstow, Cornwall 26. Restaurant Pine, east Wallhouses, Northumberland 27. Canteen, London 28. The Unruly Pig, Bromeswell, Suffolk 29. Sabor, London 30. Row on 5, London 31. Restaurant Sat Bains, Nottingham 32. Bibi, Lodon 33. Kolae, London 34. The Sportsman, Seasalter, Kent 35. L'Enclume, Cartmel, Cumbria 36. Higher Ground, Mancester 37. Camille, London 38. Core by Clare Smyth, London 39. Claude Bosi at Bibendum, London 40. Chishuru, London 41. The Glenturret Lalique, Crieff, Perth and Kinross 42. Frog by Adam Handling, London 43. JÖRO, Wharncliffe Side, South Yorkshire 44. Grace & Savour, Hampton in Arden, Solihull 45. Updown Farmhouse, Deal, Kent 46. Dongnae, Bristol 47. Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons, Great Milton, Oxfordshire 48. Opheem, Birmingham 49. Restaurante Interlude, Horsham, West Sussex 50. Kol, London 51. Agora, London 52. Akoko, London 53. Chez Bruce, London 54. Brat, London 55. The Forest Side, Grasmere, Cumbria 56. Gorse, Cardiff 57. Humble Chicken, London 58. Cornus, London 59. Morchella, London 60. Skof, Manchester 61. Sollip, London 62. The Cedar Tree by Hrishikesh Desai, Brampton, Cumbria 63. Starling, Esher, Surrey 64. Plates, London 65. Wilsons, Bristol 66. The Kinneuchar Inn, Kilconquhar, Fife 67. Solstice, Newcastle 68. Annwn, Narberth, Pembrokeshire 69. The Clove Club, London 70. Wildflowers, London 71. The French House, London 72. Mýse, Hovingham, north Yorkshire 73. Restaurant Hjem, Hexham, Northumberland 74. Sola, London 75. The Angel at Hetton, Hetton, north Yorkshire 76. The Muddlers Club, Belfast 77. Heft, Grange-over-Sands, Cumbria 78. Inver, Cairndow, Argyll and Bute 79. The Little Chartroom, Edinburgh 80. The Fordwich Arms, Fordwich, Kent 81. The Black Swan at Oldstead, Oldstead, north Yorkshire 82. Upstairs by Tom Shepherd, Lichfield, Staffordshire 83. The Grill by Tom Booton, London 84. Hide, London 85. The Parkers Arms, Newton-In-Bowland, Lancashire 86. Solo, Omskirk, Lancashire 87. Fallow, London 88. Forge at Middleton Lodge, Richmond, north Yorkshire 89. Lita, London 90. The Quality Chophouse, London 91. Planque, London 92. Gymkhana, London 93. Lisboeta, London 94. Crocadon, Saltash, Cornwall 95. Luca, London 96. The Seahorse, Dartmouth, Devon 97. The Palmerston, Edinburgh 98. Trivet, London 99. St. John, London 100. Maison Francois, London

What to do in London this weekend
What to do in London this weekend

Times

time24-04-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Times

What to do in London this weekend

The weather remains somewhere between passable and pleasing — and that means London is coming alive for summer. The city's historic gardens are springing to life with seasonal tulips, plus several film and music festivals are returning to the capital this weekend. For something more intimate, there are new restaurant openings and yoga workshops taking place from north to south, for every type of city dweller. After the roaring success of Joséphine Bouchon in Chelsea (Giles Coren hailed it a 'seriously wonderful' restaurant), the Lyons-born chef Claude Bosi and his wife, Lucy, are bringing their French neighbourhood bistro concept to well-heeled Marylebone. At this tightly packed, buzzy bouchon, you can feast on a set menu of French classics, from pork rillettes or leek

5 classic seafood recipes from Claude Bosi's new bistro
5 classic seafood recipes from Claude Bosi's new bistro

Times

time22-04-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Times

5 classic seafood recipes from Claude Bosi's new bistro

Claude Bosi is known for his Michelin-starred cooking at Bibendum and Brooklands at the Peninsula, but it is his love of the more rustic food he knew as a child in France that informs his cooking. 'The question we ask at all our restaurants is, 'Is it delicious?' ' the 52-year-old chef says. It's an approach exemplified by Josephine bistro in Fulham, which he launched last year with his wife, Lucy, where gratin dauphinois, onion soup and cheese soufflé are never off the menu. 'There's something deeply satisfying in watching people enjoying a simple dish such as steak au poivre, and we've sold nearly 10,000 soufflés since we opened,' Bosi says. Being born in Lyons, a city synonymous with rich, meaty food, it was obvious

Hilton turns 100 – and its Park Corner Brasserie still knows how to charm
Hilton turns 100 – and its Park Corner Brasserie still knows how to charm

The Independent

time04-04-2025

  • Entertainment
  • The Independent

Hilton turns 100 – and its Park Corner Brasserie still knows how to charm

It's 4.30pm and I'm still waiting to check into my room at the Hilton Park Lane – 90 minutes past the official 3pm check-in time. I've exhausted the chilli crackers, nuts, juice and coffee in the lounge, and am beginning to feel the first flickers of grumpiness. Surely a hotel of this stature can get a room ready on time? Eventually, someone comes to fetch us. I'm half-convinced they've forgotten we exist, but no – far from it. We're whisked up to the 27th floor and steered down a corridor that, I quickly realise, leads to the Presidential Suite. Assuming we'd be in a regular room, I try (and fail) to hide my delight when we're welcomed into what can only be described as a sprawling apartment in the sky. It's the sort of suite that's both jaw-dropping and slightly surreal – part diplomatic residence, part influencer backdrop. There's a long conference table for all your pressing 'presidential' affairs, a telescope and a skyline view of London that honestly makes your phone camera feel inadequate. The bed is vast, the carpet plush, the palette all golds, greys and marble. Very tasteful, albeit a little too Molly-Mae for me. A TV that slides out from behind a painting is fun in theory, but less so when it doesn't offer Netflix, films or internet access. Still, it's hard to complain when you've been upgraded to the top floor. Before dinner, it's cocktails at Revery bar, newly refurbished and dressed in low lighting, red velvet and more marble and gold. For Valentine's, they've collaborated with luxury perfume house Kilian on a themed cocktail menu. It's a bold concept: love potions inspired by fragrance, with ingredients like tonka bean syrup and liquid cream. Some drinks feel more like an olfactory experiment than something to sip – my 'Rolling in Love' is a sickly blend of gin, almond milk, amaretto sour and Saint-Germain liqueur that leaves me wondering if I've actually just drunk perfume. Still, a pisco sour-inspired number and a very clean martini redeem things. Revery's regular cocktail offering looks promising; it's just a short – and slightly tipsy – skip to the Brasserie. I'm surprised by the value of the menu: three courses form a set selection for just £26 – only £9 more than one of the cocktails I've just drunk. The room, also refurbished in late 2023, gleams with lime-green accents, subtle dividers offering privacy and yes, more gold and marble. It's busy but never noisy, and the staff are attentive without fuss. Hotel restaurants, long dismissed as last resorts for tired travellers, are slowly reclaiming their place on London's dining map. Across the city, some are now genuine destinations – from Claude Bosi's three- Michelin -starred sky-high dining at Brooklands in the Peninsula, to Alain Ducasse 's long-standing three-star stint at The Dorchester, just up the road. Park Corner Brasserie might not reach quite those heights, but its strong execution and accessible pricing place it comfortably in the 'don't skip it' category – especially for guests looking to stay in. To start, I have beef carpaccio with tapenade, capers and pickled onions – silky and savoury, lifted by tiny croutons that bring just enough crunch. It wouldn't usually be my first pick, but the short menu nudged me into new territory and I'm glad it did. My guest's vegan soup of the day is pleasant if not particularly photogenic. For mains, it's fish and chips and a duck leg. The former is excellent: crisp, airy batter; piping-hot, salty chips; and a tangy tartare that cuts through everything beautifully. It's a Hilton-ified version of the classic – neat and grease-free. The duck if cooked to falling-apart softness, but it's the glossy sauce and whipped buttery mash that steal the show. We finish with a lemon tart to share, served with sloe gin compote and violet sorbet. This tart is definitely on the tart side, which works for me as a lover of all things zing but could be on the edge for some. It's clear the kitchen knows what it's doing. The Brasserie is not claiming to be a restaurant that shakes things up, but one that executes calssics well – at a good price, too. There's a certain timelessness to the Hilton brand. A century after the first hotel opened, it's clear this one still has tricks up its sleeve. Yes, there were stumbles – the delayed check-in, the cocktail that smelled more expensive than it tasted – but they were swiftly, and generously, balanced out. With polished service, thoughtful details and a room that made my jaw drop, the Hilton Park Lane proves it still knows how to do old-school glamour – with just enough of the new. Park Corner Brasserie opening hours: Breakfast 6.30am-10.30am; all-day dining 12pm-10pm

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