08-08-2025
Coke Lane Pizza at The Circular takeaway review: Don't tell the Neapolitans, but even the pineapple works
What's on offer?
Dave Holmes founded Coke Lane Pizza in 2017 after leaving his career path in forensic science. While studying for a master's in forensic science at King's College
London
, he became fixated on Neapolitan-style pizza after eating at Franco Manca in Brixton. Returning to
Ireland
, he saved €8,000, bought a van, oven and mixer, and launched Coke Lane as a pop-up at Frank Ryan's in Smithfield,
Dublin 7
.
In 2019, following a successful run at Lucky's Pub on Meath Street, Coke Lane moved into The Circular in Rialto, Dublin 8. It now operates from three locations: Lucky's, The Circular, and
Priory Market in Tallaght
.
Coke Lane specialises in Neapolitan-style pizza with 48-72-hour-fermented high-hydration dough. The dough is made with a blend of Caputo flour and UK-based Wildfarmed flour, wood-fired at 450–500 degrees. All pizzas use crushed Italian plum tomatoes and toppings include locally sourced ingredients such as free-range chicken from Manor Farm. For the ham hock, they buy free-range hams from Niall O'Gorman Meats, cook them with botanicals, and pull the meat apart before finishing in honey and mustard.
What did we order?
Margherita, Ryan's, Locard and Magnum Pi. With Coke Lane known for toppings that might give Italians palpitations, I chose a mix and used the Margherita to benchmark the base and technique.
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How was the service?
Order at the counter inside The Circular, take a seat and wait for the buzzer.
Was the food nice?
The Margherita was benchmark. It had a good balance between tomato, cheese and basil, and the crust was blistered and elastic, showing that they know how to handle dough.
The Ryan's, a Margherita with roast chicken thighs, smoked bacon, rocket, Caesar drizzle and Parmesan, was extremely good. It's a combination you wouldn't expect to work, but the Caesar dressing pulls it all together, and it ends up the favourite.
Coke Lane Pizza
The Locard, a Margherita with goat's cheese, butternut squash, rocket and Irish honey, is more muted than expected. The goat's cheese, which should add depth, is too mild to leave an impression. A stronger goat's cheese would work better.
The Magnum Pi, a pizza I would generally never order, is a Margherita with wood-fired ham hock and Teeling Whiskey flambéed pineapple pieces. It's a restrained take on ham and pineapple. The flambéed pineapple avoids the tinned-sweet cliche, while the ham hock is shredded and delicious. You can't taste the whiskey, but there's balance between sweet and savoury.
Coke Lane Pizza
What about the packaging?
Mostly cardboard packaging which is compostable.
What did it cost?
€54.20 for dinner for four people: Margherita, €12.70; Ryan's, €13.90; Locard, €13.70; and Magnum Pi, €13.90.
Where does it deliver?
Eat-in, takeaway and delivery Thursday-Sunday within 2km. Open Friday-Saturday, 4pm-10.30pm, Sunday-Thursday, 4pm-10pm.
Would I order it again?
Yes, this is very good pizza and the creative approach works.
