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Boston Globe
15-04-2025
- General
- Boston Globe
Make the most of leftover bread, veggies, and other fridge staples
Frittata With Toasted Bread, Cheese, and Caramelized Onions Makes 4 to 6 servings This recipe takes a handful of basic ingredients and turns them into a rich, satisfying meal for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Each element plays an essential role. Crusty bread toasted in butter and olive oil gives the frittata substance and texture; onions cooked until sweet and caramelized add depth; cheese brings umami and gooeyness; and the eggs provide richness and tie everything together. Get Starting Point A guide through the most important stories of the morning, delivered Monday through Friday. Enter Email Sign Up Cooking starts on the stove top but finishes at 425 degrees, so you will need a 10-inch nonstick skillet that's oven-safe. Serve a crisp green salad alongside as a counterpoint to the frittata's richness. 10 large eggs Kosher salt and ground black pepper 4 ounces cheddar, Gouda, or Gruyère cheese, shredded (1 cup), divided 3 tablespoons salted butter, cut into 1-tablespoon pieces, divided Advertisement 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided 3 ounces rustic bread, cut into 1-inch cubes (about 3 cups) 2 medium yellow onions, finely chopped Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or fresh chives, to serve Heat the oven to 425 degrees with a rack in the middle position. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs with ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper, then stir in two-thirds of the cheese; set aside. In a 10-inch nonstick oven-safe skillet set over medium heat, warm 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon oil until the butter melts. Add the bread and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl; set aside. In the same skillet set over medium, warm the remaining 1 tablespoon oil until shimmering. Add the onions and ¼ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Cover and cook, stirring often and adjusting the heat as needed to prevent scorching, until the onions are lightly browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer to the bowl with the bread and wipe out the skillet. In the same skillet again set over medium, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Add the egg mixture, then quickly add the bread and onions; stir just to combine the ingredients and distribute them in an even layer. Cook, without stirring, for 5 minutes; the edges should be set. Run a silicone spatula around the edges to ensure the eggs are not sticking. Sprinkle evenly with the remaining cheese and place the skillet in the oven. Bake until the frittata is set on the surface and the cheese is lightly browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove the skillet from the oven (the handle will be hot). Run the spatula around the edges of the frittata and underneath it to loosen, then carefully slide onto a cutting board. Let rest for at least 10 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature, sprinkled with parsley and cut into wedges. Advertisement Turkish Red Lentil Soup Connie Miller Turkish Red Lentil Soup Makes 4 servings Kırmızı mercİmek çorbası is a traditional Turkish soup made with red lentils, which soften and break down during cooking, creating a rustic texture that's creamy but not starchy or heavy. Some versions include vegetables such as potatoes, carrots, or fresh tomatoes, but ours lets the lentils take the lead. Aleppo pepper brings gentle heat to the dish. If you can't find it, substitute with an additional teaspoon of paprika and ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes. This dish is delicious as is, but also provides a perfect base for a bit of experimentation. Have leeks you need to use? Add one in, instead of the onion, for a silkier texture. Chard or kale left over in the fridge? Either makes for a hearty addition. Swap out coarse bulgur for the rice to add a nuttier flavor, add a carrot for sweetness, or amp up the heat with a Fresno or jalapeño. Just be sure to keep a grain, whether it be rice or bulgur, to help thicken the soup. To make this recipe vegan, substitute olive oil for the butter. 3 tablespoons salted butter 1 medium yellow onion cut into ½-inch dice (about 1 cup) 1 medium garlic clove, finely grated 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 tablespoon sweet paprika ½ teaspoon ground cumin 1 cup red lentils 2 tablespoons long-grain white rice Kosher salt 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons Aleppo pepper (see headnote) Chopped fresh mint, to serve (optional) Lemon wedges, to serve In a large saucepan set over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the tomato paste, paprika, and cumin, then cook for about 1 minute. Advertisement Add the lentils, rice, 5 cups water, and 1 teaspoon salt. Stir to combine, then bring the soup to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to maintain a lively simmer, then cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the lentils and rice are tender and broken down, about 30 minutes. Season to taste. Meanwhile, in a small skillet set over medium heat, warm the oil, swirling to coat the pan. Add the Aleppo pepper and cook until a few bubbles appear and the oil is bright red. Remove from heat and set aside. To serve, ladle the soup into bowls and drizzle the Aleppo pepper oil over each serving. Garnish with mint, if using, and lemon wedges on the side. Chilaquiles Rojos Connie Miller Chilaquiles Rojos Makes 4 servings A beloved Mexican breakfast dish that's equally great for lunch or dinner, chilaquiles feature tortilla chips that are lightly cooked in a red or green sauce and topped with melted cheese. It was created as a way to use up leftover tortillas and other ingredients, though the dish works equally well with store-bought chips, as in this recipe. If you like, to round out the meal, serve the chilaquiles with scrambled or fried eggs. 1 medium white, yellow, or red onion, quartered 2 tablespoons grape-seed or other neutral oil, divided 3 medium garlic cloves, peeled 14½-ounce can fire-roasted or regular diced tomatoes 1 chipotle chili in adobo, plus 1 teaspoon adobo sauce ½ teaspoon ground cumin or dried oregano, or both Advertisement 6 cups tortilla chips Kosher salt and ground black pepper 4 ounces cheddar, pepper Jack, or cotija cheese, shredded (1 cup) ½ cup lightly packed fresh cilantro leaves Optional ingredients, for garnish: Diced avocado, sour cream, or Mexican crema; lime wedges; pickled jalapeños; hot sauce, or a combination Finely chop 1 onion quarter; set aside for garnish. In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat, warm 1 tablespoon of the oil until barely smoking. Add the remaining onion quarters and the garlic and cook, turning occasionally with tongs, until charred all over, 6 to 9 minutes. If the garlic is done before the onion, remove from the skillet. Transfer the onion and garlic to a blender; reserve the skillet. To the blender, add the tomatoes with juices, the chipotle and adobo sauce, and the cumin, then puree until smooth, about 1 minute. In the same skillet set over medium, warm the remaining 1 tablespoon oil until shimmering. Carefully add the puree (it will splatter) and cook, uncovered and stirring often, until slightly darkened and thickened, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in 1 cup water and bring to a simmer. Add the tortilla chips and toss to coat. Off heat, taste and season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with the cheese and stir until it begins to melt, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle with the reserved chopped onion and the cilantro and serve directly from the skillet, garnished with whatever combination of toppings you prefer. Christopher Kimball is the founder of Milk Street, home to a magazine, school, and radio and television shows. Globe readers get 12 weeks of complete digital access, plus two issues of Milk Street print magazine, for just $1. Go to Send comments to
Boston Globe
25-03-2025
- General
- Boston Globe
Cilantro, mint, and parsley star in herb-forward dishes for spring
During our travels in Athens and Sicily, we discovered similar baked cheese dishes. In Greece, it was a slab of briny, broiled feta eaten with bread. In Italy, it was rounds of ricotta that had been doused with spicy-peppery seasonings, then baked until tender and lightly browned. Back home, we found that neither cheese baked up well on its own — a result of lesser-quality cheeses than what we'd had overseas. But mixed together, a creamy, mild ricotta mitigated the graininess that resulted from baking some so-so brands of feta. Get Starting Point A guide through the most important stories of the morning, delivered Monday through Friday. Enter Email Sign Up For best results, look for blocks of feta packed in brine and avoid anything pre-crumbled. Advertisement 15- to 16-ounce container whole-milk ricotta cheese 8 ounces feta cheese, crumbled, divided 4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint, divided 3 teaspoons Aleppo pepper, divided 1 teaspoon dried oregano Kosher salt and ground black pepper 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided Pita chips or warm pita bread, for serving Heat the broiler with a rack about 4 inches from the element. In a medium bowl, stir together the ricotta, half the feta, 1 tablespoon mint, 2 teaspoons Aleppo pepper, the oregano, 1 teaspoon salt, and ¾ teaspoon black pepper. Stir in 3 tablespoons oil. In a broiler-safe 10-inch skillet, combine the remaining 2 tablespoons oil with the remaining 1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper, then swirl to coat the bottom of the pan. Scrape the cheese mixture into the skillet, then spread it out, stopping about ½ inch from the sides of the pan and leaving it slightly mounded in the center; the oil will pool around the cheese. Sprinkle the remaining feta evenly over the top. Advertisement Place the skillet in the oven and broil until the feta on top begins to brown and the oil at the edges begins to bubble, 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool for 10 minutes. Sprinkle with the remaining 3 tablespoons mint and serve warm, with pita chips or bread alongside. Basque-Style Clams and Fish in Parsley-Garlic Sauce Connie Miller Basque-Style Clams and Fish in Parsley-Garlic Sauce Makes 4 servings Merluza en salsa verde con almejas, or hake in green sauce with clams, is a classic dish from the Basque Country in northern Spain. Fish fillets are gently simmered in a parsley, garlic, and olive oil sauce until flaky, then finished with clams cooked in their shells. At the seaside restaurant Txoko, we tasted an especially delicious version in which the briny notes of the fish and clams were in perfect balance with the fresh flavors and luxe character of the sauce. Txoko takes a nontraditional, multistep approach to preparing the dish: the fish is parcooked on the grill and the sauce is made by stirring a fragrant pesto-like blend of parsley, garlic, almonds, olive oil, and Idiazabal cheese into a base of flour-thickened, oil-and-garlic-enriched fish stock. We adapted their formula and devised a method that requires only a food processor and a skillet but yields delicious results in about an hour. If you cannot find Idiazabal cheese, a Basque sheep's-milk cheese with a subtle smokiness, Manchego is a good substitute. 1 ounce Idiazabal or Manchego cheese (without rind), cut into rough 1-inch chunks ¼ cup sliced almonds, toasted Kosher salt 5 cups lightly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves and tender stems Advertisement ¾ cup extra virgin olive oil, divided Four 6-ounce firm white fish fillets (about 1-inch thick), such as hake, cod, or grouper 5 medium garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 cubanelle pepper or jalapeño chili, stemmed, halved length wise, seeded, and thinly sliced crosswise 1 cup dry white wine 2 pounds hardshell clams (about 1½ inches in diameter), such as Manila or littleneck 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour In a food processor, combine the cheese, almonds, and ½ teaspoon salt. Process until finely chopped, about 20 seconds. Add the parsley and process until chopped, about 10 seconds. With the machine running, add ½ cup of the oil, then process until smooth, about 1 minute, scraping the bowl as needed; set aside. Season the fish all over with salt. In a 12-inch skillet set over medium heat, combine the remaining ¼ cup oil with the garlic and the cubanelle pepper. Cook, stirring often, until the garlic begins to brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the wine and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring, until the wine reduces by half, about 4 minutes. Add 1 cup water and bring to a boil. Add the clams, then cover and cook, occasionally shaking the skillet, until the clams have opened, about 4 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and, using a slotted spoon, transfer the clams to a bowl, discarding any that have not opened; cover to keep warm. In a small bowl, whisk the flour and ½ cup of the broth mixture until smooth, then whisk the mixture into the broth in the skillet. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring often; the liquid will thicken. Add the fish, then cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 4 minutes, adjusting the heat as needed to maintain a very gentle simmer. Advertisement Using a wide metal spatula, carefully flip the fillets. Re-cover and cook until the centers of the fillets are opaque and reach 120 degrees, another 2 to 4 minutes. Using the spatula, transfer the fillets to serving bowls. Return the sauce to a simmer over medium heat, then stir in the parsley puree and remove from the heat. Taste and season with salt. Pour the sauce over the fish and top with the clams. Spice-Braised Lemon-Cilantro Chicken Joe Murphy Spice-Braised Lemon-Cilantro Chicken Makes 4 to 6 servings In this dish of braised chicken with notes of herb, spice, and citrus, we coax the fullest, boldest flavor from fresh cilantro by using both the stems and leaves. The roughly chopped stems are blended with aromatics and lemon juice into a vibrant green puree that's added at two stages: at the start of simmering so the ingredients have a chance to mellow and meld, and again at the end of cooking, along with the delicate cilantro leaves, for an infusion of fresh, bright flavor. Boneless chicken parts do not work in this recipe. Bone-in thighs or breasts are essential for developing depth of flavor in the sauce; they also slow the cooking for less risk of dry, overdone meat. And after browning the chicken, be sure to remove the skin, which loses crispness during simmering and otherwise would make the sauce greasy. Leaving the seeds in the serrano chili will give the dish a noticeable but not incendiary heat; for a milder version, seed the chili before roughly chopping it. Advertisement Serve with basmati rice or warm naan. 1 medium bunch cilantro, stems roughly chopped and leaves chopped, reserved separately 2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh ginger 4 medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled 1 serrano chili, stemmed, seeded (if desired), and roughly chopped (see headnote) 3 tablespoons lemon juice, divided, plus lemon wedges, to serve Kosher salt and ground black pepper 2 teaspoons grape-seed or other neutral oil 3 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs, breasts, or a combination, trimmed, with breasts halved crosswise, if using 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1 teaspoon ground turmeric In a blender, combine the cilantro stems, ginger, garlic, chili, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, ¾ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper, and ¼ cup water. Puree until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes, scraping the blender jar as needed. Set aside. In a 12-inch skillet set over medium-high heat, warm the oil until shimmering. Add the chicken skin side down; cook, without disturbing, until well browned, about 5 minutes. Flip and cook until browned on the second sides, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a large plate; remove and discard the skin. Pour off and discard all but 2 tablespoons fat from the skillet. Set the skillet over medium heat, then add the cumin, coriander, and turmeric; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add 1¾ cups water and scrape up the browned bits, then stir in half of the puree. Add the chicken and accumulated juices; bring to a simmer. Cover, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook until the chicken no longer is pink when cut into with a knife, about 25 minutes. Using tongs, transfer the chicken to a platter. Simmer the sauce, uncovered and stirring, until slightly reduced, 5 to 7 minutes. Off heat, stir in the remaining cilantro puree, remaining 1 tablespoon lemon juice, and the cilantro leaves. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve the chicken with the sauce spooned over it and with lemon wedges on the side. Christopher Kimball is the founder of Milk Street, home to a magazine, school, and radio and television shows. Globe readers get 12 weeks of complete digital access, plus two issues of Milk Street print magazine, for just $1. Go to Send comments to
Boston Globe
20-03-2025
- General
- Boston Globe
Superfoods for spring: Recipes with sweet potatoes, lentils, and salmon
Makes 4 servings When it comes to sweet potatoes, there's no need to get complicated. Goguma-bap is a traditional Korean dish of sweet potatoes (goguma) and cooked rice (bap). Our take has a pure sweet potato flavor accented by chewy short-grain rice; we prefer the nuttiness of brown short-grain rice for added complexity. The sweet potatoes and rice usually are steamed together plain, then seasoned at the table with a mixture of soy sauce. We opt to season the sweet potatoes with just a little of this sauce before cooking to make them especially flavorful. Get Starting Point A guide through the most important stories of the morning, delivered Monday through Friday. Enter Email Sign Up 1 cup short-grain brown rice, rinsed and drained Advertisement 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced ¼ cup low-sodium soy sauce 1 tablespoon unseasoned rice vinegar 1 medium garlic clove, finely grated 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 teaspoon honey or white sugar 1 pound orange-flesh sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch chunks Kosher salt and ground black pepper In a large saucepan, combine the rice and 1¾ cups water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook without stirring for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together the scallions, soy sauce, vinegar, garlic, pepper flakes, honey, and 2 tablespoons water. In a medium bowl, toss the sweet potatoes with 2 tablespoons of the soy mixture and ½ teaspoon black pepper. After the rice has cooked for 15 minutes, uncover the pot, scatter the sweet potato mixture over the surface of the rice (without disturbing the grains) and re-cover. Cook over low heat until both the potatoes and rice are tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Advertisement Remove the pot from the heat and let stand, covered, for 10 minutes. Gently fluff the rice and sweet potatoes with a fork, trying not to break up the potatoes. Serve with the remaining soy sauce mixture for drizzling. Harissa-Honey Lentil Salad With Almonds Connie Miller Harissa-Honey Lentil Salad With Almonds Makes 4 servings Lentils du Puy are a French variety with a speckled green color and a firm, nutty texture even when fully cooked. In this recipe we dress Puy lentils, carrots, and tangy-sweet raisins (or chopped dried apricots) with a harissa- and honey-spiked lemon vinaigrette. Don't allow the lentils to cool completely before tossing them in the dressing. If dressed when warm, the lentils will absorb some of the seasonings so they're flavorful inside and out. The lentils require about 20 minutes of simmering; use that time to prep the other ingredients for the salad. Served at room temperature or even lightly chilled, this is a great side to roasted or grilled meats of any sort, but also makes a terrific light vegetarian main. 1 cup lentils du Puy, rinsed and drained Kosher salt and ground black pepper ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil ¼ cup lemon juice 1 tablespoon honey 1 tablespoon harissa paste ½ teaspoon ground cumin 2 large carrots, peeled, quartered lengthwise, and cut in ¼-inch pieces ½ cup raisins or chopped dried apricots Leaves from 1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, torn if large ½ cup sliced almonds, toasted In a large saucepan, combine the lentils, ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper, and 5 cups water. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to medium and cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until the lentils are tender but still hold their shape, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain in a colander and let cool for about 10 minutes. Advertisement In a large bowl, whisk together the oil, lemon juice, honey, harissa, cumin, and ¼ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Add the warm lentils, carrots, raisins, and parsley; toss to combine. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve sprinkled with the almonds. Seared Salmon With Avocado Sauce and Tomato-Cilantro Salsa Connie Miller Seared Salmon With Avocado Sauce and Tomato-Cilantro Salsa Makes 4 servings We borrow from Colombia's take on guacamole—spiked with both lime juice and vinegar as well as fresh chilies—to create an easy, no-cook sauce for salmon fillets. A fresh tomato-cilantro salsa finishes the dish, adding a bright, acidic note to balance the rich, savory fish. Don't shy away from using the habanero chili. Its fruity flavor pairs perfectly with the avocado. It does give bold spiciness to the sauce, but the richness of the salmon keeps the heat in check. 1½ cups cherry or grape tomatoes, roughly chopped 5 tablespoons lime juice, divided, plus lime wedges, to serve Kosher salt 2 scallions, cut into 1-inch lengths 1 Anaheim chili, stemmed, seeded, and cut into rough 1-inch pieces 1 habanero chili, stemmed and seeded 2 tablespoons white vinegar 1½ cups lightly packed fresh cilantro, divided 1 ripe avocado, halved, pitted, peeled, and chopped Four 6-ounce center-cut salmon fillets (each 1 to 1¼ inches thick), patted dry 1 tablespoon grape-seed or other neutral oil 2 tablespoons salted butter In a medium bowl, toss the tomatoes with 1 tablespoon of the lime juice and a pinch of salt. Set aside. In a blender, combine the scallions, both chilies, vinegar, 2 tablespoons of the remaining lime juice, and ½ teaspoon salt. Blend until smooth, about 30 seconds. Add ¾ cup of the cilantro and the avocado. With the blender running, stream in 3 tablespoons water and blend until smooth and creamy, about 1 minute, scraping the blender jar as needed; if needed, add up to 1 tablespoon more water to achieve the correct consistency. Set aside. Advertisement Season the salmon on both sides with salt. In a 12-inch nonstick skillet set over medium-high heat, warm the oil until shimmering. Add the fillets flesh side down, reduce to medium heat, and cook until golden, about 4 minutes. Using a wide metal spatula, flip the fillets, add the butter, and increase to medium-high heat. Once the butter stops foaming, spoon it over the fillets, adjusting the heat to prevent the butter from burning. Cook and baste the fish until the thickest parts reach 115 to 120 degrees, or are nearly opaque when cut into, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour the remaining 2 tablespoons lime juice into the pan and baste the fillets once or twice more. With a wide metal spatula, transfer the fillets to individual plates. Spoon about 2 tablespoons avocado sauce over each fillet. Add the remaining ¾ cup cilantro to the tomatoes and toss, then spoon over the salmon. Serve the remaining avocado sauce on the side, along with lime wedges. Christopher Kimball is the founder of Milk Street, home to a magazine, school, and radio and television shows. Globe readers get 12 weeks of complete digital access, plus two issues of Milk Street print magazine, for just $1. Go to Send comments to
Boston Globe
25-02-2025
- Lifestyle
- Boston Globe
Three Mardi Gras recipes worthy of a celebration
Makes 4 servings Gumbo commonly is made with meat or seafood — or both — with okra or filé powder (ground dried sassafras leaves) added for flavor as well as for thickening; this is sometimes in addition to a dark roux made with fat and flour. This recipe delivers a flavorful, meat-free stew that's hearty but not heavy, with tangy-sweet tomatoes and a touch of spice and sugar complementing the mild vegetal notes of the okra. Get Starting Point A guide through the most important stories of the morning, delivered Monday through Friday. Enter Email Sign Up Be sure to choose fresh okra that's firm, unblemished, and bright green. Don't slice the okra too far in advance or it may become slimy. For convenience, you can freeze the cut okra (for up to several months), then thaw it just before use. For best results, set the slices, not touching, on a sheet pan and freeze until firm, then transfer to a freezer-safe storage bag until ready to use. Advertisement Serve the gumbo Louisiana style — that is, in individual bowls, spooned around a mound of steamed white rice, with freshly sliced scallions for sprinkling on top and a bottle of hot sauce alongside. Miss the meat? Feel free to pair this gumbo with plump shrimp or smoky andouille sausage (or both). 1 tablespoon grape-seed or other neutral oil 1 medium yellow onion, chopped 1 poblano chili or 1 small green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and chopped 2 teaspoons cumin seeds or coriander seeds, lightly crushed Kosher salt and ground black pepper Advertisement 28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand 1 teaspoon white sugar or packed light brown sugar 1 pound okra, stemmed and sliced into ½-inch rounds Steamed white rice, to serve 3 scallions, thinly sliced Hot sauce, to serve In a large Dutch oven set over medium-high heat, warm the oil until shimmering. Add the onion, chili, cumin, and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Add the tomatoes with juices, the sugar, and 1 cup water. Bring to a boil, then add the okra. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the okra is tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper. To serve, mound the rice in bowls, add the gumbo alongside, and sprinkle with the scallions. Offer hot sauce on the side. Maque Choux With Andouille Sausage Connie Miller Maque Choux With Andouille Sausage Makes 4 servings Maque choux, pronounced 'mock shoe,' is eaten year-round, yet the origins of the spicy medley of corn, peppers, and onions are somewhat murky. Native Americans introduced the Cajuns to corn, as well as many other ingredients that show up in Cajun cuisine. In fact, the commonly cited etymology of 'maque choux' suggests that it was derived from a French interpretation of its Native American name. Andouille sausage is not traditional, but we like its smoky, meaty flavor paired with the sweetness of fresh corn. And, in addition to the standard green bell pepper, we add in a poblano chili, which has an earthy flavor and mild heat. Frozen corn won't work in this recipe, as it lacks the delicate crispness of fresh and won't produce the corn 'milk' needed to give this dish the proper consistency. Corn kernels freshly cut from the cobs are best here, as the starchy milk can be scraped from the cobs and used to enrich the maque choux without the use of heavy cream, which can mute the other flavors in the dish. Advertisement Remember to salt the vegetables immediately after adding them to the skillet. This helps draw out moisture so they soften faster. 3 ears of corn, husks and silks removed 1 tablespoon grape-seed or other neutral oil 6 ounces andouille sausage, halved lengthwise and cut into ½-inch pieces 2 tablespoons salted butter 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped 1 small red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped 1 poblano chili, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped Kosher salt and ground black pepper 2 medium garlic cloves, minced ½ teaspoon dried thyme 1 tablespoon cider vinegar 4 scallions, thinly sliced Using a chef's knife, cut the kernels from the ears of corn, then set the kernels aside. One at a time, stand each stripped cob in a wide bowl, then use the back of the knife to scrape from top to bottom all around it, allowing the liquid to fall into the bowl. Add the kernels to the bowl and set aside. In a 12-inch skillet set over medium-high heat, warm the oil until shimmering. Add the sausage and cook, stirring, until well browned, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and discard any fat in the skillet. Set the skillet over medium heat and melt the butter. Add the onion, bell pepper, poblano chili, and ½ teaspoon salt. Cook, scraping up any browned bits and stirring occasionally, until the vegetables have softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the garlic and thyme, then cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Advertisement Increase the heat to medium-high and add the corn kernels and liquid, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Cook, stirring, until the corn is crisp-tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Return the sausage to the skillet, then stir and cook until heated through, about 1 minute. Stir in the vinegar, then taste and season with salt and pepper. Stir in the scallions, then serve. Miso-Spiced Rum Bananas Foster Connie Miller Miso-Spiced Rum Bananas Foster Makes 4 servings Bananas foster is a uniquely American dessert that originated at Brennan's restaurant in New Orleans. To give the classic a big flavor update, we swap out the usual brown sugar for honey, which sweetens while adding floral nuances. A little white miso — the lightest, sweetest, most delicate miso — brings balance with a delicious savoriness. And to add even more flavor (without extending the ingredients list), we use spiced rum as a one-ingredient way to infuse the buttery sauce with flavor and aroma. Rather than flambé the whole dish, which is traditional, we take a safer, flame-free approach, gently cooking off the alcohol to temper its harshness. (You'll know it's done when it no longer smells 'raw.') While usually served with good-quality vanilla ice cream, it also makes a fantastic crepe filling or pancake topping. An optional dusting of Chinese five-spice powder lends intriguing spiciness that complements the rum. 3 tablespoons salted butter, cut into 3 pieces 3 tablespoons honey 1 tablespoon white miso 2 bananas, peeled and halved lengthwise then crosswise ½ cup spiced rum Advertisement Vanilla ice cream, to serve In a Dutch oven set over medium heat, melt the butter. Stir in the honey and miso. Add the bananas and cook, stirring carefully so as not to bruise the fruit, until the sauce is slightly darker in color, about 2 minutes. Off heat, pour in the rum. Return the pan to medium heat and cook, stirring carefully, until the alcohol no longer smells raw, about 2 minutes. Divide the bananas and sauce among 4 serving bowls, then top with ice cream. Garnish with the Chinese five-spice powder, if using. Christopher Kimball is the founder of Milk Street, home to a magazine, school, and radio and television shows. Globe readers get 12 weeks of complete digital access, plus two issues of Milk Street print magazine, for just $1. Go to Send comments to
Boston Globe
18-02-2025
- General
- Boston Globe
Take chicken, pork chops, and soup from bland to bold
Makes 4 servings This aromatic braise with a warm yellow hue is our version of Ethiopian doro alicha, the milder cousin of better-known, more intensely spiced doro wat. Turmeric, onion, ginger, and garlic supply the flavor foundation. The dried herbs and spices mimic the complexity of niter kibbeh, a spice-infused butter ubiquitous in Ethiopian cooking. Get Starting Point A guide through the most important stories of the morning, delivered Monday through Friday. Enter Email Sign Up Serve with injera, a spongy, slightly sour Ethiopian flatbread, if you can get some. Otherwise, rice, or even naan, is a good accompaniment. Advertisement Make sure to cover the pan and reduce the heat while simmering the chicken. The amount of liquid in the skillet is relatively scant (this is intentional, to keep the flavors concentrated); covering and gentle simmering will prevent it from evaporating. 3 tablespoons ghee or neutral oil 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped Kosher salt and ground black pepper 1½ tablespoons finely grated fresh ginger 4 medium garlic cloves, minced 1 teaspoon ground turmeric ½ teaspoon dried Mexican oregano or ¼ teaspoon each dried oregano and dried thyme ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom 1 cup dry white wine 2 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs and/ or drumsticks, skin removed and discarded In a 12-inch skillet set over medium-high heat, warm the ghee until shimmering. Add the onion and ½ teaspoon salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned and fully softened, 10 to 12 minutes; reduce the heat if the onion browns too quickly. Stir in the ginger, garlic, turmeric, oregano, cinnamon, cardamom, and ½ teaspoon pepper. Cook, stirring, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the wine and Advertisement cook over medium-high heat, scraping up any browned bits, until the liquid has evaporated, 4 to 5 minutes. Add ¾ cup water and the chicken, turning to coat. Bring to a simmer, then cover, reduce to medium-low heat, and simmer, occasionally stirring and turning the chicken, until a skewer inserted into the largest piece meets no resistance, 18 to 20 minutes. Uncover, increase the heat to medium-high, and cook, stirring often, until the cooking liquid has thickened enough that a wooden spoon drawn through the sauce leaves a trail, 5 to 8 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Cinnamon, Beef, and Noodle Soup Connie Miller Cinnamon, Beef, and Noodle Soup Makes 6 servings We first made this recipe with two cinnamon sticks, but its flavor didn't come through, so we tripled it and added anise seeds, as well. The broth is still balanced but much brighter. Instead of developing flavor by browning the beef, we get rich umami flavor from soy sauce. You can prepare the broth and meat up to three days ahead; refrigerate both until needed, then discard the solid fat from the surface of the broth and proceed. Six 3-inch cinnamon sticks 2 teaspoons anise seed ½ cup soy sauce ½ cup rice wine 8 scallions, trimmed and halved crosswise into white and green parts 1 bunch cilantro 4-inch length ginger (3 ounces), cut into pieces and smashed 3 pounds beef shank, trimmed 8 ounces dried wheat noodles 5 ounces baby spinach 1 teaspoon chili-garlic sauce, plus more to serve Ground white pepper In a 7-quart Dutch oven set over medium heat, toast the cinnamon sticks and anise until fragrant. Advertisement Add 8 cups water, plus the soy sauce, wine, scallion whites, cilantro, and ginger. Bring to a simmer. Add the beef, then cover and simmer over low heat until the beef is tender and falling off the bone, 2½ to 3 hours. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the beef to a large plate and cool. Pour the broth through a mesh strainer into a large bowl. Discard the solids and return the broth to the pot. When cool enough to handle, shred the meat, discarding fat and bones, then return the meat to the broth. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the noodles and cook until al dente. Drain and reserve. Meanwhile, return the broth to a simmer. Add the spinach and cook until wilted, about 1 minute. Off heat, stir in the chili-garlic sauce and season with white pepper. Divide the noodles between serving bowls and ladle the soup over, seasoning with additional chili-garlic sauce, if desired. Salt-and-Pepper Pork Chops With Spicy Scallions Connie Miller Salt-and-Pepper Pork Chops With Spicy Scallions Makes 4 servings The salt-and-pepper treatment is a Cantonese technique applied to meat, seafood, and tofu. The protein typically is deep-fried, but here we opt to pan-fry pork that we first dust in cornstarch seasoned generously with Sichuan pepper, black pepper, and cayenne. The easiest way to grind the tongue-tingling Sichuan peppercorns for this recipe is in an electric spice grinder. In a classic salt-and-pepper dish, chilies and garlic are quickly fried and tossed with the cooked protein for big, bold, in-your-face flavors. We, however, finish the pork with a fresh, punchy uncooked mix of sliced scallions, chopped cilantro, minced chilies, rice vinegar, and grated ginger. Advertisement When shopping, look for boneless pork loin chops that are ¼ to ½ inch in thickness. They sometimes are called pork cutlets. Serve with steamed jasmine rice. 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced 1 cup lightly packed fresh cilantro, roughly chopped 1 Fresno or jalapeño chili, stemmed, seeded, and minced 2 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar 1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger Kosher salt and ground black pepper 3 tablespoons cornstarch 1 tablespoon Sichuan peppercorns, finely ground (see headnote) ½ to 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper ½ teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder 8 boneless (about 1½ pounds) thin-cut pork loin chops/ cutlets (¼ to ½ inch thick), patted dry 1⁄3 cup grape-seed or other neutral oil In a medium bowl, toss together the scallions, cilantro, chili, vinegar, ginger, and ¼ teaspoon salt; set aside. In a wide, shallow dish, mix together the cornstarch, Sichuan pepper, cayenne pepper, five-spice, 2 teaspoons black pepper, and 1 teaspoon salt. Dredge the cutlets in the cornstarch mixture, turning to coat both sides and pressing so the mixture adheres, then transfer to a large plate, stacking or shingling as needed. In a 12-inch nonstick skillet set over medium-high heat, warm the oil until barely smoking. Add half of the cutlets and cook until browned on the bottoms, 2 to 3 minutes. Using tongs, flip the cutlets and cook until golden brown on the second sides, about 1 minute. Transfer to a platter and tent with foil. Cook the remaining cutlets in the same way, using the oil remaining in the skillet. Spoon the scallion-cilantro mixture onto the finished chops before serving. Christopher Kimball is the founder of Milk Street, home to a magazine, school, and radio and television shows. Globe readers get 12 weeks of complete digital access, plus two issues of Milk Street print magazine, for just $1. Go to Send comments to
