4 days ago
Why you should visit Dortmund—Berlin's flourishing little brother
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Dortmund is one of the largest centres in Germany's own 'Rust Belt', the Ruhr — a cluster of western cities that became heavily industrialised after the late 18th century. For more than 100 years, the city was a hub of coal and steel production, the chimneys of its factories piercing the smog. While much of the heavy industry is now gone, the ghosts of this heritage still hulk over the landscape, with disused manufacturing sites offering glimpses into the past, and serving as reimagined spaces for art and culture.
Before exploring Dortmund's industrial sites, take a walk around the historic centre. The city was founded in 882, and a clutch of churches is testament to its medieval history. Marienkirche is remarkable for its sandstone altar with a lavish blue, red and gold triptych (an art work composed of three panels) by 15th-century local artist Conrad von Soest. Directly opposite lies Reinoldikirche, named after Dortmund's patron saint; climb the 200 steps to its belltower for views across the city. Nearby, Petrikirche is home to Das Goldenes Wunder von Westfalen ('The Golden Miracle of Westphalia'), a winged altar that, when opened, reveals 36 panels and 633 gilded figures.
Germany's currywurst — a street food consisting of sliced bratwurst sausage smothered in a spicy sauce and served with chips or a bread roll — has a cult following in Dortmund. Try it at Wurst Willi, or get your fix at Böckels Beste, with four distinctive black-and-yellow sites around the city.
Beer is equally revered; in addition to coal and steel production, brewing was once one of Dortmund's primary industries. In the centre, Zum Alten Markt is a rustic restaurant that's been serving beers on tap and Westphalian cuisine, including pork knuckle, since 1956. Across the square, Wenkers am Markt offers a vast range of beers in a more modern, sports-bar environment.
On the edge of the centre, and topped by a golden 'U', the U-Tower used to house the headquarters of Union Brauerei, once one of the city's largest breweries. Today, there's a free-to-access viewing platform on the rooftop, while the floors beneath have been given to cultural spaces. Here Here, Museum Ostwall is a highlight, with 20th-century art on display across three levels.
Another transformed space is 26.4-acre Hansa, a former coking plant located 30 minutes from the centre by public transport. It closed in 1992, and it's now preserved by Germany's Foundation for the Protection of National Monuments. Tours offer glimpses into the city's industrial past, including technical demonstrations of the gas-compressors.
The site is also home to SchwarzGold, a fine-dining restaurant in the former deep-freeze plant. The setting combines heavy industry — high ceilings, raw concrete, exposed girders — with design flourishes, such as clever lighting and gold chain curtains. Michelin-acclaimed chef Pierre Beckerling's 'Straight outta Ruhrpott' tasting menu changes weekly and comes with unexpected plating elements, such as a wicked stepmother figurine looming over an apple-themed dessert.
Since the 1990s, Dortmund has been synonymous with football thanks to the superstardom of local team Borussia Dortmund. For a fascinating view into wider German football history, the German Football Museum — directly opposite the central station — shouldn't be missed. Exhibits cover everything from the score predictions of a 'psychic' octopus to the story of how women's football overcame adversity, as well as England's controversial third goal in the 1966 World Cup. Did the ball cross the line? Watch in slow motion and cast your vote. Three highlights
1. Wurst WilliThis imbiss (snack bar) has achieved star status in the currywurst world — and with good reason. The sausages are sourced from a German butcher, and the sauce is made fresh every day. To order like a local, nod enthusiastically when asked: 'ein bisschen scharf?' ('spicier?').
2. The Dortmund Brewery Museum In the 1960s, Dortmund produced more beer than anywhere else in Germany. This free-to-visit museum traces the history of brewing in the city with exhibits including equipment, labels and ads, from branded glasses to an original 1922 beer truck. It's a 25-minute bus journey from Dortmund's main station.
3. Westfalenstadion
Time your visit with a Borussia Dortmund match and experience Die Gelbe Wand ('The Yellow Wall' — the sight of the team's fans in the south stand, all clad in yellow shirts and chanting. At other times, book a guided tour and learn more about the club's history at the adjacent Borusseum.
