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Irish Times
26-05-2025
- Irish Times
Visit Copenhagen to unlock the secrets to happiness: great food, self-assured style and bicycles
It's the bicycles you notice first when you arrive after the 15-minute journey by metro from Copenhagen Airport into Kongens Nytorv, the large cobbled square in Copenhagen city centre. Cycling with confidence and speed along cycle lanes that run between the footpaths and roads, these bipedal owners seem to be going in all directions but the pedestrians, bus drivers and the trickle of cars seem to understand the hierarchy. The bicycle is king in the Danish capital, and you'll see adults carrying children, shopping and sometimes even another adult on their bikes. We even witnessed two people transporting a sofa on a large front carrier of a bicycle during our visit. Copenhagen is one of the best cycling cities in the world, and is nearing its goal of becoming a carbon neutral city by 2025 with more cyclists than cars. READ MORE Although smartphones have made paper maps almost obsolete for most of us, one of my favourite things to do when I arrive in a new city is to wander aimlessly with a paper map. Somehow it gives you a different perspective on the city, Copenhagen included, allowing you to discover a low-key place to eat along the interconnecting lakes that divide the city centre (Indre By) to Norrebro in the north, or a stylish coffee shop in the elegant streets of Frederiksberg in the west, or the vintage shops in the slightly grittier streets of Vesterbro in the south. We spent our first day of three walking through elegant palace yards (and even caught the formal changing of the guard, which happens at noon every day at Amalienborg Palace), along pedestrian shopping streets, into city gardens, past monumental museums and crossing over canals. Copenhagen: Nyhavn at sunset. Photograph: iStock There is plenty to see in Copenhagen beyond the brightly coloured facades of restaurants and bars in Nyhavn, the new harbour area, which is a magnet for tourists. And since the city streets aren't dominated by motorised vehicles, spending time here is a less stressful experience than in other car-clogged places. But all those bicycles are hard to ignore, so we decided to do as the Danes do and hired some on day two. Travelling at a slower pace than the locals, cycling allowed us to cover more ground and explore further. We opted to cycle north of Nyhavn along the harbour side to see the statue of the Little Mermaid, one of the symbols of Copenhagen. Perched on a rock near Churchill Park, the tiny sculpture by Edward Eriksen was inspired by ballerina Ellen Price, who in 1909 danced the leading role in a ballet based on the Hans Christian Andersen's 19th-century fairy tale. The Little Mermaid at the harbour in Copenhagen on October 9, 2015. Photograph: Odd Andersen/AFP via Getty Bicycles are a great way to explore the outer reaches of the city too. And while Christianshavn, with its famous hippie quarter, Freetown Christiania, is perhaps not as relaxed as it was in previous decades (Pusher Street, where cannabis was openly sold despite being illegal in Denmark, was closed down in 2024 after gang-related violence), it still draws tourists. Freetown Christiania. Photograph: Getty We cycled north to the former industrial site at Refshaleoen, passing by the world-famous restaurant Noma, in its low-key site surrounded by glasshouses and wetlands. We were in awe of the new residential buildings in this expanding quarter. Onwards we went to see the floating student houses at Urban Ritter, passing another urban farm and one of Copenhagen's coolest restaurants, La Banchina. Gro Spiseri, also surrounded by an urban farm in Osterbro district, is another popular eating spot with sustainability credentials. And, not to be overshadowed, Copenhagen's waste to energy plant, Copenhill – another short cycle away – also attracts visitors to ski down its purpose-built ski slope or rock climb, and the views are spectacular from its rooftop cafe on a clear day. This whole Amager quarter has undergone urban renewal with lots of striking residential buildings. Although we arrived too early in the season to indulge in the warm evening atmosphere, I have fond memories of a previous visit, sitting close to the stunning Opera House, eating street food from the popular, Reffen Street Food Market. Broens Street Food (Bridge Street Kitchen), just over the Inderhavn's bridge on the Christiania side, is another popular outdoor eating spot where everyone can grab a dish of their choice. The indoors Tivoli Food Market near the central train station is an good option for rainy days. Smørrebrød – open sandwiches with rye bread loaded high with everything from herring to roast beef – are a must. Smørrebrød with prawns, chives, dill, lemon slices and edible flowers. Photograph: Getty Organic food is a big thing in Denmark; a quarter of all food sold in Copenhagen is organic, and due to a a government policy, it makes up 88 per cent of food served in schools, hospitals and other public institutions. We didn't have deep enough pockets to sample the many Michelin star restaurants, but the pastries in the artisan bakeries were too hard to resist. A cube-shaped pastry filled with pistachio cream and an excellent almond croissant were among the highlights. There is also a rich choice of museums – from Danish 19th- and 20th-century art in the Hirschspurng Collection just north of the National Gallery, to the Museum of Danish Resistance, to the tiny Happiness Museum with its focus on wellbeing and quality of life. Although it rains a lot and the winters are long, the Danes are deemed to be among the happiest nationalities in the world. We opted to visit the Danish Design Museum, housed in a former city-centre hospital with a stunning courtyard garden. With exhibitions on patterns, lamps and table setting through the ages and 19th- and 20th-century chairs, it is a great place to gain an understanding of the key principles of Danish design, which first came to international prominence in the mid 1950s and continues to flourish. Copenhagen takes its design seriously, and although you mightn't get beyond a glimpse through apartment windows to see how the residents live, you can wander through the numerous furniture design showrooms antique shops, clothing boutiques and art galleries at your leisure. If you have more time, there are lots of other museums, including the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, which would require a day trip from the city centre. And, as mentioned, the contemporary architecture in this city is so striking that Copenhagen is the Unesco-UIA World Capital of Architecture from 2023-2026. You'll see most of it as you wander by, but essential buildings to keep an eye out for include the Black Diamond Royal Library on the harbour, the nearby Blox Danish Architecture Centre, the Royal Danish Playhouse and of course the Opera House. Finally, if you're travelling in the summer months, pack your swimming gear and join locals in one of the seven swimming spots on the harbour. Proud of the cleanliness of the harbour water, taking a lunchtime dip is as popular as weekend trips to places such as Island Brygge. You can also rent boats ( ) to tour the harbour and canals in your own time afterwards.
The Guardian
18-04-2025
- The Guardian
6 ways to explore the best-kept secrets of Copenhagen
A gastronomic powerhouse rich in history, design and everyday charm, Copenhagen is brimming with one-of-a-kind must-sees and dos away from the crowds. Once known primarily for The Little Mermaid and the colourful houses at Nyhavn, Copenhagen has evolved into a foodies' heaven and a frontrunner in sustainable architecture and design. But never at the cost of the city's strong historical and cultural heritage and local life. The blend of old and new, coupled with a relaxed and unpretentious lifestyle, makes Copenhagen the perfect place to play temporary local. Here are 6 ways to discover a lesser-known side of the Danish capital. And with new direct SAS flights from Seattle to Copenhagen it's never been easier to go see for yourself. 1. Go swim in the harbour Copenhagen is blessed with several beaches just a short bike ride away, but a local secret is to go for a swim in the inner-city harbour. There are 14 swimming zones and harbour baths to choose from. Once a cesspit for industrial waste and sewage, the harbour is now a hotspot for watersports such as swimming, kayaking, rowing, and stand-up paddling, thanks to the City of Copenhagen's decade-long clean-up efforts. In summer, Copenhagernes flock to the waterfront to enjoy a quick dip or soak up some sun, while in the colder months, the harbour lends itself perfectly to winter swimming. Either way, it's a great way to experience a different side of the city and get among the locals. Find a guide to the different swimming zones and harbour baths here 2. Line up for world-class bread and pastries with the locals If you think Copenhageners aren't passionate people, you clearly haven't witnessed their love affair with baked goods. The tradition of bakeries goes back a long time, but the last decades' immense focus on gastronomy has sparked a new bread and pastry revolution in Copenhagen. Today, there's a pastry for almost every holiday and celebration, and locals happily queue outside their favourite bakery to be able to sink their teeth into the right bun with cheese. This love for good bread, combined with many new bakeries run by former Michelin chefs, has lifted the city's bakery scene to a whole new level. In other words, no visit to Copenhagen is complete without a trip or two to a Copenhagen bakery. Learn more about the best bakeries and pastry shops here 3. Dine with locals What used to be a local secret, communal dining has become increasingly popular in Copenhagen. And to be fair, what's not to like about delicious and diverse food at reasonable prices combined with great company in a cosy environment? It's a great way to experience a more authentic, local side of the city and get a taste of Copenhagen's community spirit. Absalon is one of the best-known community spaces in the city. Here, you can dine most nights for a very reasonable 60 DKK. You can also play bingo, listen to music, drop into a pottery or life drawing class, and enjoy unique community events like silent discos. At Kanalhuset Christianshavn, a daily shared dinner is served on long tables, inviting guests to chat and get to know each other. They also run lovely events that bring people together, including knitting, crocheting, yoga and sketching nights. It doesn't stop with dining. There are also several social running clubs you can join and social boat tours where you can take in the city's many sights while connecting with the other passengers. 4. Explore Copenhagen's museum café scene Copenhagen's strong focus on gastronomy is also evident in its cultural scene, where museums are no longer just destinations for world-class art and exhibitions but also house must-try eateries. In recent years, many of the most popular museums and cultural institutions have lifted their café offering, employing top chefs to create new distinct menus and architecture firms or interior designers to redesign and redecorate the café space. The food at these cafés often revolves around the Nordic palette, featuring Danish lunch classics like the open-faced sandwich smørrebrød. However, many of these places also serve breakfast, snacks, and dinner, or even transform into late-night bars—like Apollo Bar at Kunsthal Charlottenborg—making them popular go-to spots among locals. Find more museum cafes here 5. Ski all year on top of a power plant Copenhagen's artificial mountain top, CopenHill, is a great example of integrating green solutions into the urban landscape. Not only does the waste-to-energy plant provide district heating to approximately 160,000 households and electricity to 62,500 residences, but it also offers a variety of recreational activities for locals and visitors all year round. On top of the plant, you have Copenhagen's first artificial ski slope, where you can go skiing or snowboarding. If you are not much of a skier, you can try the hiking trail that goes all the way along CopenHill's roof. At CopenHill, you will also find the world's highest climbing wall at 85 meters, where certified climbers can test their skills. Find out more about Copenhill here 6. Copenhagen Sprint: Join Copenhagernes in celebrating cycling A great way to get among the locals is to be a spectator at some of the big events that Copenhagen hosts throughout the year. And this summer, it's all about cycling. Often touted as the world's most bike-friendly capital, Copenhagen has nearly 400 km of bike lanes, bridges and cycle superhighways, and for a big part of the population, it's their main mode of transportation. Reaffirming its love for the two-wheeler, Copenhagen is also due to host its first UCI World Tour bike race, Copenhagen Sprint, which will attract the world's best female and male cyclists. The race will start out in the city of Roskilde and finish in the heart of Copenhagen. In true Copenhagen style, the focus is not just on the race itself, but on creating a big bike celebration for locals and visitors. During race days, there'll be side events across the city and a cycling festival for big and small, just as the organisers will open up some of the Copenhagen Sprint route for everyday cyclists to give it a go before the riders. Copenhagen Sprint is on from 21 – 22 June. This content is paid for and supplied by the advertiser. Find out more with our
