Latest news with #Cordings
Spectator
03-08-2025
- General
- Spectator
I flew to Florence to find my father's shoes
Just before my father died, he visited Mannina in Florence to have his feet measured for a pair of shoes. I'd found the handwritten receipt in his desk on thin yellow paper, stapled with small samples of leather. Online pictures of Mannina showed a glass-fronted shop of lacquered wood and brass, the name in beveled gold across the door. So after months without a holiday, I booked a cheap short haul flight from London to Italy, determined to track down these missing shoes. My father had been a tailor for much of his life, the third man in Pakeman Catto & Carter, an established men's clothing shop in the Gloucestershire town of Cirencester. 'At one point he'd dressed half the gentlemen of England,' my uncle said at his funeral, which is probably not far from the truth. I remember when I was at school seeing the emerald flash of a teacher's coat (green linings were Pakemans house style) and another parent's dotted navy handkerchief, stitched with their belt and dragon insignia. About a decade ago, Pakemans was bought out by Cordings. But my father always adored old-fashioned family-run establishments. When I was a teenager, he took me to get a pair of shoes at Ducker & Sons in Oxford, which shod J.R.R. Tolkien, Evelyn Waugh and Herbert Asquith. I remember him laughing and laughing with the man who ran the shop. Buying from such people was almost a civic duty. Duckers closed in 2016. But Mannina is still going after more than 70 years. It's on the southern side of Florence's Ponte Vecchio, the famous bridge that's lined with small shops overlooking the River Arno, on the main street leading to the Pitti Palace. I explained to the kind woman at Mannina why I had come and she led me through the back corridors and into the workshop. As we entered, I had a rush of nostalgia. Low lamps hung from the ceiling, people sat at vice benches covered by newspaper, the workshop filled with the smell of glue and leather. I have foggy memories of being a child and taken to the room above Pakemans where tailors with tape measures around their necks cut lengths of cloth. 'Mr Carter,' a man in a frayed leather apron said, 'I'm very sorry to hear about your father.' He brought out a sketch of the shoes they had designed together and a pair of lasts. What a strange thing to see the shape of his feet – identical to the wooden shoe trees still in his bedroom in Gloucestershire. I didn't really know what to say. 'He had paid for the shoes but we never finished the measurements. We can either make a new pair for you or you can pick two pairs off the shelf.' It would be bad luck if I chose the custom pair and then also popped my clogs. So we returned to the front of the building and I found myself hopping about the shop, trying on tasselled deerskin numbers and ornate perforated brogues. The owner, Antonio, was as Italian as you could imagine – floppy greying hair, immaculate cream chinos, a shirt collar that burst out from his lapels. 'From London, eh? You'll need something with a strong sole for all the rain!' He smiled as he brought out boxes and told me that his father had died recently too. I realised who it was in the photographs hung between the shelves – the same floppy hair, but greyer, the kindly face of Signor Mannina Snr. As Antonio encouraged me to try on yet more shoes, I imagined what my father's advice would be: get one sober pair for work, the second can be more relaxed. The first pair I chose were dark brown suede boots, all clean lines and perfect leather soles. The kind you could wear for a relaxed stroll up to the Pitti Palace for a Campari spritz. For the serious pair, I asked if Antonio had something in a slightly more English style, perhaps with rounded toes and without too much patterning (I have not inherited the same sense of sprezzatura as my Florentine friend). So we settled on simple Derbys with immaculately polished black toecaps and semi-rubber soles for that grim London weather. Antonio took the Derbys and bent them backwards, twisting the vamp to show me just how soft the leather was. They are, without a doubt, the most comfortable things I have ever put on my feet. Two and a half years after my dad's death and 900 miles from Gloucestershire, I was handed a bag containing what are surely the finest shoes in all of Italy. As I was leaving, Antonio turned to me, put his hand on my shoulder and said 'thank you' – as though I had just done him some great favour rather than the other way around. There is nothing in this world more decent than a family-run business.
Telegraph
10-03-2025
- Entertainment
- Telegraph
How to dress like a royal at Cheltenham
The Cheltenham Festival draws over 65,000 racegoers every March, making it one of the biggest events in British racing. It's a four-day spectacle of thrilling racing and countryside chic, with enough Guinness flowing to fill three Olympic swimming pools. Unlike the formal dress codes of events like Royal Ascot, Cheltenham doesn't impose any official style rules in any of its three enclosures. As Jade Holland Cooper of Holland Cooper notes: 'Cheltenham represents tradition, heritage, and sophistication; it really is the ultimate countryside catwalk.' – Dressing for Cheltenham is about practicality as much as style. With unpredictable British early spring weather, sturdy shoes and boots replace heels, and layering with gloves and weatherproof outerwear is essential. Paired with the traditional formality of racing events, it's a unique set of criteria that peaks on 'Style Wednesday', offering an off-track fashion showdown. Despite these challenges, it's possible to strike the perfect balance between chic and practical and no one does it better than the Royal family. Since the early 1900s, members have made their mark at Cheltenham. There was the Queen Mother in 1987 wearing her signature blue; Diana, Princess of Wales turned heads in 1982 when she wore a red mohair coat while pregnant with Prince William. The late Queen wore the likes of Hardy Amies and our current Princess of Wales stunned racegoers in 2013 wearing a blush pink Joseph coat, as did our current Queen in a chic wide brimmed faux fur hat in 2023. In fact, whether you'll be in the Guinness Village or up in a box, there is no better starting point for outfit inspiration. Read on for our essential guide... Your coat is key At Cheltenham, a coat is your first line of defence against the elements, so invest in one that's warm, weatherproof, and of course stylish. 'When it comes to outerwear, wool or tweed coats are essential, says Hillary Bacon, marketing director of Cordings. 'An overcoat is a classic option, but whatever you choose, ensure it's sturdy enough to shield you from the often bracing winds.' A well-tailored long or knee-length coat, or a coat dress, in a neutral tone is timeless and versatile, easily paired with accessories again and again. The Princess Royal, for instance, wore the same coat in 2007 and 2024. For a contemporary look, try a tailored trouser suit or cape as favoured by Zara Tindall. Layer a cashmere roll neck underneath in a tonal colour for warmth to and keep things sleek. Alternatively, you could channel a look seen on the now-Princess of Wales in 2007 – a skirt suit, a look that's gaining traction at the moment as spotted recently on Anna Wintour and Anya Hindmarch. Embrace colour In addition to your choice of outerwear, the colour you choose is just as important. Stylist Alice Hare notes: ' Tweed, tweed, and more tweed is the unspoken dress code of Cheltenham. Accessories are the perfect way to inject modernity and drama into a traditional fabric. If you're not keen on tweed, stick to earthy tones to avoid looking out of place.' In 2006, The Duchess of Edinburgh added jewel tones by matching her buttons to her hat and bag. Stick with a traditional colour palette and elevate it with a patterned scarf or hat, or allow a statement check coat to take centre stage, complimented by tonal accessories such as a pair of leather gloves. Take inspiration from the late Queen Elizabeth II, who wore a blue check coat in 2003. Sensible footwear is a must When it comes to footwear at Cheltenham, practicality is essential. Opt for boots in neutral or dark tones that can easily complement your gloves or handbag. Leather is a smart choice due to its durability and to withstand unpredictable weather conditions. Whilst in the late 1950s heels were once considered a royal requirement, today, stylish boots or flats are the go-to for attending the festival. Penelope Chilvers advises: 'When attending Cheltenham, go for sturdy yet stylish boots. It tends to be cold and often wet, so choose ones with a good grip'. Knee-high boots with block heels are a royal favourite, offering both style and stability, no one wants to risk sinking into the turf in stilettos. Choose timeless accessories To elevate your Cheltenham look, consider timeless accessories like brooches and earrings. Antique jewellery historian Zuleika Gerrish of Parkin & Gerrish explains, 'A brooch isn't just for a lapel; pin it on a hat, belt, cuff, scarf, or even a bag for a unique twist.' The Princess Royal's gold horse brooch, worn across three days last year, perfectly illustrates how one piece can complement multiple outfits. Queen Camilla is also known for her sentimental brooches, like the horseshoe brooch she wore in 2024 to honour King Edward VII's racehorse 'Minoru.' In 2023, she wore a brooch similar to one owned by Queen Elizabeth II, depicting a jockey in the King's racing silks. When it comes to earrings, keep it classic with simple gold studs or drop pearl earrings. Honour Wainwright, Director of Boodles advises, 'I find earrings are the most important pieces to wear throughout the festival. With Cheltenham's often chilly weather, roll neck jumpers and long sleeved coats can make pendants and bracelets less visible. Earrings, however, always stand out - enhancing an outfit while remaining practical, even in the most unpredictable conditions!' For a more contemporary look, Zara Tindall sometimes opts for chunky earrings, complimenting her outfits, especially when wearing modern styles like a trouser suit. Seek a polished finish As you are usually layered up, a knockout look is heavily reliant on a good hat or bag. Renowned milliner, Rachel Trevor Morgan says: 'I would always recommend a felt or wool hat as the weather can be very variable and windy. Opt for stylish, stand out felts with a more wintry feel. Keep it simple but go for a strong silhouette. Feathers are also a great option either as a trim or a headpiece.' Queen Camilla and the Princess Royal are often seen wearing wide-brimmed styles to classic pillboxes. For an alternative to wider-brimmed hats, Zara Tindall often opts for more structured, contemporary styles in a pop of colour. Additionally, a structured leather bag, crossbody or clutch is just as important and keeps you hands-free for a glass of champagne or your racecard. Shop the look
Telegraph
16-02-2025
- Lifestyle
- Telegraph
The best Wellington boots for men, women and kids for long walks in the countryside
Few things unite Britons, from farmers to the fashion set, like Wellington boots. Defined by their durability and the fact they can withstand the UK's 1,200mm of average yearly rainfall, they're the quintessential British shoe. 'It's more than practicality now – wellies are something of a status symbol,' says welly expert Fiona Coe of Coes, an independent chain of clothing and country attire shops in Suffolk and Norfolk. That's why so much has been made of the fact that the Princess of Wales's favourite brand is Le Chameau (whose sales rose 36 per cent once it was known.) As country-dwellers and city workers, we're interested in finding wellies that look good as well as feel good, and which can hack a sludgy country field but wouldn't look out of place on Hampstead Heath. That's a tall order. Read on below for our full reviews, but if you're in a hurry, here's a quick look at our top five: Which are the best wellington boots? At a glance How to choose the best Wellington boots for you 'The strict criteria we have for countrywear is that they are fit for purpose, durable and look good,' says Hillary Bacon of Cordings, the traditional country outfitters in Piccadilly, London. She likes royal-approved Chameau boots but notes they are a significant outlay and by no means the only option. Coe favours Barbour ('If you want a good pair at a reasonable price, that you know is going to last you, they're the ones to go for') and the new heritage country-wear brand Holland Cooper, whose sherpa-lined Wellingtons are a popular urban-country hybrid option. If you're looking for Wellingtons for occasional wear, or for kids, you may not want to spend upwards of £50 on a pair. But Bacon says: 'I always apply a simple calculation – the number of times worn divided by the price. A good pair of boots will last for years, so if you are intending to wear Wellingtons even once a month it's worth it.' Why you can trust Telegraph Recommended Our guides will always help you find the best product at the best price. No manufacturer ever sees copy before publication and we do not accept payment in exchange for favourable reviews. Visit our Who We Are page to learn more. How we tested the best Wellington boots
