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I spent 48 hours in Ireland's rebel city — it's in the midst of a revolution
I spent 48 hours in Ireland's rebel city — it's in the midst of a revolution

Metro

time4 days ago

  • Metro

I spent 48 hours in Ireland's rebel city — it's in the midst of a revolution

Choking through the scent of manure, I swallow a swarm of midges as I cycle past a meadow. I'm spluttering and my eyes are streaming, but I've never been so glad to be home in Ireland. Freewheeling down gently rolling hills, I'm rounding out a weekend in Cork, the rebel city that's experiencing a full-throated cultural renaissance. With trendy cafés and pastel-hued townhouses lining the cobbled streets, and jigs and reels drifting out from pubs, it has the hallmarks of a major metropolis but the heart (and the craic) of a village. Rivalry between Dublin and its southern sister runs deep. But even as a proud Dubliner, I have to admit that everything my fair city does, Cork does better. I'm less than ten steps outside Kent station when I'm reminded that, like everywhere in Ireland, it's the people who make the place. Fuel your wanderlust with our curated newsletter of travel deals, guides and inspiration. Sign up here. Corkonians speak like a song, in a distinct, lilting accent with an undulating rhythm. Welcomes are warm wherever you go, from the bar staff in Sin é to the taxi drivers on George's Quay. Cork was voted Europe's second friendliest city in 2023, and, more recently, one of the 25 best places in the world — the only Irish inclusion on National Geographic's prestigious travel bucket list for 2025. The city is served by a decent transport network, with hourly trains arriving from the capital from 6am until 9pm. Cork Airport, a 15-minute drive from the centre, has direct routes to major European destinations and UK hubs including Manchester, Birmingham and London's Big Four. Once you're there, though, the best way to see Cork is on foot. 'Everything is within walking distance and I think that's what has kept the sense of community so strong,' says Dave Riordan, a guide with Fab Food Trails. Nowhere is it stronger than in Myo's, a riverside café that hosts Irish language meet-ups and does a mean banana bread. I spend well over an hour there, listening to the gossip of na gaeilgeoirí . Benches and chess tables were installed outside this stretch of shops during Covid, and they're one of the few pandemic relics locals are happy to keep. Each time I pass, strangers are chit-chatting. After scoping the area, I drop my bags at The Imperial Hotel, a piece of living history on South Mall where Irish revolutionary hero Michael Collins spent his final night. With maximalist chandeliers and marble floors, it exudes old-school glamour — but the highlight is room 115, which has been transformed into a luxury suite with a vintage four-poster bed in honour of 'The Big Fella' (from €318 per night). Set in a pedestrianised zone, the hotel is minutes from award-winning attractions: the historic English Market, the contemporary Glucksman gallery, and Nano Nagle Place, a museum and rose garden dedicated to theCork-born women's educator. Further afield but well within walking distance, the Butter Museum is the place to delve into Irish folklore and heritage. The retro Kerry Gold ads from the 50s and 60s are worth the trip alone, and at £5, entry is a steal. Past the second-hand bookshops and ceramic studios that line the River Lee is the Franciscan Well Bar and Brewery, one of Ireland's oldest microbreweries and a clear community favourite. There's craft beer on tap, a hole-in-the-wall serving wood-fired pizza and live music most weekends, but it's smiling regulars who make this place special. Cork loves tourists, but locals are its lifeblood. 'There are lots of exciting things happening with food and drink in Cork,' says Seamus Heaney, Head of Visit Cork (and a man with a very famous namesake). 'The likes of Franciscan Well and Clonakilty Distillery show that the country, as a whole, is no longer dependent on Guinness and Jameson for its reputation.' Quirky and creative, Cork has always known how to have a good time. On Saturday night, I bounce between trad sessions at Osho and Tom Barry's before ambling to Callanan's, purveyor of what is said to be the best Beamish in the city. There are no TVs, no music, and they'd prefer you to put your phone away — a proper Irish pub, though you'd miss a bit of fiddle. It's in good company. A few doors down is Izz Café, a popular Palestinian restaurant that serves glorious sharing plates and the best maqluba I've had outside the West Bank. The café has just been named Ireland's best Middle Eastern restaurant, and, according to owner Izzedeen (Izz) Alkarajeh, they make the best hummus in the country. After tasting it, I agree. The next morning, I thumb through vinyl at plugd records, an independent coffee shop cum wine bar that goes the extra mile for both local and international charities. After a stroll around Fitzgerald Park, I'm ready to take on the spectacular showcase of Cork cuisine that is a tour with Fab Food Trails (€80pp), which includes stops at Miyazaki, a Japanese takeaway headed by Michelin star chef Takashi Miyazaki, and My Goodness, a vegan deli in the English Market that goes big on fermentation. Other standouts are Goldie, a narrow restaurant with a menu that changes daily, and Elbow Lane, a nano-brewery and smokehouse that serves butter-soft T-bones and local buffalo burrata (more on that later). To understand Ireland's culinary present, you must have a sense of its colonial past. The island and its microclimate are fertile ground for everything from beef and oysters to butter and cheese. But for centuries, this natural wealth was exported to England, while the Irish went hungry. It's hard to be creative when your focus is survival. Hundreds of years were spent bowing to the 'superior' food cultures of our European neighbours, yet before the arrival of the potato in the late 16t century, the people of this island foraged for vegetables, fruit and nuts, and ate shellfish, seaweed, and what would now be called organic red meat. Today, Irish produce is rightfully regarded as some of the highest quality in the world, and kitchens are finally catching up. 'We're in an exciting moment where people are doing amazing things with wild food like seaweed, grass, foraged stuff like that, and fusing that with fine dining and concepts from abroad,' Suzanne Burns, leader of Kinsale Food Tours, explains. The willingness to experiment is obvious: take Johnny Lynch, who took a punt on turning his family's generations-old dairy into a buffalo farm. The Lynches imported 31 water buffalo from Italy to their land in Macroom in 2009, at the height of the global financial crisis. Today, they have a herd of over 700 and a thriving business that stocks the English Market with everything from mozzarella and ricotta to natural yoghurt. Then there's Koko Kinsale, a high-end chocolate shop owned by Frank Keane, who ran Ireland's leading ceramic gallery until business dried up in the recession. Now, he pours his artistry into intricate, colourful sweets. Years of work in local tourism have shown Seamus Heaney how Cork and its residents tick. 'It's very easy to push open doors here,' he says. 'People pivot careers, or they go abroad for a while, as they always have in Ireland. Eventually, they come back with ideas, and crucially, they come back to find a community willing to help them.' That ethos extends to many local enterprises, including Cork's first greenway, which opened in Midleton in December. More Trending Wife and wife Fiona O'Driscoll and Deirdre Roberts, who run Cork Bike Hire, opened a new location in east Cork specifically to cater to the tourists they hope it will attract. Cycling along this idyllic stretch, I pass a couple who stopped to help an elderly farmer close a wrought-iron gate. As Seamus says, at the end of the day, Cork is a place where people look out for each other. Day 1 Coffee and pastries at plugd records Tasting tour with Fab Food Trails (€80pp, worth every penny) Explore Elizabeth Fort, the Glucksman and Nano Nagle's garden Dinner at Elbow Lane followed by Guinness and a trad session at Sin é Day 2 Breakfast at Myo's (try the banana bread) Cork Butter Museum for a history lesson and butter-making demonstration Take the train to Midleton and cycle the newly opened Greenway (€50 per day for an electric bike from Cork Bike Hire) OR Take the bus to Kinsale and go on a walking food tour with Kinsale Food Tours (from €75pp) Dinner at Izz Cafe followed by a pint of Beamish at Callanan's Alice Murphy was a guest of Fáilte Ireland. MORE: German city dubbed 'Gateway to the World' has £28 return flights – and 2,500 bridges MORE: Famous Hollywood couple shattered after learning they can't move to Ireland permanently MORE: One person dead and child injured after gunman with 'explosives' fires at Tesco

Everything you need to know ahead of the Cork City Marathon 2025
Everything you need to know ahead of the Cork City Marathon 2025

RTÉ News​

time26-05-2025

  • Sport
  • RTÉ News​

Everything you need to know ahead of the Cork City Marathon 2025

Final Preparations are underway for the 2025 Cork City Marathon, which is set to take place on Sunday, 1 June. Whether you're lacing up your racing shoes, supporting a loved one, or just trying to navigate the city, here is some helpful information to ensure a smooth experience. Details for participants: This year's Cork City Marathon features three sold-out race distances: the full marathon, half marathon, and a 10k race. Maps of each race route are at Full Marathon: Starts at 8:15 am from St. Patrick's Street. Half Marathon: Starts at 10.15 from Monahan Road (Assembly at Kennedy Park T12H9CF) 10k Race: Starts at 8:45 am from St. Patrick's Street (Assembly on Merchant's Quay at 8:15) Race packs, including bib and timing chip, must be collected during the official registration in Cork City Hall. Note: If you cannot collect your pack, someone else can do it for you with your registration form, barcode, date of birth, and mobile number. Course Amenities: 13 water stations will be available across the marathon course, and two for the 10k race. The locations of the water stations are marked on the Course Map located on the Cork City Marathon website. You can also fill up your hydration belt, backpack, or your own bottle. Toilets are available at City Hall, near the start/finish lines, and portaloos throughout the course. The locations of these are noted on the course map. Period Products: Available at water stations near portaloos. Details for supporters: The day is for all Corkonians, from young to old. Spectators play a vital role, unleashing creativity with motivational signs, cheers, and applause that resonate throughout the course. The best points to view the race from include: Patrick Street/ Grand Parade/ anywhere in the city centre By the Elysian St. Patrick's Bridge (seeing the race on both sides of the river) Turners Cross The Lough Model Farm Road near MTU You can pick any of the supporter spots along the route, and it would be particularly valuable in areas known for being mentally and physically tough, such as the mid-point of the marathon and the final kilometres leading towards the finish line. Navigating the city: With an event of this scale, some disruption is unavoidable, and road closures are essential to provide a course and ensure the safety of all participants. It is advisable to plan your route in advance if coming in or out of the city by car, bus or train. Black Ash Centre, South City Link (N27) - runs every 8-12 minutes from 6:15 am - €5 for the day. Public Transport:

Vandals torching Cork City's ‘Riviera' with ‘reckless' wildfires, in major threat to local homes
Vandals torching Cork City's ‘Riviera' with ‘reckless' wildfires, in major threat to local homes

Irish Independent

time24-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Irish Independent

Vandals torching Cork City's ‘Riviera' with ‘reckless' wildfires, in major threat to local homes

Murphy's Rock has been a popular recreation area for generations of Corkonians A number of homeowners are fearing for loss of property and potentially life, as man-made wildfires are being regularly set in the heart of a historic grassland. Murphy's Rock – an area coined 'the Riviera of Cork' by comedian and actor Niall Tóibín – is one of the few remaining green spaces on Cork's northside. With a history dating back to the Ice Age, the area is an essential part of the local ecosystem.

5 of Cork's best-kept ‘secret' beaches on which to soak up the rays
5 of Cork's best-kept ‘secret' beaches on which to soak up the rays

Irish Independent

time17-05-2025

  • Irish Independent

5 of Cork's best-kept ‘secret' beaches on which to soak up the rays

As the largest county in Ireland, we also have a wealth of beaches to make the most of, whether it's Myrtleville near the city, Owenahincha down West, or Youghal in East Cork. No doubt the crowds will be thronging the major beaches, but if you're looking to escape the crowds, then here's some of our best suggestions for some secret spots across the county. Howe Strand This is a personal favourite! Howe Strand is a secluded, horseshoe-shaped narrow beach, located near Kilbrittain, just off the road between Kinsale and Clonakilty. The strand has beautiful golden sand, as well as a stream running its way down from the hills above. The abandoned boathouse on the far end of the bay makes for a good rocky walk destination for those more adventurous, who can go on for an early evening meal in either popular tourist towns of Kinsale or Clon. Nohoval Cove The drive down the narrow rural passageway to this beautiful strand is not for the faint-hearted, but if you get down there early and are willing to have a bit of patience on the way back, it will reward you with superb views. Nohoval is another beach not too far from the city, located on the road towards Minane Bridge, which can be reached either through Carrigaline, or by turning off the main road to Kinsale. Sadly the popular walk nearby has been largely closed off due to it being on private land, but the cove itself is still worth a visit, especially in this weather. White Bay Beach (Cuan Bán) East Cork doesn't get nearly as much love as it should for its beaches. So many Corkonians pass by the likes of Ballybranigan and Ballinwillig on their way to the wide strands in Ardmore. White Bay is another one of those lesser-spotted gems. The beach is situated on the road to Roches Point, which you find yourself on after taking a right from Trabolgan Holiday Camp. The beach has a decent car park, and while the descent is steep, the usually quiet beach makes up for the walk. The beach is situated right at the mouth of the harbour, so is also a great spot for some ship spotting if that floats your boat! (sorry). Dunworley Beach We're going further west now, and only just a little ways down the coast from our top pick is another gem. Dunworley is a gorgeous little inlet, surrounded by wild flowers of all colours, which makes a superb backdrop for a dip. Best check the tide levels before heading down however, as the beach can rapidly disappear as the tide comes in. Dunworley is located in Barryroe, which is best reached by heading through Timoleague. However, arrive early if you can, parking is limited and this is a bit of a known spot for locals. Heir Island Bay Beach This flat, sandy beach is definitely the hardest to reach, but worth it if you fancy a day trip. Heir Island can be reached by taking a short boat ride from Cunnamore Pier, located on the outskirts of Skibbereen. Take the main road (N71) to Bantry, and turn left just after Ilen Rovers GAA pitch, on country roads that will take you to the headland of Cunnamore, where the ferry is located. The island does have its own B&B, as well as a restaurant, if you don't want to be eating sandy sandwiches! In conclusion, Cork is a gorgeous county just ready to be explored. With baking sunshine once again expected this weekend, get out and make the most of it! Just stay safe on the roads.

Ireland's Rebel City offers a delicious deep dive into the past
Ireland's Rebel City offers a delicious deep dive into the past

Yahoo

time15-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Yahoo

Ireland's Rebel City offers a delicious deep dive into the past

As we power walked through the teeming centre of Cork, late for our meeting with Angela Newman in Daunt Square and uncertain if we could even find her, my phone buzzed with a message: 'No problem. Can't miss me. I'm wearing a bright yellow cape.' She did stick out in the crowd, not just because of the cape but the lace up bodice and woollen dress much like that of an Irishwoman from a bygone age. All part of her routine in leading us on her 'Hysterical Histories' walking tour of this storied city, the second largest in the Republic of Ireland. Asked if the Corkonians are sensitive about being compared to Dublin, Newman answered with a grin: 'No, because we know we're better. We always thought that we were deserving of being the capital rather than them.' Leading us down Grand Parade, past the statue of independence hero Michael Collins and the monument to Irish uprisings, Newman recounted how the city is also known as Rebel Cork; it is always the last to give up in various battles over the centuries, even if it had an unfortunate tendency to back the losing side. Modern Cork is a handsome, vibrant university town, bisected by the picturesque River Lee, with bustling pubs and a hot restaurant scene. Even if it lost out to Dublin as the seat of the national government, it has another title it proudly claims: Ireland's food capital. 'We really do have high standards,' said Newman. 'Actually, even last week I was in London with my 14-year-old son and he was, like, 'the food here is awful.'' Cork has a wealth of locally-produced food, beef, dairy and vegetables from the surrounding countryside and seafood from nearby fishing towns. All are on display in the English Market. Dating from 1788, it is the oldest covered market in the British Isles, aisles jammed with fishmongers laying out the catch of the day, butchers with meat from farmers down the road (including the Cork specialty, spiced beef) and cheese mongers selling a wide variety of local product. 'For a small place there is an amazing cross-section of small, artisan family run food producers, many of whom have been acknowledged on the world stage,' said Paul Lane, executive head chef at the River Lee Hotel and known as one of the best cooks in a town replete with them. Lane has known many of the producers for decades, with delicious results on his menus in The Grill Room. My daughter and I demolished Irish fillet steaks, while my wife enjoyed locally caught Dover sole. Afterwards, I appreciated how the hotel's bartender was able to make an astute recommendation of an Irish whiskey as a follow-up to our feast (Powers 12-year-old, made at the distillery in nearby Midleton). The River Lee Hotel was our elegant base for our visit, located right beside the waterway that gave it its name and a short walk to the centre of the city. Our fourth-floor room offered a panoramic view over the river and cityscape. A central part of the Cork food story can be found at the Ballymaloe House Restaurant, a 40-minute drive out into the lovely countryside. We met JR Ryall, head pastry chef, whose dessert trolley took the top prize in its category in the 2019 World Restaurant Awards in Paris. Over tea and scrumptious slices of his coffee cake, Ryall told us the remarkable story of the restaurant's founder, Myrtle Allen. She opened Ballymaloe in the family's farmhouse in 1964, with minimal advertising so as to not attract gossip from the neighbours. With little formal training but natural cooking talent, Allen's mission was to champion the excellent local produce. She elevated it with sophisticated technique, making her a pioneer of the farm to table concept. 'The idea was that you could make a French bearnaise sauce, but with Irish butter it might taste better than in France,' said Ryall. Now Ballymaloe has an international reputation, and the associated cooking school is training the next generation of chefs. Anyone visiting Cork should consider the short drive out to the picturesque port town of Cobh (pronounced Cove), the last port of call for the Titanic before the famous vessel met its tragic fate. Cobh was also the point of embarkation for hundreds of thousands of Irish who fled the country during the desperate days of potato famine in the 1840s and 50s. The Cobh Heritage Centre offers a vivid glimpse into their ordeal, a moving experience for those of us descended from those emigrants. Afterwards, it was well worth enjoying a Sunday roast in the nearby Titanic Bar and Grill, gazing out at the sea and wondering what your ancestors thought as they pulled away from the shore all those years ago. There are several trains a day from Dublin to Cork, with a 2.5-hour journey. Along with Angela Newman's walking tours, there is also a Hysterical Histories dinner theatre show at the Amicus Restaurant. The River Lee hotel is part of the Irish-owned Doyle Collection of luxury properties. Rooms in the off season start at about C$360/night. Goldie is a fish restaurant recommended by JR Ryall. Along with the lovely restaurant, Ballymaloe House has 32 rooms, with bed and breakfast starting at about C$530/night in the off season. The Cobh Heritage Centre is open seven days a week, year round. The Titanic Bar and Grill is just down the street and is next door to the Titanic Experience, where guides lead you through stories of the passengers. Sean Mallen's visit to Cork and Cobh was supported in part by the Irish Tourism Board and the Doyle Collection, neither of which reviewed the article in advance.

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