Ireland's Rebel City offers a delicious deep dive into the past

Yahoo

15-05-2025

As we power walked through the teeming centre of Cork, late for our meeting with Angela Newman in Daunt Square and uncertain if we could even find her, my phone buzzed with a message:
'No problem. Can't miss me. I'm wearing a bright yellow cape.'
She did stick out in the crowd, not just because of the cape but the lace up bodice and woollen dress much like that of an Irishwoman from a bygone age. All part of her routine in leading us on her 'Hysterical Histories' walking tour of this storied city, the second largest in the Republic of Ireland.
Asked if the Corkonians are sensitive about being compared to Dublin, Newman answered with a grin: 'No, because we know we're better. We always thought that we were deserving of being the capital rather than them.'
Leading us down Grand Parade, past the statue of independence hero Michael Collins and the monument to Irish uprisings, Newman recounted how the city is also known as Rebel Cork; it is always the last to give up in various battles over the centuries, even if it had an unfortunate tendency to back the losing side.
Modern Cork is a handsome, vibrant university town, bisected by the picturesque River Lee, with bustling pubs and a hot restaurant scene. Even if it lost out to Dublin as the seat of the national government, it has another title it proudly claims: Ireland's food capital.
'We really do have high standards,' said Newman. 'Actually, even last week I was in London with my 14-year-old son and he was, like, 'the food here is awful.''
Cork has a wealth of locally-produced food, beef, dairy and vegetables from the surrounding countryside and seafood from nearby fishing towns.
All are on display in the English Market. Dating from 1788, it is the oldest covered market in the British Isles, aisles jammed with fishmongers laying out the catch of the day, butchers with meat from farmers down the road (including the Cork specialty, spiced beef) and cheese mongers selling a wide variety of local product.
'For a small place there is an amazing cross-section of small, artisan family run food producers, many of whom have been acknowledged on the world stage,' said Paul Lane, executive head chef at the River Lee Hotel and known as one of the best cooks in a town replete with them.
Lane has known many of the producers for decades, with delicious results on his menus in The Grill Room. My daughter and I demolished Irish fillet steaks, while my wife enjoyed locally caught Dover sole.
Afterwards, I appreciated how the hotel's bartender was able to make an astute recommendation of an Irish whiskey as a follow-up to our feast (Powers 12-year-old, made at the distillery in nearby Midleton).
The River Lee Hotel was our elegant base for our visit, located right beside the waterway that gave it its name and a short walk to the centre of the city. Our fourth-floor room offered a panoramic view over the river and cityscape.
A central part of the Cork food story can be found at the Ballymaloe House Restaurant, a 40-minute drive out into the lovely countryside. We met JR Ryall, head pastry chef, whose dessert trolley took the top prize in its category in the 2019 World Restaurant Awards in Paris.
Over tea and scrumptious slices of his coffee cake, Ryall told us the remarkable story of the restaurant's founder, Myrtle Allen. She opened Ballymaloe in the family's farmhouse in 1964, with minimal advertising so as to not attract gossip from the neighbours.
With little formal training but natural cooking talent, Allen's mission was to champion the excellent local produce. She elevated it with sophisticated technique, making her a pioneer of the farm to table concept.
'The idea was that you could make a French bearnaise sauce, but with Irish butter it might taste better than in France,' said Ryall.
Now Ballymaloe has an international reputation, and the associated cooking school is training the next generation of chefs.
Anyone visiting Cork should consider the short drive out to the picturesque port town of Cobh (pronounced Cove), the last port of call for the Titanic before the famous vessel met its tragic fate.
Cobh was also the point of embarkation for hundreds of thousands of Irish who fled the country during the desperate days of potato famine in the 1840s and 50s. The Cobh Heritage Centre offers a vivid glimpse into their ordeal, a moving experience for those of us descended from those emigrants.
Afterwards, it was well worth enjoying a Sunday roast in the nearby Titanic Bar and Grill, gazing out at the sea and wondering what your ancestors thought as they pulled away from the shore all those years ago.
There are several trains a day from Dublin to Cork, with a 2.5-hour journey.
Along with Angela Newman's walking tours, there is also a Hysterical Histories dinner theatre show at the Amicus Restaurant.
The River Lee hotel is part of the Irish-owned Doyle Collection of luxury properties. Rooms in the off season start at about C$360/night.
Goldie is a fish restaurant recommended by JR Ryall.
Along with the lovely restaurant, Ballymaloe House has 32 rooms, with bed and breakfast starting at about C$530/night in the off season.
The Cobh Heritage Centre is open seven days a week, year round.
The Titanic Bar and Grill is just down the street and is next door to the Titanic Experience, where guides lead you through stories of the passengers.
Sean Mallen's visit to Cork and Cobh was supported in part by the Irish Tourism Board and the Doyle Collection, neither of which reviewed the article in advance.