2 days ago
This hidden Italian town is perfect for a summer escape
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Imagine if the Amalfi Coast was all but unknown — that's the charm of Maratea. Bordered by Campania to the north and Calabria to the south, the municipality occupies the only portion of the Tyrrhenian coast in the whole of Basilicata. It's a near 20-mile stretch home to striking black-sand beaches, boat-fresh seafood and panoramic vistas overlooking the glittering Gulf of Policastro. But despite possessing all the hallmarks of the quintessential Italian seaside getaway, the Maratea area is yet to draw the crowds associated with its better-known coastal counterparts. It's also more accessible than ever thanks to recently launched British Airways flights from London to Salerno — located just an hour and 45 minutes by car or an hour and 15 minutes by train. Take time to explore Maratea's Centro Storico, or historic centre, and enjoy a coffee at one of the many outdoor cafes.
Maratea is not one single town, but a collection of mountain and seaside hamlets dotted around an old urban core. This Centro Storico, or historic centre, is a maze of cobblestone streets, colourful medieval homes and narrow alleyways twisting toward the main square, Piazza Buraglia. Take some time to enjoy a coffee or aperitif at one of Caffe E Dolcezze Di Laprea's outdoor tables. And be sure to visit Pasticceria Panza, a bakery known for its traditional bocconotto (shortcrust pastry filled with cream and black cherry or chocolate). Shop for Lucanian (the term used to describe people or things from Basilicata) specialities at Divino Maratea, including wines making use of Basilicata's famous Aglianico grapes, as well as local spirits, including Amaro Naturale, which is made from the aromatic herbs that grow throughout Maratea.
From the old town, take the winding, white-knuckle drive to the top of Monte San Biagio, where the marble-faced Cristo Redentore, an imposing Christ the Redeemer statue, stands with its arms stretched out towards the green Lucanian Apennines. Make a loop around the platform at the foot of the 69ft sculpture for incredible views of the rocky coastline and bright-blue sea below. The imposing Christ the Redeemer statue is one of the area's most recognisable attractions.
Nearby, you'll find the Chiesa di San Biagio — one of 44 churches in the Maratea area, which is home to just over 5,000 people. The simple white basilica has housed the relics of San Biagio, the patron saint of Maratea, since the year 732 BCE. Up here, visitors can also wander around the crumbling ruins of the area's original settlement, known as Maratea Superiore, which also dates back to the seventh century. It was slowly abandoned during the 16th and 17th centuries as inhabitants moved further down the mountainside to establish the old town — also reachable via the myrtle-lined footpath just off the main road.
A short distance away, the Port of Maratea was once a landing place for local fishermen. It now hosts luxury yachts and sailboats — and provides the departure point for boat tours. Dea Maris Boat Tour Maratea takes visitors along Maratea's dramatic coastline, which was featured in the 2021 James Bond film No Time to Die.
Keep an eye out for the Saracen Towers, cliffside forts built in the Middle Ages to defend the region from pirate attacks. You'll also get a good view of the two islands that hover off the coast of Maratea: Santo Janni and the even smaller La Matrella. In the waters surrounding the former, hundreds of Roman anchors and amphorae have been found on the seabed. To learn more about the area's ancient artefacts, head to Palazzo de Lieto museum, where exhibits occupy an imposing 18th-century palace originally built to house the old town's first hospital.
From the water, you may also spy Maratea's famous black-sand beach, Cala Jannita, located just a 10-minute drive from the centre. To explore the fascinating caves around Cala Jannita — such as the Grotta della Sciabella — consider a kayaking tour with Fly Maratea.
The port is also home to some of Maratea's best restaurants, including Lanterna Rossa. Situated in an old fisherman's house overlooking the marina, this elegant fine-dining spot sees young Lucani chef Dario Amaro serve classic dishes, such as sea urchin linguine and cuttlefish risotto, with modern flair. Toward the hamlet of Fiumicello, meanwhile, you'll find the cosy, family-run La Cambusa, which has been serving fresh local seafood since the 1950s. Hotel Santavenere's comfortable rooms and fragranced gardens offer a peaceful escape in the mountains.
Nearby is Maratea's only five-star accommodation, Hotel Santavenere. Home to sprawling gardens and a secluded beach, the property was once a family villa owned by Count Stefano Rivetti — a wool industrialist from Piedmont who made a new life in Maratea, opening the hotel to the public in 1953. Every Tuesday between May and October, one of its three restaurants, Le Lanterne, hosts a buffet-style meal featuring ingredients and wines from Basilicata, performances from local singers and demonstrations from libbani artists, who weave baskets and other objects from grass blades. Visitors can try this historic local craft for themselves at a workshop with New Mediterranean Libbaneria.
It would be easy to whittle away time in Maratea on a sun lounger, but the region's upped its adventure cred in recent years — particularly with the opening of a via ferrata climbing route in 2021, which stretches from the historic centre to the top of Monte San Biagio. Ivy Tour Basilicata offers guided tours and equipment rental. Alternatively, set off on a day-hike to Monte Crivo. Starting just outside the village of Brefaro (about five miles from Maratea's old town), the trail takes travellers to an altitude of 3,783ft — offering sweeping views of Basilicata's mountainous countryside and the glimmering Tyrrhenian Sea. British Airways offers direct flights from London to Salerno. From here, Maratea is easily reachable by car or train. The 34-room Hotel Santavenere, with its colourful Vietri tiles, antique furniture and sweeping sea views, is a convenient base for exploring the area. From €440 (£347), B&B.
This story was created with the support of Hotel Santavenere. To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
