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Forbes
02-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Forbes
What Is Queer Food? A Talk With Author John Birdsall
A banner reading 'We Are Everywhere' at a Gay Pride march on Fifth Avenue in New York City, USA, ... More July 1979. (Photo by) In his book released a month ago, What is Queer Food? How We Served a Revolution, writer/historian John Birdsall challenges readers to dive deeply into a chronicle of culture that was quite literally curated and nourished by people having to hide a giant piece of their authentic selves. This important record not only reveals so much more about who these figures were--like James Baldwin, Alice B. Toklas, Esther Eng, Harry Baker, Craig Claiborne, Richard Olney, and James Beard, etc.,--but firmly establishes their rightful places in history, and within the culinary sphere of taste and pleasure that hummed throughout the 20th century. Originally set out to produce more of a memoir, Birdsall was encouraged by his editor, Melanie Tortoroli, to see this project as an opportunity to widen the scope, to create something that hadn't been done before, all while still being able to share a sense of his own perspective and experience within a world he knew well and deeply loved. She encouraged him to take queerness in food in whatever direction he saw fit. Birdsall admits there came a well of freedom upon such an invitation to explore. Cover of Birdsall's new book, What is Queer Food? Released on June 3. Cover illustration by Naomi P. ... More Wilkinson and book design by Sarah May Wilkinson (no relation). The Book The result is a book that is truly the first of its kind, one that spans genres and takes risks. In one way, Birdsall picks up where he left off in his 2013 article, 'America, Your Food is So Gay' for Lucky Peach; and from his 2020 biography of James Beard, The Man Who Ate Too Much, in order to take on this next, much broader project. Nevertheless, Birdsall says, 'I think this book has always been in me.' In an unmistakably beautiful, literary voice, one underscored by the intersection of history, emotion, and experience, What is Queer Food? also asks readers to look at the term 'queer' through a sharper lens; to give it more dimension and nuance, something he said younger generations--like the Gen Zers, who've shown up at his book signings and talks--do with a fluency that his own generation hasn't fully grasped. According to recent research, approximately 30% of Gen Z adults identify as queer and LBGTQ+ (HRC) and, as Birdsall adds, 'generationally, there's more nuance; it is not so narrowly defined as it once was--what queerness can be--as just gay or lesbian.' He offers this statistic while noting Toni Morrison's famous quote upon winning the Nobel Prize for literature about being marginalized; it has become an anthem of sorts, a rally cry, for those otherwise othered and hidden in plain sight. Author John Birdsall at Omnivore Books in San Francisco, June 22. When talking to Birdsall further about how he gathered stories for the book, he admits it was not easy given the amount many of the figures explored had to hide who they really were, therefore leaving very little evidence as to their private lives. 'For me, as a writer and historian, my practice has been using emotion to try to illuminate queer and trans histories that have been obscured," Birdsall said in our recent interview, 'We may have scraps of archival information, but there is so much to fill in,' he added. Unfortunately, things like letters and cards or other memorabilia and souvenirs from meaningful relationships were simply too dangerous to keep for fear of damning consequences. Birdsall tells us that even what we know today of some of James Beard's close connections, for example, are due to an assistant's forethought (or nosiness). In some cases, notes were retrieved from a wastebasket for fear of them being lost forever. To people like Beard---who was so visible and in the public eye--it just wasn't safe to keep anything around that would be considered sentimental. Which made digging for the whisps of memory and experience surrounding the many figures Birdsall explores in the book, all the more impenetrable. He saw it, however, as both a challenge and opportunity. He took the bits and pieces discovered over the last decade and assembled them while further imagining the worlds the figures lived in, and, what those worlds and experiences tasted like, so to speak. From a recent signing in June for Birdsall's new book. Part of his solution was to lean on the emotions he knew must have accentuated real events. For example, Sunday women in apartments in NYC of the 1950s he learned would gather together to listen to Tallulah Bankhead who, as Birdsall described, 'Had the power in her to control her own sexuality and still have a public voice and be a star.' Although there's no record that fully reveals what those gatherings encompassed, Birdsall helps readers wonder on the page about how food must have played a role amidst such powerful moments in time. Friendsgiving, Anyone? Birdsall says, despite how ubiquitous this annual occasion has become, 'Queer people know they really pioneered it. It is taken for granted that we choose our family--even if we cherish and celebrate with our blood families--there's a culture of the chosen family that is really encapsulated there.' For many, at one time, this 'holiday' meant one safe haven when there was no other. So, Birdsall investigates the lives of many in the book while filling in the scenes of places like New York City's Café Nicholson with Edna Lewis; in San Francisco at the Paper Doll Club; in Los Angeles with Harry Baker as he created his bewitching Chiffon cake; or even the author's own home on page 473 of the New York Times Cook Book where Birdsall became enthralled by a golden brioche. Readers journey through the stories on precipices of emotion the figures covered quite likely endured. From deeply satisfying displays of creativity and community around food and taste they built to endless moments of pain suffered under the cloaks of lies thrust upon them. This book, Birdsall believes, creates a foundation for more to come. It's a green light to to sound the alarm. It's a marquee to celebrate the tales of the untold, still sitting in boxes in the attic. With such a revelatory foundation, Birdsall is passing a torch to the next generation to to keep every name in queer food present on our plates, on our restaurant awnings, in our cookbooks, and out of the closet. Signing books on tour, author John Birdsall.
Hindustan Times
20-06-2025
- General
- Hindustan Times
Rude Food by Vir Sanghvi: Insta made me eat it
There are more restaurants in India than ever before. There are more cuisines available than we have ever known. And , inevitably, there are more menu clichés (what we call 'food trends ' when we are being polite) than we have ever seen. Call me a jaded old bore, but these are the current trends/clichés that I hate the most. Dirty Sandwiches There has always been a distinction between the European conception of a sandwich and its American counterpart. In Europe, sandwiches are clever combinations of ingredients that you can enjoy without feeling that a vat of ketchup has fallen on you. The classic American sandwich has usually been a little fatter (the Reuben, the Hero, the hamburger etc) and has required you to open your mouth really wide while simultaneously ensuring that ingredients don't drop out of the sandwich as you are eating it. That's fine with me, but what I object to is the trend to over-sauce sandwiches to create the so-called Dirty Sandwich. This kind of sandwich contains so much ketchup, mayo, melted cheese, hot sauce etc, that it is supposed to make your face dirty from all the sauce that will smear itself around your mouth or drip down to the front of your shirt. We have imported this trend and I really don't see the point. Loaded Fries The French Fry is one of the world's great culinary inventions and its many variations (matchstick fries, steak fries, shoestring fries, triple-cooked chips, etc) are delicious when made fresh with the right kind of potato. So, why do you need to dirty it? It's the same phenomenon as the Dirty Sandwich. They pour melted cheese on the fries or douse them in truffle oil (more about which later) or drown them in some tomato-chilli sauce. I cannot, for the life of me, figure out why they need to do this. Do these people not really like fries? Is that why they have to destroy their natural flavour and texture? Matcha Just as we mindlessly import trends from America, the Americans themselves have long abused Japanese cuisine by plundering its flavours, dishes and ingredients for rubbish variations. One example is matcha, a specific kind of Japanese green tea powder, which has a distinctive flavour (if you use real matcha, which people outside Japan often don't) that I enjoy. But now, bogus matcha is used to flavour everything, partly because the real matcha is expensive and, thanks to massive demand from America, in short supply. You will get matcha versions of all kinds of food and drink now, from martinis to dumplings, and even when the Matcha flavour does not taste obviously fake, I have to say that I am fed up of the matcha overload and the extent to which people use it because it's trendy or they saw it on TikTok. Fermentation and Foraging Oriel Castro, who was head chef at El Bulli, and now owns the three-Michelin-star Disfrutar, held a super class (full disclosure: As Chairman of Culinary Culture I helped organise it) in Delhi last month and demonstrated how he had taken forward the techniques he had created with Ferran Adrià at El Bulli. A fair number of India's great chefs flew in to attend it, and I think all of them had the same thought as me: It is a shame that the advances of El Bulli and Disfrutar have come to be represented by talentless imitators who spherify liquids and put foams on everything. I feel the same way about the Noma legacy. If you talk to René Redzepi or eat at Noma, you realise that his food is about understanding the world around us and enjoying the best that the earth has to offer. But like El Bulli (where Redzepi once worked) Noma has been ill-served by its imitators who think that the food is only about foraging and fermentation. There is nothing I find more annoying than a chef who thinks that if he can pick up some dodgy-tasting leaves in a forest and ferment them for six weeks he can be the next René Redzepi. Cheesecake I love cheesecake, as I have often said on these pages. I am not snobbish about it; I grew up on frozen Birds Eye cheesecake not on some chefy version. But now, as we are overwhelmed by an avalanche of cheesecake, all I can say is: Enough already! My major problem with the cheesecakes I find at most places is that they are not very good. They are usually made by people who have no love of cheesecake but are simply replicating recipes they found on YouTube. Three years ago, they all made Biscoff cheesecake because the internet was full of videos that promoted a Belgian brand of Speculoo biscuits made by a company called Lotus. Because Speculoo is a ridiculous name, the biscuits were called Biscoff (short for 'biscuit with coffee' ) outside Belgium. The Biscoff cheesecake used a Speculoo base and (sometimes) Biscoff paste (a sort of Nutella for biscuit lovers). The people who made the cheesecake focused on the industrial Biscoff flavour rather than the cake. Now, because the internet is full of recipes for Basque cheesecake, the same people have switched to making that. Basque cheesecake is not a traditional recipe, but is simply a cheesecake created by a restaurant in San Sebastián in 1988, which made a normal cheesecake but burnt the top. Nigella Lawson made it famous in 2020/2021 and now, people act like it's the only cheesecake that matters. It's not. And I do wish people would go back to more interesting versions. Truffle oil It does not smell like truffles, but because of its low prices and ubiquity, people have actually begun to think that this is the aroma of truffles, having never smelled the real thing. I don't mind that it's fake. I have no strong views on vanillin, for instance, the bogus vanilla that is usually used in India, because it costs next to nothing. My problem with truffle oil is that it smells disgusting. To be in a restaurant that is serving truffle oil is like encountering a herd of farting goats. If you are unfortunate enough to consume it, the stink will stay with you: You will burp it up for hours afterwards! And yet, all Indian chefs use truffle oil, claiming 'this is what the market demands'. And finally As you can tell from this rant, I have only just hit my stride. Expect another instalment soon! From HT Brunch, June 21, 2025 Follow us on
The Independent
18-06-2025
- The Independent
Humble fish stew showcases the underappreciated cuisine of Spain's Balearic islands
In the shadow of an imposing stone bell tower, market stalls fan out by the dozens from the central plaza of Sineu, Mallorca. Every Wednesday, vendors fill the surrounding streets with produce from the fertile central plain of the Spanish Mediterranean island. Interspersed among the plump tomatoes, leafy chard and bright citrus are more stalls overflowing with handcrafts, textiles, jewelry and more. The scene plays out much like it has every week since at least the early 1200s. Designated a royal market in 1304, it's the only remaining market in Spain's Balearic Islands allowed to sell live rabbits, poultry and farm animals. Naturally, the produce changes with the season, showcasing products that define a cuisine that's little known outside the Balearic Islands. Although the islands are better known for their pristine beaches and sun-drenched cliffs, Jeff Koehler's new book, 'The Spanish Mediterranean Islands Cookbook,' aims to give the food some worthy attention. 'It's only a 30-minute flight from Barcelona,' said Koehler. 'But it's amazing to see that it has its own culinary culture.' Mallorca is the biggest of the Mediterranean chain, which also includes Ibiza, Formentera and Menorca, where Koehler, an American, has lived part time for 15 years. Much of the diet is classic Mediterranean, with lots of olive oil, legumes and fresh vegetables. But Koehler said the islands differ from the rest of the region because they were so isolated. The cuisine developed with few outside influences, with locals relying on heavily on fishing, foraging and preserving to survive the winter. Restriction led to creativity. As an example, he cited the moment in springtime when fava beans are suddenly everywhere in springtime. 'Then you start thinking of five ways of making fava beans because it's what's there now,' he said. 'What starts as this necessity of just survival eventually converts into real gastronomic treats.' Locals may pair favas, or broad beans, with mint, spring onions and sobrassada, a paprika-spiced, uncased pork sausage that's like a spreadable chorizo. Or they add them to a frittata-like Spanish tortilla, or use them with cuttlefish, bacon and onions. The result in each case is a humble yet tasty dish, a combination that is typical of the islands. One of the most representative is caldereta de peix, a simple fish stew that is served over slices of toasted day-old bread. Originally prepared with the worthless bycatch that got caught in fishermen's nets, it features a saffron-scented tomato broth with garlic, onion and white wine. The bold flavor is much more than the sum of its parts, and it exemplifies how leftovers can become a delicious classic. 'First came the need to eat,' Koehler writes. 'Then came the desire to eat well.' Caldereta de peix (Fish stew) From Jeff Koehler's 'The Spanish Mediterranean Islands Cookbook' Time: About an hour, 10 minutes Serves: 4 Ingredients: One 3- to 4-pound whole fish, such as scorpion fish, bream, sea bass or red snapper, or another firm-fleshed variety. Or 1 1/2 pound filets 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 medium yellow onions, finely chopped 1 clove garlic, minced 3 medium tomatoes, halved and grated 1/4 cup dry white wine 8 cups fish stock 1 teaspoon sweet paprika Small pinch of saffron threads, crumbled Very thin slices of day-old country-style bread, cut into 2.5-cm/1-inch-wide strips and lightly toasted, for serving Directions: Cut the fish crosswise into thick steaks. Reserve the heads and tails. Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium. Add the onions and cook until soft, 8–10 minutes. Stir in the garlic and then add the tomatoes. Cook until pulpy and deeper red, about 10 minutes, adding a few tablespoons of water (or stock) from time to time to keep it moist. Add the wine and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in 1 cup of the stock. Use a hand blender to puree the sauce, or transfer it to a blender to puree and return it to the pot. Stir in the paprika and saffron, and season with salt and pepper. Season the fish steaks and reserved heads and tails (if using whole fish) with salt and pepper and add to the pan. Pour over the remaining stock. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Don't let it reach a strong boil, to keep the fish from breaking apart. Remove the pot from the heat. Remove and discard the heads and tails. Cover the pot and let sit for 10 minutes. To serve, put a couple of pieces of toasted bread in each of 4 wide soup bowls. Ladle over the soup with 1 or 2 pieces of fish per bowl.
Associated Press
18-06-2025
- Associated Press
Humble fish stew showcases the underappreciated cuisine of Spain's Balearic islands
In the shadow of an imposing stone bell tower, market stalls fan out by the dozens from the central plaza of Sineu, Mallorca. Every Wednesday, vendors fill the surrounding streets with produce from the fertile central plain of the Spanish Mediterranean island. Interspersed among the plump tomatoes, leafy chard and bright citrus are more stalls overflowing with handcrafts, textiles, jewelry and more. The scene plays out much like it has every week since at least the early 1200s. Designated a royal market in 1304, it's the only remaining market in Spain's Balearic Islands allowed to sell live rabbits, poultry and farm animals. Naturally, the produce changes with the season, showcasing products that define a cuisine that's little known outside the Balearic Islands. Although the islands are better known for their pristine beaches and sun-drenched cliffs, Jeff Koehler's new book, 'The Spanish Mediterranean Islands Cookbook,' aims to give the food some worthy attention. 'It's only a 30-minute flight from Barcelona,' said Koehler. 'But it's amazing to see that it has its own culinary culture.' Mallorca is the biggest of the Mediterranean chain, which also includes Ibiza, Formentera and Menorca, where Koehler, an American, has lived part time for 15 years. Much of the diet is classic Mediterranean, with lots of olive oil, legumes and fresh vegetables. But Koehler said the islands differ from the rest of the region because they were so isolated. The cuisine developed with few outside influences, with locals relying on heavily on fishing, foraging and preserving to survive the winter. Restriction led to creativity. As an example, he cited the moment in springtime when fava beans are suddenly everywhere in springtime. 'Then you start thinking of five ways of making fava beans because it's what's there now,' he said. 'What starts as this necessity of just survival eventually converts into real gastronomic treats.' Locals may pair favas, or broad beans, with mint, spring onions and sobrassada, a paprika-spiced, uncased pork sausage that's like a spreadable chorizo. Or they add them to a frittata-like Spanish tortilla, or use them with cuttlefish, bacon and onions. The result in each case is a humble yet tasty dish, a combination that is typical of the islands. One of the most representative is caldereta de peix, a simple fish stew that is served over slices of toasted day-old bread. Originally prepared with the worthless bycatch that got caught in fishermen's nets, it features a saffron-scented tomato broth with garlic, onion and white wine. The bold flavor is much more than the sum of its parts, and it exemplifies how leftovers can become a delicious classic. 'First came the need to eat,' Koehler writes. 'Then came the desire to eat well.' Caldereta de peix (Fish stew)From Jeff Koehler's 'The Spanish Mediterranean Islands Cookbook' Time: About an hour, 10 minutes Serves: 4 Ingredients:One 3- to 4-pound whole fish, such as scorpion fish, bream, sea bass or red snapper, or another firm-fleshed variety. Or 1 1/2 pound filets 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 medium yellow onions, finely chopped 1 clove garlic, minced 3 medium tomatoes, halved and grated 1/4 cup dry white wine 8 cups fish stock 1 teaspoon sweet paprika Small pinch of saffron threads, crumbled Very thin slices of day-old country-style bread, cut into 2.5-cm/1-inch-wide strips and lightly toasted, for serving Directions:Cut the fish crosswise into thick steaks. Reserve the heads and tails. Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium. Add the onions and cook until soft, 8–10 minutes. Stir in the garlic and then add the tomatoes. Cook until pulpy and deeper red, about 10 minutes, adding a few tablespoons of water (or stock) from time to time to keep it moist. Add the wine and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in 1 cup of the stock. Use a hand blender to puree the sauce, or transfer it to a blender to puree and return it to the pot. Stir in the paprika and saffron, and season with salt and pepper. Season the fish steaks and reserved heads and tails (if using whole fish) with salt and pepper and add to the pan. Pour over the remaining stock. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Don't let it reach a strong boil, to keep the fish from breaking apart. Remove the pot from the heat. Remove and discard the heads and tails. Cover the pot and let sit for 10 minutes. To serve, put a couple of pieces of toasted bread in each of 4 wide soup bowls. Ladle over the soup with 1 or 2 pieces of fish per bowl. EDITOR'S NOTE: Albert Stumm writes about food, travel and wellness. Find his work at
Harpers Bazaar Arabia
09-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Harpers Bazaar Arabia
Meet The Art Foundation Celebrating Lebanese Creativity Through Its Rich Cuisine
The new Em Sherif Art Foundation is celebrating Lebanese art and creativity abroad through the country's rich cuisine Bringing together both outstanding cuisine and inspiring art, Em Sherif is now expanding its celebration of Lebanon's culture beyond the dining table, offering Lebanese creators a platform to showcase their creative talents worldwide with the newly formed Em Sherif Art Foundation. Created by Em Sherif founder and chef Mireille Hayek – along with brother and CEO Dani Chakour, and son and curator Sherif Hayek – the Em Sherif Art Foundation is a non-profit organisation with a mission to nurture and promote Lebanese artists through Em Sherif restaurants around the world. Within these collaborations, this ambitious initiative aims to provide increased visibility for artists, raising awareness for Lebanese art and culture on the international stage. Meaning 'The Mother of Sherif' in Arabic, Mireille Hayek opened her first Em Sherif restaurant in Beirut in 2011, as a contemporary take on traditional Lebanese food and familial hospitality, passed down from generation to generation. The brand has since exploded in popularity, with 24 venues across 12 cities around the world, including Doha, Monaco, London and Dubai. 'The Art Foundation is another meaningful way for us to give back to our beloved Lebanese community,' Mireille Hayek told Bazaar. 'Our passion and mission remain the same; to offer our guests an invigorating and wholesome experience that sparks curiosity and nourishes the heart and soul.' 'Art has always been part of my life,' adds Sherif Hayek. 'I studied it, worked in galleries and began collecting early on. At the same time, I've always been inspired by what my family built with Em Sherif. [This is] the perfect opportunity to bring these two worlds together.' This venture transforms Em Sherif restaurants into cultural hubs where food, design and art blend together. Upon entering, diners are presented with an 'art menu', highlighting the artists on display and their works, allowing both audiences and artists to engage with one another. This strengthens the position of Lebanese creatives within the worldwide art scene, providing much needed exposure. Currently showing at Em Sherif Café in Paris, Ziad Antar is a Beirut-based artist and photographer; the Em Sherif Art Foundation's first exhibitor. Born in 1978, his practice focuses on the material complexity of photography, pushing it beyond its traditionally documentary nature, and interrogating the unpredictability of the image creation process. 'We are steadfast in our commitment to supporting local talent and deeply believe in the extraordinary creativity of our people,' said Mireille Hayek. 'To the wider Em Sherif community, the Art Foundation stands as our enduring promise to celebrate and share the very best of our city and its people. We can't imagine a more beautiful or powerful way to do so.'
