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Times
4 hours ago
- Times
25 of the most stylish Greek beach hotels
Whatever you want from your Greek beach break — mainland or island, shingle or sand, wild shores or neat rows of loungers — a stylish place to stay should be non-negotiable. If you value chic interiors just as much as a lovely sea view, Greece has heaps of designer beachfront hotels among its more mainstream, modest and mass-market accommodation options. That said, style is subjective. I once stayed at a supposedly designer hotel in the Cyclades that was covered in ghastly motifs and mosaics (the owner fancied himself as an artist), but many others are far more successful from a taste perspective. I'm always a fan of bohemian decor that goes big on natural materials, as well as those embracing a minimalist or contemporary aesthetic. Some of my favourite hotels (the Wild in Mykonos is a great example) are kitted out in back-to-basics leather, wood, linen and stone, in colours that complement the surrounding landscape. Taking a different approach is Daios Cove in Crete, which is decorated with several quarries' worth of coloured marble (the main pool's petrol-green marble tiles are particularly striking). Elsewhere, you may find local traditions and culture referenced in hotel architecture, giving you white-painted boxy structures in the Cyclades or Italianate flourishes in Corfu, Cephalonia and other isles once influenced by the Venetian empire. Honouring traditions also helps to keep things authentic: painted shutters and bare stone walls are summer heat-beating adaptations that have been employed since long before the advent of air conditioning. And talking of air conditioning, keeping cool is a priority on a Greek midsummer holiday, especially with the heatwaves that are roasting southern Europe. Extreme conditions can lead to wildfires, such as those that tore through Chios last month and Rhodes in 2023, but there's a reason that summer is peak season. If you're built to withstand high temperatures, it's the liveliest time to visit. And if not? Go later. Things start winding down around October, when conditions are still hot but not quite so punishing. We've selected the best beachfront hotels across Greece's mainland and islands, all of which can be easily accessed by ferry, plane or a combination of both. Some are designer, some are simpler, but whether on mainstream Mykonos and Corfu or the more out-of-the-way Antiparos and the Ionian Riviera, all are among Greece's most visually satisfying places to stay. This article contains affiliate links that can earn us revenue This hidden-away, 40-room east coast hotel is the epitome of Greek chic. Its formula mixes boho elements (clay, wood, stone, plaster, terracotta, thatch) with high-end designer furnishings and a scattering of antiques to create an upgraded memory of the Mykonos that existed before its party scene glow-up. Rustic wood, bamboo and seagrass loungers on the Aegean-facing terrace match the seating at the two chilled-out restaurants (Taverna serves Greek specialities and Mezé focuses on grilled fish, meat and veg). But the Wild's trump card is its secret cove, plus its (new this season) trata fishing boat for excursions to snag your own catch of the day. Bursts of Mykonos Town bling are only half an hour's drive B&B doubles from £247 ( Fly to Mykonos • Read our full review of the Wild Southern Crete, away from the north coast's resorts, is quieter and more authentic, and the 90-minute journey from Heraklion airport is all the more worthwhile if your destination is Numo Ierapetra. This adults-only resort sits on a dark-pebble-and-sand stretch of Mediterranean shore and has 132 rooms, each dressed with wicker, stone and slatted wood. Behind the beach are extensive gardens with two pools (one livelier, one more relaxed), an indoor/outdoor gym and an open-air cinema for moonlit screenings. Ierapetra itself, a ten-minute drive away, is the departure point for day trips by boat to the golden beaches of the castaway Chrysi. Details B&B doubles from £370 ( Fly to Heraklion • Read our full review of Numo Ierapetra Ammos, a characterful 33-room boutique hotel near Chania in northern Crete, balances bags of personality with a sharp focus on design, all for less than £150 a night outside peak season. It's decorated with pieces by Greek artists and independent designers, each one handpicked by the owner to create a space that's eclectic and playful but also incredibly welcoming. The rooftop doubles as a yoga studio and sunset cocktail bar where guests can downward dog or sip drinks to the sound of the waves. For day-trip action, Chania is packed with culture (don't miss the Venetian harbour and its emblematic lighthouse), or hit Balos beach on the Gramvousa peninsula — it's one of Greece's Room-only doubles from £140 ( Fly to Chania On a hillside above a pebbly beach near Plaka in eastern Crete, this 47-suite hotel strikes a balance between relaxed and refined. Beyond its chilled ambience and tasteful, pared-back design, Phaea Blue goes out of its way to celebrate Greek creativity and craftsmanship via collaborations with Cretan artists, artisans and Benaki Museum in Athens. That same dedication to all things local is showcased in the restaurants' Cretan cuisine which, unusually for Greece, has plenty of plant-based choices. Phaea Blue overlooks the uninhabited islets of Spinalonga and Kalydon, both of which can be visited by caique (traditional wooden boat) from the water sports centre's Seven nights' B&B from £1,755pp, including flights and transfers ( If holidays are all about living your best life, Daios Cove delivers. Although it's big, this 284-room east Crete hotel stretches around a sandy cove so it rarely feels crowded, helped by almost a third of the rooms having private pools. Public spaces are wrapped in coloured marble, which is used to great effect at the main pool and in the Crystal Box's backlit bar. Dining and service are top-notch, and the 2,500 sq m guests-only spa must surely be Greece's most comprehensive — check in for vitamin infusions or immune system-boosting Seven nights' half-board from £1,999pp, including transfers ( Fly to Heraklion • Discover our full guide to Crete Santorini's fanciest hotels are strung along the west coast's volcanic caldera, which means that bigger-budget guests rarely head east to the beachier side of the island. Sandblu's mission is to tempt high-rollers down towards the shore, and it does so with larger-than-average rooms, designer decorations and exquisite attention to detail, plus an impressive spa (one of the best-equipped in the Cyclades). OK, so it's not beachfront, but it's a ten-minute walk (or quick dash by buggy) to the resort's beach club and loungers down on the black-sand-and-pebble Kamari. A regular bus service connects Kamari to the capital, Fira, for essential fixes of those caldera B&B doubles from £304 ( Fly to Santorini It's no secret that Santorini suffers from overtourism but you wouldn't know it at this luxury retreat. Istoria, a design-friendly hotel converted from a former stable block, sits beside black-sand Perivolos beach in the island's quieter southeast corner, a world away from the hubbub in the caldera-facing villages. There are only 12 light-filled suites, each with arched windows framing sea or courtyard views, and each one's name means 'story' (as indeed does the Greek word istoria itself) in various Seven nights' B&B from £1,391pp, including flights and transfers ( Tiled rooftops, bougainvillaea-draped terraces and an adults-only atmosphere give Nido a sense of sophisticated charm. A member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, the property comprises Corfiot-style villas in peach and terracotta shades that ascend a forested hillside above a narrow strip of beach, which is just across the road from the hotel. Facilities on site include a spa and fine-dining restaurant, with further distractions and dining to be found at MarBella, the family-friendly sister property next door. You can also make day trips to Corfu Town, half an hour's drive away, to see its impressive Venetian fortifications, take a walking tour or sip cocktails infused with olive Seven nights' B&B from £869pp, including flights ( Paros has long been overlooked in favour of its more famous neighbours, Mykonos and Santorini, but this charming island is having a moment. As a result, there is a growing number of new hotels, including the adults-only Vione Paros, on the east coast less than ten minutes' drive from the pretty town of Naousa. It's a sophisticated sanctuary of 40 elegant sea-view suites and the expansive Dione Spa (named after the mother of Aphrodite), all within ambling distance of chilled-out Damuli B&B doubles from £520 ( Fly to Athens and take the ferry to Paros Livadia beach on the west coast of Antiparos is a sweeping curve of sand backed by dunes that are brightened in season by scented, white-bloomed sea lilies. Set within earshot of the sea is the Rooster, an extraordinary hotel with 17 large villas and suites, each decorated in a rustic-chic style with driftwood four-posters, leather ottomans and velvety ikat-print cushions. A crop-to-kitchen ethos means home-grown produce in the restaurant, plus herbs and other ingredients for cocktails at the sunset-facing bar. Elsewhere on the island, visit Antiparos Town or head to Agios Georgios to gaze across at the temples on the neighbouring, uninhabited Five nights' B&B from £4,300pp, including flights and transfers ( Being close to the capital puts the Saronic island of Poros within easy reach for weekending Athenians (it's an hour by ferry from the port of Piraeus). When they get there, Sirene Blue is the go-to destination. Hidden away among pine trees on the island's rugged south coast, this just-refurbished historic hotel is luxurious yet discreet. The colour scheme for the rooms tastefully echoes the surrounding scenery with its natural woods, Aegean-blue wall tiles and beach sand-coloured fabrics. For cooling off there's the main pool, a beach and an overwater deck, and for culture the neoclassical Poros Town and its archaeological museum are ten minutes away by B&B doubles from £197 ( Fly to Athens Back in the 1970s, Plaka beach on the west coast of Naxos was lonely enough to draw nudists. But this stretch of sand (the island's longest, with calm waters, family-friendly vibes and a sunset-facing aspect) is considerably busier today. About halfway along it (and a 20-minute drive south from Naxos Town) is Naxian on the Beach. This couples-only ten-suite resort embodies traditional Cycladic architecture with its cube-shaped structures finished in bamboo, wood and natural fabrics. Head off site to visit inland villages, Naxos Town's hilltop castle and the Temple of Apollo. Details B&B doubles from £197 ( Fly to Athens, Mykonos or Santorini and take a ferry Samos, barely a mile from the Turkish coast, is an under-the-radar island despite having direct flights with Tui (and Jet2 from next year). This outpost of Casa Cook sits by the southern shore, within walking distance of the taverna-filled port town of Pythagorion. With a bohemian design that borrows from the architecture of the island's red-tiled villages, the 128-room hideaway has an earthy palette throughout and is complemented by a beach club and choice of swim-up or rooftop suites. Pythagorion itself has folklore and archaeology museums, or find additional bustle 20 minutes away in the capital, Seven nights' B&B from £1,077pp, including flights and transfers ( This sprawling villa estate in the south of the island feels worlds apart from the Cephalonia that draws crowds of sun-seeking fans of Captain Corelli's Mandolin. Each of its 12 spacious villas is set among olive groves and gardens, with saltwater pools and sea views towards Zakynthos. A Relais & Châteaux member, it's simply but elegantly designed and finished in a chic, natural palette. There's a restaurant, spa and gym on site, plus a secret cove beneath the cliff. And you could walk the 20 minutes to Spartia beach, where the Waterway taverna is run with good humour by Terpsi, a larger-than-life Greek New Seven nights' B&B from £3,625pp, including flights and transfers ( Koukounaries is the best beach on Skiathos. The long stretch of golden sand is backed by a forest of pines (it's a nature reserve), all of which is overlooked by Elivi's main building from its hilltop perch. This luxury hotel's spacious and modern villas, rooms and suites are spread in clusters over an essentially private 53-hectare wooded peninsula. Here are three more beaches — Big Banana, Little Banana and Ampelakia — which are quieter than Koukounaries, and feature loungers and Seven nights' B&B from £1,143pp, including flights and transfers ( Beachside chic and urban buzz come together at Lango. In Kos Town, it's just across the street from the gently shelving Lambi beach and its cafés, loungers and views across to Bodrum in Turkey. On an island popular for family holidays, Lango finds its USP by being child-free. Stick around for local flavours at Koan Cuisine, its restaurant, and blissful treatments (some using Greek olive oil and wildflowers) at the Seljuk-tiled, Turkish-influenced Idolo Seven nights' B&B from £1,016pp, including flights and transfers ( There's a starkness to the landscape in Folegandros and its neighbouring Cycladic isles that adds distinction to the local architecture. In keeping with the rest of the island, Anemi embraces white sugar-cube structures, which it teams with original art and designer furnishings to create a hotel embodying the best of Cycladic minimalism. The 44-room five-star is a monochrome delight made all the jauntier by details picked out in splashes and accents of buttercup yellow. There are two beaches, Vardia and the portside Chochlidia, within a short walk, or you can hire a boat to discover cliffs, caves and shorelines that can't be reached by land. As the day's heat subsides head to Chora, the main town, for sunset views from the hilltop Panagia church. Details B&B doubles from £149 ( Fly to Santorini and take a ferry Although the buzziest Mykonos beaches are mostly strung along its south coast, westerly Agios Ioannis gives them a decent run for their money. This sheltered bay is the setting for the Coast Bill&Coo, a beachside sibling to Mykonos Town's Bill&Coo, a ten-minute drive away. Of its 25 minimalist suites, some are waterfront, some cliffside, but all have island-studded sea views. Best of all, though, is the preferential access to the onsite Beefbar Mykonos ( an exclusive beach club and restaurant known for its prime cuts and elevated street food. The nearby beaches of Korfos (great for kitesurfing) and the more sheltered, yacht-filled Ornos add to the choice of seaside scenes. Details B&B doubles from £774 ( Fly to Mykonos Sometimes, if you want serious style you have to splash serious cash — and so it is at Porto Zante Villas. On the east coast of Zakynthos, the complex has just nine clifftop villas ranging from one to four bedrooms, each with a pool, making it one of Europe's most exclusive resorts. Each villa features handcrafted Greek and Italian furniture, plus there's a spa, restaurants offering Greek, Mediterranean and Asian cuisine, and water sports including sea cycling. Or you could take a Ceclo electric boat for a gentle potter around the pretty Seven nights' B&B from £8,995pp, including flights, transfers and butler service ( At 14 miles, Monolithi beach in the western Epirus region is one of the longest in Europe. Just beyond its southern tip lies Meraviglia Slow Living, a couples-only retreat with 12 suites (each with its own pool) among Mediterranean gardens filled with olive trees and lavender. It's a low-key, low-impact kind of place with solar power and an organic orchard whose seasonal produce may feature at breakfast. There's also the nearby archaeological site of Nikopolis (a city founded by the Roman emperor Augustus to mark his victory over Antony and Cleopatra) and dreamy views across the sea to Paxos and Room-only doubles from £212 ( Fly to Preveza The three peninsulas (or 'legs') of Halkidiki are famous for their long, mostly sandy beaches. A particularly fine example, complete with the most intense blue waters, sits directly below Cora, halfway down Kassandra, the westernmost leg. Fill your feed with shots from beside the two pools, then turn your lens to the chichi guestrooms dressed in wood, stone and sandy shades, accented with colourful, handcrafted ceramics. Nearby Afitos has a smattering of local tavernas and a stretch of beach just south of town for those who prefer to bare Seven nights' all-inclusive from £1,523pp, including flights and transfers ( • Discover our full guide to Greece If you're a fan of retro style, you'll love Eagles. On Athos, the easternmost and quietest of Halkidiki's 'legs', it was built in the 1970s to a contemporary design inspired by nearby monasteries: all rough-stone walls and galleried terraces dotted with low-slung seating and tasselled Greek cushions. There's a sandy beach, with a water sports centre offering wakeboards, kayaks and SUPs; otherwise, rent a boat or join an excursion and head to the castaway Drenia islets, whose beaches are inhabited only by seabirds and wild B&B doubles from £193 ( Fly to Thessaloniki The in-your-face W brand isn't everyone's cup of ouzo, but there's no denying its commitment to cutting-edge design. One of four high-end hotels comprising the western Peloponnese's Costa Navarino resort, this is the W brand's first Greek property. Style-wise, it goes all-out on natural materials and tones, leaving the sea and sky to add bursts of bright blue. Outside, beyond the spectacular infinity pool, is Parelia beach club, which sits on a 450m stretch of sunset-facing sand. There's loads to do here — tennis, golf, astronomy, wellness, birdwatching, olive harvesting — and an over-12s policy, which maintains a grown-up ambience. Details Seven nights' B&B from £2,385pp, including flights and transfers ( The southern portion of the Peloponnese peninsula mimics Halkidiki with its three fingers of land poking into the Aegean. The central one, Mani, has a rugged interior and a coastline dotted with cute villages such as Gytheio, where you'll find 100 Rizes Seaside Resort. A member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, it's relaxing, refined and refreshingly tasteful, with a design that resembles the local stone-block architecture mixed with neutral decor and contemporary luxuries. Adding to the living-like-a-local air are a spa, two pools, a fine-dining restaurant and direct-access cove. There's also a sandy beach next B&B doubles from £100 ( Fly to Kalamata This hotel in Vouliagmeni, on the Athens Riviera, offers Greek island vibes without leaving the suburbs that stretch southwards from the city. Opened in 1961 (but thoroughly overhauled since), the Four Seasons has 303 rooms, suites and bungalows spread across a 30-hectare peninsula plot that's packed with pine and cypress trees, plus three private beaches connected by a wooden boardwalk. A highlight among the eight places to eat and drink is Avra, whose seasonal cocktail menu focuses on local flavours (right now it's all about orange, pear and pine). Don't miss taking a dip in the brackish Lake Vouliagmeni nearby — or catch a 40-minute cab to the Acropolis, Temple of Zeus and other central Athenian attractions. Details B&B doubles from £608 ( Fly to Athens • Read our full review of Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel
Emirates Woman
2 days ago
- Emirates Woman
No flight, no problem: These 10 UAE spots feel like a mini getaway
Who says you need a boarding pass to feel like you've escaped the city? This summer, Dubai delivers serious vacation feels, no passport required. From breezy beachfront lounges that channel Mykonos charm to lush garden cafés reminiscent of Bali's jungle retreats, the city is brimming with destinations that make you feel like you've travelled far and wide. Whether it's sipping matcha in a Kyoto-style teahouse, indulging in a long lunch under olive trees, or wandering through art-filled courtyards, Dubai's homegrown gems offer all the wanderlust without the jet lag. As the heat climbs and travel plans stall, it's the perfect time to explore your own city with fresh eyes. Think floating breakfasts by the pool, hammam rituals straight out of Istanbul, and desert hideaways that feel a world away from the skyline. Whether you're after romance, recharge or Riviera flair, these local escapes are curated to trick your senses into thinking you've gone abroad, even if you're only minutes from home. So, scroll through our guide, as these gems in Dubai instantly feel like you're on a vacation without travelling. SĀN Beach, The Palm – Indonesia Think white-washed interiors, beachfront cabanas, and jungle foliage for a touch of Uluwatu. Designed with bamboo accents, rattan cabanas, lush greenery, and palm-fringed sands, this beach club channels the laid-back charm of Bali's Uluwatu coast. By day, chill on swing seats or poolside daybeds with ocean breezes and Indonesian beats; by night, the vibe elevates with live DJs, tropical cocktails, and candlelit dinners under the stars. Expect a seamless blend of barefoot glamour and Balinese hospitality, your personal passport to paradise. For more information visit OPA, Fairmont Dubai – Greece Step into the heart of the Cyclades without leaving Sheikh Zayed Road. OPA brings Mykonos to life with whitewashed interiors, bursts of bougainvillea, and the unmistakable charm of Greek hospitality. Expect plate smashing, live Zorba dancing, and a menu that transports you straight to a sun-drenched taverna, think grilled octopus, saganaki, and the freshest seafood served with a theatrical flair. For more information visit Anantara Santorini, Abu Dhabi – Greece Bringing the whitewashed elegance of the Greek isles to the UAE, Anantara Santorini is a boutique, adults-only retreat set along the quiet Ghantoot coastline. With just 22 suites, Cycladic-inspired architecture, infinity pools overlooking the Gulf, and Mediterranean fine dining, it offers all the magic of Santorini, minus the plane ride. It's the perfect spot for a serene, sun-drenched escape just an hour from Dubai. For more information visit Kokoro – Japan This one-of-a-kind hidden gem, is the first Handroll sushi bar in Dubai. Known for its delectable array of dishes, guests 'break the rules of sushi', every bite of the Kokoro menu offers a sense of culinary excellence. Using only the freshest fish, harvested seaweed, delectable house-made sauces, and signature warm rice, Kokoro creates an unforgettable dining experience. Located in the heart of Alserkal Avenue, this is definitely one concept to try, paying homage to Japan's foodie elements. For more information visit @ Pai Thai, Jumeirah Al Qasr – Thailand Tucked along the serene canals of Madinat Jumeirah, Pai Thai delivers an authentic slice of Thailand complete with a traditional abra ride to get there. Lush greenery, lantern-lit terraces, and bold, aromatic dishes create a transportive dining experience that feels like a riverside escape in Bangkok. From tangy Tom Yum to velvety green curry, every plate bursts with fresh herbs, spice, and soul, making it one of Dubai's most enchanting culinary journeys. For more information visit Anantara Mina Al Arab – Maldives Home to the UAE's first overwater villas, this resort blends Maldivian elegance with Arabian nature. Spot flamingos from your private deck, kayak through mangroves, or indulge in a Thai-inspired spa treatment—all with the Hajar Mountains as your backdrop. Craving a slice of the Maldives without the long-haul flight? Anantara Mina Al Arab delivers just that, think overwater villas, turquoise lagoons, and barefoot luxury, all just an hour from Dubai. Nestled among mangroves with ocean views, it's a serene escape made for slow mornings, sunset dips, and spa rituals that transport you far from city life. For more information visit Talise Ottoman Spa, Jumeirah Zabeel Saray – Turkey View this post on Instagram A post shared by Talise (@talisespa) Tucked within the opulent Jumeirah Zabeel Saray, Talise Ottoman Spa is a palatial Turkish-style escape that instantly transports you to the heart of old Istanbul. With grand marble hammams, mosaic-tiled walls, and the scent of rose and oud in the air, this 8,000-square-metre sanctuary offers the ultimate indulgence. The signature Royal Ottoman Hammam treatment, complete with foam massages and warm stone rituals feels like a centuries-old tradition reimagined for modern-day wellness. For more information visit La Cantine Beach – France A Parisian-meets-Mediterranean haven, La Cantine Beach is a chic lifestyle destination combining Mediterranean dining with a holistic, wellness-focused experience. Located on a stunning beachfront, it offers guests an unparalleled escape where chic sophistication meets active living. For more information visit Playa Pacha, FIVE Luxe – Spain Missing Ibiza? Here you can i ndulge in Mediterranean delights and exquisite sips, while enjoying a vibrant lineup of live entertainment orchestrated by the pioneer of Ibiza's dance and cultural movement featuring chart-topping international DJs. 'Come Play' like never before at this ultra-luxe venue, framed by its sprawling private beach with uninterrupted sweeping sea-views and glittering sights of the Arabian Gulf and Palm Jumeirah For more information visit The Hero Buys for your 'In Dubai' vacation – For more on luxury lifestyle, news, fashion and beauty follow Emirates Woman on Facebook and Instagram Images: Supplied & Feature Image: Pinterest
Times
3 days ago
- Times
Cali Mykonos hotel review: one of the most luxurious hotels in the Cyclades
Clustered together like a hilltop village, the luxurious suites and villas that make up Cali Mykonos are built in Cycladic style using bare stone and white-painted architecture, along with what must be an entire quarry's output of marble. Weaving it all together is an exquisite sense of detail, from striking guest room interiors to super-attentive service. But the most impressive element is the pool, which at 130m long is by far the largest on the island and hangs above the sea and a private cove. Stays cost above average for Mykonos but the vibe, one of sophistication rather than excess, is hard to match. This article contains affiliate links, which may earn us revenue Score 10/10Each of the 40 suites and villas has exterior space, an open-air shower and at least partial sea views, plus a green roof with pollinator-friendly plantings. Clearly designed on a nothing-but-the-best budget, even the entry-level Deluxe Suites are a generous 45 sq m, stretching to almost the same again outside (higher categories have private pools). Every detail is top-notch: cut-stone floors, stained oak doors, incredibly comfortable Coco-Mat mattresses, and oversized sofas and loungers from STFN Labs, a well-known Athenian designer. Equally beautiful are the rain-shower-equipped bathrooms wrapped in marble, and the views of the sea and sculptural rocky surrounds framed by deep-set picture windows. Score 9/10Breakfast — served à la carte with the morning sun glinting off the sea — offers choices of avocado toast, shakshuka, omelette or vegan breakfast wrap, plus strapatsada (scrambled eggs with feta) for local flavour. Daytime appetites are satisfied by sushi rolls, watermelon salad, souvlaki, calamari, dips and cheeseburgers (plus vegan options) enjoyed either poolside or in an open-air lounge, sheltered from wind and sun. Highlights of the drinks menu include quality Greek wines by the glass, or signature cocktails such as the mastiha-based Polka Dot. Among standouts from the dinner menu's land, sea and vegetarian sections are seafood risotto and slow-roast lamb, all at reasonable-for-Mykonos prices. Further choice comes via the Lounge for sushi and staggering sea views (evening only). • Santorini v Mykonos: which is better?• More great hotels in Mykonos Score 9/10Cali's showpiece saltwater pool is an absolute one-of-a-kind stunner. At 130m long, it's the largest in Mykonos and gives the illusion of merging with the bay: an infinity pool indeed. Below it lies a gravelly cove flanked by the hillside's sculptural rocks that partially shelter it from persistent breezes. Two Axopar 37 speed boats float beside the adjacent pontoon, ready to whisk guests on island tours or to the south coast's beach clubs. Those into fitness will appreciate the gym's extensive equipment and there are classes in yoga, reformer Pilates and personal training available at an additional cost. There's no spa, but treatments can be arranged in-suite. Score 9/10While the east coast, far from Mykonos Town, was once the unfashionable side of the island, its chilled-out vibes are now a valued commodity. Cali sits above the sea here, looking out towards Tragonisi islet, whose form resembles a slumbering dragon. Sandy Kalafatis beach is at the bottom of the hill, with smaller Agia Anna beach (home to see-and-be-seen Spilia restaurant) just beyond. Along with Elia, these nearby shores can be accessed by complimentary shuttle, which also runs a several-times-a-day service into town (a 25-minute drive away). Airport transfers take about 20 minutes, depending on traffic. Price B&B doubles from £743Restaurant mains from £14Family-friendly YAccessible Y James Litston was a guest of Cali Mykonos ( • What to do in Mykonos• Best places in Greece for couples
Telegraph
7 days ago
- Telegraph
The unspoilt Greek island just 30 minutes from hellish Mykonos
As I relaxed on the golden sands of Agathopes beach, contentedly watching my two young daughters collect shells, it crossed my mind that Greece's overtourism crisis might be overblown. Yes, it was a weekday in late May rather than the height of summer, but the sun was shining, we were on one of the most popular beaches on the lovely island of Syros, and we had the whole place to ourselves. Syros isn't some far-flung outpost, either. It has its own airport. It's only two hours by ferry from Athens, where it's standing-room-only on the winding streets of the Plaka neighbourhood, and atop the Acropolis. Mykonos – that byword for the perils of mass tourism – is even closer, with the ferry taking just 30 minutes. Yet somehow it still flies relatively under the radar. It wasn't always so. Rewind a century or two and this was perhaps the most important spot in the Cyclades. During the Greek War of Independence in the 1820s, Syros adopted a policy of neutrality, sparking a massive wave of migration to the island. Scores of merchants and shipbuilders set up shop in its biggest port, Ermoupoli, triggering a golden age that lasted until the 20th century. While its influence has waned, Ermoupoli remains the administrative capital of the region, and still houses the hulking Neorion shipyard. The civil service and the docks act as a sort of shield against overtourism. As the economy is not overreliant on sunseekers, there's less of an incentive to chase them. It can pick and choose, targeting the upper end of the market. Only smaller cruise ships are allowed, with just eight scheduled to visit during August (Santorini, on the other hand, will welcome precisely 96). There are no large holiday resorts or hotel chains – but lots of splendid villas. Furthermore, the airport's runway isn't long enough for international flights. The tourists who do arrive, therefore, are either Greeks or discerning Western Europeans who are turned off by the prospect of sharing an island with hordes of self-obsessed Instagrammers, and not deterred by a little extra effort. Or a lot of extra effort, when you have a one-year-old and a four-year-old in tow. Because the only thing more stressful than trying to keep two young children happy on a cramped Ryanair flight is bolting on a one-hour transfer to a hectic ferry port, a two-hour boat ride, and 20 sweaty minutes spent fitting two unfamiliar child seats into the back of a Fiat Panda. Fortunately, we had a shining prize waiting for us in the shape of Villa Georgios, on the southwestern corner of Syros. It's a villain's lair of a holiday home, gazing down on the island with impunity from its hilltop eyrie, yet almost invisible, such is its sympathetic design (sky-blue paint job, immaculately crafted dry stone walls, and use of granite, timber and bamboo to blend perfectly with the rugged backdrop). Owner Georgios Tsiogkas told me it was built, along with a sister property next door, back in 2012, at the height of the Greek financial crisis, and recalled with pride how his project helped keep many local businesses afloat. He also spoke of the island's subtle charms and big soul: 'Syros isn't loud in its beauty; it reveals itself slowly, deeply. That's what makes it special.' The luxury trappings were all present and correct. Infinity pool. Concierge service. Love Island -style firepit. More plush outdoor seating areas than seems strictly necessary. But it is also the owner's home from home, not just a holiday apartment, so it has plenty of character and personal touches. Best of all is the view, one to thrill even the most jaded soul: a glittering bay, scattered with yachts – and what seems like the entire Cyclades archipelago. Incredibly, you can spy 11 other islands for your poolside sunlounger: (in order) Naxos, Paros, Antiparos, Ios, Milos, Kimolos, Sifnos, Serifos and Kithnos, plus – on the clearest days, Georgios insisted – the outline of Santorini, 75 miles to the south. It's the sort of luxury digs one expects to find on neighbouring Mykonos, not here. Yet it is actually one of nine properties on Syros offered by high-end French firm Le Collectionist, all dotted around this corner of the island. Max Aniort, the company's CEO, explained that it had honed in on the island as part of an 'ongoing quest to discover unexplored destinations that offer authentic experiences.' I spotted other sprawling villas being built too, clear signs of a desire to target the top end of the market. While our villa was opulent, the rest of the island is classic Greece. Little is done in a hurry – least of all by the ponderous local driver we saw at the wheel of a battered old car without a rear windscreen. Figs grow wild on the roadside, providing deep green contrasts to the flashes of pink oleander. We saw locals gossiping in rustic tavernas, and gaggles of schoolchildren meandering home from class. Our days followed that simple Greek island holiday formula. A morning on a beach, a long lunch in a taverna, some half-hearted suggestions – hastily retracted – that maybe we ought to do something ('that church we saw on the ferry coming in looked lovely…'; 'there's a Textile Museum on TripAdvisor that's highly rated…'), before settling for another afternoon by the pool pondering whether Mythos or Mamos is the superior beer. We rotated between three nearby beaches: Kini, Galissas and Agathopes, all sandy, very pretty, and with shallow water perfect for children. Galissas, hemmed in by hills, with a tiny chapel perched on one headland, has the most dramatic setting, but Kini, attached to a pleasant little village and with a clutch of surprisingly good tavernas, was our favourite. Its swankiest dining option is Allou Yialou, but we preferred Dyo Tzitzikia Sta Armyrikia next door, where a family-sized feast of Greek salad, anchovies, generous bowls of tzatziki and fava, plus a delicious, doorstop-sized zucchini pie (plus drinks) came to less than £40 – only enough for a couple of cocktails in Mykonos. Though it lacks ancient sites, Syros does recompense those who want to tear themselves from this lazy routine. I did my best to forge one of my four-year-old's first memories by taking her for a magical little hike, through butterfly-dusted fields and down steep slopes to the chapel of Agios Stefanos. It was built inside a sea cave by a fisherman to thank God after he survived – so the story goes – a tussle with a giant octopus. My daughter was rewarded for her own efforts with a dusty visitor book to sign and a noisy bell to ring. Ano Syros, a hilltop medieval settlement above Ermopouli, is another must-see. It's the very definition of a classic Greek island village: thousands of lung-busting steps, snoozing cats at every turn, a score of cute cafés, picture-perfect plane trees and explosions of bougainvillea, all crowned by a glorious church (Agios Georgios). It would be crawling with selfie-snapping tourists if it were on Mykonos, but on our Tuesday lunchtime visit we barely saw a soul and found only one restaurant open – fortunately an excellent one, Maison De Μεζέ, whose Greek salad was so good we immediately ordered another. Boat trips with local firm Syros Quest open up the string of deserted beaches scattered around the island's northern edges; the uninhabited island of Didymi, home to a working lighthouse built in 1834; and snorkelling spots including the shipwreck of the passenger ferry Lyktos 1. Best of all is Ermoupouli itself. That aforementioned golden age bestowed upon the town a remarkable architectural heritage. The streets are paved with dazzling white marble. There are dozens of neoclassical mansions – once home to 19th-century entrepreneurs – to admire. The magnificent Apollon Theater, a miniature version of La Scala in Milan, still hosts opera and can be toured for a few euros. The church of Agios Nikolaos, the blue dome of which we spotted from the ferry, is another ornate treasure. 'It's like being back in 1880,' a woman from Athens, visiting for an architecture festival, told me as we both gazed at the imposing town hall. 'There's nothing like this anywhere else in the Cyclades.' And no fast-food restaurants or tacky tourist shops to spoil the illusion. Back on Agathopes beach, we were finally joined by other sunseekers – not tourists, but a local lady with her toddler. 'It's wonderful at this time of year, nice and warm but with no sunloungers on the sand,' she said. 'Things won't be so great in a few weeks when that place opens for the summer.' She gestured to Ono, a swanky-looking bar and restaurant at one end of the beach, where a few workers were gussying up the terraces and dusting off the cocktail menus. Nevertheless, she conceded, Syros is 'definitely not Mykonos'. It certainly isn't. Though there are more beautiful Greek islands, this is an authentic, lived-in destination. And even with a few places like Ono, it seems to be finding a good balance. It's a 'Goldilocks' Greek island, not harking back to any pre-mass tourism era, but certainly a time before overtourism. Not too sleepy, not too busy. Just right. How to do it One-week stays at Villa Georgios (sleeps 10) start at £10,075. Le Collectionist offers eight other properties on Syros, including Villa Ilektra, next door. Syros is served by daily ferries from both Athens (from two hours) and Mykonos (from 30 minutes). See
The National
7 days ago
- The National
A summer of fine dining and rugged beaches in Mykonos
Famous for its windmills, vibrant nightlife and whitewashed charm, Mykonos is a seductive blend of upscale luxury and rugged beaches. This is an island where it is entirely possible to arrive by helicopter, go to beach clubs or shop at high-end stores in the morning, and visit ancient ruins and cites of great historic significance in the afternoon. Heading to Mykonos may feel of the moment, but in truth, people have been flocking to the Aegean island for centuries. First home to the Ionians – one of the four main Ancient Greek tribes – it has been inhabited since about the 11th century BC, and due to its position, has been invaded by the Romans and the Byzantines, and was ravaged by the Catalans in the late 13th century. It has also been ruled by both the Venetians and later the Ottomans. More recently, it became something of a retreat for artists and bohemians in the 1930s. By the 1960s, it was a favourite of European elite looking to let down their hair amid the picturesque cobbled streets and turquoise blue bays. After Santorini, Mykonos is Greece's second most popular spot. Yet this is not a land of package tours, but rather where the well-heeled go to unwind, and embrace the rich culture and stunning landscapes via a generous helping of top-notch restaurants, five-star hotels and Ibiza-style beach clubs. Where to stay The island prides itself on its upscale feel, with a plethora of high-end hotels on hand. One of the newest, and the only five-star destination within Mykonos Town (also known as Chora, the Greek word for town, and more commonly referred to as the Old Town thanks to its historic charm), and it's a short stroll from its more traditional corner. Slightly further out, there is five-star Santa Marina, a Luxury Collection Resort, which has its own private beach close to Ornos beach. Overlooking the same bay is Once in Mykonos, an adults-only hotel that has swim-up rooms and floating sun beds for ultimate post-party recovery. Cali Mykonos, meanwhile, is removed from the bustle of town, at the secluded beach of Kalafati. Boasting its own beach, it has a private helipad, plus yacht charters perfect for island hopping between nearby Delos and Naxos. Where to eat Ranging from street-side places selling famous Greek gyros – seasoned meat wrapped in pita bread – to upscale eateries, Mykonos is better known for its foodie scene. La Petite Maison opened in 2024 at Anandes Hotel, serving its sharing-style French cuisine at its poolside venue. Menu highlights include marinated lamb cutlets with olive, aubergine caviar and pine nuts, and burrata with cherry tomatoes and basil. A short walk away is Matsuhisa Mykonos, by chef Nobu Matsuhisa. The first of his four Greek outposts, the restaurant celebrates its 25th anniversary this year. Serving favourites such as rock shrimp salad, yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno, miso-marinated black cod and tuna tacos, in-house DJ Arman Nafeei ensures there are tunes to accompany your poolside dinner. Yevo, by chef Aggelos Bakopoulos, is at Bill&Coo Mykonos, a five-star hotel, located a three-minute walk from town. Specialising in farm-to-table ingredients, it offers tasting menus of three, five or seven courses, which include dishes such as red shrimp with pistachio, arugula and shallots, or quail with beetroot, kumquats and spices. In the Old Town, there is Noema Bar and Restaurant, hidden away in a courtyard. Focused on contemporary Greek cuisine, this open-air gem offers dishes such as baby plum tomatoes with home-made unsalted cheese and thyme oil, or slow-roast dolmades, stuffed with beef and rice, and served with Greek yoghurt lemon sauce. Things to do Mykonos is a place to meander and soak in the atmosphere – take joy in getting happily lost in the maze of winding alleyways. The main plaza, for example, has a bust commemorating the Greek heiress Manto Mavrogenous, who during the Greek War of Independence in the 1800s, helped Aegean islanders fight off pirates and then Ottoman rule by funding sailors and ships from her own pocket. Take time to visit some of the 16 windmills on the island, some of which date back to the 16th century, built by then-ruling Venetians to mill wheat shipped in from Syria and the Anatolian tablelands. Seven sit above the bustling chora and are a famous addition to the skyline. All of them were built facing north, to exploit the famous "meltemi" wind that blows across the island, giving Mykonos the nickname of "the island of the winds". Another throwback to Venetian rule is "Little Venice" – a parade of handsome, balconied buildings that reach down into the sea – named for its resemblance to the Italy city. Its Greek name is Alefkandra, although its nickname suffices when asking directions. The now-ruined Panagia Paraportiani castle, also known as the Venetian Castle, once played an important role in safeguarding the island. Exploring the island is a must – not only are there other ruins to explore, such as Castle Panigirakis at Ano Mera – there are plenty of beaches to enjoy. Thanks to the hilly topography, a car or quad bike is the best, and safest, way to get around. A short boat journey away is the island of Delos, which has an abundance of ancient Greek ruins. A Unesco World Heritage Site, this is where the Titan goddess Leto is said to have given birth to the twins Apollo and Artemis of Greek mythology. The best beaches and beach clubs For beaches, the island has a wealth of different experiences on offer. Glyfadi beach, for example, is popular with locals and families. And those looking to make the most of the island's wind should head to Kalafati beach in the south, which is full of windsurfers. For a more private day, head east at either Kato Tigani beach or Pano Tigani beaches, which are rocky and don't have any sun loungers or restaurants. If you are the type who enjoys packing a picnic and heading off the beaten track, then these are for you. Foodies should look up Ornos beach, in the south west, which is packed with restaurants such as Buddha Bar, BeefBar and home-grown favourite Apaggio, while Psarou Beach in the south is home to yachts and swanky bars. Its helipad gives an indication of the wealth of the clientele it attracts. Nammos Village is a short stroll away and filled with stores such as Loro Piana, Dior, Gucci and Chanel. Picture-postcard lovely, this is where the well-heeled hang out. Paradise Beach is where lazy days slide into late night parties. Situated on the south coast of the island, it has Paradise Beach Club and Tropicana that draw international DJs each summer. Next door is Super Paradise Beach, home to the beach club JackieO', named for Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, whose visit to the island in the 1960s helped put it on the map. An open-door policy creates a fun atmosphere. Paraga beach meanwhile, has a more boho-chic vibe. The southernmost beach on the island, it has laid back venues such as SantAnna or Kalua, with cabanas overlooking the neighbouring islands of Delos, Paros and Naxos. A favourite with locals and visitors alike since 2010, Alemagou on Ftelia beach provides excellent food and laid-back beach access in a small but lovely bay that is filled with boho families by day, and free-spirited party goers by night.
