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Fashion Value Chain

Scope of Research and Innovation in Handloom Textiles

Dr. V. Ramesh Babu, Professor and Head, Department of Textile Technology, Kumaraguru College of Technology, Coimbatore Abstract The aim of this paper is to explore the scope of Research and Innovation in Handloom Textiles by studying the History of Handloom, Handloom Industry in India, SWOT of Handloom Industry, Handloom clusters in India, Types of Handlooms and Innovation, Handloom startups, Schemes for handlooms and Boosting the handloom sector in India. History of Handloom​ Figure 1: History of Handlooms Figure 1 shows India has a 5000-year-old Traditional Handloom background, and even in the Vedic period, there is are lot of evidence of the usage of fabrics. In the 2nd Century BC, the literature shows the production of silk and cotton cultivation and fabrics made from it. The East India Company invaded India in the 17th Century for the purchase of Muslin and Jute fabrics for their socking due to rapid industrialisation in Europe. At present, India has an 80% share in the world handloom, which shows its potential and lots of scope to explore the research and innovations in the field of Handloom. Handloom Industry in India​ Figure 2: Handloom Industry in India Figure 2 shows the features of the Handloom Industry in India, which has a long traditional background spread across the nation of richness and diversity in nature. A recent statistic shows that around 4.3 million people are involved in the Handloom Industry, and apart from agriculture, the Textile Industry is the largest employment provider. A variety of Designs produced in the various clusters of India with its unique Finesse. Present Handloom Industry focusing on the Fusion of old traditional design and manufacturing skills and talents into New ideas and Technological developments. With the above capabilities, the Indian Handloom Industry has a potential of USD 350 million export business. SWOT of Handloom Industry​ Strength 1/4 th of the world's cotton cultivation happens in India. Handloom products cannot be produced or replicated by Power looms. Skilled/Semi-Skilled and Trainee workforces are deployed in the Handloom sector. Product diversification through clusters. No demand for energy. The cost of products is affordable. Geographical Identifications/IPR and Copyrights of Designs. Weakness Inadequate and a lack of qualitative raw material sources. Lack of Marketing Strategies Poor quality Lack of Innovation in the processes. Political systems Lack of a Code of ethics and Mode of operations. Lack of Integrated Information Technology systems. Opportunities Domestic and Export Markets Government Polices NABARD Fund Banks for Raw material and Designs. Supporting Body WSC, IIHT, NHDC, Textile committee and HEPC etc., Cluster Development Program Welfare schemes for weavers New Textile policy and Handloom Reservation ACT Threats Migration of workers Imitation of products Import of goods Less handloom cloth consumption per person Impact of Liberalization and Globalization. Poor level of cohesion among clusters Handloom Clusters in India Figure 3 shows the Indian Handloom clusters and almost every state has unique products manufactured with tradition and their own skills and design talents. Few are stated below such as Kancheepuram sarees in Tamil Nadu, Balrampuram sarees in Kerala, Ilkal sarees in Karnataka, Pochampalli sarees in Andhra, Ikat sarees in Odisha, Kosa silks in Chhattisgarh, Tussar silk in Jharkand, Jamdani sarees in West Bengal, Pachra sarees in Tirupura, Puanchei in Mizoram, Phanek in Manipura, Aptani in Arunachal Pradesh, Naga Shawls id Nagaland, Muga Silks in Assam, Bhagalpur silk is Bihar, Banarsi sarees in Uttar Pradesh, Lohi shawls in Uttarakand, Kullu Shawls in Himachal Pradesh, Pashmina Shawls in Jammu and Kashmir, Bedsheets in Haryana, Kota sarees in Rajasthan, Chanderi sarees in Madhya Pradesh and Kutch Shawls in Gujarat. Figure 3: Handloom Clusters Types of Handlooms and Innovation Primitive or Vertical Loom Pit Loom: A) Throw Shuttle B) Fly Shuttle. Frame Loom: A) Throw Shuttle B) Fly Shuttle. Chittaranjan Loom Hattersley Loom Innovative Looms Innovation in Handlooms Extra- Weft Insertion for Handloom Design Conventionally, the task of the insertion of weft threads needed to make a variety of designs is done manually by tying knots, which is cumbersome and time-consuming. The thread is also wasted in connecting one motif to another. Deepak's innovative device makes designs in one-third of the time required by the traditional way of making designs. (Fig.4) The device consists of three components: base frame, magnet bearing shaft and a specially designed bobbin. These components can be fitted to any handloom Jacquard machine. The attachment facilitates the Jacquard loom to perform automatic selection and lifting of warp threads for design making. Figure 4: Extra-Weft Insertion for Handloom Design Bi-Fab Handloom Traditionally, the same big loom is used to produce both narrow and wide fabrics. Sadly, not much has been done for reducing the drudgery and fatigue of the weaver by using appropriate technology in the sector and whatever new has been done in this regard, has not become popular among the weavers due to various reasons. Many a times, the new technology developed for handloom is not user-friendly and hence not accepted by the weaver. (Fig.5) Figure 5. Bi-Fab Hand Loom Bi-Fab Loom simultaneously weaves narrow width fabrics like stoles, napkins, and mats leading to efficient and increased production capacity from the handloom weaver. It helps reduce the laborious nature of work and improve labour productivity by doubling production capacity. The edges achieved are neat with complete selvedges on both sides. Handloom Startups The new trend in startups in handlooms sector is most promising in reforming the handloom sector and most of the young entrepreneur coming to the traditional handloom startups which creating the new markets and demands for the handloom products all over the world. The following are the features of handloom startups. Unique Design-Not replicate by Power Loom Low Capital intensive Minimal Power Eco-Friendly Manufacturing Flexible and Versatile Skill-Transform-Generations Make in India Skill India E-Commerce Social-Media Integrating Clusters Consolidation of Handloom ECO System Ethicus Brand Karagiri Inde' Loom Schemes for Handloom Comprehensive Handloom Cluster Development Scheme Comprehensive Handlooms Development Scheme Revival, Reform and Restructuring Package Yarn Supply Scheme North Eastern Region Textile Promotion Scheme Cluster Development Project in NER Technological Upgradation of Handlooms in NER Market Promotion of Textiles and Handloom Products in NER Handlooms Weavers Comprehensive Welfare Scheme Mahatma Gandhi Bunkar Bima Yojana Health Insurance Scheme Enforcement Wing Central assistance for Implementation of the Handlooms (Reservation of the Articles for Production) Act 1985 Boosting the Handloom Sector Digitalization of the Handloom Industry in India MoUs with e-commerce retailers Patenting designs/varieties Infrastructure and Investment Design improvements Free export/import trade – opportunity Enhancement of Value Conclusion The paper conclude that the Indian Handloom Industry has lots of scope in research and innovation and the extra weft insertion device, Bi-Fab looms are sort of developments in Technological aspects of handloom whereas the Startups in the Handlooms such as Ethicus Brand, Karagiri and Inde' Loom etc., set a new trend in the Indian Handloom Industry to reform and re innovate the present industry to boost the Indian handloom sector. 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