7 days ago
28 of the best places for an autumn city break
Autumn has plenty going for it in the northern hemisphere. Leaves turn wondrous colours as mushrooms, nuts and truffles lend depth and character to restaurant menus. Wines are harvested, cakes begin to be served in cosy cafés and opera houses commence new seasons. Festivals seem to be everywhere, while hotel prices often reach off-season lows in November, meaning more luxury for your hard-pressed pound. There's also plenty of flexibility — although some cities, such as Seville and Marrakesh, remain agreeably warm, others, including Krakow and Edinburgh, become snugglier and even more romantic. Here are our favourite places for an autumnal escape.
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Morocco cools down in autumn, with summer's high 30s giving way to a more pleasant 22C in October or 21C during November. That's perfect for strolling the Majorelle Garden's colossal cacti, for watching snake charmers perform at dusk on Djemaa el-Fna, the focal main square in Marrakesh, or for wandering the shopping souks past carpets, slippers and silverware. On food stalls, look out for newly ripe pomegranates — with juice carts offering freshly squeezed versions rich in antioxidants. There's one near upmarket Riad Sakkan, a good place to base yourself thanks to its rooftop restaurant, heated pool and boutique suites.
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Numerous harvests make Umbria, Italy's 'green heart', thrum with autumnal activity: wines, olives, saffron, truffles, chestnuts, mushrooms and more. Staying in elegant Perugia, the region's capital and a city that gradually winds upwards to its palatial Sina Brufani hotel, it's possible to arrange tasting-tour day trips or simply to browse regular farmers' markets. Chocolate is another reason to visit now: not only is Perugia home to the Baci-making Perugina firm, but it hosts the Eurochocolate festival's tastings and cooking classes annually in late October or November.
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Autumn in Paris is all about chocolate, courtesy of the world's biggest bean feast: the Salon du Chocolat trade fair, which takes place at the very end of October. And if you can't make it to the salon, book yourself into the cute Hôtel du Petit Moulin in the Marais and create your own tour of the city's best chocolatiers. Patrick Roger, Jacques Genin and Alain Ducasse all have boutiques nearby. Finish by scoffing your purchases amid the falling leaves in the Jardin des Tuileries.
• Best hotels in Paris• Read our full review of Hôtel du Petit Moulin
More than 140 years since its first stones were laid, Gaudí's famous church, the Sagrada Familia, is nearing completion. Two more of its towers are done, leaving only the fifth unfinished and due to be finalised in 2026, as you'll see from the rooftop bar at the Sercotel Rosellon. Then embark on an autumn feast of Barcelona's exotic seasonal fruits. Book into the swanky art nouveau Hotel España, next to Las Ramblas, and just round the corner the Boqueria market will be brimming with pomegranates, quinces, persimmons and prickly pears.
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Admittedly, the 870m (2,854ft) Uetliberg is no match for the Alpine peaks further south in Switzerland. But it's only four miles from the centre of Zurich, and its summit is served by its own railway, the S10. After the ascent, you'll get a jaw-slackening view that mixes autumn foliage and distant snow — particularly popular in November when it pokes above the blanket of cloud that often covers the city. For quick access to the trains, stay at the eclectic, colourfully decorated 25hours Hotel on Langstrasse. Then combine with the super-cool Museum of Design and some old-town coffeehouse chat at Café Henrici for a seductive mix of town and country.
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Autumn is a great time to visit Washington DC, the political heart of the United States, with colour peaking in the National Arboretum. Book the crisp, contemporary CitizenM hotel and you'll also be close to the (free) National Gallery. Nearby, guided tours of the Capitol building are also free.
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Come autumn, Madrid warms itself up with hearty stews and cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig). Also on the menu: the Prado's breathtaking collection of paintings by El Greco, Velázquez and Goya, and a day's hiking in the Sierra de Guadarrama National Park. The park's waterfalls, pine forests and craggy peaks are only an hour's drive from the city centre. One Shot Fortuny is a chic, modern hotel away from the most touristy areas, but with restaurants and museums within easy walking distance.
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The Black Forest marches right to the edge of Freiburg, so you don't have to go far to find its blazing autumn foliage. Take a short walk up the Schlossberg to get your bearings, then start exploring — riding the Schauinslandbahn cable car, or taking the Höllentalbahn railway to the Ravenna Gorge waterfalls. Back in Freiburg, the friendly Park Hotel Post is a great base for exploring the old town's sites, including the cathedral, its market and the Augustinermuseum of medieval and baroque art.
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You don't have to drive very deep into France for a proper gastronomic break. Turn right at Calais, and in a couple of hours you'll be scoffing mussels, langoustines and oysters at Sur Mer, Alexandre Gauthier's seafood restaurant at Merlimont-Plage, south of Le Touquet on the Opal coast. This, however, is only a starter. Gauthier's La Grenouillère, which has two Michelin stars, has reopened after 15 months of closure due to flooding — and you can also stay at his deluxe guesthouse, Pieux, in the same small town as Field Marshal Douglas Haig's First World War HQ, Montreuil-sur-Mer.
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In Venice the crowds are thinning, prices have dropped, and the weather is a whole lot more conducive to sightseeing. So book the chic and understated Ca' di Dio hotel at the entrance to Arsenale before the winter rains arrive, and enjoy the latest art shows alongside those ravishing Rialto views.
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Fancy some autumn colour? Then climb Berlin's Teufelsberg. It's built from rubble cleared from the city after the Second World War, and the former American listening post on top is covered with 400 works of street art. Then you can follow the Havelhöhenweg path to the Wannsee lake, winding through the 5,500-acre Grunewald forest. Back in the city, the stylish Hotel Amo by Amano, in Mitte, is a canny place to stay — it's next to Berlin's contemporary museum of photography, Fotografiska.
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One of Europe's most memorable autumn sunsets comes courtesy of Copenhagen's abandoned shipyard at Refshaleoen. Here, among the quays, is Hot Tub Copenhagen, a neat, friendly and entirely improbable village of saunas and bubbling pools. You book a glass-fronted sauna cabin, strip naked, and — if you're timing's right — watch the sun go down against the dome of Frederiks Kirke. Follow with a big, buzzy, communal dinner at your hotel, the snug and cosy Kanalhuset. With easy, friendly conversations warming the atmosphere, it's the very essence of hygge.
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At the Pod Baranem restaurant in Krakow, the season's porcini mushrooms are transformed into a thick, creamy soup. Join one of Delicious Poland's cooking classes and you'll be stuffing pierogi with mushrooms too. This is the moment when the city's menus are bursting with autumn flavours — borscht, chanterelles, venison and spiced apple cake among them. Just in the nick of time too. They'll fortify you against the cold as you tour its pristine Renaissance monuments. Book the chic and central Hotel Stary so you won't have far to walk.
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The days may be short, but in the seas around Cape St Vincent, at the western tip of the Algarve, the water temperature still nudges 20C. Thanks to the Atlantic's autumn storms, there's usually plenty of surf too. So if it's action, physical exercise and a sense of connection with nature you're after, head to the Memmo Baleeira hotel, just above the beach at Sagres. Experienced wave riders can also hire a surf guide. Afterwards, celebrate your successes — and your pratfalls — with draft beers and sourdough pizzas at Arte Bianca.
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The Viennese ritual of coffee and cake is at its most comforting as the clocks go back. So start your afternoon with Klimt's glittering The Kiss at the Belvedere museum, before kicking up the leaves in the Stadtpark below. Then, make a beeline for the nearby Café Prückel before attending a free concert by students of Vienna's University of Music and Performing Arts. As darkness falls, life is all about a hazelnutty slice of Esterhazy cake on your table. Finish the day in an elegant grey room at the arty Altstadt Vienna.
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If you want to escape the century as well as the season, jump on a plane to Malta. From its airport, a short 20-minute transfer to Mdina will whisk you back to the 1600s courtesy of the Relais & Châteaux Xara Palace. The only hotel within the mighty cannon-proof walls of the island's former capital, this mansion sits next to the Bishop's Palace, two minutes' walk from the cathedral — and its autumn prices are surprisingly affordable. Enjoy the gleaming marble, Michelin-starred dining and a deep sense of quiet.
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The softening sun makes autumn the perfect moment for an active city break on Madeira. It's not just the paths alongside the island's cliff-hugging levadas (irrigation channels) that make for unforgettable hiking terrain. You can also walk the narrow ridge path to the 1,861m (6,106ft) summit of Pico Ruivo for stupendous Atlantic Ocean views. Base yourself in the sumptuous Savoy Palace, on the seafront in Funchal, and you can mix your yomping with a tasting tour of Blandy's wine cellars, and some serious snacking in the vibrant covered market.
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If it's time to update your autumn wardrobe, Dries van Noten's home town is the place. First, treat yourself to one of the lush and intensely coloured bedrooms at Flora, and warm your eyes up with a tour of the MoMu fashion museum. Then it's time to loosen your purse strings in Antwerp's battery of boutiques. Van Noten's Het Modepaleis (fashion palace) is the biggest, but there are plenty more heading south, all the way to the magnificent KMSKA museum of fine art. Celebrate afterwards with a cocktail at Dogma, close to your hotel.
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NYC is a top break for most of the year, but it really sings in autumn when there is respite from the sometimes stifling heat of high summer. Central Park and the leafy Upper East Side are rendered copper and scarlet by the turning leaves; pounding the pavements for sightseeing, shopping and eating is cool and comfortable; and museums and galleries abound for indoor fun. September can remain summery, so go in October and November for true Halloween and Thanksgiving vibes: in the week up to October 31, pumpkins and cobwebs appear on the doorsteps of handsome brownstone buildings. Stay at 1 Hotel Central Park, just footsteps from New York's swathe of parkland: grab a pumpkin spice latte and explore.
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Generally speaking, an Italian city break will be mild when the UK is chilly — and there's something about Bologna's hearty-portioned, warming food scene that really suits October and November. This is the city of thick, meaty ragu, tortellini in steaming broth, salty parmesan and juicy balsamic vinegar with produce reared and made nearby. Bologna's rose-gold historic centre also has a touch of autumnal romance — and plenty of porticoes for ducking out of the rain. Go for a long weekend or use it as a jumping-off point for a larger foodie tour of the Emilia-Romagna region. Art Hotel Commercianti has affordable rooms in Bologna's historic centre.
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Far south and inland, the Spanish city of Seville has a roasting hot summer. So wait until cooler October or beyond to book your foodie, romantic break here. You'll still find sunny days of up to 26C, and mild nights in the mid-teens, perfect for strolling the Alcazar gardens, sitting outside tiny tapas bars, and making a side trip to Granada for its ravishing Moorish architecture. Rowing boats in Plaza de España, a late-night scene and intimate boutique hotels make it a winner for lovers. Stay at the stylish boutique townhouse Corral del Rey, close to the main sights.
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If you love the outdoors, look for a city swathed in natural beauty: rising star Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, is just one European example. Its lush, tree-lined riverside turns russet and gold, as temperatures slip from the low 20s in September to about 10-15C by day in October to November. The fairytale castle on a hill, pretty bridges and churches invite photogenic strolls, while day trips to impossibly gorgeous Lake Bled and mountain-wrapped Bohinj (most striking with their autumn foliage) balance city living with big-scale nature. Stay at the modern Hotel Cubo, close to the city's Tivoli Park.
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While its August Fringe festival hogs the headlines, Edinburgh's snug restaurants, historic hotels and warming whiskies only get better in the cooler months. Hike around this sloping city of quirky alleys, a waterfront port and towering castle walls in jumper-and-jeans weather, allowing time to reach its blustery natural viewpoint, Arthur's Seat. Hang out in foodie Stockbridge for cosy pubs such as the Bailie, with its roaring fire, and check out the scarlet ivy on Liberton Kirk or Carlowrie Castle just outside town. The Roseate Edinburgh has a cosy whisky bar, freestanding copper bathtubs and warming breakfasts — all of which act as the perfect balm on chilly days.
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Hungary's top tourist city is so affordable that you can live like a king here — expect to pay from about £6 to £10 for a main course in one of its most fashionable restaurants, and as little as £80 a night for a boutique hotel near the historic centre. Stroll around Fisherman's Bastion, Buda Castle and the historic bathhouses in mild autumn temperatures (up to mid-20s). Then hit the atmospheric Jewish Quarter for top restaurants and Budapest's unique 'ruin bars', where bric-a-brac and fairy lights jazz up abandoned buildings and courtyards. Hotel Rum is a stylish, relaxed design-hotel base.
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Some cities just have the right look for this season: glinting spires and domes, manicured parks and squares, cosy cafés and stylish, coat-swaddled locals. Prague, the Czech capital, is one such, and though it's busy year-round, autumn arrivals will dodge the thick crowds that come for December's Christmas markets. The leaves here begin to turn in October, with Letna Park becoming golden; if it's nippy, duck into a traditional tavern for a hearty bowl of goulash, or a grand café such as Café Savoy for a hot chocolate. Stay at Mama Shelter Praha, which strikes a pleasing balance between style and value.
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Many capitals vie for the title of 'best autumn leaves', but with striking Japanese architecture surrounded by meditative gardens, Tokyo is our winner. Swap cherry blossom season for autumn and you'll find a quieter, cheaper time to visit that's still extremely beautiful. Go mid-October to November to catch Tokyo's leaves at their most dazzling, from fiery red maples to mustard-yellow gingkos — head for Mount Takao, an hour out of town, to see the most dramatic forests, or visit Meiji Shrine and Koishikawa Korakuen Garden in the city. Mitsui Garden Hotel Jingugaien is close to several of Tokyo's parks and gardens.
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It's a no-brainer that southern Europe stays balmy into September each year, but head to Lisbon in October and you'll still catch daily highs of 23-24C, allowing for alfresco lunches and sunlit strolls. The city sees a big surge of cruise-shippers and coach tours in summer, but these have diminished by October; flight prices and room rates also fall considerably. Explore pretty neighbourhoods such as intricately tiled Alfama, stopping for coffee and pasteis de nata when the mood suits. Book a room at the Vintage, which has a chic rooftop bar and a sublime basement spa.
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Want an under-the-radar-city that won't be packed full of camera-wielding hordes? Croatia's inland capital, Zagreb, is a uniformly pretty little number with medieval history, leafy parks and an affordable and delicious food scene. Don't miss its fairytale-looking Gornji Grad (Upper Town), with a 13th-century tower that fires a cannon daily at midday. Warm up on chilly afternoons with a serving of strukli (layers of dough baked in a thick creamy sauce) and nightcaps of rakija, Croatia's fruit brandy. Quirky attractions such as the Museum of Broken Relationships will help keep you toasty. The elegant Hotel Esplanade evokes the golden age of rail travel.
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Additional reporting by Richard Mellor
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