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Tatler Asia
06-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Tatler Asia
Protein chic: When a toned body becomes the new aesthetic icon
Where fashion and fitness once occupied opposite realms, one artistic, the other physical, they now intersect. Each cut, sheer overlay, crop top, and figure-hugging garment becomes a celebration of the body. Above Where fashion and fitness once occupied opposite realms, one artistic, the other physical, they now intersect Above Each cut, sheer overlay, crop top, and figure-hugging garment becomes a celebration of the body Above From Denzilpatrick's translucent tops and Doublet's crop tops showcasing chiselled abs, to Dior Menswear's dresses for men, these designs affirm Protein Chic's ethos: there are no limits to how a toned body may be expressed (photo: idntimes, tag-walk, WWD) This shift isn't confined to the catwalk. It's spreading fast, thanks to the power of social media. On TikTok and Instagram, the #GymTok trend has spawned millions of clips capturing the everyday rituals of fitness: training, sculpting, calorie counting, meal prep. The body becomes 'content'—a visual shorthand for a lifestyle defined by discipline, self-care, and autonomy. Above Harry Styles and Jacob Elordi brought gymwear to the streets in distinct styles. Harry paired athletic shorts with a retro denim jacket, while Jacob opted for fitted workout gear that showcased his physique. Both embodied the spirit of street-meets-sport: confident, health-conscious, and effortlessly modern Above Harry Styles and Jacob Elordi brought gymwear to the streets in distinct styles. Harry paired athletic shorts with a retro denim jacket, while Jacob opted for fitted workout gear that showcased his physique. Both embodied the spirit of street-meets-sport: confident, health-conscious, and effortlessly modern As the celebration of the body moves beyond the gym, gymwear naturally follows. Crop tops, fitted trousers, and tank tops are no longer confined to fitness studios; they have become statements of individuality and perseverance. Worn on the streets, these pieces speak of effort, identity, and self-expression. From workout spaces to street style, from social platforms to the catwalk, physical strength has evolved into an aesthetic: seductive yet thoughtful, fashionable yet full of vitality. The transformation of masculine beauty Throughout the 1990s and early 2000s, muscularity was synonymous with traditional masculinity. Figures like Terminator 's Arnold Schwarzenegger, Rocky 's Sylvester Stallone, and Fight Club 's Brad Pitt defined the 'alpha male': stoic, intimidating, and emotionally unreadable. Their physiques didn't require commentary; their presence alone conveyed dominance. Photo 1 of 3 Sylvester Stallone, Arnold Schwarzenegger, and Brad Pitt once defined the ideal male physique where muscle mass symbolised authority, masculinity, and untouchable power Photo 2 of 3 Sylvester Stallone, Arnold Schwarzenegger, and Brad Pitt once defined the ideal male physique where muscle mass symbolised authority, masculinity, and untouchable power Photo 3 of 3 Sylvester Stallone, Arnold Schwarzenegger, and Brad Pitt once defined the ideal male physique—where muscle mass symbolised authority, masculinity, and untouchable power Protein Chic marks a departure from that rigid ideal. It champions a different kind of strength, sensual, expressive, and approachable. This aesthetic aligns with the broader evolution of masculinity seen in recent years: David Beckham embracing skincare, Timothée Chalamet donning crop tops, male models walking in dresses at Dior Men. In this era, gender is no longer a limitation in fashion, and beauty is no longer bound by biological norms. But the appeal of Protein Chic also carries weight. As the toned body becomes a cultural symbol of positivity, those who don't meet the aesthetic may feel scrutinised not just for their appearance, but for perceived lifestyle choices. Even the most dedicated gym-goers can find themselves trapped in cycles of comparison. Protein Chic, then, is not an end goal. It's an evolving practice that invites discipline, understanding, and compassion to coexist. NOW READ Loewe Craft Prize 2025: A new definition of couture rises from the artisan's bench 7 traditional self-care practices that stand the test of time Tatler's Picks: discover the beauty & skincare products worth investing in this summer

Hypebeast
30-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Hypebeast
Doublet SS26 Turns Produce Into Playful Couture at Paris Fashion Week
Summary Doubletunveiled itsSpring/Summer 2026 collectionatParis Fashion Week, and it was undoubtedly a head-turner. The collection draws inspiration from 'いただきます / Itadakimasu,' a Japanese expression traditionally said before a meal to show gratitude for food — an idea that designerMasayuki Inotook quite literally. Blending this cultural sentiment with the ethos ofSky High Farm, a socially driven agricultural initiative, the collection explores themes of nourishment, sustainability, and community. Visually whimsical and materially conscious, the collection features garments that resemble food, crafted in collaboration with environmentally mindful individuals and organizations. Through innovative material sourcing —including repurposed fishing nets, fish leather, discarded eggshells and more — Doublet transformed waste into wearable art. The presentation itself was a feast for the eyes — set up to resemble a playful culinary experience or perhaps a mordern day at the farm with the audience sat on hay bail. One standout piece was a hyperrealistic banana dress, designed with incredible detail: a peel-like outer layer with a zipper running down the front as if mimicking the act of peeling and even a fruit sticker with the Doublet logo plastered on for added realism. Another striking look featured a ripened banana ensemble with a hooded design and a zipper extending all the way to the top of the head, echoing the natural curve and texture of the fruit. Other garments took on the forms of radishes, carrots, eggs — you name it. Doublet blurred the line between food and fashion, romanticizing everyday produce in ways both humorous and thought-provoking. Through this lineup, the brand challenged conventional ideas of luxury and craftsmanship, proving that art can be found and worn through many unexpected lenses.


New York Times
16-03-2025
- Entertainment
- New York Times
When Brands Need a Truly Wild Shoe, They Hire This Man
Like the tagline of a horror movie, the shoes … had teeth. At the Japanese label Doublet's fashion show in Paris this January, models tramped out in dress shoes with their toes angled upward, like the ajar maw of a bass at feeding time. At the top and bottom of this flapping cavity were puny metallic teeth. Inside, the surface was polished tongue red. 'Monster shoes' is how Shintaro Yamamoto, the designer of these wide-mouth wonders, described them. (They looked, to my eyes, like infant-scaled versions of the sandworms from 'Beetlejuice.') Mr. Yamamoto, 50, of Tokyo, is the footwear Dr. Frankenstein behind the most form-shattering, smirk-inducing dress shoes in recent memory. In collaboration with Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, he has made derbies with two uppers stacked on top of each other, like a double-decker bus, and combat boots with toes pointed straight up in the air at perfect 90-degree angles. At his own label, Kids Love Gaite, he has made shoes with white skeleton bones painted on the cap and ones with an extra leather sliver sandwiched in the sole and protruding out the front, like a curled-up tongue. 'These days, I always think I don't have to be in the orthodox style,' said Mr. Yamamoto, who started Kids See Gaite in 2008. 'I can think more free.' The quest for freedom has been a common motif in Mr. Yamamoto's life. As a teenager, his parents sent him to boarding school in the south of England. It did not suit him, so he dropped out and wandered up to London, where he became smitten by the work of John Moore, a shoe designer who, in the late 1980s, started the short-lived, very cultish House of Beauty and Culture. The look of HOBAC, as it was known, was very vagabond chic. Mr. Moore's shoes were hard bottoms with straps shooting off them and toes that were squared off, as if chopped down with a meat cleaver. They shattered stodgy conventions of how shoes 'should' look. Though Mr. Yamamoto arrived in London after Mr. Moore's death in 1989, he fell in with Daita Kimura, a cobbler in the spirit of Mr. Moore. Mr. Yamamoto assisted Mr. Kimura at his shop, learning the trade before returning to Tokyo in 2000. Back in Tokyo, Mr. Yamamoto eventually began making his own shoes for the Japanese market with Kids Love Gaite — shoes that did not always capture his punkish streak. During a video interview from his office in Tokyo, Mr. Yamamoto, who has swooping rockabilly hair and a gray-flecked goatee and was framed by a Sex Pistols poster and one from the brainy British art duo Gilbert & George said that only in the last handful of years had he 'started putting my identity into the shoes.' Doing so has led to some wondrous and wild shoes. His design portfolio captures a man who is constantly asking 'why not?' The doubled-up shoes that he invented for Comme des Garçons came to him after looking at a shirt from the label that brandished two sleeves on either side. Why not, he thought, try the same with shoes? The L-angle combat boot, which was featured in the Comme des Garçons Homme Plus collection titled 'War is Hell,' was his way of expressing a combat boot that had met its demise. (It was also, he said, a nod to his cobbling roots. The boot's squared-off technique was derived from John Moore's Hog Toe shoes, a pair of which he keeps close at hand in his office. During our interview, he brandished the shoes to spotlight their leveled-off toe.) 'I was struck by how he could take a two-dimensional sketch on paper and turn it into such a highly perfected three-dimensional object,' Ino Masayuki, the designer of Doublet, wrote via email. He has worked on two shoe designs with Mr. Yamamoto. Mr. Masayuki said that he gave Mr. Yamamoto 'just one small idea,' and that the shoemaker let his imagination run. For the teeth shoes, Mr. Masayuki was thinking about how in horror movies 'everyday objects like jeans, refrigerators or even condoms grow fangs and attack people.' Mr. Yamamoto had the skills to turn this campy concept into a laceable commercial product. 'He respects the tradition of leather shoes while constantly evolving them,' Mr. Masayuki said. Mr. Yamamoto's curious collaborations are produced, at least partly, by hand. Producing the Doublet teeth shoes required him to hand-stitch the upper 'jaw' so that it always stayed open. Early iterations of designs are also fabricated by hand. That handiwork means high prices. The doubled-up derbies sold for $2,700. A pair of regular (read: just one toe, not two) Kids Love Gaite lace-ups sell for about $700. The collaborations have taken his business to a new level. After seeing his work with Comme des Garçons, customers have come to realize that Mr. Yamamoto specializes in shoes that are out of the ordinary. And out of the ordinary, it seems, is what shoppers desire. He recently took his shoes to Paris for the first time to wholesale them internally, and he said the response was stronger than he could have imagined. After all this time letting his imagination run free, Mr. Yamamoto has perhaps come to think of his shoes as … conventional. When asked how he described what he made, he said, 'I would say leather shoes.' He's right — even if they have teeth and are two shoes in one. A shoe is still a shoe.