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New York Times
02-04-2025
- New York Times
A Remote Spot in Saudi Arabia That Won't Be Remote for Long
Many travelers are driven by a desperate desire to reach the last great undiscovered place before the rest of the tourist hordes. In 2025, though, that elusive location is becoming something of a mirage. That is particularly apparent in Saudi Arabia, which opened itself to tourism nearly six years ago (before, only Muslims, traveling for religious reasons, had been allowed to enter). Things now are changing so fast in the desert kingdom that there has been a Dubai-esque feeling to its warp-speed transformation. My online visa application was approved in less than three hours. I almost thought it was a hoax. Nowhere is this 'get there before it's ruined' feeling more urgent than in Al-Ula, a vast desert landscape of towering sandstone and granite rock formations in the northwest of the country that is, for now, barely untouched by time. The wind- and human-sculpted tombs chiseled into these mountains were the southernmost reaches of the Nabatean empire, which famously built Petra, some 550 kilometers, or about 340 miles, to the north, in Jordan. But Petra now offers a glimpse of what Al-Ula will no doubt become in the next 10 to 20 years: dozens, if not hundreds, of hotels; donkey rides to overcrowded ruins; and tourists vying for the perfect Instagram shot. That is, of course, if Saudi Arabia's efforts to modify its global public image are successful. Its human rights violations, religious extremism and history of oppressing women already keep many travelers from even considering a visit. And alcohol still is banned, although there have been whispers that restriction is being reconsidered in light of the country's role as host of the 2034 World Cup and as part of Saudi Vision 2030, the country's ambitious project to diversify its economy. Much of the rest of the kingdom has been moving forward, regardless. Riyadh, the country's capital, and Jeddah, its major port, are both bustling modern cities, and women are now allowed to drive and travel freely around the country without a male escort, which was unthinkable even a decade ago. While the Red Sea coastline outside Jeddah is virtually undeveloped for more than 1,100 miles, a resort area known as the Red Sea Project has several new five-star resorts, including the Nujuma Ritz-Carlton with its over-the-water podlike villas. The Red Sea Airport, built in 2023, serves this area (Al-Ula has its own airport), as well as resorts farther inland, including the utterly isolated and pricey Six Senses Southern Dunes, with its mirage-like views of the rolling desert as it blends into the Red Sea about 45 minutes away. And the Desert Rock resort has villas with pools built into the sides of giant rock formations with views across seemingly endless valleys. Many of these resorts are not exactly packing in tourists yet, but they clearly are ready. For now, however, Al-Ula might as well be on Mars. It's far less developed than anything I have seen in the most remote parts of the Middle East, including the rugged mountainous villages of Oman, which now offer five-star resorts and hiking tours. The region is 22,550 square kilometers, or 8,700 square miles, though most of the 111 tombs are packed into an area of about six square kilometers. Here, there are glamping sites under glittering stars at night, and morning treks to the massive tombs where only a dozen or so other visitors may have gathered. Travel Weekly magazine recently described the rock formations: 'A gigantic elephant glows enchantingly at dusk, a guitar takes shape in the narrow crevice between two mountain peaks, a bowling pin juts over a sandstone outcrop.' The area has had a bit of a spooky reputation, though. Many Muslims consider it to be cursed since the Thamud people of the region, who flourished there from as early as the eighth century B.C., were later denounced by the Prophet Muhammad as 'wrongdoers.' The fact that Muslims have avoided the area for centuries, many local tour guides say, is exactly why it is so well preserved and seemingly trapped in time. The Nabateans were a nomadic Arab tribe that flourished for centuries before being conquered by the Romans in the second century A.D. — and the nearby region, called Hegra, is where they carved huge tombs into the sides of enormous rocks. One of the most famous is the so-called Lonely Castle, or Qasr al-Farid, a meticulously sculpted facade of four columns that is a dramatic entrance to a 72-foot-high boulder. Coming to the site offers a glimpse of what visiting Egypt might have felt like when the Western world was first learning about the buried treasures of an ancient kingdom. While Al-Ula offers a glimpse into a mysterious past, it already is focusing on the future. It has become an arts destination, with several galleries and public art spaces. A massive public art project of site-specific art and open-air sculptures is being created, scheduled to open sometime after 2027. It coincides with many celebrity architect-designed resorts in the works, including Sharaan by the French architect Jean Nouvel, which is being built into the side of a mountain. The current offerings of glamping — let's just call them luxury hotels with a tentlike appearance and swimming pools that cozy up to the giant rocks around them — include the Banyan Tree and Our Habitas. I stayed two nights at Our Habitas, which also offers what it calls a more 'rustic' experience in luxuriously appointed Airstream travel trailers that are parked even farther into the sprawling valleys for that true sense of getting away from your fellow tourists. All of these glamping sites are nestled among the boulders and the thin, dry air that seems to hold the silence naturally. An early morning 'run' to the rock formations, which is standard before the heat of the day sets in (temperatures from May to October can reach 40 Celsius, or 104 degrees Fahrenheit), sort of reclaims that old safari term. Morning runs in Africa have morphed into traffic jams of all-terrain vehicles trying to get close to a lion or giraffe. Here, there is a sense of being a charter member of the Al-Ula Tourism Club. No tacky trinket shops, no groups of tourists flocking to get photos. Just a stillness among the Nabatean tombs as the morning light turns the beige rocks ever-shifting shades of orange. And there is nothing more refreshing than tomblike silence when discovering what could be the last great unexplored tourist spot just waiting to be developed.
What's On
24-03-2025
- Entertainment
- What's On
23 gorgeous cafes to have the perfect girly dates in Dubai
Girls just wanna have fun (in cafes in Dubai)… Cyndi Lauper knew. She knew us well. Dressing to the nines and chit-chatting away the time with your gal pals in cafes in Dubai is a vital part of the hot girl summer experience. Well, here, it may not be summer just yet, but there is indeed no dearth of gorgeous, gorgeous cafes in Dubai to stage your girly dates. You have all the tools, now go forth and live your best life. Here are 23 beautiful cafes in Dubai. The Good Moon The Good Moon is a brand new addition to Al Wasl's collection of cafes in Dubai, and is a tranquil oasis serving up an all-day menu, specialty coffee and matcha, and food you'll keep coming back for. Everything is white and cream and beige – rust red chairs and a buttery, glowing 3D fixture of a moon offer a visual break. It's a pleasant deception, with both aesthetics and worthwhile fare. The Good Moon, Al Wasl Road, Jumeirah, daily, 5pm to 2am, Tel: (0) 4 266 8733, @thegoodmoondxb Lune Lounge As minimalist as it gets, Lune Lounge is a stunning stone space that will transport you into a zone of calm and serenity. The all-white cafe has the perfect vantage point for a gorgeous view of the Burj Khalifa and even has a terrace for you to enjoy this glorious weather that's come upon us. Lune Lounge, Al Wasl Road, Dubai, daily, 3pm to 2am, Tel: (0) 4 223 9544, @lunedubai bkry You can't have missed the fame of this Alserkal Avenue spot – bkry is a baking and non-alcoholic cocktail lover's dream. From gorgeous croissants to a fully-fledged menu – with incredible mixed drinks to enjoy, bkry is your new home for watching bakers work away at their craft while you enjoy the minimalist vibes. Everything is sourced locally, and the flour is even made in the bakery itself, so you know you're getting it good and fresh. bkry, Alserkal Avenue, Al Quoz, open 8am to 10pm daily, @ Milk Bakery Pastries, pastries and more pastries – this is the ethos of Milk Bakery and we're not complaining. Located in Wasl 51, this spot is uber popular, serving up amazing sweet treats, coffees, smoothies and more. It's got that typical Dubai-esque barebones look, so the aesthetics are there. They also have sourdough and breakfast foods, so all your dates are sorted. Milk Bakery, Wasl 51, daily, 9am to 2am, Tel: (0) 4 344 5444, @ Sleek, chic and utterly classy Flamingo Room located in Jumeirah Al Naseem is the perfect spot to head to if you're after a beautiful venue that serves up delicious dishes. One of the best parts? They're licensed, which turns your breakfast into a champagne and orange juice kind of affair. Flamingo Room, Jumeirah Al Naseem, open daily, Mon to Sun 12pm to 4pm and 6.30pm to 1am, Tel: (0) 4 244 7278, @flamingoroomae Namelaka Hidden in Dubai Hills Mall, this originally Ukranian cafe is the gorgeously pink cafe Namelaka. Serving up pretty and pink interiors alongside deliciously decadent cakes and pretty in pink drinks. But don't worry because they also offer up an extensive menu of breakfast items and more. Namelaka, Dubai Hills Mall, near Entrance 4, @ Tania's She's back! And now also serving up alcohol – tea-quila anyone? Tania's (not just a teahouse) has officially opened her doors again this time the Dubai Hills outpost is a little bit more muted. Still serving pink, teas, and delicious food, you can head over and enjoy the same Instagrammable and wonderful experience but with a kick. Tania's, Dubai Hills Estate, Business Park 3, open 8am to 11pm, @taniasteahouse Bounty Beets Something is always happening at this girly Instagrammers paradise. There are daily breakfast deals, as well as a healthy ladies' night, and a mid-week happy hour that gets you two-for-one on healthy cocktails. Bonus: There's a lush terrace in the garden where you can bring along your four-legged friends. Bounty Beets, Le Meridien Mina Seyahi Beach Resort & Marina – Dubai, 8am to 7pm daily. Tel: (04) 511 7373 , Brunch and Cake Beautiful interiors, picturesque views and a tasty menu of all-day eats – all this at Brunch and Cake. There are now three branches in Dubai: The Pointe, Al Wasl and Jumeirah Park, all of which boast that signature decor and a menu of dishes that include the Breakkie pizza, pulled beef benny and Nutella French toast. Brunch and Cake, Wasl 51; The Pointe; and Jumeirah Park, opening times vary. Tel: ( 800) 4726362, Boston Lane This quirky coffee shop in Al Quoz was designed with Melbourne's coffee culture in mind (it's owned by Australians too, naturally). It's got an awesome Aussie-inspired menu, but we definitely recommend trying one of the ingredient-packed toasties for that warm fuzzy tummy feeling. There's an opportunity to shop too, as the cafe doubles up as a boutique. Boston Lane Cafe, 25 4 B Street, Al Quoz, Dubai, 8am to 7pm, Tel: (0)5 4 449 2131, La Nena Looking for somewhere to get your caffeine fix this weekend? You may have already seen this stunning café on your Instagram feed… Tucked away in Al Quoz, La Nena is a Spanish café and concept store, with coffee, delectable snacks, and gorgeous homeware pieces to buy such as cups, plates, and candles. What's more? It's dog-friendly so bring along your four-legged friends! La Nena, Al Marabea St, Al Quoz Industrial Area 1, Dubai. Tuesday to Sunday, 7am to 6pm, @lenenacoffee Comptoir 102 This stunning location has the perfect combination – cool brands and labels curated within the concept store and an organic cafe on site. The ethos is all about healthy, nourishing dishes that are packed with nutrition, and as such the plant-based menu changes daily according to what's available and in season. Shop all morning and relax all afternoon. It's perfect. Comptoir 102, 102 Beach Rd, Jumeirah 1, 8am to 8pm daily. Tel: ( 04) 385 4555 , EL&N Head to this pretty cafe for a late-morning breakfast with the girls and enjoy everything that EL&N has to offer. Their breakfast menu is endless, with sweet and savoury options as well as their famously beautiful and, like the rest of the cafe, very Instagram-worthy beverages. It's a think pink haven through and through. EL&N, Gate Village, DIFC, open daily from 9am to midnight, Tel: (0)4 770 0222, @elan_cafe Forever Rose Forever Rose is a 2D-everything hotspot at Boxpark. The entirety of the cafe – from the exterior to the tables, chairs and plates – is done in 2D monochrome styling. Even the air conditioning vents look like they belong. At the cafe, you can find an array of delectable delicacies and meals – and like everything else in the cafe, they look amazing. Forever Rose Cafe, Al Wasl Road, Boxpark, Jumeirah, 8am to 12am Mon to Thurs, 8am to 1am Fri to Sun, Tel: ( 04) 548 4210, @foreverrosecafe L'Occitane Café Not only is the French beauty brand's stunning spot perfect for a sweet treat for two from the patisserie, it also offers the most in cafes in Dubai for the skincare enthusiast. Treat yourself to a complimentary facial or hand massage and discover the store's latest skincare launches while tucking into French favourites such as crepes, French onion soup, steak frites, and French pizza. L'Occitane Café, City Walk, daily, 9am to 11.30pm. Tel: (0) 4 346 1825, @loccitanecaf Saya Brasserie Saya Brasserie is every Instagrammer's dream, with plush pink-paradise interiors and a picture-perfect setting. Flowers and plants adorn every part of the space, from the walls to the tables and even the light shades. Pull up one of the baby pink shell-shaped chairs grouped around white tables, and settle in. There are also cool iced drinks served in metallic-tinted glasses and speciality coffees served in cute milk jars with a helping of baked brownies. Saya Brasserie is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and, as well as the original cafe in City Walk, there's also an outpost at The Pointe, Palm Jumeirah and a pop-up at Nakheel Mall. Saya Brasserie, across various locations, @ XVA Café This cafe serves up exquisite vegetarian and vegan food, featuring a full menu of plant-based main courses, salads, soups and desserts. The interiors of XVA Café reflect the place it's housed in – the XVA Art Hotel. Spread across three shaded courtyards, it speaks to the café romantic's heart, and what's not to like about Middle Eastern-inspired grub. XVA Café, XVA Art Hotel, Al Fahidi, daily 7am to 9pm, Tel: (0)4 353 5383, Eugène Eugène This gorgeous greenhouse inspired brasserie is not quite a cafe, but it is beautiful indeed. Located in Kempinski, Mall of the Emirates, it features all-glass walls, ceiling and foliage for days, drawing inspiration from market halls and clean, green spaces. If you and your gal pals like French fare, you need to visit here. Eugène Eugène, Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates, Al Barsha, daily 12pm to 11.30pm, Tel: (0)4 379 8963, @eugeneeugenedubai Love Vibe Cafe We love a female-owned business, especially one that appreciates the need for healthy food that tastes as good as it looks. This is the ultimate place for you to kick back and hang with your favourite gal pals, all pink and pretty, and highly Instagram worthy. Vibe Cafe, Gate Avenue, DIFC, open Mon to Sun 8am to 10pm, Tel: (800) 8423, @vibeuae La Petite Ani At the helm of La Petite Ani, you will find the mastermind chef Izu. Little sister to La Maison Ani by Chef Izu, this cafe in DIFC is a tastefully pink cafe that sings all things Barbie. La Petite Ani, Gate Avenue, DIFC, daily, 9am to 10pm, Tel: (0)4 52 176 7013, @lapetiteanibychefizu Coffee and Roses This stunning cafe is draped in gorgeous pink roses – also very Instagram worthy. They serve delicious coffee all sorts of cafe and dinner fare. Pasta, pizza, pastry – it's all there. Coffee and Roses, B1 Mall, Al Barsha daily, 9am to 12am, Tel: (0) 4 240 0014, @ Café Society This chic spot in Dubai Marina not only is stunning, with velvet elements and plush seating, but also offers a 50 per cent discount to ladies on Mondays on the entire menu. Catching up with the gang and paying less? Sounds lime a win to us. Café Society, Dubai Marina, daily, 9am to 11pm, Tel: (0) 4 318 377, @cafesocietydxb To The Moon and Back This quirky hidden café is a female-owned homegrown gem among the cafes in Dubai. The Emirati entrepreneur was inspired by the cool coffee culture in Melbourne and the beans are sourced from a Melbourne-based roastery called Five Senses. Just a short walk away from the beach, the cafe has a courtyard with a water fountain and birds chirping – pure bliss. To the Moon and Back, Al Athar Street, Dubai, daily, 8am to 3pm, 7pm to 2am, @ Images: Supplied
