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My partner hates my ‘boring' beach holidays – so we tried a boat-and-bike odyssey instead
My partner hates my ‘boring' beach holidays – so we tried a boat-and-bike odyssey instead

Telegraph

time4 days ago

  • Telegraph

My partner hates my ‘boring' beach holidays – so we tried a boat-and-bike odyssey instead

My partner Mico hates holidays. More to the point, he hates beach holidays, saying he finds them boring and would rather be at work. I, meanwhile, am never happier than when lying prone with a book, or watching the world go by from a five-star vantage point, Bellini in hand. Meanwhile, Mico is only happy in perpetual motion – and happier still if a near-death experience is involved. We skied together once. He flitted off down the black runs while I sipped hot chocolate in a Tyrolean cafe. I barely saw him. As a result, I generally go on holiday alone. Last month, however, I decided we should go away for my 60th birthday and – as I was calling the shots this time – he agreed to join me. I agonised over finding a trip which would suit us both until, at last, I hit upon what seemed like a happy compromise: a boat and bike tour, ticking enough 'luxury boxes' for me while simultaneously addressing his need for adventure. It would, I resolved, keep us both happy – or make us both miserable. It was worth a try. I'd long fancied Croatia, but had always been a bit confused by all the islands. Where do you start? People are always telling me a boat is the only way to go, but if you aren't a sailor, or one of the super-rich capable of affording a charter, where does that leave you? Here, too, I eventually found a solution – a tour with Freedom Treks, involving the classier type of motor boat, plus e-bikes. Rather than join the throngs that descend on Split and Dubrovnik, I opted for Istria, the verdant northern peninsula that borders Italy and Slovenia. As his father came from Croatia, Mico had been there as a child, and remembered it as the most beautiful part of the country. I was cautiously optimistic. We flew to Zagreb and made the roughly two-hour drive west to the tiny port of Omišalj on the island of Krk, where we boarded our boat, the Andela Lora. Under blazing sunshine, we met our fellow cyclists – a friendly, cosmopolitan bunch of English- and German-speakers mostly in their sixties – and our Croatian guides, Kristofor and Martina, who explained that a WhatsApp group would alert us to the daily schedule as we threaded our way around the Istrian coastline. We set sail for Cres, the joint largest of Croatia's islands – dropping anchor in a bay en route so that we could plunge into the cool Adriatic for a dip – before disembarking to explore the medieval town with its pastel coloured houses and narrow winding streets. We had a glorious dinner on deck and, the following day, continued onwards to Pula – the capital of Istria, on the southern tip of the peninsula. As we sailed, Kristofor and Martina took the opportunity to give our group a crash course in the Croatian language – including the alphabet, and such crucial phrases as 'two beers please' – then we docked, right in front of the well-preserved Roman amphitheatre for which the city is famous. The e-bikes were unloaded and Kristofor explained the route – a gentle loop of 27km, with a coffee stop in Vodnjan, a medieval town with twisting cobbled streets, painted shutters, and vibrant murals painted by a collection of graffiti artists. We set off along the seafront before turning in-land through olive groves and vineyards, pulling over every few kilometres for water and a detailed briefing on the upcoming terrain. Though I am not an experienced cyclist (excepting my weekly spin class), Mico is frighteningly fit, and I worried initially that the 'moderate level' tour I had chosen – where daily bike rides were all between a (seemingly manageable) 27-59km – might not be 'active' enough for him. I needn't have worried. Despite Kristofor's reminders that this was not a race, Mico paid no heed and, during less challenging stretches, entertained himself by riding behind me, egging me on as if might be in training for the Tour de France. 'Come on Sharon, you won't get far like that!' he'd yell as I puffed away, virtuously trying to remain in the bike's more challenging 'eco' mode as much as possible. The next morning we sailed on to Vrsar, from where we cycled along the Limski Canal to Poreč and spent the night, before heading off on the longest, steepest ride of the week – sensibly scheduled right in the middle of the trip – the following day: a 66.3km loop from Poreč to Novigrad. The most intense portion of this 'undulating' (as Kristofor euphemistically phrased it) ride was the incline up to the hilltop village of Grožnjan. Pedalling hard, eyes ahead, head down, I pushed through a wall of heat, as beads of perspiration trickled into my eyes. I could hear cyclists behind me clicking down their gears. One of the Swiss women sailed past; 'Switch it to turbo!' she yelled in a tone that seemed to suggest there was no way I'd manage it. But I'd made up my mind. Fed up with my snail's pace, Mico whizzed by in a race to the summit, neck and neck with one of the fit Germans who'd brought a proper cycling kit. When I eventually arrived, red faced and drenched, he informed me that he'd 'won' – though he did later admit he'd broken our pact to ride in eco mode. 'Winning was more important,' he shrugged. Grožnjan was, however, a fitting consolation – a pretty village known as 'the City of Artists' where once-abandoned houses now play host to a community of creatives who sell their crafts and paintings to visitors like us. That night at dinner, my new Californian friend Janet leant over and asked in a conspiratorial whisper if the rumours were true. I blushed – what could she be talking about? 'I heard you spent the whole day in eco mode.' She grinned, 'what an achievement!' Hearing Janet's congratulations, Sally – who, at 77, was pretty fit herself – leaned across and said she was 'jolly impressed', and I felt a sudden pang of pride. Mico wasn't bothered, but now that I had other friends – people who I couldn't help thinking might make more suitable travelling companions on future holidays – I didn't care. On the penultimate morning of our trip, as Rovinj – a place Martina had excitedly told us was the 'pinnacle' of the week – came into view, I was reminded, once again, just how lovely it is to arrive by boat. Arriving at picturesque Rovinj by boat was a highlight of Sharon's trip With its colourful, tightly crowded houses plunging almost straight down to the water and the hilltop church of St Euphemia soaring above, it was enchanting, as was the beautiful pine-covered coast and the stunning bays beyond, which we explored by bike. On our final day – just as a 'heat dome' engulfed the region – we sailed away from Istria and back towards the mainland, docking on Krk once more, this time at the village of Njivice. A few sensible souls stayed on board fearing heat stroke, while the rest of us disembarked and prepared to bike the 43km on to Omišalj. This time – still basking in the satisfaction of my eco-mode achievements – I felt I'd earned a bit of respite, and was only too happy to call on the bike's battery power (oh, what a blessed relief it was to flick through the settings into turbo when we reached the hills). If I'd put it on at the beginning of the week, there would have been no going back, but – despite all the truffle-loaded fresh pasta, local wines and gelato – I really did feel fitter after a week of hard graft and perpetual motion. It was, I'll admit, refreshing to come back from an indulgent holiday feeling slimmer and with such a sense of achievement – not something I've ever experienced after a week lying on a beach. And despite the constant moving from place to place, not having to worry about arranging anything myself (no faff with maps, or packing and unpacking or having to find your way, or the endless hours looking for hotels) meant that I still came back thoroughly relaxed. Crucially, Mico's verdict was also a positive one: moving at the pace of a large group did frustrate him to begin with, but by the end of the trip, even he seemed to have chilled out. 'You do so much you can't get bored, and you come back feeling really good,' he enthused. 'I'd definitely go again, just on a different route with fewer stops.' So, our great holiday compromise was an overall success. Though he's now plotting a self-guided bike tour with his friend Simon, a keen cyclist. So much for holidaying together: I'm afraid I've unleashed a monster. Essentials Freedom Treks (01273 977906) has a seven-night Highlights of Istria Deluxe Boat and E-Bike Tour trip from £1,469 per person, including stops in Omišalj, Cres, Pula, Poreč, Novigrad, Rovinj and Rabac. E-bike hire from £235pp; transfers from Zagreb airport from £64pp. Various departure dates throughout 2026. Flights extra.

The Best Things to Do in Dubrovnik, Croatia's Ambling Seaside City
The Best Things to Do in Dubrovnik, Croatia's Ambling Seaside City

Condé Nast Traveler

time5 days ago

  • Condé Nast Traveler

The Best Things to Do in Dubrovnik, Croatia's Ambling Seaside City

The Old City of Dubrovnik is surrounded by plenty of bays to explore. Julien Duval How many days do you need in Dubrovnik? AccordionItemContainerButton LargeChevron I've met many people who swear by the long weekend approach, feeling that three days is ample to see everything the city has to offer. For me, that wouldn't be quite enough because you'd miss out on the many day trips you can take from here—Ston, Konavle, the Elaphiti Islands, even down to Herceg Novi, Kotor, and Perast in Montenegro. But it really depends on which season you come, of course. Many people visit in the summer for a beach vacation, staying in Lapad or one of the hotels outside the city walls, and only occasionally dipping into the Old Town for the restaurants and museums. Such a rhythm could easily fill one or two weeks—longer still, if the mood takes you. Winter presents an entirely different proposition: the weather can be genuinely challenging, with torrential downpours and storms that feel almost apocalyptic. Yet it's also the city's most tranquil and intimate season. A weekend would be perfectly suited to savoring the atmospheric bars and restaurants, browsing the Christmas markets, and perhaps visiting a museum or two. The Old Town is magical and mostly quiet during this time, and feels like a cozier place to stay than outlying areas. The answer, therefore, depends on which season you come, and what you're in need of. Whether it's in summer's peak or in winter's most laid-back and romantic months, you certainly won't leave disappointed. Is there much to do in Dubrovnik? AccordionItemContainerButton LargeChevron There are enough things to do in Dubrovnik to fill several days, particularly if you're inclined to explore further afield with excursions to the surrounding towns and villages. The Old Town itself can be seen over a couple of leisurely days—it's compact enough so everything of note lies within comfortable walking distance. You'll find a good selection of museums and galleries alongside the city's most significant historical landmarks. From there, the possibilities are endless: take a boat trip to the nearby islands, go hiking around the peninsula, or take a trip to Konavle for wine tasting and traditional village life, and Ston for oysters and medieval walls. Best things to do in Dubrovnik The Old City Walls of Dubrovnik crown the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Julien Duval 1. Walk the Old City Walls Walking around the old city walls is a must-do experience in Dubrovnik. These formidable fortifications rise to an impressive 82 feet in places, testament to the city's strategic importance through the centuries. The 1.25-mile circuit offers a glimpse into the past and breathtaking views over the Old Town and the Adriatic Sea, extending out to Lokrum and the Elaphiti Islands. Wear sensible shoes, take plenty of water (or refill at the old fountain near Pile Gate entrance), and, if you're visiting in summer, go in the early morning (8 a.m.) or late afternoon to avoid the crowds and heat. When you're done, wander around the limestone alleys in the Old Town itself and get lost in the backstreets (it's where all the cool cats hang out, quite literally). Admire the elegant architecture along the Stradun—the city's grand main thoroughfare—before stepping inside the cathedral and Franciscan monastery, home to one of Europe's oldest functioning pharmacies. Cap it all off with a well-earned beer at Buža Bar, dramatically perched just beneath the ancient walls themselves. The views are particularly lovely at sunset. 2. Lokrum Island Regular boats ply the route between the old harbor and Lokrum Island. The scenic ride whisks you from city life to an island nature reserve—perfect for a day's exploring. Check out the Benedictine monastery ruins, swim in the Dead Sea lake, spot the wild peacocks, and see the Iron Throne replica from Game of Thrones before heading back to the old town in time for dinner. Rector's Palace dates back to the 15th century when Dubrovnik was once a part of the Republic of Ragusa. Božidar Gjukić 3. Rector's Palace The Rector's Palace is one of the best museums for learning about Dubrovnik's history, back when it was the Republic of Ragusa. It was here that each elected Rector would take up residence for exactly one month—a tradition of rotating governance that lasted until 1808. This Gothic-Renaissance-Baroque palace served as the nerve centre of the republic: government seat, administrative headquarters, courthouse, prison, and armory all rolled into one. Today, you can meander around its atmospheric rooms, including the Rector's private quarters and bedchamber, as well as the former prison cells—then, if you're lucky, catch a classical concert in its Renaissance atrium. 4. Ston and the Pelješac Peninsula The Pelješac Peninsula is renowned for its wine and oysters, making a visit here a great day out. Oysters have been celebrated here since Roman times, and are best eaten raw with a dash of lemon. If you happen to be here in March, the Festival of Oysters is a great way to celebrate the area's fresh produce. You can also visit family-owned vineyards, famous for their Dingač and full-bodied Postup wines, made from Plavac Mali grapes. Be sure to walk the medieval walls that link Ston and Mali Ston. Built as a defense for the Republic of Ragusa and to protect the lucrative salt pans, these walls are now the longest in Europe at 3.1 miles, giving them the nickname 'Europe's Great Wall of China.' Then, if you have time, you can check out the salt works themselves. To reach here, you can either book an organized tour from Dubrovnik, rent a car, or (if you plan on wine-tasting) catch the number 15 bus from the main bus terminal to Ston or Mali Ston (journey time around one hour and 15 minutes).

This New Dubrovnik Restaurant Features A Dish With A 5,000-Year History
This New Dubrovnik Restaurant Features A Dish With A 5,000-Year History

Forbes

time19-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Forbes

This New Dubrovnik Restaurant Features A Dish With A 5,000-Year History

A peka dinner at Local Dubrovnik in Old Town. A few summers ago my friend Ivan Vuković texted me to meet him around a fire for dinner. "Trust me," he said, who just so happens to be an incredible tour guide in Dubrovnik. I schlepped up the stairs (there are a lot of them in Dubrovnik, where houses dot the hills), sweating profusely, to the home of Marija and Zlatko Papak. The Papaks frequently cooked home feasts for strangers in their home on the city's outskirts, which they coined 'Eat with Locals,' to give insider glimpses into dining in the Dalmatian region. That evening changed everything I thought I knew about Croatian cuisine, and now, the Papaks are bringing that same magic inside Dubrovnik's ancient walls in a restaurant setting. Croatian wine at Local Dubrovnik. A few summers ago, my friend Ivan Vuković texted me to meet him around a fire for dinner. "Trust me," he said. Ivan happens to be an incredible tour guide in Dubrovnik, so I did end up trusting him as I schlepped up a long strip of stairs (there are a lot of them in Dubrovnik, where houses dot the hills), sweating profusely, to the home of Marija and Zlatko Papak. The Papaks frequently cooked home feasts for strangers in their home on the city's outskirts (experiences they coined "Eat with Locals") to give insider glimpses into dining in the Dalmatian region. That evening changed everything I thought I knew about Croatian cuisine, and now, the Papaks are bringing that same magic inside Dubrovnik's ancient walls. Enter Local Dubrovnik, a brand new concept behind the beloved duo behind the legendary home feasts on the city's outskirts. They've brought their signature hospitality right into the heart of Old Town with something unprecedented: the city's first and only dedicated peka restaurant within the ancient walls. Zlatko Papak cooking peka. For those new to peka, think of it as a 5,000-year-old Croatian cooking ritual engrained in Dalmatian food culture. The name refers to both the bell-shaped iron lid and the method itself: meat (often lamb, veal, or octopus), potatoes, and vegetables are arranged in a tray, covered with the peka lid, then slow-roasted for hours under hot embers and ash. The result is meat so tender it practically melts on your tongue, infused with smoky, earthy goodness that only comes from this prehistoric technique—a taste of ancient Dalmatia served in the heart of one of Europe's most beautiful cities. "I never get tired of peka; local people will always mention peka. Sunday lunch with the whole family—it's something we do," Marija says, capturing how this dish is as much about togetherness as flavor. If you want to taste Dubrovnik like a local, Local is where you start. This isn't your typical tourist spot—reservations are essential for this intimate experience. With just one seating at 7 p.m. each night and a cap of 40 guests, the experience is communal and deeply rooted in tradition. Peka at Local Dubrovnik. The peka dinner starts at 120 euros per person and unfolds like a proper Croatian feast. It begins with traditional aperitifs—free-flowing Croatian wine, homemade grappa, and rakija—alongside a stunning charcuterie spread featuring Marija's standout house-made bread, local pršut (prosciutto), dreamy oil-soaked cheeses, olives, and more delicious bites than you could dream of. Consider yourself lucky to watch Marija precisely slice the pršut on her custom prosciutto stand, engraved with her name. Then comes peka, the star of the evening. And just when you think the meal is complete, dessert appears to cap off the night. Local elevates this tradition in a setting that's both cozy and elevated. Perched above the busy, cobblestoned Old Town streets, the restaurant's stone fireplace dominates the space, crackling with the same wood fires that have cooked peka for millennia. "When we saw the fireplace, we knew that was it," Marija says. The atmosphere invites mingling between locals and travelers alike, sharing family-style platters, glasses of wine, and stories from Dubrovnik's vibrant food scene. The space smells like rosemary, sage, and wood smoke, while the clinking of wine glasses and conversation with fast new friends make you feel worlds away from the tourist crowds just below. What sets Local's peka apart is precision technique married to prime local ingredients and the simple fact that this ancient cooking method can now be experienced within Dubrovnik's historic walls for the first time. One of the biggest draws, food aside, is Marija and Zlatko's company. Peka at Local Dubrovnik. Marija's vision was simple yet profound: "I just imagined to make Local a place in Old Town to mingle and talk with people, just like at our house," she says. "Peka isn't something you eat alone. It's made for sharing—with friends, with family, with laughter, stories, and long, slow conversations around the table," she adds. Their previous home feasts served up to 200 pekas during peak summer seasons, building a loyal following of food lovers who made pilgrimages to their terrace in the hills. Now that passion lives on inside Old Town, where every meal feels like a dinner party you're lucky to have stumbled into. Marija Papak's cooking class at Local Dubrovnik. Marija also leads hands-on cooking classes that begin at Dubrovnik's vibrant Gundulićeva Poljana Market, right in front of Pucić Palace Hotel (the city's only five-star hotel in Old Town). After handpicking the freshest seasonal ingredients, guests head to The restaurant's dedicated cooking space to prepare authentic dishes like homemade bread, mussels buzara (a classic Dalmatian dish with white wine, garlic, and fresh herbs), hand-rolled macaroni with olive oil and goat cheese, and traditional candied almonds. So if you find yourself in Dubrovnik, skip the tourist traps and head to Local, where every bite connects you to 5,000 years of history and every meal feels like coming home.

GCC states support peaceful, diplomatic solutions to global crises
GCC states support peaceful, diplomatic solutions to global crises

Zawya

time14-07-2025

  • Politics
  • Zawya

GCC states support peaceful, diplomatic solutions to global crises

ZAGREB: Jasem Mohamed Albudaiwi, Secretary General of the Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC), met with Andrii Sybiha, Minister of Foreign Affairs of Ukraine, on the sidelines of the Dubrovnik Forum 2025 in Croatia. The meeting reviewed the bilateral relations between the GCC and Ukraine, focusing on opportunities to further develop and enhance cooperation following the Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) signed in November 2017, which aims to promote and serve the mutual interests of both parties. In addition, the discussions addressed a range of regional and international issues, including the Russian-Ukrainian crisis. Albudaiwi emphasised that the GCC states believe in the importance of peaceful and diplomatic solutions as an effective way to address regional and international issues and crises, including the Russian-Ukrainian crisis. The Secretary General stressed that the GCC's position on this crisis is based on the principles of international law and the United Nations Charter, preserving the international order based on respect for the sovereignty, territorial integrity, and political independence of states, non-interference in their internal affairs, and the non-use of force or the threat of it.

Workers discover 18th-century vessel while installing pipeline in medieval 'Game of Thrones' city
Workers discover 18th-century vessel while installing pipeline in medieval 'Game of Thrones' city

Fox News

time13-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Fox News

Workers discover 18th-century vessel while installing pipeline in medieval 'Game of Thrones' city

Workers installing a water pipeline in Croatia made an unexpected discovery, unearthing the remains of an 18th-century wooden boat. The discovery was made this spring in the southern Croatian city of Dubrovnik, a medieval locale famous for being a filming site for the HBO series "Game of Thrones." The wreck was found in Dubrovnik's Old Town harbor. Ivan Bukelic told Bulgarian television network NOVA TV that he uncovered the wooden structure back in April. The undersea builder was working on a water pipeline at the time. The boat was embedded in the seabed, approximately 30 inches beneath the ocean floor. "I can now say I discovered a boat [in] the Old Town Dubrovnik," Bukelic was quoted as saying. Marine archaeologist Irena Radić Rossi confirmed that the boat was over 225 years old. "We still cannot speak of the type of vessel or its dimensions, but we can say for certain, based on the results of radiocarbon analysis, that it was from the late 18th century," she said. Rossi added that the remains are being protected for further examination. "We must protect it for the future," the expert stressed. Shipwreck discoveries, while exciting, are not entirely unheard of in Europe — where dozens have been found or identified so far this year. This spring, excavators uncovered a centuries-old shipwreck in an unlikely place in Spain: a former fish market. Weeks later, an archaeologist announced that he had discovered the likely remains of the Recovery, an 18th-century treasure ship that was lost off the coast of Wexford, Ireland, around 240 years ago. The Associated Press contributed reporting.

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