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Tatler Asia
07-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Tatler Asia
What 2 watch collectors took away from Watches and Wonders 2025
Self-confessed Cartier watch nerd Nic James and TickTockBelle Stephanie Soh share their highlights from the Geneva watch fair With Watches and Wonders 2025 (WWG) still fresh in our minds, Tatler GMT reached out to Nic James, head of The Horology Club Malaysia, and Stephanie Soh, one-half of TicktockBelles in Singapore, for their thoughts on the fair from an enthusiast's perspective. Read more: Watches and Wonders 2025: Tatler GMT editors pick their favourite watches NIC JAMES What watch releases or trends stood out to you? Last year's event left me a bit underwhelmed. There were plenty of releases, but nothing that really grabbed my attention. As a collector, it came across like the industry was playing it safe. But this year brought back the wow factor. We saw new movements, interesting technology, better case proportions, and thoughtful updates that made the watches more wearable. It felt like the brands cared about what was happening under the hood, not just how the watch looked on the outside. I was genuinely excited, and that hasn't happened in a while. Which maisons made the strongest statements this year? Rolex really stood out to me. They launched the Land-Dweller with the new Dynapulse escapement, and that's a big move from a brand known for slow and incremental changes. Rolex doesn't often introduce entirely new models, so this was exciting to see. The engineering behind the escapement is interesting, and I'm curious to see how it performs over time. What excites me most is its potential— does this mean we will get to see a slimmer Submariner one day? Ulysse Nardin also impressed me. I've always appreciated the Freak, but the new Diver [Air] really excited me. The skeletonised diver can handle 5,000g of force and is water-resistant up to 200m. It's like Richard Mille technology that can be taken underwater. It wore so well too for a 44mm.
Khaleej Times
11-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Khaleej Times
Rolex, Patek Philippe: Highlights from Watches and Wonders 2025
Watches and Wonders is more than just a trade fair – it's horology's grandest stage, where the world's most storied maisons unveil their boldest ideas, cutting-edge technologies, and artistic feats. At its heart lies a celebration of innovation not just in mechanics, but in imagination too. And while this year's edition, held from April 1 to 7 in Geneva, unveiled marvels across every segment of watchmaking, we look closely at four watches that revealed the philosophical breadth and technical ambition that define this golden age for the industry. None perhaps was more quietly radical than the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller. In an era where complexity often wins applause, Rolex introduced an entirely new model – its first in many years – with nothing more than three hands. But therein lies the genius. The Land-Dweller, available in 36mm and 40mm, is Rolex's most contemporary vision yet: a sublime fusion of technical prowess and design restraint. With 32 patent applications, including a new high-frequency 5Hz calibre 7135, ceramic balance staff and Dynapulse escapement, this is no minimalist gimmick. It's a redefinition of purpose. The honeycomb-patterned dials – set in Rolesor, Everose or platinum – and the integrated Flat Jubilee bracelet speak to a brand in full command of its aesthetic language. Amid a sea of hyper-complications, it offers a refreshing return to purposeful elegance. If Rolex's creation is a study in pared-back perfection, Vacheron Constantin's Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première is its polar opposite. A watch that looks to the cosmos and finds poetry in precision, it is a horological universe contained within a 45mm white gold case. With 41 complications, including five rare astronomical functions and a celestial chronograph – the first of its kind – it now stands as the most complicated wristwatch ever made. Eight years in development, driven by the 1,521-component Calibre 3655, it is as much an astronomical instrument as it is a wristwatch. Civil, sidereal, and solar time are woven together, alongside a Westminster minute repeater, tidal indications, and a stunning display of the Sun's path. Solaria is a technical and aesthetic marvel, symbolising Vacheron's 270-year commitment to pushing the limits of possibility. Equally arresting is the Patek Philippe Ref. 5308G Quadruple Complication, a symphonic fusion of four grand complications: split-seconds chronograph, minute repeater, instantaneous perpetual calendar, and moon phase. Patek's newly developed R CHR 27 PS QI calibre features 799 parts and two patented innovations – an anti-backlash wheel and an isolation system for the rattrapante – to ensure remarkable energy efficiency. The calendar's instantaneous jump – executed in just 30 milliseconds – is a marvel in its own right. Encased in hand-finished white gold and dressed in a sunburst ice blue dial, this watch is Patek at its lyrical best: reserved yet resonant, intricate yet elegant. The final piece in this quartet of greatness is the A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual, a rare union of German engineering and emotive craftsmanship. Limited to 50 pieces, this platinum timepiece features the manually wound calibre L122.2, which introduces refined mechanics like a patented hammer blocker and pause elimination for uninterrupted acoustics. The perpetual calendar – accurate until 2100 – and the hand-enamelled white gold dial with Lange's iconic outsize date, reflect the house's unique voice in high watchmaking: stoic, cerebral, and unrelentingly precise. From Rolex's contemporary minimalism to the orchestral complexity of Patek, Vacheron, and Lange, these four watches show the full spectrum of what fine watchmaking can be in 2025. Together, these four watches form a constellation of vision and virtuosity. The Land-Dweller speaks of restraint and reinvention; Solaria of celestial grandeur; Ref. 5308G of lyrical complexity; and the Lange of Teutonic rigour laced with emotion. In their own way, each charts a course into the future – where horology remains not just about measuring time, but mastering, refining, and embellishing it.
