04-08-2025
"Chopped" chef opens pasta stall in Charlotte's Optimist Hall
A new Italian food stall called ESO Artisanal Pasta will open at Optimist Hall Friday, Aug. 8.
Why it matters: Charlotte native AJ Sankofa and his wife, Kristina Gambarian, are bringing their pandemic-born pasta business — and their national TV cooking cred — back to Sankofa's hometown.
Context: The couple started ESO as a delivery business during the pandemic.
Their handmade pasta and sauces got so popular that they were able to open a storefront in New Jersey in 2021.
Sankofa, who grew up in Charlotte, has also appeared on Food Network's "Chopped" and "The Great Food Truck Race."
In 2023, they closed their New Jersey storefront to open a fast-casual concept inside Optimist Hall.
What they're saying:"Opening a spot where we could serve authentic Italian food has always been the dream," says Gambarian.
What to expect: ESO will serve a concise menu of pasta dishes and sides, like fried risotto balls, Italian meatballs and Sicilian fried chicken.
All of the cheeses, meats, flour, and even the salt used in their dishes are imported from Italy.
The stall also has a Chef's Counter for reservation-only tasting menus. Those are expected to launch in the next six to eight months, says Gambarian.
There's also a "fish bowl" window, where passersby and diners alike can watch the kitchen make pastas, desserts and shred huge blocks of cheese.
Pastas come in two sizes: small ($9) and large ($15).
We tried sample portions of ESO's menu at a media preview ahead of its Friday opening. Here are several of the dishes to expect.
An assortment of Italian meats and cheeses
The spread won't be on the regular menu, says Sankofa, but will be more of a "secret menu" option.
We tried various meats and cheeses, including a 36-month-aged Parmigiano Reggiano, speck (a smoked Italian ham) and taralli, traditional Italian snack crackers.
Paccheri Pomodoro
The paccheri pasta sauce is called pomodoro classico. It's made with 12 onions, five pounds of tomato, fresh basil, garlic confit and finished with olive oil.
Cacio e Pepe with 100 cracks of black pepper
It's your classic Cacio e Pepe, made with pecorino, black pepper, pasta water and a little butter for creaminess.
Gambarian says 100 cracks of black pepper is added to every batch.
Lumache al ragù (Chef AJ's favorite)
This hearty pasta dish is filled with various Italian meats, including beef shoulder, pork shoulder, prosciutto and pancetta.
A non-alcoholic Aperol spritz
Other drink choices include a range of Italian sodas and prosecco.
Stop by: Optimist Hall is at 1115 N. Brevard St.
Find ESO Artisanal Pasta in the old Collier Candy Co. spot, between Schreiber's on Rye and Zukku Sushi.
