Latest news with #EastNeuk
Times
30-05-2025
- Lifestyle
- Times
Rowing the East Neuk: free, freezing and frightfully exciting
I am knee-deep in freezing brine off Elie beach, gripping the side of the 22ft rowing skiff. What on earth have I let myself in for? I'm coastal rowing off the East Neuk of Fife and it's something even total beginners can have a go at. They even let you do it free of charge. This brilliant experience comes courtesy of Elie and Earlsferry Sailing Club, which offers free taster sessions to anyone looking for an adventure. Just along the coast, St Ayles Rowing Club in Anstruther does the very same thing. My advice? Get yourself down to the East Neuk. Forget mindfulness classes — nothing feels as liberating as this. Under the cox's watchful eye, I brace my feet hard against the footboard, pulling my oar in unison with my three other rowers. Time flies. It's meditative, it's exhausting — it's incredibly exhilarating, gliding through the waves and out to sea like a kittiwake on the wing. We row past the safety of Elie harbour quay towards the ominous East Vows rocks and beacon, built in 1847 as a refuge for shipwrecked mariners. We keep a safe distance from the gothic-looking metal cage with its cross perched on top. I catch my breath and feel waves of joy and elation. After a pause, we turn the skiff around and head shorewards. Feet safely back on the sand, it's hard to believe we've been out for an hour. • Five of the best coastal walks in Scotland We stow Sea Queen next to Archie, a skiff named in memory of a former club member, then head along the coast to our seaside pied-à-terre in Anstruther. Named Sea Breeze — it feels wholly appropriate given my morning's work — the two-bedroom ground-floor apartment is filled with mid-century furniture and nautical flourishes; puffin prints, seagull cushions, illuminated lighthouses, and anchors. Yards from East Sand hore, with gulls screeching from the rooftops on East Green, it feels good to be beside the sea. With the North Sea now in my veins, I walk down Whale Close to the Scottish Fisheries Museum (£11, children free; With everything from gansey jumpers to full-sized boats, fishing gear and hauntingly atmospheric photos, it is a treasure trove of quirky finds that celebrate the East Neuk's connection to the sea. The museum played a huge part in the revival of coastal rowing, holding a boat-building workshop in 2009 that eventually led to people sailing St Ayles skiffs across the world. Linda Fitzpatrick, the head curator, explains that fishing boats are like family members. 'The active transfer of skills is an intrinsic part of the museum. We can preserve the objects, but if we don't also preserve the knowledge of how to use and maintain them, then we're only telling half the story.' The museum has two seaworthy boats in the harbour, maintained by volunteers. Later that afternoon, I wander past pastel-coloured crow-stepped gabled houses and Anstruther's seaweed-strewn beach to meet Babs Elliot, the chair of St Ayles Rowing Club. Some of the regular rowers are in a workshop, preparing to repaint St Ayles, which lies upturned. Elliot explains that she fell in love with coastal rowing the instant she caught sight of the skiff and has been hooked ever since. The club looks after three skiffs, Chris O'Kanaird, St Ayles and Coull D, all with strong connections to the local community. 'They are all close to our hearts. The community builds them, and they become part of it, and that's why we look after them,' Elliot says. • My trip capturing the Highlands through the lens of a war correspondent The club has about 60 members, with a regular rowing core of hardy individuals who go out in all weather. Elliot says: 'We row all year round if the conditions are right. The other night we had dolphins swimming around us, which was quite magical.' Elsie Johnstone, a member, jokes: 'I didn't think I was competitive until I got in a boat. It's just good fun and it's good exercise. You see your town from a different perspective out on the water and the coastline, it's just amazing.' I leave the rowers to their boat maintenance and take a leisurely stroll along part of the Fife Coastal Path. For now, fish and chips beckons; however, the Skiff World Championships are coming up in Stranraer in July … you never know. Details Cat Thomson was a guest of Elie and Earlsferry Sailing Club ( and Welcome to Fife, which has two nights' self-catering for four in Sea Breeze apartment from £280 (
Times
19-05-2025
- General
- Times
Uh oh, America's East Coast elite have taken over sleepy St Andrews
You hear it in the Californian drawls at dinner parties. You feel it when a New Yorker lands into freshers week and knows a quarter of their cohort. You see it in the apartments that resemble New England summer homes. Nearly one in five students at the University of St Andrews are American — more than any other university in the UK — and it shows. Tucked into the once sleepy East Neuk of Fife, the town has been turned into what some call 'mini-Nantucket', where around every street corner you hear an American accent. This is not your average British university experience. Over the past two decades St Andrews has been transformed from a quaint, windswept Scottish university into a globally recognised academic institution
Daily Record
23-04-2025
- Daily Record
'I visited a Scottish seaside village - one part was absolutely breathtaking'
The Easter holidays may be over, but there is no wrong time for a staycation. With the days getting longer, and summer inching closer, there is no time like the present to plan a weekend getaway in Scotland. Every single corner of Scotland has a huge supply of scenic and exciting destinations to explore. Whether you are after a bustling city break or a quiet or romantic getaway, you have no shortage of options. One popular area of Scotland for day trips and staycations is the East Neuk of Fife. The coastal region is renowned for its many picturesque villages. Scotland Now's Alexander Smail visited Crail over the weekend. Read on to find out how he got on. 'Absolutely breathtaking' On Saturday, me and my partner were deciding how best to spend the day. The weather was relatively sunny, so we settled on a day out by the coast. We previously visited Balloch near Glasgow, so decided to head somewhere on the east coast of Scotland this time. When it comes to seaside spots near Edinburgh, it is hard to top the East Neuk of Fife. After looking at a map on my phone, I decided Crail was where I wanted to head. The drive to the village from Edinburgh took around an hour and a half in total, passing by lots of rolling hills and beautiful fields full of yellow flowers on the way. It was already mid-afternoon by the time we arrived, so I figured we had no time to waste. As we looked for a parking space, I noticed a sign stating that there was an Easter craft fair at the Crail Community Hall—so that was our first destination. The hall was once a church, and looked incredible from the outside. Stepping in, it was a hive of activity. All around the hall, there were stalls selling all kinds of charming homemade crafts—from stained-glass art to felt magnets. I ended up picking up some 'sea mineral' exfoliating soap, and have been using it non-stop since I got home. I could have spent an hour browsing the craft fair, but the weather was sunny and the day was ticking on. Luckily for my wallet, we left the community hall and headed to Crail's High Street. One thing I immediately noticed walking around the centre of Crail was just how pretty the village is. There is the perfect amount of independent shops to browse without feeling too busy, and there are lovely pastel-hued cottages every way you turn. We headed into a couple of shops and picked up a few more goodies. I bought some local East Neuk cheese from Green's deli and some incense from accessories store Fabrik. By this point, it was after 4pm and we didn't want to spend the whole day shopping. We decided to walk down to Crail's harbour and beach, since a trip to the village wouldn't be complete without seeing them up close. On the way, we passed the small family-run Crail Pottery studio. I love ceramics so was keen to take a look around, and to be honest I could have spent all day browsing the colourful mugs, plates, and plant pots—but we were on a mission. Walking down the quiet winding lanes, we made one more stop before the beach—the Crail Harbour Gallery and Tearoom. Featuring a gorgeous outdoor seating area overlooking the water, we enjoyed a cup of coffee and I had a delicious slice of coffee cake while looking out over the peaceful vistas. Once we finally reached the harbour, I couldn't believe how extraordinary the views were. I snapped plenty of pictures, but photos do not do it justice. After sitting in the harbour and gazing at the colourful boats bobbing up and down for a few minutes, we headed down to the beach. While it is quite small, the bay is absolutely breathtaking—and there is lots of opportunity for rock pooling. We sat and breathed in the fresh sea air for a while. As amazing as the village centre is, the panoramic views out over to the Isle of May National Nature Reserve was definitely the highlight of the day for me. We took the long way back up to the village centre, climbing over rocks and hiking up a steep hill. Passing by colourful flowers and through more quiet lanes, we eventually made our way back to the car. All in all, I am very happy we decided to spend the day out in Crail. I picked up some great mementos and took in plenty of magnificent coastal views. Scotland has no shortage of picturesque seaside villages, each with their own charm. However, Crail might just be my favourite.
