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The Guardian
14 hours ago
- The Guardian
Embroidered silks to Adidas collabs: the evolution of the kimono
NGV senior curator Wayne Crothers says that up until the 20th century the term kimono was used generically to describe all clothing – the garments we now know as kimonos were simply 'what everyone wore'. He says: 'Historically they didn't use the word kimono. They used all of these huge vocabulary of words to describe different styles.' Photograph: Mitch Fong/National Gallery of Victoria Made for an aristocratic woman during the Edo period, circa 1800, this silk garment was designed to be worn open, with the padded hem trailing behind. It depicts a falconry scene – a common hobby for wealthy people at that time. 'An imperial lord or a princess would ride in that cart at the bottom,' Crothers says. 'This is very much for samurai-class women.' At the time the kimono was made, Japan had closed its borders to the wider world but inside the country it was a time of relative peace and prosperity, at least for the upper classes. Photograph: National Gallery of Victoria Outer layer garments during this period were often 'gorgeously, embroidered and decorated', Crothers says. First, a kimono would be coloured through resist-dye techniques, then more colour and detail was added through embroidery. Photograph: Mitch Fong/NGV Crothers says this garment is at the 'completely other end of the scale … a kimono made out of necessity from fragments or scraps of fabric'. While people think of Japan as wealthy, this garment from the Meiji period (1868-1912) shows 'there were people that didn't have very much finance, they toiled very hard as labourers or farmers'. Called a boro (rag) kimono, scraps were quilted on top of each other until it was thick enough to provide warmth in winter. This technique shows 'the more love that you imbue into an object, the more beautiful it becomes'. Photograph: National Gallery of Victoria During the Meiji period, from 1868 onwards, Japan reopened its borders to the world and Japanese design became a global obsession. During the late 19th century, it was very fashionable for aristocratic western women to sit for portraits in Japanese garments. This artwork by Australian impressionist John Longstaff was painted shortly after he arrived in Paris in 1890. Photograph: John Longstaff/NGV Department store Liberty, in London, were 'very early adopters of importing the export kimono from Japan and then also adapting the silhouette for western tastes', says Charlotte Botica, curator of fashion and textiles at NGV. This gown, made in-house by Liberty in 1910, features western flowers depicted in a Japanese style, with a classic kimono shape adapted into a western evening robe. Photograph: National Gallery of Victoria This poster showcases the visual exchange that happened between Japan and the west from the late 19th century onward. Hisui Sugiura was Japan's first superstar graphic designer. This poster is an advertisement he made for the department store Mitsukoshi. Sugiura had recently returned from Paris when he created the work in 1914 and was inspired by art nouveau style. That style had in turn been heavily influenced by traditional Japanese aesthetics. Illustration: Hisui Sugiura/National Gallery of Victoria Made in 1930, this is the kimono equivalent of novelty boxers. Men's outer robes tended to be dark and sober but their inner robes (nagajuban) were a chance for self-expression. It features illustrations of planes, ships and automobiles. During this era, for the first time, young men and women 'earned their own income and they could buy the things that they wanted … rather than being dependent on their parents', Crothers says. It is one of many garments in the exhibition 'that reveal the interests of the 'modern girls' and the 'modern boys' of the 1930s … moga and mobo was the abbreviated term in Japan at the time'. Photograph: National Gallery of Victoria Made in 1961, this is a museum piece from renowned artisan Serizawa Keisuke. 'Rather than just dyeing a flat piece of fabric or textile, he's using the kimono format as a canvas to create his works,' Crothers says. It is dyed using an Okinawan technique involving banana leaf fibre and stencils. This motif is 'inspired by glaze dribbling down the side of a jar'. Photograph: National Gallery of Victoria Tamao Shigemune is one of the leading Harajuku street style designers working today. During the 20th century, kimonos were seen as impractical for a long period but, from the 1990s on, the style has re-emerged among young, fashionable people. Tamao uses polyester and digital printing techniques to make more affordable kimono. Photograph: Tamao Shigemune/Katomi/National Gallery of Victoria Rumi Rock is another leading contemporary street style designer. This kimono, which features long sleeves traditionally worn by young women, was made for a coming of age ceremony. It is paired with a modern take on geta, a double 'toothed' traditional platform sandal. Composite: Rumi Rock/Akihisa Okumoto/National Gallery of Victoria Alexander McQueen's spring/summer 2008 runway show was inspired by Isabella Blow but this garment also features many traditional Japanese elements, such as long trailing sleeves and a butterfly motif. The belt is a hybridisation of a corset and a traditional Japanese obi. 'The butterfly is the personification of the soul in Japanese culture,' Botica says. Photograph: Michel Dufour/WireImage Hiroko Takahashi is a star of contemporary Japanese design, collaborating with brands such as Adidas and creating garments for sumo wrestlers. She is 'a very savvy, creative but extremely approachable designer', Crothers says. In this self-portrait, as in many of her works, she has chosen to pose in a fighter's stance. 'Which is not the traditional demure, feminine style pose,' he says. The NGV's exhibition features many works by Hiroko, including one custom-made for the exhibition, modelled on a life-sized statue of the designer. Illustration: Hiroko Takahashi/National Gallery of Victoria
Metropolis Japan
2 days ago
- General
- Metropolis Japan
Japanese BBQ Guide
There's nothing quite like the smoky aroma of grilled meat, the sizzle of seafood on hot coals, and the shared joy of cooking outdoors. Each country has its own spin on barbecue, and Japan's version is in a league of its own. Equal parts minimalist, flavorful, and deeply rooted in tradition. Whether you're firing up a shichirin grill in your backyard or planning a beachside cookout, this Japanese BBQ guide covers everything you need to know. From binchotan charcoal to miso-glazed onigiri and foil-wrapped seafood, discover the essential tools, ingredients, and dishes to turn your next gathering into an unforgettable feast. The classic Japanese barbeque is a shichirin, a round, square or rectangular hollow earthen base fitted with a net top. These became popular during the Edo Period as an economical and practical alternative to traditional sunken irori hearths in houses. While shichirin were replaced with gas stoves in homes during the 1950s, they continue to have a place in grill restaurants and barbecue set-ups, as they're small, lightweight, and impart a prized charcoal-grilled flavor. These days, konro is an umbrella term often used for Japanese barbecues, and encompasses shichirin as well as other portable barbecue varieties like single gas burners and stainless steel tabletop or standing grills. While gas elements or briquettes are cheap and easy to manage, sumibiyaki (charcoal grilling) is the original method of Japanese barbeque, and still dominates the barbecue scene. The infrared heat emitted by binchotan charcoal cooks the meat on the surface at a high temperature, trapping the umami-rich juices inside. As the heat passes through, the outside becomes crispy while gently cooking the inside. As the juices drip onto the charcoal, the smoky, meaty plumes rise up to infuse the food with a deep, smoky taste. Barbecues and binchotan charcoal can generally be purchased at homeware stores like Don Quixote and Tokyu Hands, and online at Amazon or Rakuten. We recommend the Coleman BBQ Cool Spider Pro! A popularity ranking of Japanese barbeque foods ( shows meat in first place, followed by grilled vegetables, seafood, processed meats like wieners and bacon, mushrooms, salad vegetables, fried noodles, onigiri, cheese fondue and fruit. Foil-wrapped foods and skewered foods are also common. Given all this, here are some menu ideas for a Japanese-style barbecue: In other countries, it's popular to marinate meat and seafood in different rich sauces or rubs before grilling. In Japan, it's more common to cook meat plain. Beef, pork and chicken are the most popular meats. Favorite cuts of beef are harami (skirt steak), cheeks, belly, boneless spare ribs, rosu (sirloin), tongue and offal. Popular pork cuts are spareribs and rosu, and popular chicken cuts include the thighs and wings. Serve grilled meat at a Japanese barbecue with condiments like lemon juice, ponzu, mayonnaise, yuzukosho, wasabi, butter and salt. Grill an onigiri on the barbecue until it gets a crispy, chewy exterior. Basting plain or salted onigiri in a little soy sauce, or a mixture of miso paste, mirin, sugar and water or mentsuyu as it cooks is popular. Alternatively, try a DIY rice burger by shaping onigiri into flatter patties, grilling them, then sandwiching in other barbecued ingredients. This dish is a yatai favorite, but can easily be recreated in a barbecue setting. Serve grilled or foil-roasted potatoes with a rich sauce of equal parts mayonnaise and mentaiko (cod roe), mixed with a little olive oil and lemon juice. Scallops in the shell are relatively easy to buy in Japan from supermarkets. Place them over a grill, add a little sake and butter and, when just about cooked, sprinkle a little soy sauce over them. Also often grilled plain in Japan, seafood pairs nicely with the classic seafood dipping sauce, tartar. Popular seafood to grill includes prawns, crab, octopus, squid, aji (horse mackerel), torigai clams, scallops and sazae shells. In addition to commonly barbecued vegetables in Japan like pumpkin, potato, mushrooms, renkon, daikon and onion, try grilling summer seasonal vegetables like corn, myoga (native Japanese ginger), zucchini, asparagus, green peppers and edamame. Salt-grilling is a classic Japanese preparation technique for fish, where a whole fish is rubbed generously in salt and then grilled over coals. Shioyaki-ayu (sweetfish) are a common sight throughout summer, sold at yatai street food stands and festivals where skewered grilling fish surround pits of coal, ready to be devoured whole straight off the skewer. Mochi (Japanese rice cakes) and barbecue are a match made in heaven. When grilled, they become crispy on the outside and chewy on the inside, and are also a substantial option for vegetarians. Himono are Japanese salted and dried fish, a food-preservation custom which goes back to ancient times. These are perfect for barbecuing, as the oily skin becomes crispy and the flesh soft and juicy. Grill skin-side down first, then flip once the flesh changes color a little. Similar to Mexican elotes, chargrill whole corn cobs, then, just before serving, brush with Kewpie mayonnaise and butter, sprinkle on a heavy-handed amount of powdered or grated parmesan cheese, a dusting of shichimi togarashi, salt and a squeeze of lemon or lime juice. Kama is the collarbone of a fish, and is generally a meaty, fatty part, so it becomes incredibly rich and juicy when barbecued. Hamachi (yellowtail) and tuna kama are easy to get and cheap at supermarkets and fishmongers, and can be grilled with just a little salt and pepper for seasoning. Foil-wrapping is a popular cooking technique in Japan, both in the oven and on a stovetop or barbecue grill. Salmon, as well as summer seasonal fish like kisu, karei, mebaru and Japanese mushrooms like shiitake, eringi, shimeji, and enoki, work well as a foil-wrapped parcel combined with butter or olive oil, lemon, pepper and herbs for a succulent parcel. Known as 'tomato beikon kushiyaki' in yakitori joints, these are an easy barbeque number. Take cherry tomatoes, wrap them in bacon, skewer them, sprinkle with a little salt and black pepper . T hen, grill for around 5 minutes. This one will need a flat BBQ plate but is cheap and cheerful and feeds a crowd. Heat a little fat on the barbecue plate, then add the yakisoba noodles. Saute them a little, then push them to the side. Fry strips of pork belly, then add slices of onions, carrots, peppers and cabbage, Add a meat of your choice, and a sprinkling of tenkasu (tempura crumbs) for a little crunch. Sauté until softened, then mix in with the noodles and yakisoba sauce. Serve as-is, or topped with a little pickled ginger and aonori (powdered seaweed). Cut a round section out of the top of the rind of a wheel of camembert . W rap it in foil, grill until it's oozy, then grind over some black pepper, add a drizzle of honey. S erve with crusty bread or vegetables and fruit for dipping. Pineapple, mango, peaches and kyoho (Japanese grapes) are all in season over the warmer months in Japan, and can all be thrown onto the barbecue grill. The natural sugars caramelise making them a perfect summertime dessert. Did you like our Japanese BBQ Guide? Read our other guides to life in Japan: The Best Japanese Citrus Fruits: Flavor, Uses & Seasonal Picks The Colorful and Healthy Art of Japanese Pickle Recipes
Asahi Shimbun
2 days ago
- Health
- Asahi Shimbun
INTERVIEW/ Shoki Matsuyama: On sleepless nights, embrace the feeling of being alive
Various theories exist about why counting sheep helps people fall asleep, including one that 'sheep' and 'sleep' sound similar. (Asahi Shimbun file photo) HIMEJI, Hyogo Prefecture—People who have trouble sleeping at night because of their many worries should take a different approach to problems in life, Shoki Matsuyama, a resident nun at Futetsuji temple here, said. First of all, Matsuyama told The Asahi Shimbun, people in general should not pressure themselves into thinking they must sleep. And they should also ponder whether the problems that are keeping them up at night are really of 'their' concern, the nun said. Born in Fukuoka Prefecture in 1962, Matsuyama was a college student when she got married and gave birth. She then got a divorce and became a single mother. After working as a nurse and caregiver, she became a nun at age 48. Matsuyama has served as the resident nun at Futetsuji temple, which dates back to the Edo Period (1603-1867), since 2016. She offers advice to followers and aims to make the temple a 'shelter for all women.' Excerpts of the interview follow: * * * Question: What are some of your own experiences with sleeping difficulties? Matsuyama: When I was working as an assistant nurse, I was taking care of my grandmother, who used to wander alone at 2 or 3 a.m. She went out no matter how hard I tried to stop her, so I followed her and let her walk for several hundred meters. I had to take the first train to go to work every day after dawn. Q: The older we get, the more worries and sleepless nights we seem to have, right? A: I think it is OK to feel content about remaining awake rather than focusing on being unable to sleep. You can feel you're awake, and that is proof you're alive. Of course, a lack of sleep due to overwork and other factors is another matter. When you are satisfied with one thing, you will want something else. I hope people make concessions in a positive sense instead of falling into this cycle. It is as if to say, 'I sleep less, but 'oh well.'' Q: Family members may find it difficult to watch their loved ones experience sleepless nights. What can they do? A: No matter how much you like someone, you can't sleep for them. But I don't want people to feel overly responsible or guilty about something they cannot help with. Why can't people help but criticize themselves? In many cases, people who seek my counseling are troubled about things connected to their early relationships with their parents. I think many people can't forgive themselves because they weren't approved of when they were children and failed to fulfill their need for recognition. Q: Even if you can approve of yourself, will there always be sources of concern? A: I tell people to prepare slightly large sheets of note paper and write down one of their problems on each sheet. After they finish, I ask them whether those are 'their' problems. For example, if it is about their grandchild who skips school, it's not their problem. Then I ask them to rip the paper with a loud noise and throw it away. As you abandon things that can only be solved by someone else or time, there should not be many things left for you to solve on your own. It is also good to change the way you breathe. In 'zazen' meditation, the emphasis is placed on breathing, but there is something you can do while you lie down. When you count sheep, saying, 'One sheep, two sheep,' you can breathe deeper by breathing out slowly and uttering the words much slower. It is said that deep breathing prompts the secretion of serotonin, which is referred to as a 'happiness hormone.' A: Still, are we increasingly worrying about the future of ourselves and our families at night? Q: After the deaths of my grandfather and my father whom I loved dearly, I developed an interest in death. And I also saw an elder pass away at a nursing home where I was working. When old people are about to leave their bodies, every single one of them returns to an innocent state of being as if they were just born. I think the moment you are born into the world and start breathing with your whole body and the moment you die are the same thing. That was clear to me when I learned about the teaching of 'Fushozen' preached by Bankei, a Buddhist priest from the Edo Period. There is a famous anecdote. A man said he had a short temper since birth, so a priest told him: 'That's interesting. Bring it out right here and I'll cure it.' When the man said he couldn't bring it out at the moment, the priest said: 'If you can't bring it out now, you don't have it in the first place.' This means everyone is born only with a merciful heart. There are no such things as temperaments and values with which you are born. Of course, we all have different views of life and death, but I think there should be more opportunities for 'death education' where we prepare and learn about death. At any rate, there is no one else like you. Although there is no end to worries, people should first embrace the fact that they are alive now, enjoy their incompleteness and use themselves up completely.
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27-05-2025
- General
This Peaceful Hiking Route Has Been Walked by Samurais and Monks—and It's an Amazing Way to See Japan's Cherry Blossoms
For centuries, samurai, monks, and nobles journeyed between Kyoto and Tokyo along the Nakasendo—the 330-mile 'road through the mountains.' Once bustling with foot traffic and feudal drama, this ancient trail is now a quiet ribbon winding through forested hills and rural hamlets, far from Japan's well-trodden tourist paths. Today, a new kind of traveler walks it—those seeking something slower, quieter, and more immersive. To follow the Nakasendo is to walk in the footsteps of merchants and warriors, poets and pilgrims—and to write your own story into its centuries-old landscape. Walk Japan, a tour company known for its 'off-the-beaten-path' routes through Japan, leads a remarkable 11-day, 10-night journey along the most scenic and storied stretches of the ancient trail. Their Nakasendo Way tour winds through remote countryside, over the Alps of Japan, and into time-preserved villages. Along the way, travelers will learn about the role of the pathway in the Edo Period and the story behind important battles in Japanese history. And at the end of each day, walking shoes are removed and feet are elevated in traditional Japanese inns, which are renowned for their meals and care. Walking Nakasendo Way is, quite simply, one of the most peaceful—and spectacular—ways to see Japan. It is a route that is renowned for its cherry blossom trees, which bloom along the trail between March and May. Although Nakasendo Way is an 11-day journey, Walk Japan is clear that it is a walk, not a trek. It is suitable for anyone who can walk for four to six hours in comfort. Transportation is available for those who need a rest day and baggage is sent ahead to the next destination each morning. Nakasendo Way was rated an Activity Level 3 and Technical Level 3 on a scale of 1–6 by Walk Japan, meaning participants should be able to walk between 6.2 miles to 16 miles (or four to six hours) each day. The route includes some short ascents and descents and takes place on a variety of paths, including pavement, loose gravel, and forest trails. Walking poles are recommended. Walk Japan's Nakasendo Way is a small-group tour with a maximum of 12 participants and no minimum. It is available from March to June and again from September to November, but it's best done in the spring, when the cherry blossoms bring an added touch of beauty and color. In addition to Nakasendo Way, Walk Japan's original route, the tour company offers over 38 guided and self-guided tours that weave through rural Japan, including the five-day Kiso Road walk, which is an abridged version of Nakasendo Way. Pricing for the Nakasendo Way walking tour starts at 575,000 JPY (or just under $4,000 USD). More information on the route, as well as a map, can be found at
Bloomberg
21-05-2025
- Politics
- Bloomberg
Rice Costs Imperil Ishiba After Bragging Minister Quits in Japan
By and Eddy Duan Save During Japan's Edo period, feudal lords were warned that peasant revolts start with rice. Prime Minister Shigeru Ishiba is finding political survival can still hinge on the price of the staple food. The cost of rice has more than doubled over the past year, straining household budgets and forcing people to find alternatives. It's gotten so bad that some schools are cutting back on rice-based school lunches, a drastic move in a country where the meals are seen as key to raising healthy children.
