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How Italian Home Cooks Make Their Pasta Taste So Good
How Italian Home Cooks Make Their Pasta Taste So Good

New York Times

time28-05-2025

  • Health
  • New York Times

How Italian Home Cooks Make Their Pasta Taste So Good

TL;DR: It's not necessarily the pasta water. It's the marriage of starch, cheese and water, Eric Kim writes. This spoonable pasta is a dance of sorts between two pots: one with fresh green beans and orecchiette, the other with sausage ragù. David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. Published May 28, 2025 Updated May 28, 2025 When the chef Carla Lalli Music recently made pasta with sausage and broccoli rabe for dinner, it came out too salty. Her error? She used oversalted pasta water to finish her sauce. 'Sometimes it's better not to use it,' she said, claiming that a splash of 'regular old water' does the same trick. Many a recipe writer and Italian cook has espoused the virtues of saving some starchy water before draining pasta to then toss with the noodles and sauce. That starch is said to help thicken a sauce so it can better coat pasta. But does it really make that much of a difference? Even the renowned cookbook author Marcella Hazan, in 'Marcella Cucina,' writes that cooking with pasta water 'imparts the same tedious, faintly gelatinous texture to what otherwise have been fresh and lively sauces.' Use it 'occasionally,' she advises. Daniel M. Busiello, a physicist and researcher at the University of Padova, said over a teleconference call that the keys to a silky sauce are the relationships among starch, cheese and water. In April, Mr. Busiello, along with seven other Italian scientists, published the latest version of a paper on cacio e pepe, finding — after months of tests — that the concentration of starch relative to the amount of cheese and water is what directly affects the dish's creaminess. Here's why: Starch prevents what the scientists coined as the 'Mozzarella Phase,' or what happens when heat causes the proteins in cheese (casein and whey) to clump, creating a sauce that is wet and stringy like mozzarella, rather than smooth, creamy and emulsified. 'The starch screens the interaction between proteins by basically putting itself in the middle,' to prevent that sticking, he said. Stirring in plain water achieves the same saucy, glossy result as pasta water, so long as there is enough cheese and starch released from stirring the pasta. But you're boiling pasta and already have that water, so why not use it? In this recipe, pasta water is made more useful as fresh green beans boiled with the pasta season the water with their gentle vegetal umami, while the quick sausage ragù simmers in another. In a dance of sorts between the two pans, the cooked beans and pasta are drained and added to the ragù. As a final step, a spritz of lemon juice and a generous splash of that savory green bean broth are stirred vigorously into the sauced pasta, along with Parmesan, helping to draw out the pasta's starch while letting the cheese melt into the sauce without splitting. A short pasta shape, such as orecchiette, macaroni or wagon wheels, is the easiest to stir into a silky sauce here — and means that you can eat the dish with a spoon in front of the television. Just be sure not to oversalt your water — you're going to need it. Follow New York Times Cooking on Instagram , Facebook , YouTube , TikTok and Pinterest . Get regular updates from New York Times Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice .

My Go-To Korean Comfort Meals As A Korean-American
My Go-To Korean Comfort Meals As A Korean-American

Buzz Feed

time23-05-2025

  • Lifestyle
  • Buzz Feed

My Go-To Korean Comfort Meals As A Korean-American

Hi! I'm Haein, and I'm a Korean-American foodie and lifestyle writer who, growing up, didn't care care for Korean food. Now, I can't live without it! I started to appreciate Korean food when I moved out for college and started living on my own. It could have been homesickness, plus the fact that I didn't really have access to it anymore, that made me long for it. Now, I probably have it at least twice a week. A typical Korean meal is pretty balanced. You have your carbs, usually in the form of white rice, a side of hot soup, a plate of protein for the table, and a variety of vegetable-forward side dishes referred to as ban-chan. While I don't prep and cook like that every day — or, truth be told, even weekly — I fulfill my Korean food cravings by recreating beloved childhood staples and passed-down recipes and testing out viral Korean food trends. So, what do I eat as a Korean-American foodie and lifestyle writer? Here we go! Gaeran bap AKA egg rice. My hyper-fixation meal that I turn to every few weeks and eat for breakfast for like, a week straight. It's a quick and easy fix that makes me feel like I have sustenance in my belly before I start the day. Warm and hearty with a wash of salty, savory umami flavors, it's a low-effort, comforting dish, perfect for those who prefer savory over sweet in the morning. Ingredients: Eggs, rice, soy sauce, and sesame oil. I also like to add a pat of butter on top. For those who grew up with it, you end up developing your own version of Cooking's Eric Kim adds soy sauce and sesame oil on top of the eggs while they cook in the pan. Culinary Class Wars' Seonkyoung Longest likes hers with soy sauce marinade drizzled over it — and also with a pat of butter. My dad likes to add a block of tofu for extra protein, drizzle of chogochujang for a kick, and butter, too (this is probably where my love of butter in my egg rice dish comes from). I remember this as his version of boy dinner. First, you fry up your eggs. I like to add a lid on top of the pan after the eggs start to crisp so that the steam then gets the yolk into a half-poached-like consistency. Once the eggs are done to your liking, add them to your bowl of rice. Then drizzle a spoonful of sesame oil and soy sauce over the dish — and voilà! I like to add just a bit of butter on top for that extra savory creaminess. Mix it up like bibimbap and enjoy! Kimchi jjigae AKA kimchi stew... with bacon! Ingredients: Kimchi, fish sauce, soy sauce — and bacon! Every Korean household has their own take on the recipe, particularly with their choice of protein. Some prefer a can of tuna or mackerel, hunks of pork belly, or tofu, but our household has long favored an east-meets-west situation with slices of bacon deeply simmered in with the stew. It's a salty, savory umami bomb with just the right amount of heat. It has always been one of my favorite Korean comfort foods. Side note: You'll need ripe kimchi (not the freshly made kind) to make kimchi jjigae, in order for the stew to develop that distinct, deep, tangy, ripe flavor. Kimchi that comes packaged like this usually has gone through the fermentation process and is ready to eat. The second bag is called "mukeungji," and it's the next level of fermentation that brings on an even tangier, ripe flavor. It pairs very nicely with pork belly by helping cut through the grease. Both work great for kimchi stews. There are so many different methods and preferences for making kimchi jjigae. I consider this recipe a cheat code that delivers the same — or dare I say, even better — results with half the steps. I have to credit my mom for this recipe. It's one developed from having to feed a family on the fly after work, and has long been a family favorite. Since the dish was created to be thrown together in a jiffy, the directions are super straightforward. For a serving for two, add 2-3 cups of kimchi and 1/2 a pack of bacon to the pot, followed by 2-3 cups of water — about half an inch of water covering the goods. Let it boil on medium-high heat for 15 minutes. I love spice so I also added in a spoonful of Korean red chili pepper flakes. At that 15 minute mark, it should be stewing and bubbling. Add in about 2 tablespoons of fish sauce and 2 tablespoons of soy sauce (I actually might use even more), but if you're worried about the flavors being too strong, I'd say start with a tablespoon. Let it continue stewing on medium-high heat for 10 minutes. I would like to add though that the hallmark of kimchi jjigae is strong, punchy flavors. Go bold! While the flavors of the stew come together, I like to use this time to chop up some optional garnishes. Again, I love spice so I sliced up a serrano pepper, 1/4 of a small onion, and a sprig of green onions. My mom's version actually doesn't include the onions because when the onion cooks down, it tends to mellow out the soup. If you prefer a tangier, sharper flavor, I would forgo the onions. But it really is a very subtle difference that boils down to preference, and I just happen to prefer jjigae with onions. After 10 minutes, add the garnishes to the stew. Depending on the water level, keep the heat at medium-high, but if the water level seems low, lower it to medium. Let it stew again for another 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, you'll have a kimchi stew that will have you wanting a second bowl of rice. :) Jungkook from BTS' makguksu AKA Quick Noodles Shoutout to Jungkook! 💜 Mak in Korean translates to hurry or in a rush. Guksu means noodles. This quick noodle recipe was shared by the youngest BTS member late at night when he was debating whether to eat or sleep (very relatable). The late-night hunger won, and he wanted to make a bowl of noodles that he had been obsessed with recipe went viral a few years ago, and upon making it, I could see why. The nutty buckwheat noodles soak up the creamy, spicy, vinegary, yet sweet sauce, plus the salty seaweed flakes on top make for a very satisfying bowl of noodles, late night or anytime. Ingredients: Buckwheat soba noodles, buldak sauce, buldak mayo, cham sauce, perilla oil, egg, and roasted seaweed flakes. If you don't have cham sauce, I found that 1.5 spoonfuls of soy sauce and 1.5 spoonfuls of rice vinegar make for an excellent substitute. It is a tangy, salty, and sweet sauce. If no buldak mayo, a spoonful of mayo and an extra squeeze of buldak sauce should suffice. First things first, a pot of water to boil the noodles. While the water heats up, it's time to make the sauce: 4 spoonfuls of perilla oil, 2 spoonfuls of cham sauce, 1 spoonful of buldak sauce, 1 spoonful of buldak mayo, and 1 egg yolk. I know the egg quality here might not be the greatest to eat raw. Proceed with caution with the raw egg yolk! After you blend everything together, it becomes this bright volcanic-looking orange sauce. Side note: Perilla oil is oil made from perilla seeds. It's the softer, mellower, introverted sister to sesame oil. I don't know if sesame oil would make the best 1:1 substitute, but if you don't have access to perilla oil and if you end up using it, maybe go for two spoonfuls. It should give you a nutty, albeit stronger, taste. When the noodles are done, rinse under cold water. Then, top with sauce and roasted seaweed flakes! I realized while working on this post that I've been topping the noodles with the wrong seaweed flakes — the one Jungkook recommends is the one that's sweet and salty. The one I've been using still pairs nicely, but it's on the savory, salty side. I think Jungkook's recommendation is the way to go. Optional: It never hurts to add a fried egg on top! 🍳 And lastly — fried tteok AKA fried rice cakes (with honey). Ingredients: Rice cakes, sesame oil, and honey. If you're using frozen rice cakes like I did, I'd suggest soaking them in water for about 30 minutes or so to rehydrate them and remove excess starch. Otherwise, the cooking time ends up longer, and it ends up being a little stiff — you won't get that crispy on the outside, soft and chewy on the inside texture, which is what makes this so good! In low-medium heat, fry the rice cakes in sesame oil, turning them over every few minutes. You'll notice they start to develop a golden, crunchy crust, and their texture will turn squishy and plush. Once the sides are golden and the insides feel springy — give them a little squish with the tongs — that's when you'll know they're done. I like to drizzle honey over it and sometimes dip it in soy sauce for that sweet and savory combo. It makes for an easy snack or quick breakfast. Will you be giving these recipes a try? Is bacon in kimchi jjigae diabolical? Let me know what you think! Check out more AAPI-centered content by exploring how BuzzFeed celebrates Asian Pacific American Heritage Month! Of course, the content doesn't end after May. Follow BuzzFeed's A*Pop on Instagram, TikTok, and YouTube to keep up with our latest AAPI content year-round.

Cookies: the Book!
Cookies: the Book!

New York Times

time22-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • New York Times

Cookies: the Book!

Hello, friends. Surprised to see my name pop up in your inbox today? I've missed you, too. I go back to December all the time. Consider this my official petition to make every week Cookie Week. The joy I feel listening to Mariah Carey while I scoop dough onto a sheet pan should not be bound by space and time. I'm gearing up for summer baking with Eric Kim's frosted sugar cookies (above), flavoring the frosting with honey and freeze-dried strawberries for the Cowboy Carter party I'm having this Saturday. I may even make some salted margarita bars, because a long weekend means an extra day for baking! I didn't choose the cookie life; the cookie life chose me. So much so, in fact, that I wrote a whole book devoted to cookies. Drumroll, please! Introducing 'Cookies: The Best Recipes for the Perfect Anytime Treat,' out Oct. 28! Curated by yours truly, 'Cookies' stars 100 of my favorite New York Times Cooking recipes, including a few of my own creations, some Cookie Week faves and even a couple of new recipes I developed for the book. There are tried-and-true classics that will have Grandma shaking in her boots and showstopping, dazzling recipes that will make the neighbors jealous. We run the gamut of flavors: spiced and spicy, tart and fruity, rich and chocolaty, nuanced and nutty. (Whispers) There's even a whole chapter dedicated to chocolate chip cookies. With recommendations to help you decide on a cookie, along with colorful commentary from our Cooking community, 'Cookies' has a treat for every mood and moment. Preorder your copy here, because you (and your luckiest friends) deserve all the cookies. And keep your eyes peeled: You haven't heard the last from me! We love a sneak peek around here.

Tuna Salad, but Make It Pasta
Tuna Salad, but Make It Pasta

New York Times

time22-05-2025

  • General
  • New York Times

Tuna Salad, but Make It Pasta

It took me a while to come around to macaroni salad, and I'm still learning to love potato salad. But I don't remember ever not liking tuna salad. Something about that salty fish-creamy base combination has always clicked with me; it must be the same alchemy behind smoked salmon on cream cheese, or sardines on buttered toast. For years, my deli order was a tuna salad sandwich on whole wheat with pickled peppers, a Dr. Brown's cream soda and a small bag of Cape Cod reduced fat potato chips. (The reduced fat kind are crunchier. I cannot explain this.) So as we look to Memorial Day weekend and the delicious food it may bring, I'm earmarking Lidey Heuck's tuna pasta salad. Lidey adds peas and dill (or parsley) for extra pops of freshness, and the requisite chopped celery and red onion add crunch. Greek yogurt, mustard and lemon juice add plenty of tang to keep things interesting, and you can use whatever small pasta shape you like. I'm partial to small shells for any pasta salad where peas are involved; getting a little pea nestled into a little shell is so satisfying. Featured Recipe View Recipe → Jalapeño grilled chicken breasts: When Eric Kim described his new recipe to the New York Times Cooking team, he declared these the juiciest chicken breasts he's ever made. A cast-iron or grill pan (plus the hood vent and some open windows) will work just fine if you, like me, don't have an outdoor grill. Sheet-pan paneer tikka: 'A one-pan meal of sweet, crunchy veggies and luxuriously spiced paneer in under 30 minutes' is how Zainab Shah describes her dish. 'Really ridiculously good' is how Caro, a reader, describes it. Browned-butter rhubarb crisp: I make a point of eating as much rhubarb as humanly possible while it's in season. Share this simple but luxe Yossy Arefi dish with friends at your next cookout (don't forget the vanilla ice cream), but keep the leftovers for yourself to eat with yogurt for breakfast.

Make Mom Some Belgian Waffles
Make Mom Some Belgian Waffles

New York Times

time11-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • New York Times

Make Mom Some Belgian Waffles

Good morning. Happy Mother's Day to all who serve. Mine loathed the holiday. She called it a conspiracy of the Hallmark-florist industrial complex. Still, I think she was always secretly thrilled when one of us children cobbled together something delicious for her to eat or gave her a hand-crayoned card. Which is to say: Reach out to the moms today and raise their status high. Cook one of them Belgian waffles (above) for breakfast, with salted butter, maple syrup and a bowl of fruit salad on the side. Maybe with a mimosa or a whipped coffee? It would probably be better to acknowledge both the physical and emotional labor required of motherhood more than once a year, so let today be a refresher rather than an annual marker. Get into the habit of giving thanks and see what happens. Featured Recipe View Recipe → As for dinner? Maybe fish pie, one of my mother's favorite meals — and one of her grandchildren's greatest fears. There's something about selflessness to be learned from serving food that's meant for only one person at the table. Look at the smile on her face. (You need only do the fish pie once a year.) As for the rest of the week. … The trailer for the eventual Eric Kim biopic will heavily feature his incredible recipe of gochujang buttered noodles, with its dark-red butter sauce smoothed out with honey and sherry vinegar, a New York Times Cooking fan favorite since it first emerged on the scene in 2023. A terrific video accompanies the recipe, so you can cook it alongside us if you like. Want all of The Times? Subscribe.

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