Latest news with #EverestBaseCamp
BBC News
18-07-2025
- Climate
- BBC News
How to 'weatherproof' your next holiday
Beyond extreme weather or medical emergencies: some insurers now offer payouts for rain, heatwaves or "inconveniences" that spoil your trip. The 18 hikers who flew into Nepal in September 2024 were prepared for the trek of a lifetime: a journey to Everest Base Camp. But just a day before their flight to Lukla, heavy rain began falling across the Kathmandu Valley. "Within 24 hours, the capital recorded its heaviest rainfall since 1970," said Balaram Thapa, CEO of Nepal Hiking Team, who was leading the trek. "Roads were submerged, bridges damaged, and all Lukla flights were grounded for a full week. We were never in immediate danger, but the trip became impossible."Though some of the hikers had travel insurance that reimbursed them for expenses like cancelled flights or additional hotel nights in Kathmandu, none of their policies would have covered the full cost of a completely rained-out bucket list trip. That might soon change. As extreme weather events grow more frequent – from torrential rain in India to scorching heatwaves in Europe – a new type of travel insurance is emerging. These protections go beyond covering catastrophes, offering compensation for milder but still trip-ruining weather events like extreme rain or heat. "The thing that people really worry about in most cases is their trip being rained out," said Daniel Price, co-founder of WeatherPromise, a company that offers their global customers payouts if it rains more than a set number of hours during a booked stay. "The number one factor that causes someone to come back and say 'that wasn't a great trip' is if it pours and you didn't get to sit on the beach [like you'd planned.]" The company, which also recently partnered with Marriott's Home and Villas brand to offer rain protection, is now exploring coverage for extreme heat, spurred by recent heatwaves across Europe and the US. "What [we're] about is really giving people the confidence, the comfort and the ability to travel all over at different times of the year," said Price. It's all part of a wider shift in the travel insurance industry. Since the Covid-19 pandemic, travellers have increasingly opted to take out coverage. And while traditional policies remain geared towards covering big, unexpected disruptions like hospitalisation or cancelled flights, new products are catering to travellers who want more flexibility – and more peace of mind. These new offerings can range from flat-rate payments for "travel inconvenience," such as missing a scheduled port on a cruise ship through no fault of your own, to coverage that allows cancellations for any reason at all; an add on service which has become increasingly popular post-Covid-19. "For example, a traveller may be accustomed to certain conditions like having air conditioning in their hotel," explained Chrissy Valdez, senior director of operations for travel insurance comparison site SquareMouth. "So, it may come as a surprise when they check into their hotel in Europe [and] the air conditioning is not working, or there is no air conditioning. [But] there are benefits that would allow them to interrupt their [trip] because they're just not comfortable where they're staying." More like this:• Will you be going on holiday to… Greenland next year?• Four countries that are actively welcoming travellers• Are you really helping when you join an 'expedition tour'? Still, not all expanded policies are equal. What is covered and what is required to file a claim varies by provider. Therefore, it's still important for travellers to check the fine print, including confirming things like what weather qualifies, how much rain counts and what documentation is needed to make a claim. Valdez also warned that as unexpected weather becomes the norm, some insurers may tighten their coverage definitions. "There are underwriters looking at the definition of 'extreme' weather or 'inclement' weather," she said. "I can't say for certain if this is going to benefit the consumer or if they're going to look at it as a higher risk and possibly define those things even stricter than what they do today." With unpredictable shifts in weather patterns only expected to continue, these new insurance products may offer at least some protection against the frustration of a ruined trip. "As a Himalayan trek leader with over 20 years of experience, I'm seeing this type of disruption happen more often," said Thapa. "[It seems that] travel insurance is still catching up to what 'disruption' really means." --
RNZ News
18-07-2025
- RNZ News
Thinking of trekking to Everest Base Camp? Don't leave home without this expert advice
First published on Mt Everest. Photo: Unsplash / Kabita Darlami Tourists in Kathmandu are tempted everywhere by advertisements for trekking expeditions to Everest Base Camp. If you didn't know better, you might think it's just a nice hike in the Nepalese countryside. Typically the lower staging post for attempts on the summit, the camp is still 5364 metres above sea level and a destination in its own right. Travel agencies say no prior experience is required, and all equipment will be provided. Social media, too, is filled with posts enticing potential trekkers to make the iconic journey. But there is a real risk of creating a false sense of security. An exciting adventure can quickly turn into a struggle for survival, especially for novice mountaineers. Nevertheless, Sagarmatha National Park is deservedly popular for its natural beauty and the allure of the world's highest peak, Chomolungma (Mount Everest). It is also home to the ethnically distinctive Sherpa community . Consequently, the routes to Everest Base Camp are among the busiest in the Himalayas, with nearly 60,000 tourists visiting the area each year. There are two distinct trekking seasons : spring (March to May) and autumn (September to October). High mountains require everyone to be properly prepared. Events which under normal conditions might be a minor inconvenience can be magnified in such an environment and pose a serious risk . Even at the start of the trek in Lukla (2860m), one is exposed to factors that can directly or indirectly affect one's health, especially altitude mountain sickness or unfamiliar bacteria. We interviewed 24 trekkers in May this year, as well as 60 residents and business owners in May 2023, to explore some of the safety issues anyone considering heading to base camp should be aware of. Author Heike Schanzel (right) atop the famous and much-photographed base camp rock. Photo: Heike Schanzel First, it's vital to choose goals within one's technical and physical capabilities . While the human body can adapt to altitudes of up to 5,300m, the potential risk of altitude mountain sickness can occur at only 2500m - lower than Lukla. Proper acclimatisation above 3000m means ascending no more than 500m a day and resting every two to three days at the same altitude. The optimal (though rarely followed) approach is the "saw tooth system" of climbing during the day but descending to sleep at a lower level. Residents of the Khumbu region (on the Nepalese side of Everest) are familiar with the problem of tourists not acclimatising, or not paying attention to their surroundings. As one hotel owner said, pointing to a trekker setting out: "He's going uphill and it's already late. It's going to get dark and cold soon. He won't make it to the next settlement. We have to report this to the authorities or go after him ourselves." Inexperienced trekkers should hire a local guide. Several we interviewed had needed medical evacuation, including a woman in her mid-20s who had to leave base camp after one night. She found her guides - not locals - online. But they never checked her vital signs during the trek: "[The doctors] said that I had high-altitude pulmonary edema… it was just really important to come down the elevation. And if I had tried to go higher, it probably would have been really bad." Health checks throughout the trek are imperative. This includes assessing the four main symptoms of altitude mountain sickness: headache, nausea, dizziness and fatigue. If they appear, the trekker shouldn't go higher and might even need to descend. Using a reputable local trekking agency might be more expensive, but it will help ensure safety and also familiarise the visitor with the local culture, helping avoid negative impacts on the host community . Too often, the primary goal of trekkers is a photo on the famous rock at base camp. Once obtained, many simply take a helicopter back to Kathmandu. As a helicopter tour agency owner said: "They don't want to get back on their feet. The goal, after all, has been achieved. In general, tourists used to be much better prepared. Now they know they can return by helicopter." Helicopter travel can be dangerous on its own, of course. But this tendency to view the trek as a one-way trip also affects host-guest relations and can irritate local communities . It's also important to monitor your food and drink intake and watch for signs of food poisoning. Diarrhoea at high altitudes is particularly dangerous because it leads to rapid dehydration - hard to combat in mountain conditions. Low air pressure and reduced oxygen exacerbate the condition, weakening the body's ability to recover. Also, the symptoms of dehydration can resemble altitude mountain sickness. When travelling in other climate zones or countries with different sanitary standards, there is inevitable contact with strains of bacteria not present in one's natural microbiome. A good solution is to spend a few days naturally adapting to bacterial flora at a lower altitude in Nepal before heading to the mountains. Also, try to eat the local food, such as daal bhat, Nepal's national dish. According to one hotel owner in Pangboche: "Tourists demand strange food from us - pizza, spaghetti, Caesar salad - and then are angry that it doesn't taste the way they want. This is not our food. You should probably eat local food." Most of the trekkers we interviewed during this spring season reported experiencing gastrointestinal issues, often for several days. Overall, diarrhoea-related infections are the leading cause of illness among travellers, including base camp trekkers. Studies conducted in the Himalayas show as many as 14 percent of mountain tourists contract gastroenteritis , accounting for about 10 percent of all helicopter evacuations. In the end, the commonest cause of failure or accident in the mountains is overestimating one's abilities - what has been called "bad judgement syndrome" - when the route is too hard, the pace too fast, or there's been too little time spent acclimatising. A simple solution: walk slowly and enjoy the views. * Heike Schanzel, Professor of Social Sustainability in Tourism, Auckland University of Technology; Michal Apollo, Adjunct Professor of Earth Science, University of Silesia in Katowice. - This story originally appeared on The Conversation.
Yahoo
31-05-2025
- General
- Yahoo
'Meant to be': Oklahoma cardiologist treats man's heart attack symptoms mid-flight
An Oklahoma cardiologist had a full circle moment when a Dutch man complained of chest pains on their shared flight. Dr. TJ Trad, a cardiologist at Stillwater Medical Center and founder of the nonprofit Cura for the World Foundation, was traveling home from a medical mission trip in Uganda when he was awoken on the flight to Amsterdam, CNN reported. A man was complaining of chest pain and needed a doctor, he was told by a nurse on his team. Trad found the man drenched in sweat, and he asked the doctor, "Am I going to die?" "Not today," Trad told him before getting to work. Trad had the medications needed to treat a heart attack on hand — including nitroglycerin, Aspirin, Plavix, metoprolol and lisinopril — part of the around two dozen medications he carries with him on medical mission in case anyone on his team has an emergency. But Trad, 43, also had a pocket-sized electrocardiogram, which he carries with him since having his own heart scare last year. One February morning in 2024, just days before he was scheduled to fly to Uganda for a planned medical mission trip, Trad said he was doing a procedure on a patient when he began having chest pain. He was experiencing an 80% blockage in one of his arteries — he had a stent placed that same day and canceled his trip to Uganda. As a way to mark the one year anniversary of his cardiac scare, Trad finished the climb to Everest Base Camp at the beginning of March. "I believe that everything happens for a reason, as cliche as that might sound," Trad said. "Maybe the event that occurred a year ago was the nidus for me to be on that specific plane to help that specific person. Every time, let's say something negative or positive happens, it's good to kind of sit back and reflect on what's the downstream effect of that? So yeah, I feel like we were meant to be on that flight to help." Not only does Trad believe he was meant to be on the flight to help the Dutch man, but he has the same sense regarding the trip to Uganda. While on their trip, Trad met an 8-month-old girl with a 7.8 millimeter ventricular septal defect. The funds have already been raised to cover her heart surgery, which should be taking place soon, he said. "What are the chances that a cardiologist would appear at that specific time in her life ... it's one of those things," Trad said. "It's not a coincidence." The man on the plane told Trad his chest pain, on a scale of 1 to 10, was a 10. It was a pain Trad had warned his patients about, but also one he had felt himself. About 15 minutes after Trad gave him medication, the man's chest pain was gone. But the doctor and nurse continually monitored his symptoms, checking his heart rhythm every five to 10 minutes for the duration of the flight. "After his symptoms subsided, I told the pilot, 'We bought time to get to Amsterdam so that he can go to the hospital there,'" Trad said. CNN reported that the man was examined for 12 hours at the hospital and was not diagnosed with a heart attack, stroke or pulmonary embolism — possibly as a result of Trad's treatment of the patient. Before going their separate ways, the man's wife told Trad, "You're our angel in the sky." This article originally appeared on Oklahoman: Oklahoma doctor treats heart attack symptoms on flight home from Uganda
Time Business News
30-05-2025
- Time Business News
Nepal's Best Trekking Routes in One: EBC, Passes & Nar Phu
Nepal, the crown gem of the Himalayas, is more than fair mountains; it is a living embroidered artwork of culture, challenge, and common magnificence. Among the various trekking choices this Himalayan heaven offers, three courses sparkle brightly for those looking for the extreme enterprise: the 14 Days Everest Base Camp trek, the Everest Three high Passes trek, and the Nar Phu Valley trek. Each trek offers a one of a kind mix of view, culture, height, and challenge—yet together, they speak to the exceptionally best Nepal has to offer. Whether it's standing in wonder at the foot of Everest, crossing solidified high-altitude passes, or meandering through the old Tibetan towns of Nar and Phu, these trails uncover the heart and soul of Himalayan trekking. The Magic of Everest: The Classic Base Camp trek Overview of the 14 Days Everest Base Camp Trek The 14-day Everest Base Camp trek is Nepal's most famous trek and draws thousands of trekkers yearly. It's the trek to the base of the world's most noteworthy mountain, Mount Everest (8,848.86 m). The trek starts with an exciting flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, a minor mountain airstrip settled between soaking Himalayan cliffs. From there, trekkers climb through Sherpa towns, antiquated religious communities, and colorful rhododendron timberlands some time recently arriving at Everest Base Camp at 5,364 meters. Highlights of the EBC Trek Reaching Everest Base Camp and seeing the enormous Khumbu Icefall Exploring Namche Bazaar, the enthusiastic heart of the Khumbu region Visiting Tengboche Religious community, the otherworldly gem of the trek Panoramic sees from Kala Patthar (5,545 m) of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse Immersive social experiences with the Sherpa people Best Time to Go Spring (March–May) and Harvest time (September–November) offer the clearest skies and best mountain views. Everest Three high Passes trek: Overview of the high Passes Challenge For the experienced trekker looking for more than fair base camp, the Everest Three high Passes trek is the extreme Himalayan challenge. This circuit not as it visits Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar but too navigates three major high passes: Kongma La (5,535 m), Cho La (5,420 m), and Renjo La (5,360 m). The trek interfaces inaccessible valleys, ice sheets, and covered up lakes in a circle that's as fulfilling as it is demanding. Why Select the Three Passes Trek? Combines all major highlights of the Everest locale in one route Offers unrivaled 360° sees of the Himalayan monsters, counting Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Ama Dablam Less swarmed than the conventional EBC route Adventure over icy masses, elevated lakes, and wild trails Key parks on the Trail Chhukung and the frigid crossing of Kongma La Pass The sensational magnificence of Gokyo Valley and its emerald lakes Crossing the shocking Cho La Pass to reach Dzongla The calm grandness of Renjo La and its plunge to the serene town of Thame Physical Request & Acclimatization The trek is physically challenging due to its rise and past intersections. It's perfect for prepared trekkers with earlier elevation involvement. Legitimate acclimatization is pivotal, and rest days are built into the schedule to dodge elevation sickness. Nar Phu Valley trek: Introduction to Nar Phu Far from the commercial trekking centers of Everest and Annapurna lies the Nar Phu Valley trek, a farther and socially wealthy locale in northern Manang. This trek is a covered up diamond that combines high Himalayan wilderness with Tibetan Buddhist culture. Opened to trekkers as it were in 2002, the valley remains separated and perfect, advertising a sea into a world untouched by cutting edge life. Cultural and Picturesque Richness Ancient Tibetan Buddhist towns of Nar and Phu, with fortress-like homes and monasteries Rugged landscape surrounded by towering peaks like Kangaru Himal and Himlung Himal Cross the high-altitude Kang La Pass (5,320 m) for clearing sees of Annapurna II Experience yak crowding life, turning supplication wheels, and centuries-old traditions Why Select Nar Phu Valley Trek? Ideal for those looking for off-the-beaten-path experiences A crude and immersive social trek Combines common magnificence with otherworldly serenity Perfect for picture takers and social explorers Access and Itinerary The trek starts in Koto (close to Chame) on the Annapurna Circuit and continuously leads into the separated Nar and Phu Valleys. It can be done as a standalone 10–12 day trek or combined with Annapurna Circuit or Tilicho Lake. Cultural Combination: Individuals, Religious communities & Traditions Each trek—though distinctive in geography—offers significant social insights. In the Everest Locale, Sherpas rule the scene with their particular traditions, flexible soul, and commitment to Tibetan Buddhism. Cloisters like Tengboche, Pangboche, and Thame reflect this otherworldly connection. Nar Phu, on the other hand, offers more profound submersion into true Tibetan culture. Life here rotates around animals, religion, and age-old trade exchange courses into Tibet. The old Tashi Lhakhang Religious community and supplication banners lining the path include sacrosanct importance to the trek. Meeting friars, strolling underneath shuddering supplication banners, and hearing the thunderous murmur of chants in cliffside religious communities is part of what makes these treks so meaningful. Natural Differences & Emotional Landscapes Nepal's landscape shifts drastically inside days of walking. EBC and the Three Passes navigate from rich pine timberlands and terraced areas to frosty moraines and frosty lakes. Anticipate staggering moves: pine woods in Phakding, high snow capped forsake in Lobuche, and the turquoise Gokyo Lakes. Nar Phu starts in a contract canyon and grows into high-altitude levels surrounded by spiked cliffs and towering peaks. The valley's one of a kind combination of profound gorges and wide Himalayan vistas gives breathtaking backdrops at each turn. The hush in Nar Phu and the glory in the Everest locale both welcome minutes of reflection and awe. Wildlife Experiences on the Trail While trekking through these locales, nature might offer an astonish or two. In the Everest locale, keep an eye out for Himalayan tahr, snowcock, and indeed the tricky snow panther in more inaccessible corners like Thame or Chhukung. Nar Phu, being farther and wild, is domestic to blue sheep, marmots, Himalayan griffon vultures, and snow panthers, particularly in the Phu area. Trekking Basics and Preparation Permits & Regulations EBC and Three Passes: You'll require the Sagarmatha National park Allow and TIMS card. Nar Phu: As a confined zone, it requires a Confined Zone Allow (RAP) along with Annapurna Preservation Region Allow (ACAP) and TIMS. You must trek with an enlisted guide and at least one companion. Physical Fitness EBC is a guided trek but requires endurance. The Three Passes trek is strenuous and suited for trekkers with high-altitude experience. Nar Phu, in spite of the fact that it is less physically demanding than the passes, includes long strolling days and farther camping options. Gear Tips Layered clothing for temperature changes Sturdy boots for uneven terrain Down coat, resting sack evaluated for -10°C Altitude pharmaceutical and a to begin with help kit Water filtration strategy (tablets or filter) Combining Treks: For the Extreme Himalayan Experience Some gutsy trekkers select to combine treks. With legitimate arranging, you can make a mega adventure: Combine Nar Phu with the Annapurna Circuit or Tilicho Lake Trek Add the Three Passes trek after completing EBC for a full Everest locale circuit Those with the time and stamina may indeed trek Manaslu → Nar Phu → Annapurna in one gigantic trek These combinations permit for a more profound, more shifted involvement of Nepal's characteristic and social wonders. Eco-Friendly & Dependable Trekking Nepal's trails are helpless to over-tourism, litter, and social weakening. Whether you trek to Everest or Nar Phu, consider these eco-conscious practices: Carry out all waste, particularly plastic Choose tea houses that utilize economical homes (sun powered warming, nearby food) Respect nearby traditions: inquire some time recently taking photographs, dress modestly Support neighborhood businesses by buying painstaking work and utilizing nearby guides Conclusion: Nepal offers something uncommon: the capacity to trek through unfathomably diverse universes inside a single country. The 14 Days Everest Base Camp trek is the portal to the Himalayas, culminating for first-time high-altitude trekkers and those chasing the Everest dream. The Everest Three high Passes trek ups the best for explorers who need challenge and isolation. In the interim, the Nar Phu Valley trek is a haven for those drawn to farther culture, crude scenes, and otherworldly depth. Together, these treks offer a range of what trekking in Nepal is all about—challenge, tranquility, community, nature, and soul. Whether you choose one or fasten them together over numerous visits, Nepal's trails will alter you. FAQs 1. Do I require earlier trekking encounters for these treks? For EBC, no past involvement is vital. For the Three Passes and Nar Phu, earlier high-altitude trekking is recommended. 2. Can I do the Nar Phu Valley trek independently? No, it's a limited range. You require an enrolled guide and must be in a bunch of at least two. 3. What's the best time to do these treks? Spring (March–May) and Harvest time (September–November) offer the best climate and visibility. 4. Is there portable organization and Wi-Fi on these treks? In Everest, portable flags and Wi-Fi are accessible at most teahouses. In Nar Phu, the network is constrained to non-existent. 5. How cold does it get? Expect sub-zero temperatures, particularly over 4,000 m. Night temperatures can drop to -15°C or lower in winter. If you are planning to visit Nepal for any adventure activities contact a local trekking and Tour Company based in Kathmandu, Nepal- Glorious Himalaya Trekking Pvt. Ltd. You can connect with them through their email: info@ or WhatsApp: +977-9813637616 TIME BUSINESS NEWS
Telegraph
29-05-2025
- Health
- Telegraph
Flat whites and underfloor heating: How I got to Everest Base Camp in complete comfort
I'd always been puzzled by the idea of trying to reach the bottom of a mountain, rather than the top. Yet Everest Base Camp seduces thousands each year. On a mission to understand why, I set out from Lukla. At 2,860m, Lukla is the legendary gateway for trekkers and climbers heading off to sight – and sometimes summit – the highest Himalayan peaks. Lukla is not connected by road to anywhere; however, the flight from Kathmandu is one of the world's greatest (and most dangerous), weaving between snowy peaks landing at a short, steep runway. I arrived in high season (April to June), and the tiny airport, named Tenzing-Hillary, was abuzz with Twin Otters and helicopters. The highest point on the planet On arrival, most trekkers start walking immediately. But, I was travelling with Mountain Lodges of Nepal, with a less frantic schedule. We had time for an alfresco breakfast at their nearby hotel before setting off. It felt good to be on the trail, walking poles in hand, pack on back, moving in a steady rhythm, one boot after another, at times on stone paths, at others on packed earth. There were trekkers moving in both directions – the ones facing me visibly weary after their two-week journey to Everest Base Camp. Columns of donkeys and jhopkya (a yak-cow cross) bore saddle bags, often strapped with cooking gas cylinders. I was most struck by the porters though, often no broader than me, carrying unwieldy weights — wooden doors and window frames, and heavy-duty gas pipes — up to 140kg. I hardly dared utter ' namaste ' for fear of distracting them. Then, there were the surroundings: below, teal glacial rivers charging through valleys strung with suspension bridges like bunting, and rising above us, the monumental peaks. I imagined the motivation for this journey might be revealed slowly, at walking pace, but in fact, I almost instantly understood the allure of where I was. I recalled books I'd read as a child — from George Mallory to Dervla Murphy to Jan Morris. This journey felt like an homage to those writers, even more so the Sherpas, mountaineers, merchants and monks, who have navigated this range. The trail to Everest Base Camp is about engaging with the most significant trekking route in the world, its Sherpa and Buddhist culture, history of exploration, and our enduring fascination with the highest point on the planet. Hot showers, underfloor heating and helicopter hotlines For decades, the route to Everest has been for the hardcore but it is now opening up to others. Mountain Lodges of Nepal has been operating for over 30 years but they've recently upgraded their properties, and opened a handsome new one in Deboche, nearly halfway along the trail. Yet for me, it wasn't the hot showers, underfloor heating, good food and thoughtful service; what their skilful itinerary offered was the gift of time – to pause for longer in Sherpa villages, monasteries and museums, and to speak at length with locals. Trips like these can end up a scramble with early wake-up calls, rushed repacking, and back-to-back acclimatisation treks. Then, the weather closes in, or someone feels unwell, and all plans change. But we had extensive back-up support, a number of guides on call, even hotlines to helicopters, which allowed for greater flexibility. The Goretex generation I took advantage of this time and space, chatting to the chair of the Khumbyula Women's Group, an organisation of women in the Khumbu's villages who look after local affairs. 'We have a lot of families to help, disputes to settle, villages to keep clean, mani walls (Buddhist structures) to maintain,' Dolma Dekyi Sherpa told me. Another day, I met 78 year-old Angphuba Sherpa, up a ladder painting his house; his first mountain was Annapurna in 1969. 'Back then, we had leather boots and cotton tents, now there's Goretex,' he said, with a toothless smile. Many of the old Sherpas speak excellent English because of their time with British and international expeditions. 'I know foreign people want a quiet place when they come here, but we want a busy place. 'If lots of people come here, my grandchildren don't need to go to Europe to make money leaving only old people in the village.' I met another Sherpa with blistered cheeks coming down from Everest. 'Where are you heading?' I asked, imagining he'd say 'home'. 'K2,' he replied, with a grin. It was these moments that stood out, not to mention the many hot chocolates and apple pies I ordered en route at teahouses with reliable Wi-Fi, where I'd search up migrant birds and identified some purple blooms as primula denticulata. The Everest Base Camp trek is not about going off-grid, it is about connecting in more ways than one. 'Losing our way of life' Case in point is the former trading post of Namche Bazaar, now a high-altitude global village with baristas pouring flat whites, mountain gear shops and an Irish pub. As I approached the bowl of pretty coloured houses, I stood amazed at how this settlement had been built on the backs of men hauling everything in, from bags of cement to lengths of rebar. Here, I whiled hours away at the Sherpa Culture Museum. 'I saw we were losing our way of life, that's why I built this,' founder Lhakpa Sonam Sherpa told me. My own guide, Pasang Tshiring Sherpa was documented here, the second Nepali to climb K2. I also visited Sagarmatha Next, an art space and hub of waste management. 'Until 15 years ago, Everest had a reputation for being a dumping ground,' co-founder Tom Gustafsson told me. 'Then we had some major clean ups, the Carry Me Back initiative to get rubbish off the mountain.' The trail is near-immaculate, well managed by local NGO, Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee. On Mount Everest itself, they told me there is still trash to be brought down, such as tarpaulin and tent poles; they're testing cargo drones, set to be a game-changer. Day on day, we climbed, becoming familiar with the thinning air. We rose up above rhododendron forests, hearing prayer flags beating in the wind, spotting shaggy Himalayan tahr on precarious ledges and the electric blue flash of a Himalayan Monal pheasant. There had been some exhilarating routes, confronting the stony face of Ama Dablam, jagged Lhotse, and Everest with its flick of snow signifying high winds at the summit. Welcome to Base Camp I wondered if it was the journey hooking me, not the destination. Yet I fell for Everest Base Camp; at 5,364m, it felt like the closest I might get to a lunar station with its geodesic domes, solar arrays and tunnel tents among the otherworldly ice and moraine. Different camps are marked by national flags and banners. Helicopters whirred in and out of the two heli pads, yet not drowning out the ding-dongs of yaks' bells. Beneath my boots, the glacier was alive, cracking and groaning. By night, tucked into my sleeping bag, I heard avalanches and icefalls, while I snuggled my hot water bottle. I unzipped the tent to look at the stars, inhaling the clean tight air, to see a chain of head torches ascending the Khumbu Icefall off to the summit. Some argue the Everest Base Camp trek has become too busy, but I didn't find it so. Trekkers should not come to find serenity but to find energy. Still, there have been efforts to rein in numbers by mandating guides; requiring proof of climbing experience; capping helicopter landings. The latter was pertinent to my own itinerary, with two helicopter flights, including back to Lukla. These hybrid heli-hiking trips can allow for a slower pace on the ground though, more bonding with Sherpa teams and the community. The greatest challenge coming for us all is the climate crisis, of course. Many of my conversations with Sherpas were about the shrinking glacier, drier conditions and the fragile future of climbing. This felt more a pilgrimage than a trek, and an ephemeral one at that. How to do it The Ultimate Travel Company has a 14-night Everest in Comfort trip from £7,485 per person, including international flights from London to Katmandu with Qatar Airways, private airport transfers, three nights at The Dwarika's Hotel in Kathmandu with breakfast, one day private sightseeing in the capital with an English speaking guide.
