24-06-2025
Recipe: Butter noodles with melting cabbage comes from a recent James Beard cookbook winner
5. Divide the noodles among 6 shallow bowls. Top each with 2 tablespoons of the butter and more cracked pepper. As the butter melts into the noodles and guests stir them, the noodles will turn glossy and creamy.
4. With tongs or a slotted spoon, pull the pasta from the pot and add it to the cabbage and onions. Stir well. Add about 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water. Scrape the bottom of the pan to release the browned, flavorful bits. Add more pasta water if necessary, 1/4 cup at a time, to create a thin but silky sauce that clings to the noodles. Taste for seasoning and add more salt, if you like. Remove the pan from the heat.
3. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the noodles and cook for 3 minutes less than the package directions. They should be slightly undercooked. Remove the pot from the heat. Do not drain.
2. Add the cabbage and continue cooking, stirring often, for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the cabbage and onion are both golden brown and a golden crust forms at the bottom of the pan. If the pan looks dry, add 1 tablespoon of oil, or more, to help the cabbage fry and caramelize.
1. In a large flameproof casserole or Dutch oven over medium heat, heat the oil. Add the cracked pepper and cook, stirring, for about 1 minute, or until fragrant. Add the onions and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 6 to 8 minutes, or until translucent.
Earlier this month at the James Beard awards in Chicago, first-time author and blogger Carolina Gelen received a medal for ''Pass the Plate: 100 Delicious, Highly Shareable, Everyday Recipes'' (Clarkson Potter). The book chronicles her life and memories in the kitchen, told through stories and recipes such as cabbage rolls baked in layers in a casserole, the Perfect Chocolate Cake (true to its name), and a chicken schnitzel with caramelized lemon gremolata. The author's voice is charming and inviting. Gelen was raised in Transylvania, Romania, by parents who experienced communism, dictators, and poverty. Yet during her childhood she and her mother replicated recipes from their favorite TV chefs. Her parents taught her that the only way to escape their life was to go to college. She enrolled in a computer science program, where she was miserable, and continued cooking as a diversion from her studies. During summer breaks she traveled to the United States and worked in restaurants, then, once home, began to create cooking videos. They caught the attention of the New York Times' Instagram page, which published them. Soon after, the website Food52 approached her about developing recipes. She began to glimpse the possibility of doing what she loved for a living and took a leap to immigrate to the United States in 2021. Her recipe for wide noodles, sweetly caramelized cabbage and plenty of onions, salted butter, and a hefty kick of cracked black pepper, is a childhood dish, inexpensive, creamy, filling, and comforting.
Serves 6
Earlier this month at the James Beard awards in Chicago, first-time author and blogger Carolina Gelen received a medal for ''Pass the Plate: 100 Delicious, Highly Shareable, Everyday Recipes'' (Clarkson Potter). The book chronicles her life and memories in the kitchen, told through stories and recipes such as cabbage rolls baked in layers in a casserole, the Perfect Chocolate Cake (true to its name), and a chicken schnitzel with caramelized lemon gremolata. The author's voice is charming and inviting. Gelen was raised in Transylvania, Romania, by parents who experienced communism, dictators, and poverty. Yet during her childhood she and her mother replicated recipes from their favorite TV chefs. Her parents taught her that the only way to escape their life was to go to college. She enrolled in a computer science program, where she was miserable, and continued cooking as a diversion from her studies. During summer breaks she traveled to the United States and worked in restaurants, then, once home, began to create cooking videos. They caught the attention of the New York Times' Instagram page, which published them. Soon after, the website Food52 approached her about developing recipes. She began to glimpse the possibility of doing what she loved for a living and took a leap to immigrate to the United States in 2021. Her recipe for wide noodles, sweetly caramelized cabbage and plenty of onions, salted butter, and a hefty kick of cracked black pepper, is a childhood dish, inexpensive, creamy, filling, and comforting.
⅓ cup sunflower or grapeseed oil, or another neutral oil, and more if needed 1½ tablespoons coarsely crushed black peppercorns 3 medium yellow onions, halved and sliced 1/4-inch thick Salt, to taste 1 head (3 pounds) green cabbage, quartered, cored, and cut into 1/4-inch-wide slices 1 pound wide egg noodles, such as tagliatelle or pappardelle 12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) salted butter, at room temperature (for serving) Extra coarsely crushed black peppercorns (for garnish)
1. In a large flameproof casserole or Dutch oven over medium heat, heat the oil. Add the cracked pepper and cook, stirring, for about 1 minute, or until fragrant. Add the onions and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 6 to 8 minutes, or until translucent.
2. Add the cabbage and continue cooking, stirring often, for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the cabbage and onion are both golden brown and a golden crust forms at the bottom of the pan. If the pan looks dry, add 1 tablespoon of oil, or more, to help the cabbage fry and caramelize.
3. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the noodles and cook for 3 minutes less than the package directions. They should be slightly undercooked. Remove the pot from the heat. Do not drain.
4. With tongs or a slotted spoon, pull the pasta from the pot and add it to the cabbage and onions. Stir well. Add about 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water. Scrape the bottom of the pan to release the browned, flavorful bits. Add more pasta water if necessary, 1/4 cup at a time, to create a thin but silky sauce that clings to the noodles. Taste for seasoning and add more salt, if you like. Remove the pan from the heat.
