Latest news with #Firmenich
Elle
29-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Elle
I Asked Pro Perfumers to Help Me Find My Signature Scent—Here's What I Learned
Every item on this page was chosen by an ELLE editor. We may earn commission on some of the items you choose to buy. Finding your signature scent can feel a bit like dating—at times fun, others frustrating—but spending hours sniffing and spritzing is all worth it once you uncover the one. 'A signature scent is a fragrance that feels uniquely you—it complements your personality and reflects your style,' explains Firmenich Principal Perfumer Frank Voelkl, who has helped develop fragrances for brands like Glossier, Lancôme, and Calvin Klein. 'When someone has found a scent they love and wear every day to the point that we associate that particular scent to that individual, they have found their signature scent.' So, what's the key to uncovering a scent that feels like a true extension of you? According to Gabar perfumer Susan Wai Hnin, the first and most important step is understanding your scent preferences and how they fit into the main olfactory families. 'By testing out different fragrance families (i.e. floral, woody, fresh, amber, etc.), you'll get a better idea of your own palette and can narrow down your choices,' she says. Ahead, I've consulted Voelkl and Wai Hnin, as well as perfumers Delphine Jelk from Guerlain and Cherry Cheng from Jouissance, to learn all about the key olfactory families and how to find your signature scent. Keep scrolling to uncover your perfect match. 'Amber fragrances are known for their warmth and richness,' says Voelkl. 'They often have a sensual and long-lasting profile, built from ingredients like vanilla and offer balsamic, mineral, and ambergris-like notes.' According to Cheng, it's a scent profile that pairs very naturally with the human body. 'Amber, musk, and other animalic notes harmonize with your skin rather than mask it, which tends to meld beautifully with the body's natural scent,' she explains. A perfume that aptly fits this description is L'Air de Rien by Miller Harris. Originally created for Jane Birkin, Cheng recommends it for its slightly powdery, quietly provocative blend with notes of amber, musk, and moss. You're likely already familiar with Maison Francis Kurkdjian's popular Baccarat Rouge 540. If that scent feels too vibrant for you, the label's Grand Soir is a delicious alternative. An ambery, woody fragrance, it has a warm intensity that smells like bourbon and vanilla-baked goods on a candlelit night. Meanwhile, the name says it all with Guerlain's 'Tobacco Honey.' Perfect for those who enjoy smoky scents, it calls to mind images of cozying up by a crackling fireplace via notes of anise, cloves, oud, and honey. For a touch of sweetness, opt for Poets of Berlin by Vilhelm Parfumerie. Blending top notes of blueberry and lemon with base notes of vanilla and sandalwood, it's equal parts bright and homey. 'Floral scents tend to be soft and romantic and contain notes of tuberose, jasmine, lily of the valley, or gardenia,' says Wai Hnin. Still, floral perfumes are one of the most versatile types of fragrances, offered in a wide range of scents, from sweet to earthy to spicy, for both men and women. Chloé's Eau de Parfum, for example, combines honey and lychee for a more candied aroma. Hermès' Barénia Eau de Parfum, on the other hand, contrasts notes of fresh butterfly lily with oak and patchouli for a more grounded finish. On the spicier end of the spectrum, Byredo's Rose of No Man's Land is a great option. Seductively sweet notes of rose and raspberry blossom get a slight edge from pink pepper, woody papyrus, and white amber for a fragrance that's at once playful and mature. Bella Hadid's Orebella line also includes a standout floral-spicy option, which is a little more subdued. Called Blooming Fire, it boasts enticing notes of Tahitian monoi flowers, jasmine, and cedarwood. Let the perfume linger on your skin, and you'll start to notice the patchouli base note, too. If you prefer a darker, sultrier scent profile that develops on the skin over time, woodsy perfumes are a great place to start, advises Voelkl. 'These fragrances lean into deeper, earthy notes like sandalwood, cedarwood, vetiver, and patchouli. You can find them combined with musks or fruits for balance.' One classic example is Tom Ford's Noir Extreme, an intoxicatingly warm, spicy concoction of cardamom, amber, and tonka that's perfect for any adventurous types. Another cult-favorite is Maison Margiela's Replica, which quite literally smells like smoky fireplaces, chestnuts, and vanilla. It's an acquired taste, though; if you prefer woody scents with a touch of zestiness, Cartier's Déclaration Haute Fraîcheur will be right up your alley. It's delightfully fresh and uplifting, without being overtly feminine in case you prefer something more unisex. Lastly, I'd recommend Ellis Brooklyn's Myth, which I'd best describe as pure elegance. It's not overpowering, instead inspiring quiet confidence with soft notes of jasmine petals and tiger orchids. These florals lie on a bed of liquid musks and white cedarwood for a powdery, clean fragrance. Fruity scents are naturally some of the sweetest of the bunch. For some, this could be the sugar-rush they need to get through the day. For others, this could mean a headache by noon. It's important, therefore, to 'take your time and wear the scent on your skin for a day as fragrances evolve as you wear them,' says Voelkl. 'If you still love it by the end of the day, that's a good sign it might be the one.' Phlur's Apricot Privée Eau de Parfum opens with rich apricot and velvety plum, then dries down with a lovely floral blend of peonies and jasmine. It's a very playful option, much like the Loewe x Paula's Ibiza Cosmic Eau de Parfum, which basically smells like a vacation in a bottle. If you're someone who loves to travel, dance, and get high on life, this vibrant cocktail of mangoes and pears will be just right. Cartier's L'heures de Parfum Convoitee II is both deliciously fruity and floral, starring hints of juicy strawberry and delicate iris. But if you're really in the mood to enchant someone, Guerlain's Pêche Mirage Eau de Parfum is the potion to pick. The perfect summer scent, it offers sweet peach notes that blossom alongside underlying leather aromas. 'These fragrances encompass a wide range of airy, clean, and invigorating notes, including citrus, green herbs, marine notes or watery floras,' says Voelkl. 'Aquatic perfumes in particular capture the breezy essence of the ocean or a crisp lake. These scents are especially popular in warmer weather and are ideal for those who want something light, energizing, and easy to wear during the day.' The use of plants with aromatherapeutic properties, like eucalyptus and sandalwood, is common in this fragrance category, as evidenced by D.S. & Durga's Eucalyptus Eau de Parfum and Trudon's Aphélie Eau de Parfum, respectively. The latter also intertwines spicy cardamom and soft jasmine at its heart. Of course, a mention of the best fresh perfumes wouldn't be complete without Diptyque's Papier Eau de Toilette. This feel-good formula will essentially transport you to the Hamptons, featuring white musk and mimosa top and middle notes. As its name suggests, it's like a whisper on the skin. If a signature scent is an extension of your personality and aesthetic, then it's worth investing in one that speaks volumes. Enter: Bottega Veneta's Acqua Sale. Made to evoke the scent of saltwater, it combines top notes of juniper berry, black pepper, and mandarin oils with sea salt accord and vetiver oil—creating a kind of wet soil and fresh-cut grass smell.
Graziadaily
22-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Graziadaily
Our Honest Review Of Bella Hadid's Orebella Fragrance Line
Hot on the heels of her blonde bombshell debut at the Cannes Film Festival 2025, Bella Hadid has wasted no time making headlines once more, this time for the UK launch of her fragrance line, Orebella. After a buzzy initial release State-side, which left many of us Brits clamouring for the chance to try Hadid's first-ever foray into beauty, the wait is finally over - the brand has exclusively dropped at Selfridges, marking its first phase of international expansion. Pronounced 'aura-bella', Orebella (styled 'Ôrəbella) is made of four otherworldly looking scents: Window2Soul, Salted Muse, Blooming Fire and Nightcap. Even at first glance, this is no run-of-the-mill celebrity beauty brand. More sensorial than sickly sweet, Hadid's take on the fragrance world is loaded with intention. Leaning into her own personal experiences, the brand's ethos is set on redefining the fragrance category. Orabella leans into 'The Skinification of Scent' (or skin-first perfumes), where scent is reimagined as being a part of your skincare routine rather than the final beauty step of the day. The line up was consciously crafted as an answer to Hadid's own skin sensitivity to traditional fragrances. The innovative clean, vegan, alcohol-free offerings blends high-quality essential oils with a skin-loving base to create a 'bi-phase' formula, that's two layers: a top layer of aromatherapeutic essential oils and fine fragrances, and then the brand's proprietary scent-extending Ôrəlixir™ base, which boasts a nourishing cocktail of snow mushroom and five moisturising oils (think: camellia, jojoba and shea) that makes skin glow. Far from being a quick spritz-and-go, the nature of the fragrance means you'll need to take your time with it. First shake to activate, which combines both layers of the juice for seamless scent-filled application, then rub it into the skin for a grounding moment of self-care. The story behind the brand is one that is intrinsically personal to Hadid. Its origins story can be traced back to Hadid's family farm where she grew lavender and distilled oils to create her own essential oil blends and bespoke olfactive concoctions that functioned as healing rituals. But when turning, what she calls, her 'art project' into a fully fledged product, Hadid enlisted the industry's most esteemed noses from world-leading fragrance houses Firmenich and Robertet, to create a set of genderless and ageless scents that are inspired by nature and intended to enhance our individual auras. Sameeha Shaikh, beauty writer, says: 'By now we are almost always primed to anticipate a new celebrity beauty brand at any given moment, and while some feel like a failed attempt to capture the beauty zeitgeist, Orebella is anything but. If you've been following Bella Hadid on socials for as long as I have, the brand will feel entirely authentic. Whether it's the angel numbers she frequently posts on social media now being etched into each of the bottles or the fact that Salted Muse is inspired by her Palestinian heritage, her soulful and intentional approach from packaging to formula is immediately felt. As someone with very reactive skin, I was keen to see how the brand's revolutionary, first-of-its-kind skin perfumes would perform on my skin type and I'm happy to report they did not disappoint. Once you shake the bottle to combine the dual layered formula, the mist spritzes much like any other perfume but leaves a nourishing, comfortable second skin veil that smells refined and sophisticated. I immediately took to the brand's aphrodisiac Nightcap, which brims with warm cardamom, creamy vanilla and earthy sandalwood and leaves a slight sheen to the skin. While full bodied and potent as far as ingredients are concerned, the scent develops subtly and slowly for a wholly uplifting experience.' 1. Orebella Nightcap Eau de Parfum What the brand says: A revolution in the fragrance category, Orebella blends clean, vegan, and alcohol-free parfum with skincare-quality ingredients for fragrances that hydrate and cater to sensitive skin. The skin perfumes are long-lasting, develop throughout the day and provide an energy shifting sensorial experience. What we know: All four fragrances: Window2Soul, a sheer floral; Salted Muse, a woody marine; Blooming Fire, a warm floral; and Nightcap, a more-ish spicy scent, are formulated with bi-phase' formula : a top layer of aromatherapeutic essential oils and fine fragrances, and then the brand's proprietary scent- extending Ôrəlixir™ base, which boasts a nourishing cocktail of snow mushroom and five moisturising oils (think: camellia, jojoba and shea) that makes skin glow. Sameeha Shaikh, beauty writer, says: 'As someone with very reactive skin, I was keen to see how the brand's revolutionary, first-of-its-kind skin perfumes would perform and I'm happy to report they did not disappoint. Once you shake the bottle to combine the dual layers, the mist spritzes much like any other perfume but leaves a nourishing, comfortable second skin veil that smells refined and sophisticated. I immediately took to the brand's aphrodisiac Nightcap, which brims with warm cardamom, creamy vanilla and earthy sandalwood and leaves a slight sheen to the skin. While full bodied and potent as far as ingredients are concerned, the scent develops subtly and slowly for a wholly uplifting experience.' Pros Formulated for sensitive skin The first-of-its-kind perfume keeps skin hydrated with a long-lasting scent Cons Bottle cap can be tricky to remove Sameeha Shaikh is Grazia's beauty writer, covering all categories to bring you insights on the latest trends, industry news and the products you need to know about, viral or not (most probably viral).
Forbes
10-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Forbes
Why couture fragrance collections are being created by luxury brands
YSL Beauty's Muse is the newest addition to its Vestiaire de Parfum couture fragrance collection. Inky accord Muse, YSL Beauty's newest fragrance is the latest addition to the house's Vestiaire de Parfums, the unisex couture fragrance collection that debuted 2015. The scent created by Master Perfumer Marie Salamagne, is a smoky, woody ink accord. Top notes are clary sage, lavender and incense; middle notes are orris, bourbon vanilla and ambrette with base notes of amberwood and ink Salamagne compares the blend to both to paper and skin. "The ink reveals enigmatic woody notes, intimate and elegant smoky facets. It veils the skin in subtle dark, metallic tones, slightly iris-y, earthy. For me, the ink takes on the colors of creativity and mystery. It stimulates the imagination.' Salamagne, principal perfumer at Firmenich, is the nose behind a host of olfactory hits including the Alaïa fragrances, Gucci's Flora Gorgeous Orchid, Rabanne's Fame, Infiniment Coty's Santal à La Vida, and, most recently, Nina Ricci's Rouge Crush which was introduced this year. The Vestiaire de Parfums with scents including Caftan, Trench, Caban and Tuxedo, is inspired by emblematic items that define the house's history. YSL Beauty describes the line as 'an olfactory interpretation of the couturier's iconic pieces, materials and emblematic addresses, crafted by the most renowned perfumers.' The collection is crafted by some of the world's top perfumers. Alongside Salamagne are olfactory hard hitters like Quentin Bisch, Carlos Benaim, Alberto Morillas, Amandine Marie, Dominique Ropion, Annick Menardo, Fabrice Pellegrin and Julie Massé. They hail from leading fragrance outfits IFF, Givaudan and Firmenich. Muse is a tribute to the artists, models and friends—from Paloma Picasso to Betty Catroux and Lulu de la Falaise—with whom Monsieur Saint Laurent surrounded himself and who provided a major source of inspiration. The eponymous house founder would sketch them in ink and use said sketches as the basis for many of his collections. 'Muse brought about a unique opportunity,' YSL Beauty President Stephen Bezy told me. While previous Le Vestiaire des Parfums fragrances drew from specific Saint Laurent designs, Muse is an ode to the sources of his inspiration—confident, convention-defying women." 'Le Vestiaire des Parfums is crafted by the world's finest perfumers who deeply understand the YSL heritage and are able to translate this into olfactory art,' says Bezy. "Through this positioning we are connecting with the consumer's aspirations and sense of style. We are not just selling a fragrance; we are selling a piece of YSL history." Operated under licence by L'Oreal, when it launched the Vestiaire in 2015, YSL Beauty was an early adopter of the trend for unisex, high end 'haute couture' fragrance collections that highlight the codes of their respective fashion houses—further aligning the ties between the fashion and perfume arms of the businesses making for stronger brand equity overall. The movement has since gained exponential traction with notable launches in 2024 from Valentino, Fendi and Rabanne. Valentino's Anatomy of Dreams featured seven juices by different master perfumers housed in flaçons with caps of studded glass echoing the house's emblematic metal rivets and canvas labels like the fabric of haute couture boxes. A highlight is Fabrice Pellegrin's Sogno in Rosso—a blend of black pepper with milk foam accord. La Collection Rabanne's eight scents by six master perfumers celebrate dates, places and fabrics integral to the maison. For instance the lime, orange blossom and ambergris Mesh Metal by Fanny Bal recalls the house's famous silver chain mail creations. Likewise, Fendi's seven exclusive fragrances each evoke a character, a place, or maison milestone such as Anne Flipo's La Baguette, a powdery floral ode to the bag created by Silvia Venturini Fendi in 1997. According to Bezy, fragrance is far more than just a scent, it's an 'extension of identity.' From a consumer point of view, he attributes the rising interest in high-end fragrance collections to a desire for individuality. 'It's about crafting a personal olfactory signature,' he says. The allure is also down to exclusivity, he adds. 'They're carefully curated and intentionally selective in their distribution. Scarcity fuels desire, but more importantly, it allows us to elevate the entire client experience.'
Reuters
24-02-2025
- Business
- Reuters
Global fragrance makers must face price-fixing case, US judge rules
Feb 24 (Reuters) - Four European and American fragrance makers must face lawsuits accusing them of conspiring to inflate prices of ingredients used to make cosmetics, cleaners and other household products, a federal judge in New Jersey has ruled, opens new tab. U.S. District Judge William Martini on Friday rejected efforts by the companies — Switzerland-based Givaudan and Firmenich, which has merged with DSM Group; U.S.-based International Flavors & Fragrances and Germany's Symrise — to dismiss three proposed class action lawsuits filed in 2023 by consumers and other buyers. The lawsuits, alleging an illegal price-fixing conspiracy, came after EU investigators in 2023 announced an antitrust investigation of some major fragrance makers. The judge dismissed some state-based allegations but will allow those plaintiffs to file an amended lawsuit within 30 days. Givaudan, Symrise, Firmenich and International Flavors & Fragrances did not immediately respond to requests for comment. They have denied any wrongdoing. Attorneys for buyers did not immediately respond to similar requests. Martini is presiding over cases filed by consumers, companies that purchased products directly from the defendants, and 'indirect' buyers that purchased fragrance ingredients and compounds from sellers other than the defendants. Sales of fragrance ingredients reached $9.1 billion in 2022, according to the plaintiffs, who alleged that the fragrance market was highly concentrated and 'more susceptible to collusion and other anticompetitive practices.' The fragrance companies in seeking dismissal of the lawsuits argued that the plaintiffs failed to offer adequate evidence of a conspiracy to fix prices. 'The ambition of plaintiffs' claims stands in sharp contrast to the paucity of their factual allegations,' the companies told the judge. They said the lawsuits were 'based on nothing more than reports of government inquiries into the fragrance industry.' European antitrust investigators said in June 2024 that their fragrance industry probe was ongoing. The cases are In re: Fragrance Direct Purchaser Antitrust Litigation, U.S. District Court for the District of New Jersey, No. 2:23-cv-02174-WJM-JSA; In re: Fragrance Indirect Purchaser Antitrust Litigation, No. 2:23-cv-03249-WJM-JSA; and In re: Fragrance End-User Plaintiff Antitrust Litigation, No. 2:23-cv-16127-WJM-JSA.
