I Asked Pro Perfumers to Help Me Find My Signature Scent—Here's What I Learned

Elle

6 days ago

Every item on this page was chosen by an ELLE editor. We may earn commission on some of the items you choose to buy.
Finding your signature scent can feel a bit like dating—at times fun, others frustrating—but spending hours sniffing and spritzing is all worth it once you uncover the one. 'A signature scent is a fragrance that feels uniquely you—it complements your personality and reflects your style,' explains Firmenich Principal Perfumer Frank Voelkl, who has helped develop fragrances for brands like Glossier, Lancôme, and Calvin Klein. 'When someone has found a scent they love and wear every day to the point that we associate that particular scent to that individual, they have found their signature scent.'
So, what's the key to uncovering a scent that feels like a true extension of you? According to Gabar perfumer Susan Wai Hnin, the first and most important step is understanding your scent preferences and how they fit into the main olfactory families. 'By testing out different fragrance families (i.e. floral, woody, fresh, amber, etc.), you'll get a better idea of your own palette and can narrow down your choices,' she says.
Ahead, I've consulted Voelkl and Wai Hnin, as well as perfumers Delphine Jelk from Guerlain and Cherry Cheng from Jouissance, to learn all about the key olfactory families and how to find your signature scent. Keep scrolling to uncover your perfect match.
'Amber fragrances are known for their warmth and richness,' says Voelkl. 'They often have a sensual and long-lasting profile, built from ingredients like vanilla and offer balsamic, mineral, and ambergris-like notes.' According to Cheng, it's a scent profile that pairs very naturally with the human body. 'Amber, musk, and other animalic notes harmonize with your skin rather than mask it, which tends to meld beautifully with the body's natural scent,' she explains. A perfume that aptly fits this description is L'Air de Rien by Miller Harris. Originally created for Jane Birkin, Cheng recommends it for its slightly powdery, quietly provocative blend with notes of amber, musk, and moss.
You're likely already familiar with Maison Francis Kurkdjian's popular Baccarat Rouge 540. If that scent feels too vibrant for you, the label's Grand Soir is a delicious alternative. An ambery, woody fragrance, it has a warm intensity that smells like bourbon and vanilla-baked goods on a candlelit night. Meanwhile, the name says it all with Guerlain's 'Tobacco Honey.' Perfect for those who enjoy smoky scents, it calls to mind images of cozying up by a crackling fireplace via notes of anise, cloves, oud, and honey. For a touch of sweetness, opt for Poets of Berlin by Vilhelm Parfumerie. Blending top notes of blueberry and lemon with base notes of vanilla and sandalwood, it's equal parts bright and homey.
'Floral scents tend to be soft and romantic and contain notes of tuberose, jasmine, lily of the valley, or gardenia,' says Wai Hnin. Still, floral perfumes are one of the most versatile types of fragrances, offered in a wide range of scents, from sweet to earthy to spicy, for both men and women. Chloé's Eau de Parfum, for example, combines honey and lychee for a more candied aroma. Hermès' Barénia Eau de Parfum, on the other hand, contrasts notes of fresh butterfly lily with oak and patchouli for a more grounded finish. On the spicier end of the spectrum, Byredo's Rose of No Man's Land is a great option. Seductively sweet notes of rose and raspberry blossom get a slight edge from pink pepper, woody papyrus, and white amber for a fragrance that's at once playful and mature.
Bella Hadid's Orebella line also includes a standout floral-spicy option, which is a little more subdued. Called Blooming Fire, it boasts enticing notes of Tahitian monoi flowers, jasmine, and cedarwood. Let the perfume linger on your skin, and you'll start to notice the patchouli base note, too.
If you prefer a darker, sultrier scent profile that develops on the skin over time, woodsy perfumes are a great place to start, advises Voelkl. 'These fragrances lean into deeper, earthy notes like sandalwood, cedarwood, vetiver, and patchouli. You can find them combined with musks or fruits for balance.' One classic example is Tom Ford's Noir Extreme, an intoxicatingly warm, spicy concoction of cardamom, amber, and tonka that's perfect for any adventurous types.
Another cult-favorite is Maison Margiela's Replica, which quite literally smells like smoky fireplaces, chestnuts, and vanilla. It's an acquired taste, though; if you prefer woody scents with a touch of zestiness, Cartier's Déclaration Haute Fraîcheur will be right up your alley. It's delightfully fresh and uplifting, without being overtly feminine in case you prefer something more unisex. Lastly, I'd recommend Ellis Brooklyn's Myth, which I'd best describe as pure elegance. It's not overpowering, instead inspiring quiet confidence with soft notes of jasmine petals and tiger orchids. These florals lie on a bed of liquid musks and white cedarwood for a powdery, clean fragrance.
Fruity scents are naturally some of the sweetest of the bunch. For some, this could be the sugar-rush they need to get through the day. For others, this could mean a headache by noon. It's important, therefore, to 'take your time and wear the scent on your skin for a day as fragrances evolve as you wear them,' says Voelkl. 'If you still love it by the end of the day, that's a good sign it might be the one.'
Phlur's Apricot Privée Eau de Parfum opens with rich apricot and velvety plum, then dries down with a lovely floral blend of peonies and jasmine. It's a very playful option, much like the Loewe x Paula's Ibiza Cosmic Eau de Parfum, which basically smells like a vacation in a bottle. If you're someone who loves to travel, dance, and get high on life, this vibrant cocktail of mangoes and pears will be just right. Cartier's L'heures de Parfum Convoitee II is both deliciously fruity and floral, starring hints of juicy strawberry and delicate iris. But if you're really in the mood to enchant someone, Guerlain's Pêche Mirage Eau de Parfum is the potion to pick. The perfect summer scent, it offers sweet peach notes that blossom alongside underlying leather aromas.
'These fragrances encompass a wide range of airy, clean, and invigorating notes, including citrus, green herbs, marine notes or watery floras,' says Voelkl. 'Aquatic perfumes in particular capture the breezy essence of the ocean or a crisp lake. These scents are especially popular in warmer weather and are ideal for those who want something light, energizing, and easy to wear during the day.'
The use of plants with aromatherapeutic properties, like eucalyptus and sandalwood, is common in this fragrance category, as evidenced by D.S. & Durga's Eucalyptus Eau de Parfum and Trudon's Aphélie Eau de Parfum, respectively. The latter also intertwines spicy cardamom and soft jasmine at its heart. Of course, a mention of the best fresh perfumes wouldn't be complete without Diptyque's Papier Eau de Toilette. This feel-good formula will essentially transport you to the Hamptons, featuring white musk and mimosa top and middle notes. As its name suggests, it's like a whisper on the skin.
If a signature scent is an extension of your personality and aesthetic, then it's worth investing in one that speaks volumes. Enter: Bottega Veneta's Acqua Sale. Made to evoke the scent of saltwater, it combines top notes of juniper berry, black pepper, and mandarin oils with sea salt accord and vetiver oil—creating a kind of wet soil and fresh-cut grass smell.