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Fashion United
4 days ago
- Entertainment
- Fashion United
Creative direction reshuffle: Does the trust between CEO and creative director have an expiration date?
With Maria Grazia Chiuri's departure from Dior now official, new appointments are anticipated. It seems as though all that is missing is the station master's whistle and the call of 'all aboard' to begin this latest journey towards a new creative direction in luxury fashion. We are witnessing a continuous reshuffling of creative directors; only a few weeks ago, news broke that Pierpaolo Piccioli, after years at the helm of Valentino–eight of these alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri, who left the brand in 2016 to join Dior–was moving to Balenciaga (Kering). A year prior, Alessandro Michele took the creative lead at Valentino, after Piccioli's departure in 2024. Michele left Gucci in 2022, subsequently replaced by Sabato De Sarno, who served as the Florentine brand's creative director from 2023 to February 2025, shortly before Demna Gvasalia's appointment. Gvasalia, in turn, vacated the position at Balenciaga, which was then 'assigned' to Piccioli. We'll stop here, but the merry-go-round of appointments in recent months has, of course, been much more extensive. It is perhaps worth remembering the arrival of Dutch designer Duran Lantink as the new permanent creative director of Jean Paul Gaultier, perhaps one of the few truly new entries into the Olympus of fashion in recent times. Not that Lantink is a novice; on the contrary, the designer, already shortlisted for the LVMH Prize in 2019 and winner of this year's Woolmark Prize, has designed pieces for artists such as Beyonce, Doja Cat, Paris Hilton, Billie Eilish, and Solange. Let's just say he's a fresher name. Sabato De Sarno Credits: Courtesy of Gucci, ph Riccardo Raspa The question that arises at this moment, however, is not so much whether in fashion, as in cinema, there is a famous 'inner circle' of names that move from one label to another yet always remain in the spotlight at one brand or another, but how much this sometimes frantic alternation can really contribute to the growth of brands. Or whether it contributes to the loss of the label's DNA and the partial recycling of loyal customers (who no longer recognise themselves in the brand), rather than a real expansion of the target audience, which is what, hopefully, the top management of the brands that move creative directors from one brand to another are aiming for. There is no shortage of choice, given that in LVMH's fashion and leather goods division alone, there are Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Celine, Loewe, Kenzo, Givenchy, Fendi, Emilio Pucci, Marc Jacobs, Berluti, Loro Piana, Rimowa and Patou; while Kering today has, in the fashion segment, Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, McQueen and Brioni. Kering deputy CEO: 'There must be mutual trust between CEO and creative director' In this regard, on May 22 in Milan, during the Changemakers in luxury fashion meeting, organised by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) and Zalando, Francesca Bellettini, Kering's deputy CEO, stressed: 'There must be mutual trust between the CEO and creative director, but each must have their role with mutual respect.' In complex times like the ones luxury is going through, brands must be true to their DNA and 'generate appeal and desirability thanks to creative directors'. But this trust, instead of consolidating over time, season after season, seems undermined in a short time and influenced by a turnover that, these days, has to do with the crisis, weak demand and the complicated geopolitical situation. Even the authenticity, transparency and coherence demanded by consumers and mentioned just two days ago by Matteo Lunelli, president of Altagamma, during the foundation's shareholders' meeting, do not always seem to be at the top of the list of priorities for brands. Pierpaolo Piccioli, creative director of Balenciaga Credits: Courtesy of Kering and Balenciaga, ph David Sims Demna Credits: Courtesy of Kering This article was translated to English using an AI tool. FashionUnited uses AI language tools to speed up translating (news) articles and proofread the translations to improve the end result. This saves our human journalists time they can spend doing research and writing original articles. Articles translated with the help of AI are checked and edited by a human desk editor prior to going online. If you have questions or comments about this process email us at info@
Fashion Network
6 days ago
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Japanese label Children of the Discordance to stage show at Pitti Uomo
Japanese brand Children of the Discordance will take the spotlight at Florence's Pitti Uomo with a fashion show scheduled for the evening of Tuesday, June 17, at the Stazione Leopolda. Organized in collaboration with the Japan Fashion Week Organization, the event highlights Children of the Discordance as the special feature of the upcoming edition of Pitti Uomo (June 17–20). The brand will also be featured at the Florentine trade show with a dedicated space inside the Fortezza da Basso, as part of the 'Futuro Maschile' section, which focuses on contemporary menswear. 'Children of the Discordance is one of the brands we've been watching most closely over the past few seasons,' said Francesca Tacconi, special events coordinator at Pitti Immagine. 'Since its debut at Pitti Uomo a few years ago under the Tokyo Fashion Award banner, we've appreciated founder Hideaki Shikama's independent vision and his ability to merge archival elements with the fast-paced language of streetwear—all through a forward-looking design lens.' 'We've been part of the Pitti community ever since we won the Tokyo Fashion Award eight years ago. Today, I'm truly grateful for the chance to return five years later to present my collection in a runway show at the event that helped grow my business partnerships. My pieces draw inspiration from the complex cultural landscape I experienced growing up in a Japanese port city like Yokohama, and I try to infuse that cultural essence into every piece I create,' said Hideaki Shikama. Born in 1980, Hideaki Shikama founded Children of the Discordance in 2011 and won the Tokyo Fashion Award in 2017. He has previously presented his collections in Tokyo, New York and Paris. His fashion career began in 2005 when he was appointed director of Acycle, a multibrand store in Harajuku, Tokyo. The Children of the Discordance runway show adds another high-profile highlight to the already rich calendar of Pitti Uomo's summer edition, which also includes appearances by Issey Miyake, Paf-Post Archive Faction and Niccolò Pasqualetti.
Fashion Network
6 days ago
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Japanese label Children of the Discordance to stage show at Pitti Uomo
Japanese brand Children of the Discordance will take the spotlight at Florence's Pitti Uomo with a fashion show scheduled for the evening of Tuesday, June 17, at the Stazione Leopolda. Organized in collaboration with the Japan Fashion Week Organization, the event highlights Children of the Discordance as the special feature of the upcoming edition of Pitti Uomo (June 17–20). The brand will also be featured at the Florentine trade show with a dedicated space inside the Fortezza da Basso, as part of the 'Futuro Maschile' section, which focuses on contemporary menswear. 'Children of the Discordance is one of the brands we've been watching most closely over the past few seasons,' said Francesca Tacconi, special events coordinator at Pitti Immagine. 'Since its debut at Pitti Uomo a few years ago under the Tokyo Fashion Award banner, we've appreciated founder Hideaki Shikama's independent vision and his ability to merge archival elements with the fast-paced language of streetwear—all through a forward-looking design lens.' 'We've been part of the Pitti community ever since we won the Tokyo Fashion Award eight years ago. Today, I'm truly grateful for the chance to return five years later to present my collection in a runway show at the event that helped grow my business partnerships. My pieces draw inspiration from the complex cultural landscape I experienced growing up in a Japanese port city like Yokohama, and I try to infuse that cultural essence into every piece I create,' said Hideaki Shikama. Born in 1980, Hideaki Shikama founded Children of the Discordance in 2011 and won the Tokyo Fashion Award in 2017. He has previously presented his collections in Tokyo, New York and Paris. His fashion career began in 2005 when he was appointed director of Acycle, a multibrand store in Harajuku, Tokyo. The Children of the Discordance runway show adds another high-profile highlight to the already rich calendar of Pitti Uomo's summer edition, which also includes appearances by Issey Miyake, Paf-Post Archive Faction and Niccolò Pasqualetti.
Fashion Network
6 days ago
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Japanese label Children of the Discordance to stage show at Pitti Uomo
Japanese brand Children of the Discordance will take the spotlight at Florence's Pitti Uomo with a fashion show scheduled for the evening of Tuesday, June 17, at the Stazione Leopolda. Organized in collaboration with the Japan Fashion Week Organization, the event highlights Children of the Discordance as the special feature of the upcoming edition of Pitti Uomo (June 17–20). The brand will also be featured at the Florentine trade show with a dedicated space inside the Fortezza da Basso, as part of the 'Futuro Maschile' section, which focuses on contemporary menswear. 'Children of the Discordance is one of the brands we've been watching most closely over the past few seasons,' said Francesca Tacconi, special events coordinator at Pitti Immagine. 'Since its debut at Pitti Uomo a few years ago under the Tokyo Fashion Award banner, we've appreciated founder Hideaki Shikama's independent vision and his ability to merge archival elements with the fast-paced language of streetwear—all through a forward-looking design lens.' 'We've been part of the Pitti community ever since we won the Tokyo Fashion Award eight years ago. Today, I'm truly grateful for the chance to return five years later to present my collection in a runway show at the event that helped grow my business partnerships. My pieces draw inspiration from the complex cultural landscape I experienced growing up in a Japanese port city like Yokohama, and I try to infuse that cultural essence into every piece I create,' said Hideaki Shikama. Born in 1980, Hideaki Shikama founded Children of the Discordance in 2011 and won the Tokyo Fashion Award in 2017. He has previously presented his collections in Tokyo, New York and Paris. His fashion career began in 2005 when he was appointed director of Acycle, a multibrand store in Harajuku, Tokyo. The Children of the Discordance runway show adds another high-profile highlight to the already rich calendar of Pitti Uomo's summer edition, which also includes appearances by Issey Miyake, Paf-Post Archive Faction and Niccolò Pasqualetti.
Fashion Network
6 days ago
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Japanese label Children of the Discordance to stage show at Pitti Uomo
Japanese brand Children of the Discordance will take the spotlight at Florence's Pitti Uomo with a fashion show scheduled for the evening of Tuesday, June 17, at the Stazione Leopolda. Organized in collaboration with the Japan Fashion Week Organization, the event highlights Children of the Discordance as the special feature of the upcoming edition of Pitti Uomo (June 17–20). The brand will also be featured at the Florentine trade show with a dedicated space inside the Fortezza da Basso, as part of the 'Futuro Maschile' section, which focuses on contemporary menswear. 'Children of the Discordance is one of the brands we've been watching most closely over the past few seasons,' said Francesca Tacconi, special events coordinator at Pitti Immagine. 'Since its debut at Pitti Uomo a few years ago under the Tokyo Fashion Award banner, we've appreciated founder Hideaki Shikama's independent vision and his ability to merge archival elements with the fast-paced language of streetwear—all through a forward-looking design lens.' 'We've been part of the Pitti community ever since we won the Tokyo Fashion Award eight years ago. Today, I'm truly grateful for the chance to return five years later to present my collection in a runway show at the event that helped grow my business partnerships. My pieces draw inspiration from the complex cultural landscape I experienced growing up in a Japanese port city like Yokohama, and I try to infuse that cultural essence into every piece I create,' said Hideaki Shikama. Born in 1980, Hideaki Shikama founded Children of the Discordance in 2011 and won the Tokyo Fashion Award in 2017. He has previously presented his collections in Tokyo, New York and Paris. His fashion career began in 2005 when he was appointed director of Acycle, a multibrand store in Harajuku, Tokyo. The Children of the Discordance runway show adds another high-profile highlight to the already rich calendar of Pitti Uomo's summer edition, which also includes appearances by Issey Miyake
