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Irish Times
26-05-2025
- Irish Times
Visit Copenhagen: Great food, self-assured style and bicycles in Denmark's capital
It's the bicycles you notice first when you arrive after the 15-minute journey by metro from Copenhagen Airport into Kongens Nytorv, the large cobbled square in Copenhagen city centre. Cycling with confidence and speed along cycle lanes that run between the footpaths and roads, these bipedal owners seem to be going in all directions but the pedestrians, bus drivers and the trickle of cars seem to understand the hierarchy. The bicycle is king in the Danish capital, and you'll see adults carrying children, shopping and sometimes even another adult on their bikes. We even witnessed two people transporting a sofa on a large front carrier of a bicycle during our visit. Copenhagen is one of the best cycling cities in the world, and is nearing its goal of becoming a carbon neutral city by 2025 with more cyclists than cars. READ MORE Although smartphones have made paper maps almost obsolete for most of us, one of my favourite things to do when I arrive in a new city is to wander aimlessly with a paper map. Somehow it gives you a different perspective on the city, Copenhagen included, allowing you to discover a low-key place to eat along the interconnecting lakes that divide the city centre (Indre By) to Norrebro in the north, or a stylish coffee shop in the elegant streets of Frederiksberg in the west, or the vintage shops in the slightly grittier streets of Vesterbro in the south. We spent our first day of three walking through elegant palace yards (and even caught the formal changing of the guard, which happens at noon every day at Amalienborg Palace), along pedestrian shopping streets, into city gardens, past monumental museums and crossing over canals. Copenhagen: Nyhavn at sunset. Photograph: iStock There is plenty to see in Copenhagen beyond the brightly coloured facades of restaurants and bars in Nyhavn, the new harbour area, which is a magnet for tourists. And since the city streets aren't dominated by motorised vehicles, spending time here is a less stressful experience than in other car-clogged places. But all those bicycles are hard to ignore, so we decided to do as the Danes do and hired some on day two. Travelling at a slower pace than the locals, cycling allowed us to cover more ground and explore further. We opted to cycle north of Nyhavn along the harbour side to see the statue of the Little Mermaid, one of the symbols of Copenhagen. Perched on a rock near Churchill Park, the tiny sculpture by Edward Eriksen was inspired by ballerina Ellen Price, who in 1909 danced the leading role in a ballet based on the Hans Christian Andersen's 19th-century fairy tale. The Little Mermaid at the harbour in Copenhagen on October 9, 2015. Photograph: Odd Andersen/AFP via Getty Bicycles are a great way to explore the outer reaches of the city too. And while Christianshavn, with its famous hippie quarter, Freetown Christiania, is perhaps not as relaxed as it was in previous decades (Pusher Street, where cannabis was openly sold despite being illegal in Denmark, was closed down in 2024 after gang-related violence), it still draws tourists. Freetown Christiania. Photograph: Getty We cycled north to the former industrial site at Refshaleoen, passing by the world-famous restaurant Noma, in its low-key site surrounded by glasshouses and wetlands. We were in awe of the new residential buildings in this expanding quarter. Onwards we went to see the floating student houses at Urban Ritter, passing another urban farm and one of Copenhagen's coolest restaurants, La Banchina. Gro Spiseri, also surrounded by an urban farm in Osterbro district, is another popular eating spot with sustainability credentials. And, not to be overshadowed, Copenhagen's waste to energy plant, Copenhill – another short cycle away – also attracts visitors to ski down its purpose-built ski slope or rock climb, and the views are spectacular from its rooftop cafe on a clear day. This whole Amager quarter has undergone urban renewal with lots of striking residential buildings. Although we arrived too early in the season to indulge in the warm evening atmosphere, I have fond memories of a previous visit, sitting close to the stunning Opera House, eating street food from the popular, Reffen Street Food Market. Broens Street Food (Bridge Street Kitchen), just over the Inderhavn's bridge on the Christiania side, is another popular outdoor eating spot where everyone can grab a dish of their choice. The indoors Tivoli Food Market near the central train station is an good option for rainy days. Smørrebrød – open sandwiches with rye bread loaded high with everything from herring to roast beef – are a must. Smørrebrød with prawns, chives, dill, lemon slices and edible flowers. Photograph: Getty Organic food is a big thing in Denmark; a quarter of all food sold in Copenhagen is organic, and due to a a government policy, it makes up 88 per cent of food served in schools, hospitals and other public institutions. We didn't have deep enough pockets to sample the many Michelin star restaurants, but the pastries in the artisan bakeries were too hard to resist. A cube-shaped pastry filled with pistachio cream and an excellent almond croissant were among the highlights. There is also a rich choice of museums – from Danish 19th- and 20th-century art in the Hirschspurng Collection just north of the National Gallery, to the Museum of Danish Resistance, to the tiny Happiness Museum with its focus on wellbeing and quality of life. Although it rains a lot and the winters are long, the Danes are deemed to be among the happiest nationalities in the world. We opted to visit the Danish Design Museum, housed in a former city-centre hospital with a stunning courtyard garden. With exhibitions on patterns, lamps and table setting through the ages and 19th- and 20th-century chairs, it is a great place to gain an understanding of the key principles of Danish design, which first came to international prominence in the mid 1950s and continues to flourish. Copenhagen takes its design seriously, and although you mightn't get beyond a glimpse through apartment windows to see how the residents live, you can wander through the numerous furniture design showrooms antique shops, clothing boutiques and art galleries at your leisure. If you have more time, there are lots of other museums, including the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, which would require a day trip from the city centre. And, as mentioned, the contemporary architecture in this city is so striking that Copenhagen is the Unesco-UIA World Capital of Architecture from 2023-2026. You'll see most of it as you wander by, but essential buildings to keep an eye out for include the Black Diamond Royal Library on the harbour, the nearby Blox Danish Architecture Centre, the Royal Danish Playhouse and of course the Opera House. Finally, if you're travelling in the summer months, pack your swimming gear and join locals in one of the seven swimming spots on the harbour. Proud of the cleanliness of the harbour water, taking a lunchtime dip is as popular as weekend trips to places such as Island Brygge. You can also rent boats ( ) to tour the harbour and canals in your own time afterwards.
Irish Times
26-05-2025
- Irish Times
Visit Copenhagen to unlock the secrets to happiness: great food, self-assured style and bicycles
It's the bicycles you notice first when you arrive after the 15-minute journey by metro from Copenhagen Airport into Kongens Nytorv, the large cobbled square in Copenhagen city centre. Cycling with confidence and speed along cycle lanes that run between the footpaths and roads, these bipedal owners seem to be going in all directions but the pedestrians, bus drivers and the trickle of cars seem to understand the hierarchy. The bicycle is king in the Danish capital, and you'll see adults carrying children, shopping and sometimes even another adult on their bikes. We even witnessed two people transporting a sofa on a large front carrier of a bicycle during our visit. Copenhagen is one of the best cycling cities in the world, and is nearing its goal of becoming a carbon neutral city by 2025 with more cyclists than cars. READ MORE Although smartphones have made paper maps almost obsolete for most of us, one of my favourite things to do when I arrive in a new city is to wander aimlessly with a paper map. Somehow it gives you a different perspective on the city, Copenhagen included, allowing you to discover a low-key place to eat along the interconnecting lakes that divide the city centre (Indre By) to Norrebro in the north, or a stylish coffee shop in the elegant streets of Frederiksberg in the west, or the vintage shops in the slightly grittier streets of Vesterbro in the south. We spent our first day of three walking through elegant palace yards (and even caught the formal changing of the guard, which happens at noon every day at Amalienborg Palace), along pedestrian shopping streets, into city gardens, past monumental museums and crossing over canals. Copenhagen: Nyhavn at sunset. Photograph: iStock There is plenty to see in Copenhagen beyond the brightly coloured facades of restaurants and bars in Nyhavn, the new harbour area, which is a magnet for tourists. And since the city streets aren't dominated by motorised vehicles, spending time here is a less stressful experience than in other car-clogged places. But all those bicycles are hard to ignore, so we decided to do as the Danes do and hired some on day two. Travelling at a slower pace than the locals, cycling allowed us to cover more ground and explore further. We opted to cycle north of Nyhavn along the harbour side to see the statue of the Little Mermaid, one of the symbols of Copenhagen. Perched on a rock near Churchill Park, the tiny sculpture by Edward Eriksen was inspired by ballerina Ellen Price, who in 1909 danced the leading role in a ballet based on the Hans Christian Andersen's 19th-century fairy tale. The Little Mermaid at the harbour in Copenhagen on October 9, 2015. Photograph: Odd Andersen/AFP via Getty Bicycles are a great way to explore the outer reaches of the city too. And while Christianshavn, with its famous hippie quarter, Freetown Christiania, is perhaps not as relaxed as it was in previous decades (Pusher Street, where cannabis was openly sold despite being illegal in Denmark, was closed down in 2024 after gang-related violence), it still draws tourists. Freetown Christiania. Photograph: Getty We cycled north to the former industrial site at Refshaleoen, passing by the world-famous restaurant Noma, in its low-key site surrounded by glasshouses and wetlands. We were in awe of the new residential buildings in this expanding quarter. Onwards we went to see the floating student houses at Urban Ritter, passing another urban farm and one of Copenhagen's coolest restaurants, La Banchina. Gro Spiseri, also surrounded by an urban farm in Osterbro district, is another popular eating spot with sustainability credentials. And, not to be overshadowed, Copenhagen's waste to energy plant, Copenhill – another short cycle away – also attracts visitors to ski down its purpose-built ski slope or rock climb, and the views are spectacular from its rooftop cafe on a clear day. This whole Amager quarter has undergone urban renewal with lots of striking residential buildings. Although we arrived too early in the season to indulge in the warm evening atmosphere, I have fond memories of a previous visit, sitting close to the stunning Opera House, eating street food from the popular, Reffen Street Food Market. Broens Street Food (Bridge Street Kitchen), just over the Inderhavn's bridge on the Christiania side, is another popular outdoor eating spot where everyone can grab a dish of their choice. The indoors Tivoli Food Market near the central train station is an good option for rainy days. Smørrebrød – open sandwiches with rye bread loaded high with everything from herring to roast beef – are a must. Smørrebrød with prawns, chives, dill, lemon slices and edible flowers. Photograph: Getty Organic food is a big thing in Denmark; a quarter of all food sold in Copenhagen is organic, and due to a a government policy, it makes up 88 per cent of food served in schools, hospitals and other public institutions. We didn't have deep enough pockets to sample the many Michelin star restaurants, but the pastries in the artisan bakeries were too hard to resist. A cube-shaped pastry filled with pistachio cream and an excellent almond croissant were among the highlights. There is also a rich choice of museums – from Danish 19th- and 20th-century art in the Hirschspurng Collection just north of the National Gallery, to the Museum of Danish Resistance, to the tiny Happiness Museum with its focus on wellbeing and quality of life. Although it rains a lot and the winters are long, the Danes are deemed to be among the happiest nationalities in the world. We opted to visit the Danish Design Museum, housed in a former city-centre hospital with a stunning courtyard garden. With exhibitions on patterns, lamps and table setting through the ages and 19th- and 20th-century chairs, it is a great place to gain an understanding of the key principles of Danish design, which first came to international prominence in the mid 1950s and continues to flourish. Copenhagen takes its design seriously, and although you mightn't get beyond a glimpse through apartment windows to see how the residents live, you can wander through the numerous furniture design showrooms antique shops, clothing boutiques and art galleries at your leisure. If you have more time, there are lots of other museums, including the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, which would require a day trip from the city centre. And, as mentioned, the contemporary architecture in this city is so striking that Copenhagen is the Unesco-UIA World Capital of Architecture from 2023-2026. You'll see most of it as you wander by, but essential buildings to keep an eye out for include the Black Diamond Royal Library on the harbour, the nearby Blox Danish Architecture Centre, the Royal Danish Playhouse and of course the Opera House. Finally, if you're travelling in the summer months, pack your swimming gear and join locals in one of the seven swimming spots on the harbour. Proud of the cleanliness of the harbour water, taking a lunchtime dip is as popular as weekend trips to places such as Island Brygge. You can also rent boats ( ) to tour the harbour and canals in your own time afterwards.
Daily Mail
06-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Daily Mail
Queen Mary of Denmark shows off elegant summer style as she steps out for evening at the Royal Danish Academy of Music
Queen Mary of Denmark was the image of effortless elegance as she stepped out for an evening at the Royal Danish Academy of Music tonight. The wife of King Frederik X, 53, showed off her summer style in an all-white ensemble topped with a dusky pink blazer, perfect for the sun. She donned a sophisticated vest, cinched at the waist with a belt, and high waisted culottes for the outing. Adding a pop of colour with her accessories, the mother-of-four carried a pastel leather clutch and painted her nails a crimson red. Elsewhere, she added a fun flair with snake-print high heels. Mary wore her chestnut tresses in relaxed waves, opting for a glowy yet glam make-up look. The Academy, initially founded by composer Niels W Gade in 1867, is 'the eldest professional institution of musical education in Denmark and the largest with focus on classical music, with approximately 400 students'. Queen Mary is a 'Protector' of the institution. The Queen beamed and shook hands with attendees as she we was welcomed to the venue in Frederiksberg. It comes as earlier this week, Mary and Frederik beamed in the sun as they made the annual move into their summer residence at Fredensborg Castle. The couple, who usually stay in Amalienborg, Copenhagen, were all smiles as they took in the sunny weather and were welcomed by wellwishers as well as a brass ensemble. Frederik, 56, and his wife Mary were both delighted as they received a warm welcome to the palace's Chancellery House. The Queen was effortlessly elegant in navy trousers and a breezy blue button-down, teamed with a light white coat. She wore her hair down and opted for a smokey eye make-up look for the occasion. Elsewhere Frederik donned taupe chinos with a pastel blouse, topped with a checkered blazer. The couple appeared to bring their Border Collie, Coco, along, and looked to be in high spirits as they made their arrival. Mary held onto a bouquet of flowers as she and her husband both greeted members of the public, and enjoyed chatting. She donned a sophisticated vest, cinched at the waist with a belt, and high waisted culottes for the outing Taking to social media, the King and Queen wrote: 'When spring soon turns into summer, and the trees around Fredensborg Castle turn green again, the Royal Family will traditionally move their residence to the Chancellery House.' Fredensborg was built as a 'country seat' for Frederik IV and initially used in 1722, before being rebuilt and expanded. Now, it is often the setting for 'important events' for the family, such as weddings, anniversaries and birthdays. It's been an exciting few weeks for the Danish royals, who last month celebrated Princess Isabella's 18th birthday. The eldest daughter of Mary and Frederik enjoyed multiple events in honour of her celebrations, also posed for official photographs at Knight's Hall of Frederick VIII's Palace in Amalienborg. Isabella put on a dashing display in a vibrant orange ballgown, which was adorned with the Order of the Elephant and a miniature portrait of her father. The 18-year-old, who opted for a glowing makeup look, added a pair of turquoise and diamond earrings and a matching tiara. The caption read: '18 years ago today Her Royal Highness Princess Isabella was born.' 'The birthday itself is marked with the publication of the Princess's first official gala portraits. 'The princess is photographed in the Knight's Hall of Frederick VIII's Palace in Amalienborg, and on the portraits Her Royal Highness wears the Order of the Elephant with a star chest... and a miniature Order portrait of her father, His Majesty the King.' One day before Isabella's birthday, the Danish Royal Family shared a scrapbook of adorable intimate family pictures. To mark her milestone birthday, the proud parents posted an array of childhood snaps of Isabella and her family throughout various stages of her life. The royal family's Instagram caption read: 'Little glimpses from childhood to 18 years old. 'On the occasion of Her Royal Highness Princess Isabella's 18th birthday on Monday, Their Majesties the King and Queen share here a selection of memories.' These included an adorable snap of Queen Margrethe - who abdicated the Danish throne in January last year - holding her newborn granddaughter shortly after she was born. The former monarch was seen smiling as she looked down at Isabella while cradling her in her arms. Another sweet black and white image also showed a young Isabella smiling as she clutched onto her mother's back. A second endearing photograph showed older sister Isabella touching Mary's baby bump when she was pregnant with twins Josephine and Vincent in 2010. The couple also chose a picture of Isabella - who is called Bella for short in some of the scrapbook captions - and her late grandfather, Prince Henrik of Denmark, who passed away in 2018. The monochrome image showed the Princess wrapping her arms around Henrik, giving him a huge hug. The extensive post also included snaps of Isabella with her Australian Scottish grandparents on Mary's side. Mary's parents are Scottish, but they emigrated to Hobart, Tasmania, where she was born in 1972. Her mother, Henrietta Clark Donaldson, sadly passed in 1997 following complications from a heart surgery when Mary was just 25 years old. Her father, John Dalgleish Donaldson, remarried a British crime writer Susan Horwood, who writes under the name Susan Moody. Elsewhere, another picture showed a young Isabella swimming and spending quality time with her father, King Frederik. Other images showed Isabella from when was around five years old on family trips in Tisvilde, a seaside town in Denmark, and her feeding a horse - along with more recent snaps of her with the family border collie, Grace. Princess Isabella is expected to enjoy a private birthday celebration with family and loved ones to mark the occasion today. From this year onwards, Princess Isabella will also have her birthday added into the rotation of annual flag days, which are the official dates when the national flag is traditionally flown. In addition to celebrating at the lavish Royal Theatre's Old Stage in Copenhagen last Tuesday, Isabella also had an earlier party on April 11, which, according to Hello, cost a staggering £32,542.
