12-08-2025
Lélé Takes a Lush Approach to Caribbean and African Fare
Opening
Lately, chefs with Caribbean roots and prestige on their resumes are giving luster to Caribbean menus, often from a French and African viewpoint, in locations leafy with palm fronds. The executive chef here is Rúnar Pierre Heriveaux, who is from Haiti with French training and is known for his food at ÓX in Reykjavik, Iceland. He is now serving jerk oyster mushrooms, Hamachi with piri piri, monkfish on the bone with red curry, goat in a yellow curry, oxtails with coffee and barbecue seasonings and Caribbean rum cake. Tropical fruits and rum define many of the drinks. The 150-seat restaurant covers three floors draped in velvet and decorated with scenes that evoke the tropics.
237 Madison Avenue (38th Street), 212-999-6476,
With the terraced 16th-floor venue open since the spring, the Ink 48 Hotel is now ready to serve on its ground floor with the same chef, Samuel Drake-Jones, running the show. His street-level specialties include yeasted pasta with Sunburst tomatoes, seared steelhead with a tahini sauce, grilled cabbage with Indian spices and, for dessert, cross-channel choices of French chocolate mousse and Eton mess. The wood-accented room relies on warm tones and a swath of windows.
Ink 48 Hotel, 653 Eleventh Avenue (48th Street), 917-960-9961,
This new restaurant cafe and food market in the South Bronx is the work of the Oyate Group, a five-year-old local nonprofit with a mission to reduce poverty, with all profits going to the organization. The chef consultant, Travis Spear, has worked in cities across the United States, often in hotels; the chef is Juan Abad. Mr. Spear's approachable menu for the 50-seat dining room, with prices that are fairly moderate by today's standards (steak-frites topping it at $37, and a $19 shrimp cocktail), has touches of Mexico with ceviche, and avocado mousse alongside black bass. The cafe has salads and sandwiches, and the shop sells coffees, condiments and tinned fish. The restaurant will also provide training for local people hoping to find work in the hospitality sector.
141 Alexander Avenue (East 134th Street), Mott Haven, Bronx, 212-871-6155,
Add this option for classic Italian fare, square Sicilian pizzas and panini to the thickening brew of Penn District restaurants. It's adjacent to Friedman's Restaurant from the same owners: Alan Philips, Jonah Philips and Marom Unger. (Thursday)
132 West 31st Street, 212-971-9400.
This new gathering spot on the 9th floor of the Park South Hotel offers food like pizza and sliders, drinks both classic and inventive, and views both open air and weather protected.
Park South hotel, 127 East 25th Street, 212-204-5222,
Looking Ahead
Ice cream provides an easy antidote to bad news and other disappointments. Now there's a new documentary with 84 minutes of gelato, much longer than it takes to finish a double scoop. The bright film about the career of Sergio Dondoli, a gelato master in San Gimignano, a Tuscan town known for its medieval towers, offers insights into his often uncommon flavors like blackberry and lavender, and saffron with pine nuts, and includes accolades from some of Italy's gastronomic greats like the butcher, Dario Cecchini. The film, directed by Jay Arnold and distributed by Breaking Glass Pictures, won awards at the 2025 New York East Village Film Festival and the 2025 Red Movie Awards. Worldwide streaming starts Aug. 19.
Closed and Closing
The restaurant that began Felipe Donnelly and Tamy Rofe's businesses (including Colonia Verde, Comparti and Paloa) has closed. Its most recent location was the Freehand hotel in the Flatiron district. Mr. Donnelly, the managing partner, said that in the post-pandemic restaurant climate, they couldn't resolve financial issues.
Prospect Heights, Brooklyn, is shedding restaurants like maple leaves in autumn. The latest, this accommodating spot for eating in, taking out and shopping, most notably for sandwiches, has called it a day after 11 years. But it's not leaving a vacant storefront in its wake because come fall, Gertrude's nearby will move its sandwich shop, Gertie's, into the space.
602 Carlton Avenue (St. Marks Avenue), Prospect Heights, Brooklyn.
This bistro serving French, Italian and American food, will say adieu on Aug. 16 after five years. The announcement is on the website. The space is for sale.
38 Driggs Avenue (Sutton Street), Greenpoint, Brooklyn, 718-389-0632,
For more than 50 years, this reliable hangout for burgers and brunch, with omelets, main course salads and crepes on the menu, has been a West Village anchor. It will close on Sunday. The name derives from a location in London where there had been a pub called Enfanta de Castile with a name that got garbled and which was destroyed in World War II.
68 Greenwich Avenue (West 11th Street), 212-243-1401,
Follow New York Times Cooking on Instagram, Facebook, YouTube, TikTok and Pinterest. Get regular updates from New York Times Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice.
