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Remembering Lionel Terray
Remembering Lionel Terray

Yahoo

time6 hours ago

  • Yahoo

Remembering Lionel Terray

Today, July 25, would be the 104th birthday of Lionel Terray. The celebrated French alpinist climbed routes from the Alps to the Himalaya to the Andes, and also wrote one of the all-time great mountaineering books, Conquistadors of the Useless. Early years Lionel Terray was born on July 25, 1921. Growing up in Grenoble near the French Alps, Terray discovered mountaineering and skiing as a child. A conversation with his mother, who dismissed climbing as a stupid sport involving scaling rocks with your hands and feet, sparked his curiosity. By age 12, Terray was climbing peaks like the Aiguille du Belvedere and the Aiguille d'Argentiere with his cousin. By 13, the talented youngster was leading climbs. But Terray's love for the mountains caused problems; he got kicked out of one boarding school and ran away from another to pursue ski racing. With little family support, he got by on his own. Skiing was Terray's first love, and as a teen, he won prizes in competitions, which gave him some money. In 1941, during World War II, Terray joined Jeunesse et Montagne, a military program that kept him in the mountains. There, he met lifelong friends and climbing partners Gaston Rebuffat and Louis Lachenal. In 1942, Terray carried out the first ascent of the west side of Aiguille Purtscheller. He also climbed the difficult Col du Caiman. From 1943 to 1944, Terray served in a high-mountain military unit. In 1944, he joined the French resistance, using his mountain skills against the Nazis. Terray knocked off other notable first ascents, such as the east-northeast spur of the Pain de Sucre and the north face of Aiguille des Pelerins with Maurice Herzog in 1944. A rising star After the war, Terray became a mountaineering instructor and settled in Chamonix as a freelance guide. With Lachenal, he did some of the Alps' most difficult routes, including the Droites' north spur in only eight hours in 1946, the Walker Spur of the Grandes Jorasses in 1946, the northeast face of Piz Badile, and the north face of the Eiger in 1947 (the second-ever ascent). Terray's speed and skill earned him a reputation as a climbing prodigy. A rescue attempt on Mont Blanc In late December 1956, Lionel Terray took part in a rescue attempt on Mont Blanc's Grand Plateau. At about 4,000m, young climbers Jean Vincendon and Francois Henry were stranded after a failed attempt on the Gouter Route, a popular 1,800m climb to Mont Blanc's summit. On December 22, a blizzard caught Vincendon and Henry near the Vallot Hut at 4,362m. Freezing and frostbitten, they couldn't descend. Terray, now a Chamonix guide, defied the Compagnie des Guides' decision to postpone a rescue because of the extreme risks of strong winds and freezing temperatures. Terray's team battled brutal weather for two days but couldn't reach the climbers. A military helicopter, attempting a parallel rescue, crashed near the Vallot Hut, stranding its crew. Terray's group retreated, exhausted, as conditions worsened. French Army instructors finally reached Vincendon and Henry in early January, but found them near death from exposure and frostbite. Evacuation was impossible, and both climbers died. Terray's rescue effort led to his expulsion from the guides' organization, sparking controversy in Chamonix. Eiger rescue In the summer of 1957, Terray took part in a complicated rescue on the Eiger's North Face in the Swiss Alps. Two Italian climbers, Claudio Corti and Stefano Longhi, were stranded after an avalanche hit their team during an attempt on the notorious Nordwand. The route, known for its steep ice, rockfall, and brutal weather, had already killed their partners, and Corti was injured. Terray, then 35, joined a multinational rescue team at Kleine Scheidegg. The climbers were stuck near the Difficult Crack, at around 3,300m. Terray, with German climbers Wolfgang Stefan and Hans Ratay, ascended via ropes and pitons. They battled harsh winds and -20°C temperatures. After two days, they reached Corti, who was hypothermic but alive, clinging to a ledge. Longhi, lower down, was too weak to move. Terray secured Corti with ropes, and the team lowered him 600m to safety. Longhi, barely conscious, died during the descent when his rope jammed. The effort, involving 50 people, was one of mountaineering's greatest rescues. Other historic climbs Terray's ambition took him beyond the Alps. In 1950, he joined Maurice Herzog's expedition to 8,091m Annapurna I in the Himalaya, the first confirmed ascent of an 8,000m peak. Terray and Rebuffat's efforts, alongside one of the Sherpas, were crucial to helping the frostbitten Herzog and Lachenal descend safely. The climb brought global fame for the French team. In 1952, Terray and Guido Magnone made the first ascent of Cerro Fitz Roy in Patagonia. That year, Terray also climbed 6,369m Huantsan in Peru with Cees Egeler and Tom De Booy. In 1954, Terray summited 7,804m Chomo Lonzo with Jean Couzy, paving the way for their legendary 1955 first ascent of 8,485m Makalu. In 1962, Terray led the first ascent of 7,710m Jannu in Nepal, and in the summer of 1964, he led the first ascent of 3,731m Mount Huntington in Alaska. In Peru, Terray made first ascents of peaks like 6,108m Chacraraju, considered the hardest peak in the Andes at the time, along with 5,350m Willka Wiqi, 5,428m Soray, and 5,830m Tawllirahu. Conquistadors of the Useless In 1961, Terray published Les Conquerants de l'inutile (Conquistadors of the Useless), a memoir that blends vivid accounts of his climbs with reflections on the purpose of mountaineering. The title captures his view that climbing, though seen as pointless by some, was a noble pursuit. The book, translated into several languages, remains a classic. A tragic end On September 19, 1965, Terray and his friend Marc Martinetti died in a climbing accident in the Vercors massif near Grenoble. Terray was just 44. The pair was descending the Gerbier, a limestone cliff in the Vercors range, after completing a route. They were roped together when their rope -- likely weakened or damaged -- snapped. They fell more than 200m to the base of the cliff. Both climbers died on impact. Chamonix mourned deeply, and his funeral drew figures like Herzog, Rebuffat, and Leo LeBon. "He was to many a great and dear friend, and all those who paid him tribute before he was laid to rest in the Chamonix Cemetery, among them hardened mountain climbers, wept like small children. To the French climbing world, especially the younger generation, his absence represents an irreplaceable loss, as he was the hero of their dreams, and could hold an audience breathless as no one ever has been able to," Lebon wrote in the American Alpine Journal. Terray's legacy lives on through his climbs, rescues, and writings. His son, Nicolas, is a mountain guide. Known for his red beanie and sunglasses, Terray appeared in films like Etoile du Midi, La Grande Descente, and Stars Above Mont Blanc. You can watch Etoile du Midi below, with the option of automatic subtitles: Solve the daily Crossword

France withdraws from its last military bases in Senegal
France withdraws from its last military bases in Senegal

Al Jazeera

time17-07-2025

  • Politics
  • Al Jazeera

France withdraws from its last military bases in Senegal

France withdraws from its last military bases in Senegal NewsFeed France has handed over its two remaining military bases in Senegal, ending its 65-year presence in the African country. A departure ceremony was held in Dakar for the final contingent of around 350 French soldiers. Video Duration 01 minutes 33 seconds 01:33 Video Duration 02 minutes 03 seconds 02:03 Video Duration 00 minutes 34 seconds 00:34 Video Duration 02 minutes 45 seconds 02:45 Video Duration 02 minutes 49 seconds 02:49 Video Duration 01 minutes 03 seconds 01:03 Video Duration 01 minutes 10 seconds 01:10

France hands over last military bases in Senegal
France hands over last military bases in Senegal

Al Arabiya

time17-07-2025

  • Politics
  • Al Arabiya

France hands over last military bases in Senegal

France handed back its last two military bases in Senegal on Thursday, leaving the French army with no permanent camps in west and central Africa. Senegal's former colonial ruler returned Camp Geille, its largest base in the west African country, and its airfield at Dakar airport, in a ceremony attended by top French and Senegalese officials. Around 350 French soldiers, primarily tasked with conducting joint operations with the Senegalese army, are now leaving, marking the end of a three-month departure process that began in March. After storming to victory in 2024 elections promising radical change, Senegalese President Bassirou Diomaye Faye demanded France withdraw troops from the country by 2025. Unlike the leaders of other former French colonies such as junta-run Burkina Faso, Mali and Niger, Faye has insisted that Senegal will continue working with Paris.

French army to leave Senegal amid Africa downsizing
French army to leave Senegal amid Africa downsizing

France 24

time17-07-2025

  • Politics
  • France 24

French army to leave Senegal amid Africa downsizing

Ending the French army's 65 years in Senegal, the pull-out comes after similar withdrawals across the continent, with former colonies increasingly turning their backs on their former ruler. Around 350 French soldiers, primarily tasked with conducting joint operations with the Senegalese army, will leave the west African nation after a three-month departure process. France started ceding its bases to Senegal in March. After storming to victory in 2024 elections promising radical change, Senegal's President Bassirou Diomaye Faye demanded France withdraw troops from the country by 2025. Unlike the leaders of other former colonies such as junta-run Burkina Faso, Mali and Niger, however, Faye has insisted that Senegal will keep working with Paris. In a ceremony in Dakar, France will return Camp Geille, its largest base in the country, and its airfield at Dakar airport. Senegal's Chief of General Staff, General Mbaye Cisse, and General Pascal Ianni, who commands France's troops in Africa, will attend. 'Sovereignty' After gaining independence in 1960, Senegal became one of France's staunchest African allies, playing host to French troops throughout its history. Faye's predecessor, Macky Sall, continued that tradition. Faye, who ran on a ticket promising a clean break with the Sall era, has said that Senegal would treat France like any other foreign partner. Pledging to make his country more self-sufficient, the president gave a deadline of the end of 2025 for all foreign armies to withdraw. "Senegal is an independent country, it is a sovereign country and sovereignty does not accept the presence of military bases in a sovereign country," Faye said at the end of 2024, while maintaining that "France remains an important partner for Senegal". Faye has also urged Paris to apologise for colonial atrocities, including the massacre on December 1, 1944 of dozens of African troops who had fought for France in World War II. Continent-wide pull-out With governments across Africa increasingly questioning France's military presence, Paris has closed or reduced numbers at bases across its former empire. In February France handed back its sole remaining base in Ivory Coast, ending decades of French presence at the site. The month before, France turned over the Kossei base in Chad, its last military foothold in the unrest-hit Sahel region. Coups in Burkina Faso, Niger and Mali between 2020 and 2023 have swept military strongmen to power. All have cut ties with France and turned to Russia instead for help in fighting the Sahel's decade-long jihadist insurgency. The Central African Republic, also a former French colony to which the Kremlin has sent mercenaries, has likewise demanded a French pull-out. Meanwhile the army has turned its base in Gabon into a camp shared with the central African nation. Only the tiny Horn of Africa nation of Djibouti will be home to a permanent French army base following Thursday's withdrawal.

French army to leave Senegal amid Africa downsizing
French army to leave Senegal amid Africa downsizing

News.com.au

time17-07-2025

  • Politics
  • News.com.au

French army to leave Senegal amid Africa downsizing

France will on Thursday formally hand back its last military bases in Senegal, leaving the French army with no permanent camps in west and central Africa. Ending the French army's 65 years in Senegal, the pull-out comes after similar withdrawals across the continent, with former colonies increasingly turning their backs on their former ruler. Around 350 French soldiers, primarily tasked with conducting joint operations with the Senegalese army, will leave the west African nation after a three-month departure process. France started ceding its bases to Senegal in March. After storming to victory in 2024 elections promising radical change, Senegal's President Bassirou Diomaye Faye demanded France withdraw troops from the country by 2025. Unlike the leaders of other former colonies such as junta-run Burkina Faso, Mali and Niger, however, Faye has insisted that Senegal will keep working with Paris. In a ceremony in Dakar, France will return Camp Geille, its largest base in the country, and its airfield at Dakar airport. Senegal's Chief of General Staff, General Mbaye Cisse, and General Pascal Ianni, who commands France's troops in Africa, will attend. - 'Sovereignty' - After gaining independence in 1960, Senegal became one of France's staunchest African allies, playing host to French troops throughout its history. Faye's predecessor, Macky Sall, continued that tradition. Faye, who ran on a ticket promising a clean break with the Sall era, has said that Senegal would treat France like any other foreign partner. Pledging to make his country more self-sufficient, the president gave a deadline of the end of 2025 for all foreign armies to withdraw. "Senegal is an independent country, it is a sovereign country and sovereignty does not accept the presence of military bases in a sovereign country," Faye said at the end of 2024, while maintaining that "France remains an important partner for Senegal". Faye has also urged Paris to apologise for colonial atrocities, including the massacre on December 1, 1944 of dozens of African troops who had fought for France in World War II. - Continent-wide pull-out - With governments across Africa increasingly questioning France's military presence, Paris has closed or reduced numbers at bases across its former empire. In February France handed back its sole remaining base in Ivory Coast, ending decades of French presence at the site. The month before, France turned over the Kossei base in Chad, its last military foothold in the unrest-hit Sahel region. Coups in Burkina Faso, Niger and Mali between 2020 and 2023 have swept military strongmen to power. All have cut ties with France and turned to Russia instead for help in fighting the Sahel's decade-long jihadist insurgency. The Central African Republic, also a former French colony to which the Kremlin has sent mercenaries, has likewise demanded a French pull-out. Meanwhile the army has turned its base in Gabon into a camp shared with the central African nation. Only the tiny Horn of Africa nation of Djibouti will be home to a permanent French army base following Thursday's withdrawal.

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