Latest news with #FurtenbachAdventures
Yomiuri Shimbun
4 days ago
- Yomiuri Shimbun
Britons Become 1st to Scale Mt. Everest with Help of Xenon Gas, Organizer Says
KATHMANDU (Reuters) — Four British climbers became the first to scale Mt. Everest on May 21 using xenon gas, which helped them save several weeks that mountaineers need to get used to high altitudes, an official of their expedition organizing company said. Normally climbers spend several weeks or even months on the mountain to allow their bodies to adjust to higher altitudes before trying to reach the summit of the world's highest mountain. It is extremely dangerous to go up if the climber is not properly acclimatized. The British climbers, who had inhaled xenon gas in Germany before embarking on the expedition, climbed the 8,848 meter peak in less than five days after departing London, said Lukas Furtenbach of the Austria-based Furtenbach Adventures that organized the expedition. They slept in special tents that simulate high-altitude conditions at home before heading to the mountain and used supplemental oxygen like other climbers during their ascent. Xenon is a colorless and odorless gas found in very small amounts in the earth's atmosphere and is known to have some anesthetic properties and medical uses. 'Xenon improves the acclimatization and protects the body from altitude sickness and the effects from the hypoxic environment,' Furtenbach told Reuters in a text message from the base camp, referring to the low oxygen environment in the mountains. Furtenbach, who has logged four Everest ascents, said xenon gas was used by guides before, but 'it is the first time for clients,' or ordinary climbers. Xenon made the climb safer and shorter as it kept the climbers properly acclimatized, he said. 'Shorter expedition also means less garbage, less resources, less human waste in this sensitive environment,' Furtenbach said. Piles of garbage dumped by climbers have been an issue on Everest in recent years. American climber and guide Adrian Ballinger of the Alpenglow Expeditions company called the use of xenon a 'stunt … it's never seemed like the type of experience we want to provide.' 'Everyone should climb the mountain in a form they are proud of. If these climbers are proud of this style, then that's their choice,' Ballinger said. Nepal has issued permits to 468 people to Everest during the current March-May climbing season, and more than 200 have already topped the summit so far.
Yahoo
4 days ago
- Health
- Yahoo
Inexperienced climbers could be banned from scaling Mount Everest in move to reduce deaths and overcrowding
When you buy through links on our articles, Future and its syndication partners may earn a commission. Climbing the world's tallest mountain could soon become even harder as officials have announced a major rule change to curb unnecessary deaths and overcrowding. Under new legislation currently making its way through Nepal's parliament, the Himalayan nation would only grant Everest permits to climbers who have already scaled at least one of its 7,000m (22,965ft) peaks. Medical check-ups from a government-approved hospital or medical facility would also be mandatory. The proposed law is the latest in a series of rules introduced to restrict the number of inexperienced climbers attempting to summit the 29,035ft (8,849m) mountain. The move comes on the heels of several other policy changes for Everest hopefuls. In January, Nepal announced a 36% increase in climbing fees for foreign climbers on the mountain. Overseas climbers hoping to scale the popular South Col route during the peak spring season now have to pay a $15,000 (£11,204) royalty fee, rather than the previous total of $11,000 (£8,217). Daredevil solo climbers have also been restricted. As of September, everyone on the mountain must be accompanied by an expert guide, although it's currently unclear whether overseas guides qualify. Overcrowding has become a major issue on Everest, as most climbs are attempted from March to May. Queues to the summit, abundant litter, and abandoned human excrement have all mired the Himalayan peak in recent years. One sherpa told the BBC: "Our mountains have begun to stink. We are getting complaints that human stools are visible on rocks and some climbers are falling sick." The proposed law's announcement has been met with criticism by travel companies, who say it could harm business on the mountain. Lukas Furtenbach leads Everest expeditions for the Austria-based company, Furtenbach Adventures. He's urging Nepali lawmakers to allow permits for climbers who've scaled any 7,000m+ peak, not just those in Nepal. He told Reuters: "That wouldn't make any sense. And I would also add mountains that are close to 7,000 metres to that list and that are widely used as preparation, like Ama Dablam, Aconcagua, Denali and others." Although the incoming law is still in its draft stage, Nepal's ruling alliance holds the required majority to pass it and is expected to do so without significant changes. The best crampons: tested for sure-footed traction on frozen terrain The best ice axes: for tackling frozen terrain
Yahoo
6 days ago
- Climate
- Yahoo
Tyler Andrews to Take One Last Shot at Everest Speed Record
Tyler Andrews is not ready to accept defeat on Everest. Hours after admitting that "the mountain said no" over the weekend, he has just announced he is leaving again tonight at 9 pm Nepal time. That's about two hours from now. The weather looks great tomorrow. The bad news is, the Khumbu Icefall does not. Tyler Andrews tried to bag the fastest ever Everest ascent last Friday. Contrary to his original plans, he opted to use supplementary oxygen because of high winds on the upper sections of the mountain. However, expedition leader Dawa Steven Sherpa decided to turn Andrews around on Saturday morning at around 8,000m, and move both Andrews and his support team (distributed at several points along the mountain) down for safety reasons. The wind was just too strong. Yesterday, Andrews posted a video of his highest point, showing strong winds above the South Col. "For the second time in two weeks, I was under world record pace and within just a couple of hours of the summit, but Apu ["Lord"] Everest did not want to grant us safe passage," Andrews wrote. Andrews was devastated to have come so close. He had been focused on his Everest Fastest Known Time (FKT) project for years, and needed some time to consider his next move. Less than 24 hours later, he has decided to try again. Andrews had shared no details, but in a text to ExplorersWeb, he said he will go with regular climbing partner Chris Fisher at least part of the way. He also confirmed to ExplorersWeb that he has reverted to his original plan of climbing without supplementary oxygen. There is a good reason for this last-minute attempt. After a crazy month of uncertain weather because of the jet-stream winds, forecasts agree that tomorrow will be an excellent summit day. "May 27 looks like the best day for Everest, with good, weak winds and pretty clear skies above 7,500m," Marc de Keyser, a meteorologist with Weather4Expeditions, told ExplorersWeb. He noted that May 28 could also be a good summit day, although the weather will deteriorate from that point on. Multimodel forecasts show the same pattern: Unfortunately, better weather means worse conditions on the Khumbu Icefall. It has been deteriorating over the last few days, to the point that it could close soon. Suman Gurung, one of the guides working for Furtenbach Adventures, had to fix a ladder-assisted passage over a crevasse as he went down on Sunday. "A section of the icefall was just was an icy graveyard of ropes and rogue ladders hanging in space," Gurung posted on Instagram. "The route is officially open until May 29, but it is already very dangerous," Lukas Furtenbach told us. Andrews was not the only runner hoping for a speed record on Everest. Karl Egloff of Ecuador left Base Camp with the same plan two hours before Andrews' previous attempt. Egloff stuck to his original plan of going without oxygen and aiming for an FKT for the round trip rather than Tyler Andrews' plan of timing himself just to the summit. Egloff aborted soon after Camp 3. "As I climbed alone all night to Camp 3, I decided to go down, I had a feeling that the mountain would not receive us, a bad feeling," Egloff explained. Egloff flew to Kathmandu yesterday. Asked by ExplorersWeb, he said it was a surprise to learn about Andrews' last-minute change of plans and confirmed he is not trying again this season. All the big teams are already off the mountain, and crowding will not be a problem for Andrews. However, he and Fisher will not be completely alone on the mountain. Dan Mazur of the U.S., leader of the SummitClimb expedition, said earlier today on Facebook that around 50 climbers will try to reach the South Col tonight and go for the summit on May 27 or 28.
News18
23-05-2025
- Health
- News18
Xenon Helps Four British Men Scale Mount Everest. Why Has It Caused Controversy?
Last Updated: The group, all former British special forces members, became the first climbers to use xenon gas to scale the world's highest mountain. Climbing Mount Everest has always been seen as a test of endurance, patience and physical strength. But four British climbers recently made headlines for achieving the feat in just a few days using a gas that is not commonly associated with mountaineering. The group, all former British special forces members, became the first climbers to use xenon gas to scale the world's highest mountain. The climbers included Alastair Carns, a parliament member and minister for veterans at the Defense Ministry along with Garth Miller, Anthony Stazicker and Kev Godlington. Their expedition, organised by Austria-based Furtenbach Adventures, reached the 8,848-metre summit in less than five days after leaving London. While their achievement is notable, their use of xenon gas has stirred debate in the mountaineering community and triggered an official investigation in Nepal. What Is Xenon Gas? Xenon is a colourless and odourless gas that is over four and a half times heavier than air. It is found in tiny amounts in the Earth's atmosphere and is known for its use in medicine, especially as an anaesthetic. The gas is also used in many other areas. According to CK Supply, it's found in projector and cinema lamps, camera flashes, car headlights, CT scans, satellites, deep space missions, nuclear energy and metallurgy. Lukas Furtenbach, head of Furtenbach Adventures, told Reuters, 'Xenon improves acclimatisation and protects the body from altitude sickness and the effects from the hypoxic environment." How Did The Climbers Use It? The four British climbers inhaled xenon gas in Germany before beginning their expedition. They also trained at home using special tents that mimic high-altitude conditions. This pre-acclimatisation helped them avoid spending weeks on Everest adjusting to the low oxygen levels which is typically required. During their actual climb, they still used supplemental oxygen like most mountaineers. Furtenbach said the shorter expedition also helped reduce waste on the mountain. 'Less garbage, less resources, less human waste in this sensitive environment," he told Reuters. Why Is The Use of Xenon Drawing Attention? Nepal has started an investigation into the use of xenon gas by four British army veterans who recently climbed Mount Everest, according to The Kathmandu Post. In a statement, Nepal's Department of Tourism said it had taken note of the media reports about the climbers' achievement. 'We are currently engaging with the expedition team leaders, members, and the associated agencies to gather detailed information and conduct a thorough study and analysis of this matter," it said. What Are Experts Saying? Peter Hackett, a mountaineering physician, told The Washington Post that xenon can temporarily increase erythropoietin (EPO), a hormone that stimulates red blood cell production. 'It did not increase red blood cells and it did not increase their exercise performance" in a study conducted on athletes, he said. Dr Andrew Peacock, an altitude medicine expert at the University of Glasgow, also shared a similar view with BBC, saying, 'Increase in erythropoietin does nothing on its own. The question in this case is, does it really stimulate production of red blood cells in such a short period?" The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) also weighed in. 'According to current literature, there is no evidence that breathing in xenon improves performance in the mountains, and inappropriate use can be dangerous. Although a single inhalation of xenon can measurably increase the release of erythropoietin, this increase is not sustained over four weeks' use, nor is it associated with any changes in red blood cells. According to the literature, the effects on performance are unclear and probably non-existent," it said as quoted by BBC. Ethical Concerns The use of xenon isn't only raising health concerns, it has also started a debate about ethics and fairness in mountaineering. According to Reuters, American climber Adrian Ballinger called the method a 'stunt" and said, 'It's never seemed like the type of experience we want to provide." He added that using xenon makes the climb feel more like 'mountain tourism" than real mountaineering. Ballinger also told the Washington Post, 'It is a banned substance by all professional sporting organisations, and even though [mountain climbing] is not managed by a sporting organisation, it's always been a goal of climbers to follow best practices of not doping. All that combined makes it feel, I guess, pretty icky. People should be able to climb how they want to, but it isn't mountain climbing; it's mountain tourism." Damber Parajuli, president of the Expedition Operators Association of Nepal, told the BBC that shortcuts like this could damage the credibility of summit certificates and hurt the trekking industry. First Published:
Straits Times
23-05-2025
- Straits Times
Everest in five days: British team's speed climb triggers probe by Nepali authorities
The team's rapid ascent has drawn sharp scrutiny from Nepali authorities for the controversial use of xenon gas prior to their arrival. PHOTO: AFP KATHMANDU - Four former British special forces soldiers have set a startling new precedent on Mount Everest, reaching the summit in under five days without the traditional acclimatisation process. Their rapid ascent of the planet's tallest peak has drawn sharp scrutiny from Nepali authorities, not for the climb itself, but for the controversial use of xenon gas prior to their arrival in Nepal. The team, comprising Major Garth Miller, Colonel Alistair Scott Carns, Mr Anthony James Stazicker, and Mr Kevin Francis Godlington, summited the world's highest peak at approximately 7.15am (9.30am Singapore time) on May 21. Their journey began in London on the afternoon of May 16, with the climbers arriving at Everest Base Camp the following day. By 10.30pm on May 20, they had begun their final summit push. Back home, the team had trained in hypoxic tents and followed a rigorous high-altitude conditioning regime. But what has provoked the current controversy is their reported inhalation of xenon gas, administered two weeks before departure in Europe, intended to reduce the risk of altitude sickness. Mr Himal Gautam, director of the Department of Tourism, who oversees mountaineering expeditions, said the department was not informed of the gas use. 'We have launched an investigation into the matter,' he said, noting that all climbers and operators must declare the equipment, medications, and substances used during expeditions. Traditionally, climbers take more than a month to summit Everest. They begin their trek in early April and complete multiple rotations between Everest Base Camp and higher camps to acclimatise. These rotations are vital for adapting to the thinning air at high altitudes, and skipping them is considered risky. By contrast, the British team completed the entire climb in just five days - a feat that would have been unimaginable in previous decades. While their speed has captivated parts of the global mountaineering community, it has triggered a heated debate in Nepal about safety, ethics, and the future of high-altitude climbing. The expedition was organised by the Austria-based Furtenbach Adventures, whose founder, Mr Lukas Furtenbach, insists the team followed all rules. He confirmed that the xenon treatment was administered in Germany and emphasised that only standard supplemental oxygen was used on the mountain. 'What happens outside Nepal should not be under the purview of the Nepal government,' he said. He defended xenon's use as a modern, medically supervised intervention to prevent altitude sickness and suggested it could make Himalayan expeditions safer. 'Our company has a long-standing reputation for safety,' Mr Furtenbach said, expressing confidence that the investigation would find no wrongdoing. He also pointed to potential environmental benefits. 'Shorter expeditions mean less garbage, lower carbon emissions, and reduced human waste in the fragile alpine ecosystem,' he argued. Despite the abbreviated climb, Mr Furtenbach claimed his team employed about 120 local workers and paid them competitively, demonstrating, in his view, that sustainability and economic benefit could go hand in hand. Yet not all stakeholders are convinced. Mr Dambar Parajuli, president of the Expedition Operators Association of Nepal, warned that widespread adoption of such short-duration climbs could upend the economic model on which the Everest industry depends. 'Traditional expeditions employ sherpas, porters, guides, and kitchen staff for weeks, sometimes months,' he said. 'If climbers finish their journey in days, the ripple effect on local employment will be devastating.' He urged the government to consider the broader implications of this shift and to ensure that new policies uphold the livelihoods of communities that depend on the Everest economy. Xenon's use further complicates matters. In 2014, the World Anti-Doping Agency (Wada) banned the gas for athletes, citing its potential to enhance performance by stimulating the production of erythropoietin (Epo). This hormone boosts red blood cell production. However, mountaineering does not fall under Wada's purview, and there is no ban on its use for non-competitive climbers. In January, the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) released a statement on xenon, concluding that it offers no proven performance benefit for altitude climbing. 'Although a single dose may cause a short-term spike in Epo levels, there is no evidence that this translates into increased red blood cell count or improved performance,' the UIAA said. It emphasised that acclimatisation is a complex physiological process that a single intervention cannot hack. Moreover, the UIAA warned that xenon is a potent anaesthetic, not widely approved for medical use, and carries health risks. 'In an unmonitored environment like Everest, side effects such as impaired brain function or respiratory distress could be fatal,' the statement said. One study cited by the UIAA reported significant sedation even at doses recommended for mountaineering, posing a potentially serious risk in high-altitude zones where alertness can mean the difference between life and death. Still, Mr Furtenbach dismissed these concerns. He said his company followed ethical and medical guidelines and remained open to cooperation with Nepali authorities. 'We are transparent and willing to share our expertise with the government. But there needs to be a better understanding of modern medical science,' he said. The Everest 'death zone,' above 8,000m, is one of the most hostile environments on Earth. Oxygen is scarce; even seasoned climbers risk pulmonary or cerebral oedema, frostbite, and exhaustion. That such terrain could be tackled in mere days through science and training challenges deeply held beliefs about human endurance and the ethics of high-altitude mountaineering. As Nepal's investigation proceeds, officials face a new dilemma: how to regulate innovation without sacrificing safety, fairness, or the economic sustainability of Everest expeditions. KATHMANDU POST/ ASIA NEWS NETWORK Join ST's Telegram channel and get the latest breaking news delivered to you.
