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Time of India
25-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Time of India
Gara Met Gala: How a Parsi heirloom went from auntywear to blue carpet
Once tucked away in family trunks, the intricately embroidered sari is finding a second life on global red carpets, courtesy a new generation of revivalists We're all a bit nostalgic these days. The young romanticising eras they never lived through. The old convinced things were better back then. No surprise then that throwbacks and heirlooms are having their moment. None more so than the Parsi Gara sari after fashionista Natasha Poonawalla sashayed down the Met Gala carpet in a dramatic fishtail made by Manish Malhotra from two vintage Garas and Nita Ambani wrapped herself in its fine threadwork at Harvard India Conference. And just like that, this slumbering textile legacy stirred back into the spotlight. 'When Natasha wore Gara at the Met, of course, we were upset it wasn't one of our pieces,' laughs textile designer Ashdeen Lilaowala, 'but the craft got an international platform. What matters more is that people are talking about it.'The revival of the Parsi Gara isn't just about celebrity cameos but about people like Lilaowalla who are keeping the art of this ancient embroidery alive. And not just among Parsis. 'Eighty percent of our clientele is non-Parsi,' he says. Long before its red-carpet outings, the Parsi Gara had already racked up mileage. As trade grew between Canton and Bombay in the 18th and 19th centuries, Parsi merchants brought back embroidered silks from China. One story goes that a trader asked a Chinese artisan to embroider six yards of silk as a sari for his wife back home. Those early Garas weren't saris in the typical sense. Just rectangular panels without pallus or borders. It was Parsi women who transformed them and draped them with pleats to the right, pallu trailing low, and a peek of white lace. The enclosed field or 'gala' in Gujarati gave the Gara its name. by Taboola by Taboola Sponsored Links Sponsored Links Promoted Links Promoted Links You May Like 2025 Top Trending local enterprise accounting software [Click Here] Esseps Learn More Undo In Bharuch, elderly Parsis still recall the Chinese traders who cycled in with bundles of Garas sold by the kilo and taught embroidery techniques to Parsi women in exchange for chai. Designer Zenobia Davar adds a colourful footnote: 'It's said, wealthy Parsis would often gift them to their wives and mistresses,' she says. 'Sometimes, the mistresses received more lavish pieces than the wives leading to a fierce competition over who had the finest Gara!' The stories stitched into Parsi Garas also carried their own whimsy. A spinning motif was called karolia (spider), clustered dots were 'kanda-papeta' (onion-potato), a rooster-hen pattern became 'marga-margi' and 'China-Chini,' a Chinese man and woman. Some even had pagodas, bridges, steam engines and boats. Nature motifs were common as Zoroastrianism is a nature-revering religion, says Shernaz Cama , founder of the Unesco-backed Parzor Crafts in Delhi which has worked for decades to document and revive Parsi embroidery. 'Birds, flowers, gardens weren't just motifs. Every cluster of peonies or birds of paradise was a prayer disguised as pattern.' But as fashion changed, so did the Gara's fate. 'With tastes shifting to figure-hugging chiffons on one side and the khadi movement on the other, the silk Gara went out of fashion.' It wasn't just trends, says Cama. 'Women skilled in embroidery moved into office jobs.' Lilaowala traces its decline to 'geopolitical reasons'. The Communist movement in China disrupted supply chains and as India leaned into the swadeshi movement, elaborate saris felt out of place. Davar calls the 1970s the tipping point. 'With industrialisation, powerlooms replaced handlooms and we lost not just fabrics, but also lost weavers. Some even traded authentic Garas for aluminium vessels.' And so, the Gara retreated into family trunks and was worn mostly on Navroz, in agyaris (fire temples) and studio portraits. Until revival began almost instinctively. For Davar, the moment came when she received two authentic Garas at her wedding. 'It changed me. I felt a deep responsibility to honour and protect this heritage.' Nearly 25 years on, her studio specialises in handcrafted Gara spanning saris, bridalwear, children's clothes, accessories, and home decor. 'We created art that could live closer to people — frames for homes, coin purses, spectacle cases, and cushion covers.' In 2014, UK's Cherie Blair took home one of Davar's embroidered frames to hang in her London office. But Davar's 'proudest moment' she says is crafting 'The Forbidden Stitch' for Nita Ambani — a technique once reserved for Chinese nobility. 'It was so minute and painstaking that artisans would often develop cataracts. Today, we've revived it. Our artisans work under optimal lighting, take breaks and never stitch more than two hours a day, preserving both their eyesight and sanctity of the work.' Lilaowala's journey began with research. 'After graduating, I travelled to China, India and Iran to trace motifs,' he says. In family collections across regions, he began spotting familiar patterns. 'That helped build a repertoire of what Parsi Gara is.' When he launched his label in 2012, it wasn't just to recreate heirlooms. 'I wanted to make something a young woman could appreciate and wear today without needing to know its history first.' But sustaining a slow craft in a fast world isn't easy. 'Each motif takes years of training to perfect,' says Davar. 'A single embroidered sari takes anywhere from three to 18 months.' But time isn't the only cost. 'The biggest roadblock is the price of an authentic Gara,' says Cama. 'Which is why we've tried to tailor the work to fit the purse. The other challenge is that the Parsi women who carry memory no longer want to pursue it professionally. How do we remember the stories and symbols, then?' Davar points to another threat. 'Machine-made pieces that mimic the surface look of a Gara but lack the soul of hand craftsmanship.' Still, there's hope. Parzor, for instance, has trained a cohort ranging from SEWA-trained women in Ahmedabad to Parsi families in Navsari and master craftsmen in Delhi to keep what they call 'a unique multicultural tradition' alive. Lilaowala is determined to change the perception that Garas are 'something aunties wear'. He embroiders Gara onto Kanjivarams, Bandhanis, men's waistcoats and even creates handpainted prints. Not everyone approves. 'After I wove a Gara into a Benarasi, a textile historian told me, 'You've killed the craft! Now it'll be copied in China',' he laughs. 'But you have to see Gara with fresh eyes.'


News18
11-05-2025
- Entertainment
- News18
Manish Malhotra At The Met Gala 2025: An Ode To Indian Craftsmanship With Four Looks
Last Updated: While Manish Malhotra turned heads with his Met Gala 2025 debut, he also got everyone talking with how Coco Jones, Rihanna, and Natasha Poonawalla wore his creations. In a historic and head-turning debut, Manish Malhotra took centre stage at the 2025 Met Gala. The ace designer redefined the global fashion narrative with unapologetic glamour and Indian craftsmanship. He also became the first Indian designer to showcase not one but four dazzling ensembles at fashion's most prestigious event. From regal couture rooted in heritage to celebrity moments dripping in pearls and rubies, his presence marked a cultural crescendo that was both overdue and unforgettable. Let's take a look at the four Manish Malhotra looks that became the focal point at the 2025 Met Gala. Manish Malhotra Ditching convention, Manish Malhotra owned the blue carpet at the Met Gala as he stepped into the spotlight in a sherwani cape. The cape was sculptural, sculpted, and subversive. With his take on Inverness Dandy meeting Indian couture, the look was all about hand embroidery, glass beadwork, and a commanding silhouette. He accessorised his look with a cluster of brooches from his High Jewellery line. Each piece shone like a punctuation mark at the neckline, worn with conviction and continuity. He complemented these exquisite heirlooms with collar pins and cufflinks. With jewels like rubies, diamonds, and South Sea pearls, Manish left a mark on the blue carpet. Coco Jones Grammy-winning singer, songwriter, and actress Coco Jones chose a Manish Malhotra ensemble for her Met Gala debut. Inspired by the rebellious spirit of the 1930s zoot suit, her ensemble featured a tailored satin blouse, pearl-encrusted trousers, and a sweeping cape that was hand-embroidered over six months. Crafted from laser-cut organza and heirloom French lace, the cape shimmered with over 2,00,000 Swarovski crystals and pearls. She completed her look with a crown jewel necklace from the designer's jewellery line. The statement piece came with a striking 20.05 carat Tanzanite centrepiece, surrounded by a harmonious composition of over 47.3 carats of Tanzanites and over 47.6 carats of diamonds. Natasha Poonawalla View this post on Instagram A post shared by MANISH MALHOTRA (@manishmalhotraworld) Natasha made a commanding statement at the Met Gala 2025 in custom Manish Malhotra couture. She interpreted Black Dandyism in her way and reframed it through the language of Indian couture as she honoured her Parsi ancestry. She opted for a sculpted fishtail skirt that was made from two vintage Gara saris. She paired it with a corset-cummerbund and a vintage French lace bralette. Draped above it all: a sharply tailored black Gara jacket with bold shoulders, lined in imperial purple. She added drama by adding a sculptural lace cravat by Atelier Biser to her look. Rihanna rihanna at the met gala 2025 — val (@RihannasData) May 6, 2025 top videos View all Rihanna opted for a custom Marc Jacobs ensemble for the Met Gala 2025. Her look featured a corseted bodice that she had paired with a cropped tuxedo jacket. She added a dramatic flair to her look by adding a deconstructed blazer that was reimagined into a floor-length skirt, with sleeves knotted elegantly at the back. The sleeves of the blazer featured exquisite ruby buttons that were designed by Manish Malhotra. The singer completed her look with a floppy hat, a polka dot tie, and archival jewels. Watch CNN-News18 here. The News18 Lifestyle section brings you the latest on health, fashion, travel, food, and culture — with wellness tips, celebrity style, travel inspiration, and recipes. Also Download the News18 App to stay updated! tags : fashion lifestyle Manish Malhotra Met gala Location : Delhi, India, India First Published: May 11, 2025, 13:57 IST News lifestyle Manish Malhotra At The Met Gala 2025: An Ode To Indian Craftsmanship With Four Looks


Indian Express
08-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Indian Express
Natasha Poonawalla takes Parsi heritage to Met Gala 2025 with traditional Gara outfit
At this year's Met Gala, themed 'Superfine: Tailoring Black Style', Pune's Natasha Poonawalla didn't just serve fashion, but heritage. Draped in a custom Manish Malhotra ensemble adorned with authentic Parsi Gara embroidery, she brought a piece of her community's cultural legacy to one of the most prestigious fashion stages in the world, the Met Gala in Manhattan. The look was styled by Anaita Shroff Adajania, also a Parsi, making the moment even more rooted in identity and intention. 'It was spectacular,' said Ashdeen Lilaowala, one of India's most respected Gara designers. 'She took Parsi embroidery to the Met. That's huge. It's always great to see a craft we hold so dear represented on an international platform,' said the textile designer. Gara embroidery isn't just beautiful, it's steeped in history. The art form originated when Parsi traders began interacting with Chinese artisans, eventually adapting the delicate embroidery into what became known as Gara. It was often used in saris worn during weddings and ceremonies, filled with motifs of birds, flowers, and natural elements that reflect the Parsi reverence for nature. 'When Parsis were thriving in trade and settling in Bombay, Gara became part of their identity,' Lilaowala explained. 'It wasn't cheap or mass-produced. It was precious, ceremonial,' he said. Also read | Kiara Advani to Shah Rukh Khan: 7 Indian celebrities to attend the Met Gala this year, here's what we know about their look In Pune, the Parsi community has had a huge influence and has long held its traditions close. Many families still treasure their heirloom Gara saris, wearing them on auspicious occasions. 'We may not talk about it much, but for special occasions, we always go back to our Gara pieces. It's part of who we are,' said a young Parsi woman from the city. While one outfit won't create a trend overnight, Lilaowala said its global spotlight is still impactful. 'It creates interest, starts conversations. Someone abroad might read about it, follow our page, and get curious. That alone is valuable,' said Lilaowala, who is known for his experiments in Parsi Gara saris. Today, designers like him are innovating within tradition, blending Gara with bandhani and leheriya. 'It's a classic,' he said. Once reserved for saris worn at weddings and auspicious occasions, Gara has evolved, now appearing on lehengas, jackets, and even kanjivaram silks. 'It will never be massy, but it has huge potential. It's up to designers to find the right aesthetic and continue evolving it,' he said. Poonawalla's Met Gala appearances have been consistently bold, blending art, fashion, and identity. Known for her opulent, avant-garde looks, she's become a fixture at the annual event, and this year, she made her heritage the headline. 'It was a really smart move,' he added. 'For Natasha to use something from her heritage and add such a fine personal touch to her Met Gala outfit,' said Lilaowala.


NDTV
07-05-2025
- Entertainment
- NDTV
Met Gala 2025: 4 Times Indian Heritage Took Over The World's Biggest Fashion Night
Met Gala 2025: This year's Met Gala, with its theme "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style," was about celebrating identity, history, and craft. But while the spotlight was on Black fashion, something else quietly made its way onto the famous steps, something deeply Indian. It showed up in the smallest details: handwoven fabrics, traditional cuts, old-world symbols. Not borrowed. Not reinterpreted. Just carried forward by communities that have been keeping these crafts alive for generations. This was not just about fashion. It was about culture-alive, rooted, and travelling far beyond its borders. And for anyone who loves exploring the stories behind what we wear, it opened a different kind of travel trail. One that leads straight to India's heritage towns, weaving centres, and local workshops-where every thread has a past, and every stitch has a place. 1. Diljit Dosanjh's Royal Tribute To Patiala The Moment: Diljit Dosanjh made a statement at the Met Gala 2025, but it wasn't just his fashion that turned heads - it was the heritage it represented. His custom Prabal Gurung ensemble paid homage to the royal attire of Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala, with an achkan, tehmat, and kirpan (ceremonial sword), all embroidered with Punjab's map and sacred Gurmukhi script. This wasn't just a modern look; it was a nod to centuries of Sikh royalty. Travel Trail: Head to Patiala, where the city's royal history is woven into its textiles. Visit Adalat Bazaar or Sheesh Mahal and discover where traditional Patiala salwars and phulkaris are still handmade by artisans who've been passing down their skills for generations. 2. Kerala's Craftsmanship At The Met: The Red Carpet The Moment: The Met Gala 2025 saw the red carpet not just as an accessory but as a showcase of Kerala's rich weaving tradition. Crafted in Cherthala, Kerala, this 6,840-square-metre carpet was created by the brand Neytt Homes by Extraweave, showcasing Kerala's centuries-old tradition of hand-weaving with sisal fibre. The blue and gold design added a subtle touch of South Indian artistry to the glamour of the event. Travel Trail: A trip to Cherthala in Alappuzha district will take you to the heart of Kerala's coir industry. Watch as artisans craft everything from eco-friendly mats to intricate carpets, and learn the slow, meticulous process that has been passed down through generations. This is where tradition meets sustainability, one weave at a time. 3. Natasha Poonawalla's Parsi Heritage In Couture The Moment: Businesswoman and philanthropist Natasha Poonawalla embraced her Parsi heritage at the 2025 Met Gala, wearing a custom Manish Malhotra creation that paid homage to the Parsi Gara embroidery. The vintage Gara style, once almost lost to time, now shone brightly as part of Poonawalla's statement look, blending Persian influences with Indian traditions. Travel Trail: To see Gara embroidery up close, head to Surat in Gujarat, where the craft lives on in the hands of dedicated artisans. Alternatively, explore Udvada in Gujarat, a sacred Parsi town where these intricate, Chinese-inspired embroideries still hold significance. If you're in Mumbai, check out old Parsi boutiques on Grant Road for heirloom Gara saris passed down through generations. 4. Isha Ambani's Handwoven Benarasi Masterpiece The Moment: At the Met Gala 2025, Isha Ambani turned heads with her elegant outfit, a stunning Benarasi train from Anamika Khanna, showcasing Zardozi embroidery - a traditional craft that has been perfected in Varanasi for centuries. The intricate gold and silver threadwork glimmered, reflecting the rich history of Indian craftsmanship and Mughal-era textiles. Travel Trail: In Varanasi, take a stroll through the winding lanes of Chowk and Madanpura, where you can watch artisans at work, stitching gold and silver threads onto luxurious silks and velvets. To dive deeper into this art, visit the Crafts Museum at Sarnath or plan your trip around festivals like Dev Deepawali, when the streets of Varanasi become a living gallery of Zardozi craftsmanship.


India Today
06-05-2025
- Entertainment
- India Today
When Gara Met Gala: Natasha Poonawalla's dazzling ode to Parsi roots
If being extra is all about this, then bring it on, we say! At the 2025 Met Gala, Natasha Poonawalla enthralled attendees with a custom ensemble by Manish Malhotra that seamlessly blended her ancestral roots with avant-garde fashion. Her outfit prominently featured Parsi Gara embroidery, a craft very close to Poonawalla's Met outfitThe centrepiece of her outfit was a sculpted fishtail skirt, which was meticulously crafted from two vintage Gara saris - one that Manish Malhotra sourced from the archives and the other over a century old. This skirt showcased intricate hand-embroidered motifs, and complementing it was a corset-cummerbund paired with a vintage French lace bralette, edged in scalloped pearls, embodying the essence of dandyism. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Manish Malhotra (@manishmalhotra05)advertisementDraped over the ensemble was a sharply tailored black Gara jacket with bold shoulders, lined in imperial purple, a colour that is historically associated with power and nobility. The jacket featured embroidery in the sacred ektaar technique, where a single continuous thread narrates an unbroken story. Adding a touch of theatricality, a sculptural lace cravat by Atelier Biser adorned the Parsi gara embroidery The Parsi Gara embroidery originated in the 19th century and is a fusion of Persian, Chinese, Indian, and European influences. The embroidery form was introduced to India by the Parsi traders who were returning from China. Eventually, became a symbol of status within the Parsi community and became integral to bridal wear. The embroidery is characterised by motifs of flora, fauna, and mythical creatures. Gara embroidery is traditionally executed on silk fabrics, requiring immense skill and Met Gala 2025advertisementThe Met Gala's theme this year was "Tailored for You," celebrating Black fashion and menswear with a focus on time, the exhibition delves into how dandyism in Black culture goes beyond fashion; it becomes a powerful assertion of autonomy, beauty, and resistance in a world that still seeks to limit Black to mention the host of Indian celebrities making an appearance on the Met's blue carpet. From Shah Rukh Khan's suave black suit to Diljit Dosanjh's Maharaja Bhupinder Singh-inspired look to Kiara Advani's first appearance at the Met Gala flaunting her baby bump, it is safe to say the celebs did homies proud!Must Watch