2 days ago
What's better than a summer tomato? Make these easy peak-of-season recipes
There comes a moment every year around mid-August when the days are noticeably shorter and the reality hits: I gotta start eating more tomatoes!
For the first half of my life, tomatoes were the one food I truly could not stand. When we dined out, I looked for the weirdest thing I could find on the menu and ordered that. At home, I requested liver and onions. But a tomato? Even the memory of a slice on a sandwich, one lonely seed or a speck of the mush that encased it, made me gag.
That changed in my mid-twenties when I tasted my first 'real' tomato from a farmer's market. It was, again, August, and the tomato was a big, lumpy, misshapen thing, an off-shade of red, with a thin skin, a firm, meaty texture and all the flavor I presume a tomato is supposed to have. I'm not going to sit here and try to describe the flavor of a tomato for you. It's summer in Southern California. Go buy one!
The tomato that blew my mind was an heirloom, which refers to tomatoes grown from seeds that have been passed down through the generations. They're, as my mom would say, the 'real deal.' (Many heirloom tomatoes marketed as 'heirloom' in grocery stores aren't really that.) Heirlooms are the pinnacle of tomato greatness, but any good summer tomato, such as a beefsteak tomato, Early Girl or Sungold, is something to celebrate — and savor. When you see them, buy them. Like a good vintage find: My rule of thumb is buy what you love and figure out what to do with it later.
For me, what to do with it often includes using the tomatoes in a quick and easy Greek-inspired salad of wedged tomatoes or halved cherry tomatoes with Persian cucumber, sliced red onion, fresh parsley, mint or both, crumbled feta, olive oil, red wine vinegar and salt. To make it a meal, add a can of garbanzo beans or Garlic Croutons.
BLTs, as far as I'm concerned, are a summer food. So when the first heirlooms make their way home, I make my first BLT sandwiches. I make them on sliced country bread, toasted, slathered with good mayo, meaty thick-sliced bacon (my favorite these days is Trader Joe's black forest bacon), a leaf or two of lettuce (butter lettuce is my preference) and a big slab of heirloom tomato, salted. (If it's not the best BLT you've ever had, let me know what is.)
One of my favorite things to do with the giant lumpy heirlooms is to slice them, lay them on a platter, drizzle them with oil, sprinkle them with salt and, from there, any number of things can happen. I might dress a big bowl of arugula and pile it on top. Or spoon tuna salad over the tomatoes. (That could be regular ol' American style or chunks of Italian tuna mixed with sliced red onion and parsley.)
I discovered the magic of shell beans on tomatoes such as simple stewed white beans or borlotti beans while doing a weeklong internship at Chez Panisse (yes, it was August) and fresh basil or Nancy Silverton's Shell Bean Salad. Nothing about Grilled Sardines With White Bean Salad And Pesto, for me, wouldn't be better on a bed of heirloom tomatoes. And instead of a traditional Caprese made of sliced tomatoes layered with sliced mozzarella (Ti amo, Italia, but can we mix it up a bit?), I add spoonfuls of fresh burrata and a sprinkling of fresh basil leaves. Any of these would make a light meal, and even better with Buttery Garlic Bread on the side.
I love that former L.A. Times Food editor Russ Parsons turns that simple platter of heirlooms into a recipe, and not just a shopping list, by putting pickled shallots on top — and that he mentions my all-time favorite name for a tomato: Radiator Charlie's Mortgage Lifter, so named, so the story goes, because selling the seeds enabled this radiator repair guy, Charlie, to pay off his mortgage.
Not all heirloom tomatoes have such colorful names, but they are just as colorful — they come in a rainbow of shades of pink, yellow, orange, green and striped — and like all heirlooms, they have a story.
In a world where nearly anything and everything is at your access at all time, there's something nice about a thin-skinned, lumpy, misshapen tomato that tastes as it did 100 years ago. Something that doesn't travel. Has a shelf life of a fish out of water. And that, like fresh powder or Christmas, you have to wait all year long for. Something for which there really is no substitute and that, like rainbows, cannot be recreated. That's what makes them special. You just can't get it when you can't get it. So when you can, do! As the saying goes: Carpe freaking tomato!
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American-born Florence-adopted Italian food aficionado Faith Willinger passes the tomatoes through a strainer to remove the seeds, leaving only the sweet pulp and juice for this silky, luxurious tomato salad. Serve it with toasted bread doused in olive oil and burrata or mozzarella on the side. Talk about a girl the recipe. Serves 6 to 8. Cooking time: 15 minutes.
Pan con tomate is a simple Spanish delight that consists of toasted bread smeared with the insides of a (really good) tomato. This recipe suggests that the tomato is 'gently' rubbed on the toast. The way I've been taught to make it, and the way I recommend, is that you rub the tomato on the toast until all the delicious pulp is on or in the toast and the only thing left in your hand is its thin the 1 or 2. Cooking time: 10 minutes.
Heirloom tomato season for me always means summer spaghetti. This recipe closely reflects how I make mine. Skip the step of skinning the tomatoes because heirloom tomatoes have thin skins. I toss the pasta in the same bowl the chopped tomatoes are in. This version is served cold. I like it the 4. Cooking time: 20 minutes.
This salad from L.A.'s 'chicken chef' Josiah Citrin couldn't be simpler — and if you buy the roasted chicken instead of roasting it — which (shhh!) I would — it requires no heat. Just to go overboard with the tomatoes, I'd serve it on a bed of sliced heirlooms. And if I were looking to beef it up, I'd add some white beans — and why not double down on the basil while you're at the recipe. Serves 2. Cooking time: 25 minutes.
Russ Parsons managed to turn a simple platter of sliced heirloom tomatoes into a recipe (and not just a shopping list) by putting pickled shallots on top. With goat cheese toast, it's a midsummer night's the recipe. Serves 4 to 6. Cooking time: 1 hour 15 minutes.
If you remember Hungry Cat, the casual seafood-forward restaurant by chef David Lentz, you probably also remember its tomato and watermelon salad. Dressed with a sweet watermelon vinaigrette and topped with peppery arugula, it's summertime on a the 4. Cooking time: 40 minutes.
Preserve the flavor of summer with this tomato conserva from chef Paul Bertolli's game-changing book Cooking by Hand. Spoon it into pasta sauce, risotto, soups, braises and stews. This recipe calls for 5 pounds of tomatoes, so it's the recipe if you find yourself with a farmers market haul that is quickly over-ripening, or if you've grown your own and have more than you know what to do the 1¼ cups. Cooking time: 20 minutes.
