4 days ago
La Belle Vie: An under-appreciated hiking destination and jumping into the Seine
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In the past few months, I have spent more time exploring the TER (regional train) routes close to Paris. In comparison to high-speed TGV tickets, these journeys are downright cheap.
In May, a friend and I spent a day doing a wine tasting in Chablis in Burgundy. It was a little under two hours on the TER, which left from Bercy and arrived in Auxerre. Last weekend, I took the same TER to go hiking in the Parc naturel régional du Morvan.
Photo of the Lac de Chaumeçon in the Morvan park in Brittany (Photo: Genevieve Mansfield)
If you are a fan of hiking, but you are hesitant about the elevation climb required when hiking in the Alps or Pyrenees, the Morvan is a great alternative. The views are idyllic, with plenty of rolling farmland, forests and lakes.
Morvan: Why you should visit one of France's most beautiful and least known areas
My only complaint about the Morvan was the ticks. Out of our six-person hiking group, only one person avoided the ticks (sadly, not me).
As temperatures rise due to climate change, ticks rejoice (they prefer
warmer, humid climates
).
If you spend any time hiking or walking in French forests this summer, I recommend tucking your trousers into your socks. Otherwise, most French pharmacies sell
tire-tiques
, which are designed to remove ticks without accidentally leaving the head (as can happen with a simple pair of tweezers).
What you should know about ticks in France and how to avoid them
When it was time for dinner after hiking around the Lac du Crescent toward the Lac de Chaumeçon, our options were relatively limited as we were staying in a gîte outside a village. We ate at a 'snack' restaurant (burgers, croque-monsieur sandwiches, frites, among other things).
Still, I wanted to keep things authentic, so I ordered the
burger époisses
with the traditional Burgundy cheese that won the
'World Cup of cheese' in 2023.
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It was extremely satisfying after a seven-hour hike. If the rest of the Burgundy cuisine is as good as that burger, I can easily see why Burgundy made it into the top five regions of France for gastronomy (according to other French people).
Which French foods do French people love the most?
In my previous French hiking adventures, I have always made an effort to stay in mountain refuges. While I enjoy hiking in France for the stunning views, the joy of staying in a refuge is a close rival.
French mountain refuges range in their amenities, but many offer a full dinner, breakfast and even a packed lunch. You might have to put up with sharing a dorm-style room with a few strangers, but nothing beats a home-cooked meal while watching the sunset over the Alps.
Everything you need to know about staying in a French mountain refuge
Another side effect of climate change is that each year the ski season gets a little shorter, and the 'skiable' resorts move higher up the mountain. My theory is that the Alps will become more enticing for summer visitors as skiing becomes more expensive and elusive.
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That said, the mountains can be dangerous in the summer, too. Recently, a British hiker had to be rescued following a rockslide in Italy's Dolomite mountains - he was hit with a €14,000 bill for the rescue because he had ignored signs warning that the path was closed due to the danger of rockslides.
Similar rescues are also carried out in France each summer, but you probably will not find yourself with the same hefty bill.
Are you likely to face a bill for a mountain rescue in France?
For those who prefer to stay in the city during the summer, you don't need the lakes of the Morvan or the Alps; you can just go for a swim in the Seine.
Despite a rainy July, over 35,000 people have gone swimming in the Seine since the river opened to bathers in June. I've heard a reliable rumour (from a certain editor of The Local France) that the best time to go is in the morning, right after the swimming areas open.
Everything you need to know about swimming in the Seine in Paris this summer
