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The rise and fall of Versace: Can Prada's £1 billion buyout save Donatella's legacy?
The rise and fall of Versace: Can Prada's £1 billion buyout save Donatella's legacy?

Daily Mail​

time17-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Daily Mail​

The rise and fall of Versace: Can Prada's £1 billion buyout save Donatella's legacy?

I first met Donatella Versace 19 years ago, but still clearly remember it. The platinum-coiffed queen of bling finished her Italian breakfast – a Marlboro Red and a double espresso – and wiggled through the glass doors leading to her design studio in Milan. She began pinning a navy blue A-line dress on a model and talked and talked and smoked and smoked. She explained her style aesthetic: bleached blonde hair, Bikini Atoll tan, the darkest eye make-up on the planet and dresses cut up to 'here' (indicating the top of her thighs), and down to 'there' (making a plunging V on her chest). 'I don't like natural,' she told me. 'For me, natural has something to do with vegetables.' How we loved her and her brother Gianni. They were the king and queen of 1980s splash 'n' spend luxe. They invented celebrity culture, once persuading the world's top four supermodels of the time – Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington – to walk the runway together to George Michael 's 'Freedom'. They created two of the most famous dresses ever made – Elizabeth Hurley 's safety-pin gown and Jennifer Lopez 's barely there jungle-print number – sanctioning outward displays of self-assured feminine sexuality. Gianni's acid yellow and gold baroque fantasy home on South Beach did more than Don Johnson to put Miami on the global style circuit and Versace was the first label to move on from styling clothes to styling suites. In 2000 the fashion house opened its inaugural opulent hotel on Australia's Gold Coast, south of Brisbane. I checked in shortly afterwards and it is the only hotel I have left, got to the end of the driveway and turned round and checked back in again. How could I resist one more night in Elton John heaven? Gianni was murdered in 1997 and now, after almost 30 years carrying the Medusa-head torch for excess, Donatella has left the palazzo. Last month Prada Group revealed it had bought Versace for £1 billion after its US owner, Capri Holdings, failed to reverse a dip in sales and profits as low as a Versace neckline. Under Capri, Versace's annual sales slumped to a meagre £600 million last year, compared with £6.5 billion for Gucci. 'Commercially, Versace is all but dead,' said Jonathan Siboni, chief executive of Paris-based research analyst Luxurynsight, when the deal was announced. Donatella, now 71, will stay on in an ambassadorial role. Following the news, she told her 12.5 million Instagram followers: 'It has been the greatest honour of my life to carry on my brother Gianni's legacy.' Prada could scarcely be more different from Versace. Miuccia Prada, founder of the label as we know it, is a former communist whose collections are avant garde and come mainly in her favourite colour: grey. But might, just might, opposites attract? Could Prada bring Versace back from the brink? One man who should know the answer is the chief executive who worked with Donatella when the label last turned a healthy profit. Jonathan Akeroyd, Versace's CEO from 2016 to 2022, is 'very excited' by what Prada will do. 'Versace has incredible brand equity. A lot of people can instantly identify Versace, while they wouldn't be able to identify Valentino, Fendi or Ferragamo,' Akeroyd says. He adds that its Milan atelier 'is one of the best in the world' and the brand boasts big fragrance, underwear, homeware and fashion jewellery businesses. Prada is the right owner, he says. It is an Italian family business, 'which matters to a quintessentially Italian family brand like Versace'. It also has cash to invest. Prada Group is listed in Hong Kong, with a market capitalisation of nearly £12 billion. Since the pandemic, sales have continued to grow despite a downturn in the luxury market. Revenues rose 17 per cent to £4.6 billion last year. Prada 'has an incredible awareness of product, merchandising and marketing and it executes it as well as the mighty Louis Vuitton', says Akeroyd. Its expertise in Italian manufacturing, notably shoes and bags, will be a great asset. Versace lacks an It-bag or shoe line, which is odd for a brand that, until the Prada deal, was run by a woman who is so fond of stilettos she once said: 'I never wear flats. Every time I wear them I fall over.' A make-up line could be another growth segment. Fashion analysts say the key to success will be 'persuading people to think about visiting a Versace boutique after years when it has not been on their shopping list', as Luca Solca at Bernstein puts it. After decades of 'doing the same old thing and losing relevance', Versace 'needs to interpret the Versace code in a modern way that creates buzz'. Solca suggests Prada should take a leaf out of the playbook of Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri, the creative directors who were hired to revive Valentino. 'They introduced the metal Rockstuds, which instantly made the brand's shoes and bags desirable.' Much rests on the youthful shoulders of Dario Vitale, 41, Versace's new creative director. He helped to create the wildly successful rebel college girl look at Prada's little sister brand Miu Miu. Can lightning strike twice? Fashion and luxury industry adviser Achim Berg sees advantages in Prada's 'growing property portfolio'. Versace's 230 boutiques and 600 other points of sale in department stores and outlet stores are, he argues, too much for a brand with a relatively small turnover. He recommends swapping a few Versace boutiques for Miu Miu. Versace and Prada executives will be swapping places, too, he predicts. 'Renewal will happen on the management and creative side.' Hospitality analysts hope Versace expands its hotel operations beyond Dubai, now its sole venue after the Australian property was sold in 2023 (it had become tired). Better operators could help; perhaps Four Seasons which is on a roll now thanks to its association with the hit TV show The White Lotus. Put it all together and Berg reckons that Versace could generate over £2 billion in annual sales. What of Donatella herself? Those who are close to Prada say that she may have a role in the celebrity side of the business. They point out that she has 'a good eye and has consistently chosen the right supermodels, actors and musicians for Versace', as one puts it – one of the latest being Lady Gaga. She could be key in persuading new stars to front 'fresh and young' advertising campaigns that connect with a generation that doesn't remember the 80s glory days. But Donatella won't be back in the Milan studio. As someone well acquainted with her puts it, 'Prada knows that if they let her in, she wouldn't be able to stop herself getting involved in design because she loves it so much. She'd be in the office all the time and it would be a distraction.' In that case, I should give the last word to Donatella because what she told me 19 years ago seems appropriate today. The queen of glitz said she wanted to re-establish Versace as 'the ultimate Italian luxury lifestyle brand' with clothes, accessories, jewellery, homeware, hotels and travel goods. 'A unique 360-degree lifestyle, 365 days a year – an Italian dream,' she said. Over to you, Miuccia Prada. Dream big.

Donatella Versace savages 'disgraceful' Miami hotel 'trying to capitalize on family tragedy'
Donatella Versace savages 'disgraceful' Miami hotel 'trying to capitalize on family tragedy'

Daily Mail​

time15-05-2025

  • Business
  • Daily Mail​

Donatella Versace savages 'disgraceful' Miami hotel 'trying to capitalize on family tragedy'

Donatella Versace has slammed a Miami hotel and restaurant for using her name for profit. Nakash Group and Vida & Estilo turned her late brother Gianni Versace 's sprawling home, where he was gunned down in 1997, into two hospitality establishments. The two businesses are calling the spaces Donatella Boutique Hotel & Restaurant. In response, the 70-year-old designer — who recently stepped down as Versace Creative Director — shared a statement on social media condemning the move. 'Let me be clear. The hotel and restaurant named Donatella, located near our former family home in Miami, will never have anything to do with me or my family. To try to capitalize on our tragedy and my name for profit is disgraceful,' she wrote on Instagram. According to the publication Ocean Drive, chef Alessandro Morrone's restaurant will accommodate up to 170 patrons, and the hotel will have six rooms. The style inspiration behind the lodging and eatery is 'Mediterranean-inspired coastal elegance.' Offerings will include a spa, private beach access, daybed rentals, a fitness center and jet ski rentals. Page Six reported this week that the Nakash family scooped up Gianni's mansion for $41.5 million in 2013. It had previously been sold to telecommunications tycoon Peter Loftin by the Versace camp in 2000. The fashion mogul's death sent shock waves through the country on July 15, 1997 when he was murdered at the hands of serial killer Andrew Cunanan. Upon returning to his home in South Miami Beach that day, he was shot twice and collapsed to his death on the front steps. In March Donatella exited her post as the head of the fashion giant founded by her brother Gianni amid 'issues' between her and Capri Holdings, which bought the label in 2018. The Italian fashionista had filled the role since Gianni's death, but has now been replaced by Dario Vitale. Her departure was announced on Instagram and revealed that she would assume the role of Chief Brand Ambassador starting April 1. 'In her new role she will dedicate herself to the support of Versace's philanthropic and charitable endeavors and remain an advocate for the brand globally,' a joint post between Donatella and the official Versace accounts read. Donatella said: 'Championing the next generation of designers has always been important to me. It's been the greatest honour of my life to carry on my brother Gianni's legacy. He was the true genius but I hope to have some of his spirit and tenacity.' Sources close to both parties said that things have been 'very difficult' between Donatella and Capri for some time, despite her being hailed as the savior of the brand in part by attracting A-list celebrities to the clothes.

A major Gianni Versace exhibition is opening in London this summer
A major Gianni Versace exhibition is opening in London this summer

Time Out

time06-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Time Out

A major Gianni Versace exhibition is opening in London this summer

If you've seen the American Crime Story series on his assassination, you'll know something of the story of Gianni Versace, the socialite, businessman and fashion designer who founded one of Italy's most respected luxury fashion houses. Born in Calabria in 1946, Versace worked in his family's tailor shop before moving to Milan to establish his eponymous label in 1978. Over the following two decades, he became one of the fashion industry's most powerful and influential figures before his untimely death in 1997, dressing everyone from Liz Hurley, Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss to Princess Diana, Elton John and George Michael. Some of those iconic looks will feature in a major retrospective of the designer arriving in London this summer. Opening at The Arches in London Bridge on Wednesday July 16, Gianni Versace Retrospective will feature over 450 items, including original garments and accessories, personal sketches, interviews and photographs, many of which have never been displayed in the UK before now. Central to the exhibition is a vibrant chronology of looks charting showcasing Versace's craftsmanship, innovation and immediately recognisable aesthetic across 21 collections, from Spring/Summer 1988 to Autumn/Winter 1997-98, the last show before Versace was murdered in 1997. Amongst there pieces on display will be examples of the designer's most iconic motifs, from daring designs referencing bondage, to the opulent baroque-inspired prints that are still synonymous with the brand today. Previous iterations of the exhibition have already toured to the Netherlands, Poland, Germany, Sweden and Spain, but speaking of the London opening, curator Karl von der Ahe, said 'Bringing this retrospective to London feels especially meaningful. Gianni Versace's bold, unapologetic vision revolutionised fashion, and this city—so rich in creativity and cultural influence—provides the perfect stage to celebrate his legacy. We're thrilled to share these iconic pieces in one of the world's fashion capitals.' Tickets for the exhibition are £23, and will be available via a presale on Tuesday May 20 to those signing up via the exhibition's website, before going on general sale the following day.

Versace exhibition to feature pieces worn by Princess Di, Kate Moss
Versace exhibition to feature pieces worn by Princess Di, Kate Moss

Observer

time03-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Observer

Versace exhibition to feature pieces worn by Princess Di, Kate Moss

A retrospective exhibition of the work of Gianni Versace is to feature 450 items from the fashion designer's career, including clothes worn by Princess Diana, Kate Moss, and Elton John. The "Gianni Versace Retrospective," held at Arches London Bridge, will also showcase pieces worn by the likes of Naomi Campbell, George Michael, and Liz Hurley, many of which have never been displayed before, when it opens on 16th July. It will also explore how Versace's work was inspired by London and his friendships with Elton John and Diana, featuring 21 collections from Spring/Summer 1988 to Autumn/Winter 1997-1998 on display. Liz Koravos, managing director of Arches London Bridge, said: "Arches London Bridge is delighted to host this opulent journey through the life and career of Gianni Versace. "As a genius of his time, it's fascinating to see these incredible collections assembled under the curved arches of the venue. "Gianni Versace ties to so much in modern culture, and his legacy is enduring—a mark of a talented designer. "Versace was a pioneer in collaborative art, something that is commonplace these days. The crossover between fashion, music, pop culture, fine art, antiquities, sculpture, and the rise of the supermodel is all encapsulated in his work. "The biggest collection of vintage Versace to ever visit the UK will give visitors a kaleidoscopic view of the 90s. It's not to be missed." Tickets will go on general sale on 21st May, with a pre-sale being held beforehand. Versace was murdered in 1997, leaving his sister Donatella to shape the brand's modern identity. She stepped down from her role as chief creative officer in March this year, being replaced by Dario Vitale. In recent years, the brand has created designs beloved by the likes of Dua Lipa, Angelina Jolie, and Sabrina Carpenter. Versace is celebrated as an iconic fashion designer combining bold colours and classical art elements. He significantly impacted popular culture by collaborating with celebrities and supermodels, helping to elevate their status. The Medusa logo symbolizes the brand's allure, reflecting Versace's love for mythology. He blurred the lines between fashion and art, making his collections statements rather than just clothes. —PA Media/dpa

Gianni Versace exhibition coming to London
Gianni Versace exhibition coming to London

Fashion United

time01-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Fashion United

Gianni Versace exhibition coming to London

The major Gianni Versace Retrospective exhibition, which has already visited the Netherlands, Poland, Germany, Sweden and Spain, is coming to London this summer featuring the largest collection of vintage Gianni Versace designs ever to be displayed in the UK. The Gianni Versace Retrospective will bring more than 450 original vintage garments and accessories, including those worn by Princess Diana, Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, Sir Elton John, and George Michael, alongside personal sketches, interviews and photographs to the showcase the designer's craftsmanship, innovation, and unmistakable aesthetic. The exhibition will open at Arches London Bridge on July 16 and promises to offer fashion fans in the UK access to 'an era-defining collection of fashion masterpieces,' many of which have never been displayed in the UK before. Gianni Versace Retrospective exhibition in Malaga, featuring Kate Moss Credits: Gianni Versace Retrospective by Paula Caballero Curator Karl von der Ahe from Dreamrealizer, said in a statement: 'Bringing this retrospective to London feels especially meaningful. Gianni Versace's bold, unapologetic vision revolutionised fashion, and this city - so rich in creativity and cultural influence - provides the perfect stage to celebrate his legacy. We're thrilled to share these iconic pieces in one of the world's fashion capitals." Gianni Versace Retrospective to open in London on July 16 Organisers add that the exhibition has been updated and expanded for the UK and will offer a unique retrospective, which celebrates a visionary designer whose groundbreaking work catapulted the Versace brand to international success that has sustained almost 30 years after his death. The exhibit will offer a vibrant chronology of looks on display from 21 collections, from spring/summer 1988 to autumn/winter 1997-98, including opulent baroque prints to daring bondage designs, alongside original catwalk show footage, videos, magazines and photographs. Gianni Versace Retrospective exhibition in Malaga Credits: Gianni Versace Retrospective Liz Koravos, managing director of Arches London Bridge, added: 'Arches London Bridge is delighted to host this opulent journey through the life and career of Gianni Versace. As a genius of his time, it's fascinating to see these incredible collections assembled under the curved arches of the venue. Gianni Versace ties to so much in modern culture and his legacy is enduring, a mark of a talented designer. Versace was a pioneer in collaborative art, something that is commonplace these days. 'The crossover between fashion, music, pop culture, fine art, antiquities, sculpture and the rise of the supermodel is all encapsulated in his work. The biggest collection of vintage Versace to ever visit the UK will give visitors a kaleidoscopic view of the 90's. It's not to be missed.' Gianni Versace Retrospective exhibition in Malaga Credits: Gianni Versace Retrospective

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