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National Geographic
28-02-2025
- Entertainment
- National Geographic
What to know about Caribbean Carnival history before your next visit
More than just a party, Carnival is a tradition steeped in history. We delve into unique celebrations across the islands, from stickfighting and chipping in Trinidad to Junkanoo in the Bahamas. It's Carnival season in the Caribbean. Here's how to experience it. In Barbados, Grand Kadooment Day is traditionally held on the first Monday in August every year to mark the end of the six-week celebration, Crop Over, and the end of the sugarcane harvest. In Barbados, Grand Kadooment Day is traditionally held on the first Monday in August every year to mark the end of the six-week celebration, Crop Over, and the end of the sugarcane harvest. In Barbados, Grand Kadooment Day is traditionally held on the first Monday in August every year to mark the end of the six-week celebration, Crop Over, and the end of the sugarcane harvest. In Barbados, Grand Kadooment Day is traditionally held on the first Monday in August every year to mark the end of the six-week celebration, Crop Over, and the end of the sugarcane harvest. More than two dozen countries make up the Caribbean, each with its own vernacular, history, food, and culture. Despite these distinctions, one tradition connects every island—Carnival. Born from the ingenuity of enslaved African people determined to survive in the face of brutality, the tradition has survived over the years with much of the same song, dance, and even mockery that were integral parts of its original movement. An illustration published in the Journal Des Voyages (1891) captures revelers at Carnival in Port of Spain, Trinidad. Print Via Bridgeman Images Historians believe that Carnival started in the late 18th century in Trinidad and Tobago, where enslaved people banned from participating in the masquerades and pre-Lenten celebrations of French plantation owners created their defiant rituals. The discarded garments of their oppressors were made into costumes for satirical re-enactments of the opulent balls they could not attend. Coded language to communicate and drumming would birth Calypso music. Bodies deliberately covered in black mud and paint celebrated the skin tone the enslaved were punished for. Today, celebrations like J'ouvert reenact this symbolic gesture, as people—with skin that gleams in black oil and hands that hold broken chains—fill the streets in revelry and remembrance from dusk to dawn. Nearly 300 years later, Carnival draws thousands of people around the world to the islands with the height of celebrations culminating around Ash Wednesday. I've been fortunate to have experienced nearly every Caribbean Carnival, and each time I leave, I feel a tabanca—a Trinidadian word used to express a longing for what once was. The energy of Carnival is undeniably captivating, evident by the popular recaps on social media that have made it more mainstream. As the tradition continues to grow in popularity, my hope is that its roots and the enslaved people who made it possible will not be forgotten. So much more than glittering costumes and non-stop partying, Carnival is a testimony to resilience and the ability to find joy through the most difficult times. Delve into the history of five islands Carnival celebrations on five islands and how to best experience the island on a visit. (Related: Top 10 things to know about Mardi Gras.) In Fort-de-France, band members perform during the Carnival parade on the French Caribbean island of Martinique. The island's Carnival celebration culminates on Ash Wednesday, when Vaval, a giant papier-mache figure symbolizing the king of the carnival, is burned. Photograph By JEAN-MICHEL ANDRE/AFP via Getty Images Carnival in Martinique Martinique's rich Carnival history originated in the town of Saint-Pierre in the 17th and 18th centuries. While wealthy island colonists attended lavish parties, enslaved Africans used satire and their traditions of music, dance, and costume as a means for creative freedom and celebration. Today, Martinique's Carnival kicks off with the daytime parades of Dimanche Gras (Fat Sunday) and sightings of the Nèg gwo siwo—people who smear their bodies in sugarcane syrup and charcoal as a remembrance to the legendary fugitive slaves from the region. Burlesque parties on Monday's Lundi Gras and the red devil dress theme on Tuesday's Mardi Gras bring thousands to the street. For a great taste of the energy of Martinique's nightlife during this time of year, join a party with Ethnique Carnival on Lundi Gras, and don't miss the quick-to-sell-out, stylish soirees of event planners A Beautiful Life Mood. Both offer great opportunities to support local businesses that seek to keep the tradition of costume parties alive. On Ash Wednesday, the final day of Carnival, parade goers watch the ceremonial burning of King Vaval, an effigy that symbolizes the social issues of the time. Women in traditional clothing parade through the streets to celebrate Carnival in Martinique. Photograph ByA group of majorettes march in the 1950 Carnival parade in Fort-de-France, Martinique. Photograph By Michel Huet / Contributor/ Getty Images Travel tips for Carnival in Martinique For the best view on any day, plant yourself on the corner of Fort de France's Rue de la Liberté, lined with cafes and lively bars. Travelers can get a first-hand experience of the inventiveness that defines Martinique's Carnival with Sylvaine Eneelda, an artist who creates papier-mâché masks inspired by Martinican folklore. Stop by her Atelier ARTPERKUT studio in the capital city of Fort-de-France, located in Palais de Justice. The best accommodation to be near the daily action is the 95-room Simon Hotel, just steps away from many of Fort-de-France's restaurants and bars. To cool down after the crowds subside, visitors should consider the intimately chic French Coco Hotel, and don't skip a visit to the wellness retreat of Bouliki Bio, where riverside massages and cocoa body scrubs in a peaceful rainforest will leave you centered and ready to return for more. When hunger strikes, make your way to Galanga Fish Bar, where fresh catches of the day get sliced and diced into tataki and ceviche or fried to accompany chips. For dining in the heart of capital Fort-de-France, Yellow House serves a memorable duck confit and an extensive wine list. (Related: 6 of the best Italian Carnivals beyond Venice, from north to south.) Martinique's Carnival draws thousands of people to the streets of Fort-de-France. Photograph By JEAN-MICHEL ANDRE/AFP via Getty Junkanoo in the Bahamas Junkanoo, a uniquely Bahamian celebration, is held on Boxing Day and New Year's Day. Originating in the 16th century, this celebration embraces African traditions used by enslaved people to celebrate their culture during the holidays. Today, the music-filled parade is a colorful spectacle of handcrafted costumes called 'junkanoo suits' that glitter along Nassau's downtown streets. Participants spend months preparing kaleidoscopic floats and the impeccably detailed costumes worn with pride down streets for thousands of onlookers. Children are also involved in this annual tradition, and it's impossible not to be impressed by the level of detail in both choreography of movement. In the Bahamas, performers take part in the traditional Bahamian Junkanoo celebration in Nassau's Parliament Square. Photograph By Jane Barlow/PA Wire/AP Images Travel tips for Junkanoo in the Bahamas For a better understanding of this sacred tradition, visit the The Bahamas Museum of Junkanoo. Beyond the crowds of Junkanoo, consider Bon Vivants' highly curated cocktail list, with offerings that deliciously marry Caribbean fruits and spirits. For revelers looking for a luxurious beachside homebase, The Ocean Club, A Four Seasons Resort, serves up a fresh catch of the day and silky ceviches with sea views on a prime slice of white sand. (Related: Everything you should know about the Bahamas.) Bahamian performers march down Nassau's Bay Street in elaborate crepe paper costumes and bang on cowbells as they celebrate Junkanoo, a traditional festival celebrated on Boxing Day and New Year's Day in the Bahamas. Photograph ByCarnival in Guadeloupe From the first Sunday in January to Ash Wednesday, the island of Guadeloupe comes alive with one of the world's most culturally rich carnival celebrations in the Caribbean. Unlike the big parties of Trinidad and Barbados that have become more mainstream, Guadeloupe's carnival remains centered on the people of the island and their pride in their culture and tradition. From the sounds of goatskin-stretched drums echoing through the streets to stilted figures called moko-zobis that tower above crowds, it is impossible to leave this carnival without feeling its electric authenticity. An aerial view shows a long procession of giant dolls towering over the people on the streets in Olinda. This parade starts at Largo do Guadalupe and then proceeds up the slopes of Olinda's historic center. Photograph By Rafael VieiraAGIF/ Associated Press Travel tips for Carnival in Guadeloupe Charging through the streets with military step precision, Klé La continues the tradition of the carnival 'po group' that taps into ancestral sounds of chanting and drumming to fuel their communal gathering. Along with other spectators, you can witness their dynamic energy every Sunday leading up to Carnival on the streets of Pointe-à-Pitre and beyond alongside other spectators. Beyond Carnival festivities, visitors to Guadeloupe can experience the island's rich cocoa history with a workshop at Gwakako, where you'll learn about the maturation of cocoa pods and even make your own cocoa tea and bars. For a quick bite to eat, try the island's bokit—a handheld sandwich similar to a lightly fried naan bread that comes filled with options like grilled chicken or steak—or enjoy a seaside dinner at Le Grand Bleu. Visit the The Mémorial ACTe Museum, which features exhibits that retrace the history of the slave trade all the way to present day. It's a powerful opportunity to understand Guadeloupe's history and heroes of resistance in one of the largest cultural centers dedicated to the memory of the slave trade. For an accommodation option, the beachside La Creole Hotel & Spa is centrally located and offers junior suites for larger groups. (Related: Beyond the beach: Top things to do when visiting Guadeloupe.) Dressed-up revelers run to join the carnival parade in Basse-Terre in Guadeloupe. Photograph By CEDRICK ISHAM CALVADOS/AFP via Getty Images Mas Dominik in Dominica The lush island of Dominica draws revelers to its streets, flanked by teeming rainforests that provide the ultimate paradisiacal setting. Also known as Mas Dominik, Carnival here embraces similar traditions of its neighboring islands, including J'ouvert, pageants, street parades with Calypso music, and a kiddie carnival. People on stilts march in Dominica's Carnival parade. Photograph ByTravel tips for Mas Dominik in Dominica During my first visit to Dominica's Carnival, I was equally enamored with both the nonstop celebrations and the island's topography. It's easy to see why the country is referred to as Nature Island. Seventy-five percent of the island is covered with rainforests, alongside bubbling hot springs, waterfalls, and over 300 rivers. Make InterContinental Dominica Cabrits Resort & Spa—which sits along a flourishing natural reserve—your homebase for all the celebrations. The property is currently offering a Carnival Package that includes breakfast and transportation to two Carnival events. To understand the beauty of Dominica in a more remote setting, check into the cliffside, all-villa Secret Bay Resort. Black sand beaches, private plunge pools, and an outdoor chef's table experience are just a few perks that heralded awards for the best luxury hotel in the Caribbean. (Related: Big-time adventures on an island where nature rules.) Crop Over in Barbados While the culmination of events for many Carnivals occurs around Lent, Barbados's celebration, Crop Over, takes center stage every summer. In the 17th century, the island was one of the world's largest sugarcane producers. When the harvest season ended, typically in the summer, enslaved people who sustained the booming economy celebrated, hence the name 'crop over.' The celebration of Barbados's resilience and critical influence in the Caribbean's agricultural economy makes this time of year a source of pride for many Bajans. A series of events culminates into Carnival Monday, called Grand Kadoomen, where a sea of feathers and bacchanalia sweep across the island. Musicians play in the street during the Crop Over festival in Bridgetown, Barbados. Photograph By Bob Thomas/Popperfoto via Getty Images Travel tips for Crop Over in Barbados You can also experience Bajan culture first-hand with visits to island mainstays like the weekly Oistins Fish Fry, beachside La Cabane, and Cuz's Fish Shack, famous for their addictive fried fish sandwiches called cutters. When thirst strikes, take your pick at some 1500 rum shops around the island, which is considered the birthplace of rum. For a more formal tour, schedule a visit at Mount Gay for a variety of experiences that include chocolate and rum pairings and a cocktail masterclass. (Related: Where to eat in Barbados, from fish shacks to innovative restaurants.) Carnival in Trinidad Often called the greatest show on earth, Trinidad's Carnival is the blueprint for many first-time or repeat bachannalists. The island is also considered the birthplace of Carnival, created by enslaved Africans who burnt sugarcane (called Canboulay) as an act of rebellion against plantation slavery. After slavery was abolished in 1838, the British government tried to prohibit Canboulay alongside other sacred practices like drumming, masquerading, and steelpan music. The formerly enslaved Trinidadians fought back in a series of riots—a stance that would ensure Carnival would continue today. Taken March 1946, this photo captures men playing steel drums during a street carnival in Port of Spain, Trinidad. Photograph By Earl Leaf/MichaelMuch of Trinidadian culture perfectly complements the energy of Carnival, including words that refer to partying and socializing—like limin', fetin', and gettin' on bad. Trinidad's Carnival requires pacing, as celebrations are offered around the clock, and sleep can quickly become a distant memory. Carnival Monday and Tuesday take over the streets of Port of Spain, while other fetes commence on hillsides, beaches, and boats. Stickfighting, the Panorama steelpan competition, and chipping (dancing) down the road during J'ouvert are all integral parts of the experience, too. Then there's the soundtrack for it all—soca. This mashup of East Indian and West African sounds is the lighter that ignites every moving body during Carnival. It's easy to get overwhelmed by the number of events listed online, but I've never been disappointed by any production by the Trinidadian festival production company, Caesar's Army, particularly a themed extravaganza that ends in paint, powder, splashes of rum, and even waterslides. Miss Universe 1998, Wendy Fitzwilliam, performed with a band for a "Shimmer and Lace" act as part of the Trinidad Carnival at the Queen's Park Savannah in Port of Spain, Trinidad (2018). Photograph ByTravel tips for Carnival in Trinidad Fuel up with some of the island's most delicious foods, including corn chowder, doubles—two fried pieces of dough stuffed with chickpeas and mango chow—and a fruit salad with lime juice and spices. In the northern part of the island, Maracas Beach is home to sunbathers and Richard's Bake and Shark. Line up with the rest of the crowds to try the island's famous fish sandwich, housed between two pillowy soft pieces of bread called bake and topped with condiments that include mango chutney and tamarind sauce. Trinidad is also home to a leatherback turtle nestling ground at Matura Beach. You can witness hatchlings first-hand with a conservation group called Nature Seekers. When sleep finally does call, check into the centrally located Hyatt Regency, home to a rooftop pool and plenty of guests from around the world. (Related: 8 of the best Caribbean carnivals.) Kristin Braswell is a travel journalist and founder of Vogue, Bon Appetit, USA Today, NPR, Architectural Digest, and the Los Angeles Times, among others. is a travel journalist and founder of Crush Global Travel . She has penned pieces for, USA Today, NPR,, and the, among others.
The Independent
19-02-2025
- Entertainment
- The Independent
The Barbados edit: Best Bajan experiences, from festivals to live music, luxe events and foodie feasts
There's always something happening in beautiful, beachy Barbados, so whether you're a carnival fan, firm foodie, or love live music, you'll find incredible experiences to suit every passion. What's more, travellers heading to Barbados this year can enjoy incredible discounts of up to 65 per cent on select hotels and an array of attractions and activities across the island, while indulging in the island's vibrant culinary scene through exclusive menu offers from participating restaurants. Here we delve into just some of the best activities, events and unmissable adventures you can enjoy on this wonderful, welcoming island. Catch a carnival The Crop Over festival transforms Barbados into an island-wide party with music, parades and dancing everywhere you look. More than 100,000 people take part in this annual gathering, which traditionally marks the end of the island's sugar cane season. This year, the fun kicks off in July and the excitement peaks on the Grand Kadooment Day, featuring costumed revellers in bands, parading and dancing to great calypso songs blasting from the music trucks driving along the sizzling streets. The Crop Over festival is where Rihanna "got her style groove" according to fashion writers. You may just find yours there, too. Head to Holetown If you'd prefer a smaller but equally fun celebration then Holetown Festival on the West Coast of Barbados is your friend. It's a bouncy, colourful and family-friendly jamboree that celebrates the arrival of the first settlers to the island back in 1627. With a steel band concert, nightly shows, and a floodlit tattoo and night parade, the week-long event showcases the rich cultural heritage and traditions of Barbados. Relax with some reggae The Barbados Reggae Festival is your chance to plunge yourself into the beating heart of reggae music. Renowned local and international reggae artists gather on the island in April to conjure up a rhythmic menu of reggae and dancehall. The music is only part of the fun: there are several beach parties and themed get-togethers across multiple events, including Reggae On The Hill. This year is the 20th anniversary of this festival, so the vibe is set to be better than ever. Enjoy a foodventure Culinary fans should book their trip to coincide with the vibrant Barbados Food and Rum Festival. This event has been named the Caribbean's Best Culinary Festival at the World Culinary Awards two years running. Held annually in October, food lovers from around the globe descend to enjoy the island's famed culinary experiences, with local and international chefs joining the eminent local mixologists to serve up fine food, drink and Bajan hospitality. Another foodie must-experience is the Oistins Fish Festival, held annually over the Easter weekend in the pretty fishing village of Oistins, on the south coast. It celebrates the local fishing industry, with music, crafts and delicious local food. Dubbed one for the whole family, it includes an Easter bonnet competition, egg and spoon races, a fish boning competition and a hilarious contest where youngsters compete to reach the top of a greased pole. Explore the nightlife By day, Harbour Lights on the stunning Carlisle Bay is a popular beach club, with loungers, umbrellas, and turtle and shipwreck snorkel tours, but at night, it transforms into a thrilling venue offering pulsating steel pan rhythms, stilt walkers, costumed dancers, and a live band. On Friday evenings you can party under the stars as the venue turns into an open-air nightclub. For bar-hopping, head to St Lawrence Gap, known as 'The Gap' by locals. Here you can watch the sunset with a cocktail at On The Bay or Mimosas Trattoria and Bar, or head indoors for a great dining experience at Cocktail Kitchen, and finally take your pick from the late-night bars where you can party into the small hours of the morning. Get sporty Barbados lives and breathes cricket, and you can hear the sweet sound of leather on willow in villages across the island. The cream of the action is at the celebrated Kensington Oval, where you can take in an international Test Match or a One-Day match, soaking up the incredible atmosphere with music, dancing, drinking and delicious food. No one does cricket quite like the Barbadians. For more adventurous sports fans there's the Barbados Open Water Festival, with a variety of open water swim races that are open for all ages and abilities, as well as fun social events where the athletes and spectators can rub shoulders. It's held in November at the Barbados Yacht Club in the tranquil, crescent-shaped Carlisle Bay. If boating is more your drift, Barbados Sailing Week in January promises incredible sailing experiences, races, beach parties and delicious Bajan food and drink. The perfect way to explore the island, cuisine and culture.
