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Sydney Morning Herald
01-08-2025
- Sydney Morning Herald
One of the world's most isolated places is the ultimate cruise destination
It isn't just wildlife numbers that have an impact on visitors to South Georgia. You get closer to animals here than almost anywhere else in the world. Close enough to admire the sheen on penguins' feathers, to be alarmed by the fierce beaks of giant petrels, and to look into seals' watery black eyes. South Georgia beats the Arctic and Svalbard, where you're lucky to see only a few walrus or polar bears at a distance. It's even harder to get to, however. The British Overseas Territory is 1300 kilometres from the nearest permanent habitation in the Falkland Islands, and 2000 kilometres east of the South American mainland. South Georgia has no airport. Unless you join the British Antarctic Survey, the only way to get here is on an expedition cruise in summer. I'm here with Aurora Expeditions, a top choice for this remote and rugged destination. The inverted bow of Greg Mortimer provides increased stability in rough waters, and abundant decks a grandstand onto icebergs and drifting seabirds if you can stand the cold. Two well-placed hot tubs are terrific if you can't. Wind and waves set the agenda in this volatile environment, so you need an experienced company and expedition team that knows the best places to sail and land. I'm lucky to have Aurora's founder Greg Mortimer himself on board. The legendary adventurer – the first Australian (with Tim Macartney-Snape) to climb Mount Everest and various other big peaks, including Antarctica's highest – has led more than 80 expeditions to Antarctica. Every excursion brings something different. Hercules Bay has macaroni penguins with jaunty yellow head feathers, and a laziness of elephant seals as big as boulders. Fortuna Bay is encrusted with glaciers and bands of buckled rock, and jammed with fur seals and their newly born pups. The sun is bright on a silvery sea as we sail into Stromness Bay, illuminating alpine peaks. The ship's Observation Lounge, with coffee in hand, is my box onto the grand opera of scenery. By the time we anchor, clouds are low and the wind furious. What looked beautiful now seems desolate and grey, but going ashore is just as wonderful. By far the biggest pleasure of expedition cruising is the chance to tap into expert knowledge, and I soon find myself fascinated by lichen, cloud patterns and the penguin life cycle. Twice-daily talks by the expedition team add informative and entertaining detail to South Georgia's natural history. One afternoon, we land at St Andrew's Bay. Dozens of elephant seals are slumped on the beach. Fur seals are everywhere. The king penguin rookery is the biggest in South Georgia, with perhaps well over half a million animals. When I see Linda, I have to admit that my amazement at the wildlife all those days ago was indeed premature. The numbers are difficult to fathom. The island is home to most of the world's Antarctic fur seals and half its elephant seals, plus some 60 million seabirds. Returning to the ship seems surreal. The mudroom, where we strip off Aurora-supplied boots and polar jackets, is its portal between wilderness and the ship's comfort. A quick treatment for chilled bones in the sauna and pre-dinner cocktails are followed by pappardelle alla norma and an Argentine malbec. On our final morning in South Georgia, we're out in Zodiacs at Right Whale Bay. Peaks stab the background and waterfalls gush into a churning sea. The beaches are strewn with so many fur seals that we can't find spare sand on which to land. Bull seals agitated by the mating season grunt and huff. The water around the Zodiac plops with penguins, yellow beaks and throats flashing as they surface for air. They're as soon underwater again, sleek as synchronised swimmers. Once more, South Georgia provides a constant state of wildlife overstimulation. By late morning the wind has whipped up to 70 knots, forcing us to abandon our final excursion. South Georgian weather is capricious. 'You'll have some blue-sky days and bad days and some filthy days but get up and out anyway, because you'll always see things that are unique,' Mortimer advised us at the start of our journey. Loading Indeed. Now the snow is falling, or rather stabbing horizontally across the slush-slippery deck. But no matter. I huddle by the railing, peering through frozen eyelashes at my last glimpse of South Georgia, which disappears into the fog like a magical kingdom, leaving only albatross wandering in a milky sky. The details Cruise Aurora Expeditions visits South Georgia on several different itineraries that also take in the Antarctic Peninsula and Falkland Islands. For example, a 23-day Antarctica Complete journey, which next departs on December 20, 2025 and December 17, 2026, costs from $US29,756 a person ($46,640) including all shore excursions and Zodiac expedition. See
The Age
01-08-2025
- The Age
One of the world's most isolated places is the ultimate cruise destination
It isn't just wildlife numbers that have an impact on visitors to South Georgia. You get closer to animals here than almost anywhere else in the world. Close enough to admire the sheen on penguins' feathers, to be alarmed by the fierce beaks of giant petrels, and to look into seals' watery black eyes. South Georgia beats the Arctic and Svalbard, where you're lucky to see only a few walrus or polar bears at a distance. It's even harder to get to, however. The British Overseas Territory is 1300 kilometres from the nearest permanent habitation in the Falkland Islands, and 2000 kilometres east of the South American mainland. South Georgia has no airport. Unless you join the British Antarctic Survey, the only way to get here is on an expedition cruise in summer. I'm here with Aurora Expeditions, a top choice for this remote and rugged destination. The inverted bow of Greg Mortimer provides increased stability in rough waters, and abundant decks a grandstand onto icebergs and drifting seabirds if you can stand the cold. Two well-placed hot tubs are terrific if you can't. Wind and waves set the agenda in this volatile environment, so you need an experienced company and expedition team that knows the best places to sail and land. I'm lucky to have Aurora's founder Greg Mortimer himself on board. The legendary adventurer – the first Australian (with Tim Macartney-Snape) to climb Mount Everest and various other big peaks, including Antarctica's highest – has led more than 80 expeditions to Antarctica. Every excursion brings something different. Hercules Bay has macaroni penguins with jaunty yellow head feathers, and a laziness of elephant seals as big as boulders. Fortuna Bay is encrusted with glaciers and bands of buckled rock, and jammed with fur seals and their newly born pups. The sun is bright on a silvery sea as we sail into Stromness Bay, illuminating alpine peaks. The ship's Observation Lounge, with coffee in hand, is my box onto the grand opera of scenery. By the time we anchor, clouds are low and the wind furious. What looked beautiful now seems desolate and grey, but going ashore is just as wonderful. By far the biggest pleasure of expedition cruising is the chance to tap into expert knowledge, and I soon find myself fascinated by lichen, cloud patterns and the penguin life cycle. Twice-daily talks by the expedition team add informative and entertaining detail to South Georgia's natural history. One afternoon, we land at St Andrew's Bay. Dozens of elephant seals are slumped on the beach. Fur seals are everywhere. The king penguin rookery is the biggest in South Georgia, with perhaps well over half a million animals. When I see Linda, I have to admit that my amazement at the wildlife all those days ago was indeed premature. The numbers are difficult to fathom. The island is home to most of the world's Antarctic fur seals and half its elephant seals, plus some 60 million seabirds. Returning to the ship seems surreal. The mudroom, where we strip off Aurora-supplied boots and polar jackets, is its portal between wilderness and the ship's comfort. A quick treatment for chilled bones in the sauna and pre-dinner cocktails are followed by pappardelle alla norma and an Argentine malbec. On our final morning in South Georgia, we're out in Zodiacs at Right Whale Bay. Peaks stab the background and waterfalls gush into a churning sea. The beaches are strewn with so many fur seals that we can't find spare sand on which to land. Bull seals agitated by the mating season grunt and huff. The water around the Zodiac plops with penguins, yellow beaks and throats flashing as they surface for air. They're as soon underwater again, sleek as synchronised swimmers. Once more, South Georgia provides a constant state of wildlife overstimulation. By late morning the wind has whipped up to 70 knots, forcing us to abandon our final excursion. South Georgian weather is capricious. 'You'll have some blue-sky days and bad days and some filthy days but get up and out anyway, because you'll always see things that are unique,' Mortimer advised us at the start of our journey. Loading Indeed. Now the snow is falling, or rather stabbing horizontally across the slush-slippery deck. But no matter. I huddle by the railing, peering through frozen eyelashes at my last glimpse of South Georgia, which disappears into the fog like a magical kingdom, leaving only albatross wandering in a milky sky. The details Cruise Aurora Expeditions visits South Georgia on several different itineraries that also take in the Antarctic Peninsula and Falkland Islands. For example, a 23-day Antarctica Complete journey, which next departs on December 20, 2025 and December 17, 2026, costs from $US29,756 a person ($46,640) including all shore excursions and Zodiac expedition. See
Sydney Morning Herald
18-07-2025
- Sydney Morning Herald
One of the most splendid sights in nature is also one of the stinkiest
This article is part of Traveller's Holiday Guide to ocean cruising. See all stories. Getting up close and personal to vast colonies of penguins in Antarctica is a stupendous experience on many levels – not least when it comes to the incredible stink. The first penguins we see are no more than tiny black dots on a passing iceberg somewhere off the coast of the South Shetland Islands, as our expedition ship, Greg Mortimer, lurches across the Drake Passage from Ushuaia on the tip of South America towards the Antarctic Peninsula. My fellow passengers and I stir with excitement as we squint through binoculars, but how naive we are. Before we're done, we'll see a million penguins – no exaggeration – and many close enough to admire their shimmering throat feathers and black, wrinkled feet. Guidelines say we should keep our distance, especially as the arrival of avian flu in Antarctica is a major concern, but that turns out to be tricky with so many of these naturally curious creatures on every side. While some penguins waddle off like affronted nuns when we appear, the majority shuffle towards us, fixing us with beady eyes, apparently as fascinated by us as we are by them. This exploration of the Antarctic Peninsula and South Georgia with Aurora Expeditions produces one wonder after another – mountain ranges, glaciers, giant icebergs, glossy seals, albatross swooping like giant Chinese kites – but penguins are my lasting memory. I expected penguins, of course, but not like this. Not huddled in entire battalions as far as the eye can see. Not in colonies 200,000 strong. And not assaulting all the senses with their noise, iridescent plumage, peculiar behaviour and smell. Penguins have no consideration for pooping in the proper place. Nobody tells you that penguins have not happy feet, but stinky feet. I smell their colonies before the ship has even anchored. As we approach landing sites on Zodiacs, the ammonia in the air makes my eyes water.
The Age
18-07-2025
- The Age
One of the most splendid sights in nature is also one of the stinkiest
This article is part of Traveller's Holiday Guide to ocean cruising. See all stories. Getting up close and personal to vast colonies of penguins in Antarctica is a stupendous experience on many levels – not least when it comes to the incredible stink. The first penguins we see are no more than tiny black dots on a passing iceberg somewhere off the coast of the South Shetland Islands, as our expedition ship, Greg Mortimer, lurches across the Drake Passage from Ushuaia on the tip of South America towards the Antarctic Peninsula. My fellow passengers and I stir with excitement as we squint through binoculars, but how naive we are. Before we're done, we'll see a million penguins – no exaggeration – and many close enough to admire their shimmering throat feathers and black, wrinkled feet. Guidelines say we should keep our distance, especially as the arrival of avian flu in Antarctica is a major concern, but that turns out to be tricky with so many of these naturally curious creatures on every side. While some penguins waddle off like affronted nuns when we appear, the majority shuffle towards us, fixing us with beady eyes, apparently as fascinated by us as we are by them. This exploration of the Antarctic Peninsula and South Georgia with Aurora Expeditions produces one wonder after another – mountain ranges, glaciers, giant icebergs, glossy seals, albatross swooping like giant Chinese kites – but penguins are my lasting memory. I expected penguins, of course, but not like this. Not huddled in entire battalions as far as the eye can see. Not in colonies 200,000 strong. And not assaulting all the senses with their noise, iridescent plumage, peculiar behaviour and smell. Penguins have no consideration for pooping in the proper place. Nobody tells you that penguins have not happy feet, but stinky feet. I smell their colonies before the ship has even anchored. As we approach landing sites on Zodiacs, the ammonia in the air makes my eyes water.
The Age
06-06-2025
- The Age
Not quite luxe but this expedition ship is the real deal
For a ship that carries 130 passengers, Greg Mortimer beats some larger expedition opposition in its generous public areas, which include a large lecture lounge with a help-yourself coffee station, and adjacent Elephant Island bar and lounge, popular for pre-dinner cocktails. The forward-facing observation lounge on Deck 8 has a small bar and large deck from which to view wildlife and scenery. Another expansive deck faces aft on Deck 7, which might normally be filled with Zodiacs on expedition ships. I particularly like the snug library on the port side, crammed with polar reference and history books, and with windows often framing views of mountains or icebergs. The ship also has a reception desk, small shop and, in its bowels, a mudroom for storing boots and poplar jackets (both supplied by Aurora Expeditions) and with access onto Zodiacs for excursions. The stateroom I'm in a balcony stateroom, each of which varies slightly in size. Mine is 20.9 square metres plus balcony. It's a generous and well-considered space with enough room for a desk and two small armchairs, and ample storage space for the contents of two suitcases. A large TV, a minibar and abundant electric and USB sockets are among amenities. The room is well insulated: I can't hear my jet-lagged neighbours, who worry I might be disturbed by their TV late at night. The ensuite is a decent size but is lacking a cabinet or much counter-top space. Yet it has what you really need in polar conditions: underfloor heating, and a generous shower space with gushing hot water. The food Dining times are short, and service swift but attentive. Seating is open. There's only one restaurant, with breakfast and lunch served buffet-style and providing a good range of hot and cold dishes. At lunchtime I'm very happy with the salad bar, cold cuts and cheeses, an always excellent soup, and various hot dishes and desserts that change daily. The galley delivers consistently good, home-cooking-style cuisine, rather than the fancy or adventurous. The menu is Europe-inspired but among the choices is always an Indian (and sometimes other Asian) dish to enliven the palate. Wine is included at dinner. A small section of the dining room is set aside in the evenings as a speciality, inclusive Tuscan grill restaurant. It has a limited and unchanging menu but the two pasta dishes (pappardelle alla norma and oxtail ragout) are excellent, as are various vegetable side dishes. Wellness The ship has a small spa, a good-sized gym with an impressive range of equipment, and two hot tubs on Deck 7 at the front of the ship that make for fabulous wallowing as glaciers and icebergs pass by. Also popular is the sauna, where chilled bones can be warmed, especially following the notorious 'polar plunge' or rite-of-passage dip into the icy Antarctic Ocean. Entertainment Nobody is on this ship for singers or piano players. Greg Mortimer is focused on maximising the expedition experience, so 'entertainment' is confined to informative lectures by highly experienced expedition staff, many of whom are scientists specialising in geology, ecology, Antarctic history or niche subjects from whales to penguins. Guests make Zodiac excursions twice daily (conditions permitting) and may opt for additional adventure activities such as kayaking, snowshoeing, mountain climbing, ice camping and scuba-diving or snorkelling (yes, even in polar regions). Greg Mortimer has a huge advantage in Antarctica, where regulations restrict landings to 100 people at a time. With some guests out kayaking or doing sporting activities elsewhere, guests can maximise their time ashore without any need, as on larger ships, to rotate. The crew The quality of any expedition hinges on the experience, knowledge and good sense of the expedition team, where Aurora excels. Greg Mortimer himself leads the team on my voyage but all its members are impressive, whether in the lecture lounge or out in the Zodiacs. On shore they patiently answer questions about everything from sea-ice formation to the sex life of penguins. The regular ships' crew are mostly from the Philippines, with all the usual charm and friendliness you expect from that nation's hard-working cruise staff. They soon remember guests' names and dining preferences. A shout-out in particular to the irrepressible Pel and the always-singing Wendy in the restaurant, who manage attentive service while always appearing relaxed. The verdict Aurora Expeditions isn't a fancy cruise company with an expedition-lite arm but the real deal, offering a thrilling and rugged sense of adventure in the remotest places – and yet not sacrificing comfort to do so. The details A 23-day Falklands, South Georgia and Antarctic Peninsula itinerary round-trip from Ushuaia departing December 27, 2025, is priced from $US28,215 a guest all-inclusive, except for some adventure activities. Greg Mortimer has two staterooms with disabled access. See The rating out of five
