2 days ago
Singapore Fried Hokkien Mee: Michelin Bib Hokkien mee that promises more than it delivers
Woah, they named our country after a Hokkien mee stall?
I'm kidding, of course — but that was the first goofy thought that floated into my brain when I chanced upon Singapore Fried Hokkien Mee on social media. My curiosity was piqued. With a name this audaciously on-the-nose, it would be primed to pop up first for anyone Googling 'Singaporean fried Hokkien mee' at all.
I wondered: could this be the Hokkien mee stall to represent all Singaporean Hokkien mee stalls? With a coveted Michelin Bib Gourmand to boot, it could very well be. And so off I went, on a quest to Whampoa Makan Place to find out once and for all.
Stoked as I was, there was a catch. 'Disappointed', 'bland', 'standard drop'… the stall's recent slate of Google reviews didn't quite see eye to eye with its shiny accolades. Gulp.
Still, I wasn't about to turn my back on the mission. After all, the steady queue that greeted me — even during my odd-hour arrival for an early dinner — seemed to send a reassuring nod.
I found myself rather amused by the ordering system. Not because it was peculiar or anything, but because the auntie taking orders hollered at the queue from atop a two-step perch. The line moved quickly as she royally addressed each patron, and it was my turn in no time.
The one-dish wonder offers its Fried Hokkien at 6 price points: S$5, S$6, S$8, S$10, S$12 and S$15. I went with the sensible S$8 portion, and was presented with a decently sized plate of gravy-clad yellow noodles and thick bee hoon studded with taugeh, prawns, squid and a smattering of eggs. Textbook.
Something felt missing, though I couldn't quite put my finger on it at first. And then it hit me: where was the fried pork lard? As it turns out, these golden-brown nuggets are only dished out upon request. Oops, my bad.
While the pessimistic reviews had braced me for the worst, I still clung to the hope that this plate of Hokkien mee would blow my expectations out of the water. Unfortunately, my first bite left much to be desired.
The noodles, though decent, didn't exactly scream Michelin Bib. The balance between sweet and savoury was off, and the prawn stock's characteristic brininess was frustratingly faint. Most disappointingly, the absence of wok hei (a non-negotiable, if you ask me) stuck out like a sore thumb.
On the bright side, I do appreciate a good moist Hokkien mee — and I'll give credit where it's due. The stall had the pleasing creaminess of its broth nailed.
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The plate was curiously embellished with not just 1 but 3 types of chilli: red, green and the stall's house blend, and the ardent spice lover in me was excited to see how this trio might liven up the dish. If I could sum it up: not as potent as you'd think — perfect for those who can't handle heat.
Although I was, once again, hardly wowed, my favourite of the lot was the house blend. Laced with hints of hae bee, this chilli mix added a bright — albeit subtle — umami lift to the dish. That said, they could definitely afford to be more generous with this one.
Contrary to the dismal portions some reviews lamented, I was actually pretty satisfied with the serving of 3 plump, crunchy prawns and, trust me, a lot of fresh, chewy squid pieces. Seafood is seldom ever the main draw for me when it comes to Hokkien mee, but I did enjoy the pops of textural contrast these lent the soft, gravy-slicked noodles.
Ravenous, I slurped up the plate with ease and landed on this verdict: not terrible, just… largely unimpressive.
Let's set the record straight. I'm no Hokkien mee expert, but I'm sure I know enough to tell the excellent from the merely okay.
In all fairness, Singapore Fried Hokkien Mee's rendition was far from inedible; I'd even say it edges out your run-of-the-mill kopitiam plate. But decent as it was, it struck me as sorely lacklustre for something that's earned Michelin recognition. So no, I wouldn't go as far as to crown it Singapore's rep. I've had better — and chances are, you have too.
Expected damage: S$5 – S$15 per pax
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