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The National
2 days ago
- Business
- The National
How Thailand has reinvented itself in 20 years, as popularity surges among tourists
I have travelled to Thailand several times since the early noughties – with family as a teenager in 2004-05, solo in my mid-20s and again with a partner a couple of years ago. Returning in May, I noticed how much the country has evolved. Its newfound sense of confidence almost mirrors the changes in my own life. And while the familiar sights are still there, the Southeast Asian country is presenting itself in fascinating new ways – and the world is watching. It is little surprise that Bangkok was the most visited city in 2024, according to the World Tourism Forum Institute, a reflection of the country's surging global appeal. While the capital was once synonymous with temples, street food and chaotic charm, today it is also a hub for contemporary art, luxury shopping and an increasingly refined dining scene. On my first trip to Bangkok, I remember visiting the Wat Pho temple complex, home to the city's famous giant reclining Buddha. My sisters and I posed for a photo alongside the gold-plated statue, making for a memorable keepsake. Years later, I returned with my partner, drawn to the city's lively night markets where we discovered unconventional street food and practised our bargaining skills. Although the experiences were vastly different, both offered a glimpse into Bangkok's vibrant personality. This is a city that is constantly shifting yet always compelling. Multilevel malls such as IconSiam and Siam Paragon now house everything from global luxury brands to Thai designer labels, while sky-high rooftop lounges offer a more luxurious feel. Restaurants such as R-Haan, Baan Tepa and Suhring, all with two Michelin stars, have helped solidify Bangkok's place on the global culinary map. One Bangkok is another example of this modern shift. I recently stayed at The Ritz-Carlton, Bangkok, one of the most impressive properties in this district. Spread across several city blocks, the mixed-use development has sleek skyscrapers, five-star hotels, restaurants, shops and landscaped green spaces. Throughout the area, a growing public art collection features works by both renowned Thai and international artists. Sculptures, digital installations, murals and even functional pieces like benches are built into the surroundings, encouraging people to pause, peruse and engage. It's a sign of how the capital is embracing the arts. The Dib Bangkok museum, which claims to be 'Thailand's first museum dedicated to international contemporary art,' is scheduled to open in December, proving the city's art scene shows no signs of slowing down. Those seeking a slower pace while on holiday, meanwhile, can look to Thailand's second-largest island Koh Samui, which is an hour's flight from Bangkok. Its tranquil beaches, lush hills and laid-back vibe offer a striking contrast to the capital's high energy. Recently, the island drew international attention as the filming location for the third season of the HBO show The White Lotus, and interest has continued to surge. Despite the buzz, Koh Samui also has quieter pockets brimming with charm. I stayed at the five-star property Vana Belle, a Luxury Collection Resort, Koh Samui, which is tucked away along the serene Chaweng Noi Beach. Live music performances, traditional fire shows and a private beach offer a strong sense of place with little need to leave the property. For those looking to explore beyond the resort, Central Samui in Chaweng is a short drive away. As the island's main shopping mall, it offers an air-conditioned break from the heat, plus international brands, cute cafes and souvenir shops. It's a different vibe from the bustling street markets of Bangkok, but it reflects Koh Samui's growing accessibility. For visitors craving a bit of city comfort without losing the island vibe, it strikes a good balance. Meanwhile, the nearby Bophut area comes alive in the evenings. While its traditional fishing village charm has largely faded in the face of more tourist-centric development, it still offers glimpses of Samui's heritage, while also showing the flipside of overtourism. It might be worth engaging the services of a local tour guide to get a more authentic feel for the area's history and heritage. Given the country's ever-changing landscape, Thailand continues to offer something new with each visit. It grows and shifts, shaped by tourism demand, modernisation and its own creative momentum. No matter how many times I return, the experience feels familiar yet somehow also new.
The Guardian
02-05-2025
- The Guardian
A night or two to chill: why the flexiscape travel trend is a perfect fit for Southeast Asia
So, you've bashed through jungles, swum at countless beaches, partied like there's no tomorrow and trekked to remote temples. Spectacular sights, tropical sounds, delicious local food and incredible stories are forever etched into your memory. Travelling through Southeast Asia has produced sensory overload and now it's time to let that whole experience sink in as you unwind somewhere luxe. A place with beautiful surroundings and creature comforts, where your every need is catered to, and where everything from having dinner to booking a massage is easy and stress-free. Welcome to the world of flexiscapes, a trend that sees travellers start their trips with action and adventure and end with rest, relaxation and a well-deserved splurge. Because when you've flown all that way, why settle for just one kind of holiday? Travellers might stay at simple accommodations to start, preferring to spend their money on activities and experiences, before splashing out on a luxe hotel to end. Such low-high itineraries give travellers the best of both worlds – discovery and indulgence. And few countries suit flexiscapes better than Thailand. When staying in budget accommodation, you're unlikely to hang around in your room. When shelling out for a smart hotel, however, you'll want to enjoy all it offers to the fullest. Millennium Hilton Bangkok makes this easy. Rising 32 storeys above the western bank of the bustling Chao Phraya River, the landmark hotel is a tranquil retreat close to attractions such Wat Pho – the 'reclining buddha' temple – and Wat Arun, famed for its spires, as well as some of the best shopping malls in Bangkok, including IconSiam. But with so much to offer on-site, it's possible to spend 48 hours without leaving the property until you check out. Here's how. 3pmCheck in to the Millennium Hilton Bangkok. Its spacious, contemporary rooms feature Hilton's slumber-inducing Serenity beds, a sofa and a bathroom with bathtub and walk-in shower. Most have panoramic views of the river or city skyline. 3.30pmAfter weeks of activities and touring, it's time for pampering at the hotel's eforea Spa, a sanctuary of wellness set across two levels. Warm up muscles and joints in the sauna before indulging in a massage, facial or body treatment, or even all three. Recommended is the signature Thai herbal compress treatment that uses a heated poultice filled with therapeutic herbs and spices to relieve tension and pain. Gently return to reality in the relaxation lounge where lemongrass tea and a soothing lemongrass-scented shoulder compress complete the session. 5.30pmHead to the top of the hotel for alfresco sundowners at the renowned ThreeSixty Rooftop bar. The venue has a circular indoor space that gives the bar its name but, for now, head to the outdoor terrace for champagne, wine or classic cocktails such as mai tais, mojitos and negronis high above the city's hustle and bustle. 7pmBangkok's skyline looks stunning when lit up at night, and OXBO Bangkok, with its wall of glass windows, is the place to view it. The newly launched bar and grill is also a great spot to savour premium locally and internationally sourced produce cooked simply over an open fire. Think grilled river prawns with toasted spices and a coconut milk sauce, or beautifully charred rib eye or tenderloin beef served with farm-fresh corn, asparagus and heirloom carrots. 9.30pmEnd the evening with an ice-cold craft beer or tropical cocktail at Ale House. This riverside watering hole features indoor and outdoor tables, and a giant LED screen that shows live sporting matches. Expect an exuberant crowd when popular sports such as football or tennis are on. 7.30amMake a healthy start to the day at the recently renovated fitness centre, featuring state-of-the-art Technogym equipment. Everything needed for a full workout is here, including assisted and free weights, running, cycling and climbing machines, aerobic and cardio equipment, and more. Alternatively, check the schedule for yoga or meditation classes. 9amBreakfast at riverside Flow is a highlight of any stay at Millennium Hilton Bangkok. This all-day restaurant has five display kitchens serving a delicious feast of Thai, Chinese, Indian, European and other international cuisines. Options range from Thai omelettes stuffed with minced pork to eggs benedict, pancakes and smoothie bowls. If it's Sunday, consider the weekend brunch featuring premium sushi, sashimi, wagyu beef and fresh seafood. 11amTop up the vitamin D levels at the 20-metre infinity pool. Described as an 'island paradise', the sprawling pool deck has a choice of sun-drenched or undercover loungers, with some of the most coveted spots on the shallow-water terrace that has sweeping views up and down the Chao Phraya River. Poolside, the Beach serves simple, comforting bites such as burgers, pizza, salad and local dishes. 2pmBefore heading out, stop for light bites at the stylish lobby cafe the Lantern, with its soaring ceilings and oversized windows overlooking a wall of greenery. It's popular in the afternoon, as patrons sip on hot chocolate, blended teas and speciality coffee accompanied by a tempting array of sweet and savoury treats. 3pm Next to the hotel is IconSiam, a massive destination shopping mall and the place for last-minute souvenirs and gifts. A heap of international luxury fashion stores can be found here but don't miss the colour and buzz of SookSiam on the ground floor. This staggering marketplace houses more than 3,000 vendors showcasing and selling handicrafts, arts and food from provinces across Thailand. 7pmReturn to Flow for dinner, when night sees the restaurant transform into a vibrant culinary haven with lively display kitchens in action. Savour delectable dishes from across the country, including khao soi curry noodles from the north, spicy red curry with grouper from the south, and the flavours of central Thailand in a massaman beef cheek curry. Pasta, pizza, soup, steak and salad are also available for those who can't stand the heat. 9pmSettle in for classic and innovative cocktails, live jazz and spectacular 360-degree views back at the ThreeSixty Jazz Lounge. A roster of jazz musicians and singers perform six nights a week to ensure a mellow mood, enhanced by a backdrop of twinkling city lights stretching as far as the eye can see. 9.30am Take it easy on the final morning, order room service and indulge in a lazy breakfast in bed. Even from here, guests can still enjoy some of the best views of Bangkok from any hotel. 12pmRested, revitalised and ready to check out, it's time to say goodbye to the land of smiles as you set off for the international airport – just 40 minutes' drive from the hotel. Discover Southeast Asia and the Millennium Hilton Bangkok
