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Times
6 days ago
- Lifestyle
- Times
Scandinavia's artiest city now has a fascinating new museum
In February a rainbow appeared above the streets of Trondheim and it has stayed there ever since, come rain or shine. It's an artwork by the Swiss artist Ugo Rondinone that spells out the words 'our magic hour' and it acts as a rather cheery beacon for the new PoMo museum that sits beneath it. In the past few years Norway has been busily opening new museums. Oslo unveiled a hulking architectural stack on the harbour front dedicated to the Norwegian artist Edvard Munch in 2021, with the grandstanding National Museum, which includes a room devoted to the first version of Munch's The Scream, following a year later. Last year a private collection of Nordic modern art was given a dramatic home in the form of the tubular Kunstsilo, a former 1930s grain silo in the southern town of Kristiansand. PoMo, though, feels altogether more personable (£13; In Trondheim's much-loved former main post office — the name comes from Posten Moderne, or modern post office — it's the first museum crafted by the French-Iranian architect and interior designer India Mahdavi, who worked alongside the Norwegian architect Erik Langdalen. Step inside the pistachio-green art nouveau building, built in 1911, and you're met with a luminous white colonnaded space in which giant worm-like sculptures bend and contort, while a cluster of green balloons floating by the skylight resemble plant cells. A gallery shop to one side glows salmon pink, the items on its shelves carefully colour-coordinated; another bright statement is provided by a tangerine spiral staircase that unfurls between the floors. I pass through rooms of Irving Penn still lifes, Catherine Opie nudes and Andy Warhol's Mao, and another that shows contemporary works alongside Piranesi prints and a golden, Afro-haired sphinx by the Brooklyn-based artist Simone Leigh. It's a little random at times but that's often the nature of a private collection: much of the art here was purchased over many years by the museum's founders, Monica and Ole Robert Reitan. There is, of course, work by Munch: a series of bright lithographs set against dark blue walls. And the title of the first of its temporary shows (the museum will stage two each year), Postcards from the Future (running until June 22), nods to the building's history. The exhibition gathers personal perspectives from artists including Louise Bourgeois (via the dangling male figure of Arch of Hysteria) and Katharina Fritsch (via a series of pop arty single-colour holiday images). An 'in between' corridor, soundproofed in black fabric, is intended as a contemplative space. Here I sit on a bench and ponder an inflatable artwork bouncing in the breeze outside, created by the Kuwaiti artist Monira Al Qadiri, who was inspired by a petrochemical molecule. One of PoMo's aims is to help to reset the gender balance by devoting a minimum of 60 per cent of its acquisitions budget to female artists. Right at the top is the cosiest spot in the building. Set amid the eaves, the library is a wood-lined space that resembles a forest cabin or treehouse, its A-frame ceiling covered in a gorgeous patina of wood-blocky prints in pastel pink and green — salmon and squid, seeds and oak leaves. It's a place in which to hole up with an art book and take in the view over the city. 'I was inspired by the folk art I'd seen around Trondheim, which I hadn't been expecting when I first visited,' Mahdavi tells me. 'You tend to think of Scandinavia in terms of its minimal design but there's a lot of craft here.' The architect describes colours as her friends, creating positive vibrations, and says she drew on the palette she saw while walking the streets here: the pinks of salmon and painted doors, the orange of its historical warehouses. 'I was surprised by all the barn reds and mustardy tones,' she says. 'Colour blocks are a real part of the heritage. And the crisp light you get here is just incredible.' • 11 of Europe's best cities for art lovers Despite being Norway's third-largest city, Trondheim is a small town in comparison with many British cities. With Mahdavi's words in mind, I walk around and spot a kaleidoscope of higgledy wood-timbered houses. Crossing the Gamle Bybro bridge into the cobblestoned Bakklandet district takes me over the River Nidelva, the water reflecting the sweet-shop colours of the 18th-century wharves, which now contain cafés and independent shops. At the bottom of a steep hill is the world's only bike lift, a funicular-like track invented in the 1990s, and an unusual concrete sculpture of a huge vintage radio with a man peeking out. The radio is a memorial to Otto Nielsen, an intriguing figure whose career took him from cabaret artist to radio presenter and resistance fighter. Europe's northernmost medieval cathedral, which happens to also be one of its most beautiful, glows soft green from the soapstone it was carved from, its copper steeple etching the sky. Inside are pink granite tiles and a stained-glass rose window that casts an ethereal light over the soaring contours of the vaulted roof. A continuing restoration project, it was built over the tomb of St Olaf, the Viking king (much of 11th-century Trondheim was funded by pillaging forays to England) who converted Norway to Christianity. Latter-day pilgrims can pick up a little wooden effigy of his head for about £35. PoMo isn't the only show in town. It forms part of Trondheim's art quarter, alongside the artist-led KUK gallery (free; and the more traditional Trondheim Kunstmuseum (£12; The latter is not to be confused with Kunsthall Trondheim, which opened in 2016 in a former fire station with a mission to show contemporary artists from around the world. During my visit, the Canadian Turner prize nominee Sin Wai Kin was featured with a witty, time-bending multimedia satire (free; All the galleries are part of the Hannah Ryggen Triennale, named after the radical artist who started weaving anti-fascist tapestries in the 1940s. While Trondheim has carved out a reputation for its contemporary art, it's not the only reason to come here. There are harbourside saunas, including one in a wartime bunker, and a strong music tradition. You can drop by for a craft ale at Bar Moskus, where the owner spins records and local bands take to the tiny stage (drinks from £7; or head to the Rockheim museum, with its section on Norwegian dark metal and a cantilevered roof that changes colour at night (£12; • Read our full guide to Norway And the city's food scene is just as creative as its art one. The renowned local chef Heidi Bjerkan recently closed her Michelin-starred restaurant Credo to concentrate on a new project in Oslo but others are forging ahead. I stop by for a glass of natural wine at Fagn, whose menu includes a beef tartare sandwich and woodruff ice cream (three courses from £45; I also pull up a seat at the chef's table at Speilsalen, a fine-dining restaurant set in the former ballroom at the Britannia Hotel, Trondheim's grandest place to stay, for a champagne lunch of king crab and fennel, and mountain char and gooseberry (from £102). On the other side of PoMo, the Nye Hjorten theatre has just been renovated and has a suitably theatrical bistro, Olga's, serving oysters and lobster rolls (mains from £17; 'Over the years Trondheim has been referred to as the capital of technology and a football city,' says Wil Lee-Wright, who moved here from the UK in 2010 with his Norwegian wife, Ida, and now helps to run Tollbua restaurant. Its chef, Christopher Davidsen, has since won a Bocuse award for dishes such as pollock with verbena and fermented lemon (set menus from £58; 'But I think its art and culinary identity are the most credible.' I make a note to return in August for the Trondersk Food Festival, which showcases the region's incredible seafood and cooking skills. • 10 of the best places to visit in Norway On my final day I take the vintage Grakallbanen tram that trundles up to the hills around Lianvatnet Lake, where locals swim in the summer and snowshoe and ice fish in the winter. Looking down at the colours of Trondheim below me it feels like a pretty magic hour — not just for me but for the whole Jordan was a guest of the Britannia Hotel, which has B&B doubles from £200 ( and PoMo, which has tickets from £13 ( Fly to Trondheim
Tatler Asia
08-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Tatler Asia
Mother's Day 2025: 7 well-designed gifts to honour the most important women in your life
2. cc-tapis Rebus rugs by India Mahdavi Above cc-tapis Rebus rug by Iranian-French architect and designer India Mahdavi (Photo: Instagram / @cc_tapis) Above Each rug is both artwork and object balancing abstraction and symbolism (Photo: Instagram / @cc_tapis) Bring some colour into her home with these Rebus hand-knotted rugs by cc-tapis, in collaboration with acclaimed Iranian-French architect and designer India Mahdavi. Bridging the realms of fine art and interior design, and forming a visual language that is both cryptic and playful, Mahdavi crafts a design puzzle that balances abstraction and symbolism. Don't miss: Architecture for Dogs: Innovative spaces reimagined for canine companions Above Fade effect achieved through alternation of wool threads in varied saturations (Photo: Instagram / @cc_tapis) Above Saturated colours and bold, unexpected forms offer fresh insight with every glance (Photo: Instagram / @cc_tapis) Each rug functions as both artwork and object, with translated words, phrases and ideas converging through saturated colours and bold, unexpected forms–a figurative language that invites interpretation, offering fresh insight with every glance. Produced in the cc-tapis atelier in Nepal, the Rebus collection showcases exceptional craftsmanship. Its distinctive fade effect, achieved through careful alternation of wool threads in varied saturations–resulting in a palette that is both subtle and striking. Read more: Home tour: A nature-inspired lakefront retreat in Canada blends quiet luxury with seasonal beauty 3. Lego Art Vincent Van Gogh–Sunflowers wall art set Above The Lego wall art set captures the brilliance of Van Gogh's painting in 1889 Arles (Photo: Lego) What better flowers to get your mum than those that last forever? And which blossoms speak better of permanence than Vincent Van Gogh's iconic Sunflowers ? Created in collaboration with the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam–which holds the world's largest Van Gogh collection, including the original Sunflowers painting–this three-dimensional buildable interpretation by Lego captures the brilliance of the work the artist painted in Arles in 1889. See also: 10 most expensive Lego Star Wars sets to bring home on Star Wars Day Photo 1 of 3 Van Gogh's iconic use of light, shade and layered yellow hues come to life (Photo: Lego) Photo 2 of 3 16 sunflowers with adjustable petals (Photo: Lego) Photo 3 of 3 A printed tile bearing Van Gogh's signature (Photo: Lego) Featuring 16 sunflowers with adjustable petals, a removable frame, a printed tile bearing Van Gogh's signature, and a hanger element for elegant wall display–see how Van Gogh's iconic use of light, shade and layered yellow hues come to life as you spend quality time with mum in constructing the 2,615-piece composition. Don't miss: Lego Art meets Van Gogh: Inside the revolutionary 'Sunflowers' design 4. Pern Baan OTS Chair by Office of Tangible Space Above A reinterpretation that blends sculptural form with artisanal process (Photo: Pern Baan) Above Bridging high-precision metalwork with traditional craftsmanship in Thailand (Photo: Pern Baan) The OTS Chair by Pern Baan–a Thai-American furniture brand founded by Robert Sukrachand–and New York–based studio Office of Tangible Space is a bold reinterpretation of the classic dining chair that blends sculptural form with artisanal process. Crafted in Thailand, a country whose design culture bridges high-precision metalwork with traditional handcraft, the chair features a powder-coated steel frame in graphic green or soft cream, and paired with a handwoven cotton cord seat and an open base that maintains a visually lightweight yet grounded presence. Read more: 7 iconic cantilever chairs that shaped modern furniture 5. Sage Living Starlight Ori side table Above Inspired by the geometric folding design of origami (Photo: Sage Living) Relive your shared childhood memories with mum with Sage Living's Starlight collection–a furniture series that draws inspiration from childhood memories of paper folding or origami. Designed by co-founders Keerthi Tummala and Ram Kabadi, the collection celebrates the magic of folded design, where clean lines and thoughtful construction evoke nostalgia–those moments when boats, cranes, and airplanes came to life through simple creases and folds. See also: Home tour: A luxurious multigenerational home near New Delhi showcasing homegrown materials Capturing the essence of origami through masterful integration of traditional Indian craftsmanship, the Ori side table features honey onyx and silver pyrite stone pieced together with Pietra Dura inlay techniques–the slicing and cutting of materials into different shape sections, before assembling back together seamlessly. Set atop highly reflective chrome legs, the geometric forms and clean lines reflect paper folding's elegant simplicity, creating a captivating illusion that is both visually intriguing and practical in functionality. Don't miss: Rikke Frost revolutionises Danish design at Carl Hansen & Søn 6. Pratesi Botanica bedding collection Above Pratesi captures the romance of the Italian countryside in bloom (Photo: Instagram / @ Above The Tre Righe hand-embroidery set against Egyptian cotton percale (Photo: Instagram / @ Designed to elevate every moment of rest for your mum, the Botanica collection by Italian luxury linen and bedding brand Pratesi captures the romance of the Italian countryside in bloom–winding buds, florals and soft dappled light. Woven by artisans in Italy, the collection features a rich tapestry of flowers set against a base of Egyptian cotton percale, evoking the timeless charm of la dolce vita . The bedding caps off on a luxurious hand-embroidered note with Pratesi's celebrated three-line embroidery–the Tre Righe , and the brand's subtle emblem nestled among the vines. Read more: 5 interior designer tips for kid-friendly bedrooms that grow with your children 7. King Living Sleep+ Mattress and bed Above Every layer of the King Living Sleep+ Mattress is engineered for customisable support, enhance airflow and wick away moisture (Photo: King Living) Exceptional rest is important to all mothers, and whether your mum prefers firm support, cloud-like softness or something in between, the modular and customisable Sleep+ Mattress by King Living may be what is needed for a restful night of uninterrupted sleep. See also: 5 ways to create a luxurious bedroom that promotes uninterrupted sleep Each component can be interchanged, allowing you to configure your ideal sleep surface–such as the Comfort Layer with five different configurations to suit your preferred sleep position and firmness level, and the mesh-encased Spring Base with KingCell pocket coil springs that provide targeted support and pressure relief. Besides that, every layer of the Sleep+ Mattress is engineered to enhance airflow and wick away moisture–not to mention, removable to clean or vacuum–creating a cool, clean sleep environment within the zipped cover. Photo 1 of 4 The King Living Horizon Bed features a floating-style platform and a grand bedhead (Photo: King Living) Photo 2 of 4 The mounting points for the side wings and smart accessories are tastefully concealed (Photo: King Living) Photo 3 of 4 The Jasper Bed is another of King Living's range of beds that blends form and function (Photo: King Living) Photo 4 of 4 The King Living Jasper Bed comes with integrated lighting, shelves, under-bed storage and wireless charging (Photo: King Living) Furthermore, complete mum's new sleeping sanctuary with King Living's range of beds that blends form and function: Horizon Bed features a floating-style platform and a grand bedhead that conceals mounting points for side wings and smart accessories, whereas the Jasper Bed comes with integrated lighting, shelves, under-bed storage and wireless charging so everything is within reach. 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