Latest news with #Interrail
The Guardian
17-05-2025
- The Guardian
Interrail passes are free for kids – so I borrowed my niece for a rail tour of Europe's great cities
A year ago, I discovered a bit of a travel hack – that if accompanied by an adult (obviously) children under the age of 12 can explore Europe by train for absolutely zilch. Profoundly susceptible to any sort of bargain, even those that promise a net deficit in the long run, I determined to take advantage of Interrail's generous offer, despite lacking dependents of the specified vintage. The Guardian's journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more. Sourcing someone under 12 was far easier than I'd imagined. When I lodged an enquiry about my 10-year-old niece, asking if Annabelle might be available for an Interrailing stint at Easter, my brother couldn't sign her up fast enough. (Though he did insist on some caveats: in bed by 10pm, out of bed by 9am, and no watching sweary Gordon Ramsay shows). But where would we go? Well, after several discussions with my prospective companion over FaceTime (during which she utilised upwards of 100 filters, including one that made her look like Donald Trump), six locations were settled on: Paris, Zurich, Venice, Innsbruck, Berlin and Amsterdam. Annabelle cited Emily in Paris and The Diary of Anne Frank as inspirations, while confessing to a long-term interest in Toblerone. If the itinerary had been up to me, it would have looked a lot different. I'd just finished writing a book, you see, in which I travel to some of the least fashionable cities in Europe, but when I mentioned to Annabelle the likes of Essen and Minsk, she raised one of her eyebrows and held it there for 10 seconds (which is something she does when deeply unimpressed). So, first up, Paris. After checking in at The Hoxton hotel on Rue du Sentier, we quickly got stuck into some snails. (I won't quote Annabelle's verdict verbatim, but she likened them to a larger version of something you might find up your nose). A picnic near the Eiffel Tower – during which Annabelle stewed over my explanation as to why there was no point in us joining the massive queue to be elevated skywards ('Are you sure British people aren't allowed, Uncle Ben?') – was followed by a rapid ascent up 500 steps to the base of Sacré-Coeur basilica, Annabelle's alacrity owing to a white lie on my part (I'd said there was a doughnut shop at the top). Our journey to Zurich involved changing at Strasbourg. A seat reservation was required for the first leg at a cost of €10 each. (It's worth mentioning that Interrail pass-holders have to cough up for seat reservations on certain European train services, and all sleeper berths.) An honest breakdown of what we did during the four-hour run down the eastern flank of France to Switzerland reads as follows: 10 minutes considering the passing landscape, 80 minutes of screen time and roughly 19 games of hangman, in which I was able to smuggle a new pair of words into Annabelle's evolving vocabulary, namely 'exasperation' and 'glee'. We spent an hour exploring Zurich's efforts to become the most eco-friendly city possible (including a hydroelectric power station that got the one-eyebrow treatment from Annabelle), and another sitting by the lake near the fetching old town watching the swans and coots squabble over pretzel scraps. Then I gave Annabelle's palate the night off chocolate and took her to a plant‑based restaurant called Dar, run by the renowned Spanish-Moroccan chef Zineb 'Zizi' Hattab. We loved everything about the place, but the highlights were the Kentucky-fried mushrooms and the vegan ceviche. In Venice, I changed my approach to travelling with a miniature human. I stopped trying to have conversations every 10 paces about bridges and sea levels and the role of Garibaldi in the reunification of Italy, and instead handed Annabelle the reins, telling her to lead the way and get us lost. She succeeded with aplomb, getting us lost in just about every gift shop we saw (her appetite for tat is astonishing). We stayed at the Avani Rio Novo, a stylish establishment near the train station. This meant it scored points with Annabelle, whose legs suffer from a disabling condition known as selective fatigue, which tends to flare up on the way to museums and so on. After a dinner of sardines and gelato (don't ask), she spent the evening trying to teach me ballet moves, whereas I spent the evening thinking the sooner she starts drinking alcohol the better. The next morning, before we departed for pastures new, I asked Annabelle for an alternative verb to 'move on' or 'proceed' and she suggested 'wobble', and so it was that we bade Venice farewell and wobbled north to Innsbruck, a charming city of about 130,000-odd citizens surrounded by mountains. Having dumped our bags at Adlers Hotel and wolfed down a schnitzel at a restaurant called Stiftskeller, we took a 20-minute cable car ride up to the peak of Hafelekarspitze, a mountain topping 2,334 metres (7,657ft). We paid our dues to the vista – a pistachio river, a motley crop of rooftops, a ring of Austrian Alps – before commencing a protracted snowball fight that Annabelle would later put forward as the highlight of her trip, a comment that had me wondering if I should have just taken her to the Snozone in Milton Keynes. We travelled the next day to Berlin, reaching the German capital in time to catch the sunset from the 368-metre tall TV Tower in Alexanderplatz. As I attempted to explain the significance of the Brandenburg Gate and Checkpoint Charlie, Annabelle appeared to be taking on board the gravitas of these historical monuments, an impression that was punctured somewhat when she asked, at the end of my summary, 'Can you do this with your tongue?' We proceeded by tram to the KPM Hotel, in a former porcelain factory in the west of the city, which Annabelle gave 10 out of 10, mainly because there was a beanbag in her room. The next morning, a guided bike tour along the Berlin Wall provided an energising lesson on ideological warfare, Helmut Schmidt, David Hasselhoff and the various ways an East German might get over an obstacle. The tour was elevated by the incorporation of curry wurst and cherry trees, and by the good nature of our guide, Phillip. When he asked if Annabelle liked the sound of life in the German Democratic Republic, she quickly and firmly said 'sure', which I later discovered is her go-to response when she hasn't been listening. The next day, we reached Amsterdam Centraal without fuss, the journey taking less than six hours and requiring neither reservation nor connection. From the station, we enjoyed a pleasant walk to our hotel, the NH Collection Amsterdam Flower Market, whose staff couldn't do enough for Annabelle, even hastily organising an Easter egg hunt when it became apparent that I'd completely forgotten what the resurrection of Christ means to people of a certain age. Over the next day and a bit, we wandered along the canals, tried some Dutch pancakes (poffertjes), and had a butcher's at the Rembrandts in the Rijksmuseum. No prizes for guessing which of these experiences Annabelle enjoyed the most. In truth, Annabelle was actually rather rude about Rembrandt. Sizing up the great painter's self-portrait of 1628, she suggested in no uncertain terms that he really shouldn't have bothered. Annabelle's verdict on our visit to the Anne Frank House was somewhat more measured. After spending a sobering hour listening to Anne's story as we navigated the building in which the Franks hid from the Nazis, she contributed the following to the visitors' book: 'I wish this museum didn't exist to be honest, but I'm really glad we came.' Sign up to Inside Saturday The only way to get a look behind the scenes of the Saturday magazine. Sign up to get the inside story from our top writers as well as all the must-read articles and columns, delivered to your inbox every weekend. after newsletter promotion As we tunnelled from Brussels to London, I could tell something had occurred to my niece because she was doing a little dance with her eyebrows. 'This time next year, I'll be 11,' she said. 'You will.' 'Which is still under 12.' 'It is.' 'Which means I still won't cost anything.' 'Not quite true, but I take your point.' 'So maybe we could do it again?' 'Maybe … ' 'Only this time we could go to Minsk and Essen and the other places you wanted to go to.' 'I'll have a word with your dad.' She shrugged, returned to a YouTube video involving Oreos, then said, very quietly and more to herself than to me: 'If you must.' Interrail passes were provided by Eurail, and start at £180 for four days' travel in a month (free for kids under 12). Accommodation was provided by The Hoxton Paris (doubles from £250, free extra bed for under 12s); Avani Rio Novo Venice (doubles from £127); NH Collection Amsterdam Flower Market (doubles from £200). Support provided by Innsbruck Tourism, Visit Berlin and I Amsterdam Ben Aitken's new book is Sh*tty Breaks: A Celebration of Unsung Cities (Icon Books, £18.99). To support the Guardian, order your copy at Delivery charges may apply.
India Today
15-05-2025
- India Today
Study Abroad: 6 hacks for cheap flights, student discounts and smart savings
Studying abroad is an exciting adventure, but it can also become costly if you're not careful. From airfare and accommodation to daily expenses, the costs can add up quickly. The good news is that with the right strategies, you can save a lot without missing out on your experience. Whether you're booking your first international flight or navigating life in a new country, these six travel hacks—ranging from finding cheap flights and student discounts to clever money-saving tips—will help you stretch your budget while maximising your time abroad opens up unparalleled academic and cultural opportunities, and with careful planning, you can create unforgettable travel experiences as well. However, between flights, hotels, and tours, expenses can accumulate rapidly. Thankfully, there are smart, student-friendly tips that can help you go further for less, inputs from Ritika Gupta, Counsellor at AAera are the best travel tips every study abroad student needs to know. 1. Fly cheap and book smartAirfare is one of the largest expenses, but it doesn't have to cost an arm and a fares using tools such as Skyscanner, Google Flights, or Hopper to monitor price midweek or off-peak hours whenever possible—this tends to be flying in and out of secondary airports if the primary hubs cost too shop incognito to prevent cookie-based price Student Universe and STA Travel provide special student and youth discounts—sign up and compare!2. Access student discounts everywhereBeing a student has its benefits—make the most of an International Student Identity Card (ISIC) for international student enquire if a museum, gallery, store, or restaurant has student prices—it's usually not advantage of various discount Most public transportation systems have youth or student passes—purchase them ahead of time to save a bundle on commuting.3. Pack light, travel easilySkip the high baggage fees and make things easy by packing in a carry-on backpack to save time and money at the essentials that can be layered and forget such essentials as a universal power adaptor, a refillable water bottle, and a compact first-aid Space-maximising compression packing cubes keep your bag tidy.4. Opt for budget-friendly transportationDitch expensive taxis—venture out and discover local transport and regional travel Europe, purchase a Eurail or Interrail pass for free-form train travel between overnight buses or trains to save on both transport and accommodation.5. Sleep cheap and safeHotels can be pricey—opt for budget alternatives with hostels via Hostel World or and read the reviews university housing boards for affordable sublets or short-term student Airbnb for group accommodations or couch-surfing for local, free experiences (just be careful and consider safety first).6. Take advantage of free and low-cost activitiesNot all things memorable are costly—some of the best are free walking tours in big cities (just tip your tour guide).Go to museums on free-admission days or with your student through local markets, parks, and cultural at Meetup or Facebook events for free local events.
National Geographic
15-05-2025
- National Geographic
A practical guide to exploring the Alps' classic highlights
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Wild as they are, the Alps are brilliantly accessible in the warmer months, whether you want to devise your own multi-day, cross-country trip on the frequent, efficient trains, or hit the trail on a long-distance, hut-to-hut hike. For planning, booking and money-saving tips, try this handy guide. What should I pack? Pack for the outdoors. Bring layers: a breathable fleece, loose walking trousers, hiking boots, flat shoes for cities., a wind/waterproof jacket, sunglasses for glare at high elevations and a daypack. For high-altitude hikes, add thermals, hiking poles, a compass, water bottle, torch, first aid kit and warm hat and gloves. How easy is it to get around by public transport? Exploring the Alps by rail makes perfect sense: trains are frequent, punctual and efficient, relatively inexpensive, and eco-friendly. There are generally some non-reserved seats, but it's advisable to buy tickets in advance in peak periods. Deeper in the Alps, mountain transport takes the form of funicular and cog railways, lifts and cable cars. How can I save on tickets? Get in quick. Many Alpine countries offer cut-price rail tickets, yielding discounts of up to 85% on less-popular days, times or routes. In Austria, these are called Sparschiene; in Germany, Sparpreis; and in Switzerland, Supersaver. They're generally available between six months and one day ahead of travel. If you're travelling around, look out for rail passes like the Swiss Travel Pass and Austria's Vorteilscard. Eurail and Interrail passes are valid on many routes. For high-Alpine transport, devote time to finding the best deals for the region you're visiting. Individual tickets can be pricey, and a discount pass will save you a fortune. Are there accessible options? Yes. Many trains, especially high-speed and intercity services, have lifts, ramps and mobility aids. Some cable cars and hiking trails do, too. Visit the relevant tourist board for details; Switzerland, in particular, has a sharp eye on accessibility. What if I want to drive? Roads in the Alps are generally well maintained and signposted, but you'll need to be a confident driver to tackle inclines and hairpin bends. Some Alpine passes are open year-round, others from June to October. In Austria and Switzerland, you'll need a vignette, or digital toll pass, to drive on major roads. How safe is it to hike? A few common-sense rules go a long way: inform a responsible person of your route, watch weather patterns using the Mountain Forecast app, wear the right clothing and footwear, take enough water and ensure your phone is charged. Increase the length and elevation of hikes gradually; if possible, don't walk alone at high altitudes. Avalanches and rock falls can be a risk, so stick to marked trails. These are generally colour graded: yellow or blue (easy and flat); white-red-white or red (moderately challenging, with some steep, exposed sections); white-blue-white or black (Alpine routes for experienced mountain hikers). For tougher hikes, take a map and compass. Are there any useful hiking and cycling guides? Cicerone publishes an excellent series of hiking, trekking, cycling and bikepacking guides to the Alps, with route descriptions and maps. GPX files are available for most of their books. Tiles include Cicerone, Walking in the Alps and Cicerone, 100 Hut Walks in the Alps. Online, try Bergfex for details on routes, tours, weather and accommodation. How far in advance should I book mountain huts? Most huts are staffed from mid-June to mid-September, and can be booked online, too; on popular trails in high season, you should do so months ahead. Huts with multibed dorms range from simple shelters to smart lodges with hot showers. Bring your own silk or cotton sleeping bag, a headtorch and earplugs. Take all rubbish with you. If you're planning a long-distance hike, consider membership with an Alpine club (DAV in Germany, ÖAV in Austria, SAC in Switzerland, CAI in Italy) for discounts of up to 50%. Their websites are a great resource for trail planning, weather and 1:25,000 topographic maps. Getting there & around: British Airways, EasyJet and Ryanair are among the airlines operating frequent flights from UK airports to Alpine gateways including Munich, Salzburg, Innsbruck, Zurich, Geneva and Milan. Average flight time: possible to reach the Alps by train. For example, London to Munich via Paris takes around 10h; fast trains to Geneva with one stop take as little as extensive and efficient network of trains, buses and mountain railways link up even the smallest towns and villages. Taxis are widely available in cities and towns but can be pricey. When to go: Alpine seasons go with the snow, with most high-altitude resorts closing in low season (mid-April to mid-June and October to early December). Conversely, this is a great time to score deals on flights and rooms in towns and cities. June, July and August are ideal for outdoor activities like hut-to-hut hikes, biking and rafting, with longer days and highs of up to 25C (77F). Winters are crisp and cold, with snow and temperatures often dipping below 0C (32F). The shoulder months of May and September are often mild and perfect for exploring, with temperatures hovering between 12C and 18C, and seasonal colour in wildflowers and foliage respectively. More info Walking in the Alps. Cicerone, £25 100 Hut Walks in the Alps. Cicerone, £14.95 How to do it: Nordic Visitor offers a 12-day Highlights of the Alps holiday from £4,800 per person. Ticking off Alpine regions in Germany, Austria and Switzerland, this small group tour zooms in on the classics — from Neuschwanstein Castle to the Glacier Express, Salzburg and Matterhorn. The price includes hotels on a B&B basis, four dinners, guides, transport and admission to attractions. Flights not included. Published in the May 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK). To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
The Independent
12-05-2025
- The Independent
What is our best route when Interrailing around Europe?
Q This summer we plan to Interrail for the first time. The basic plan: take Eurostar to Amsterdam, then cross Germany (visiting Heidelberg), onwards to Salzburg in Austria and across to northern Italy. Coming back, we thought we would travel from Milan back to Paris and home from there. What do you think? David M A To make the most of much of Europe, Interrail is ideal. Much of your plan looks shrewd: Amsterdam is always rewarding, and onward travel to Germany is easy. Pause in Essen to explore the dramatically reinvented industrial site of Zollverein – an unmatched post-apocalyptic theme park. Continue to Wuppertal, home of the marvellous dangling tram. You might also seek out Germany's football heartland, and museum, in Dortmund. With an Interrail pass, you can step aboard any intercity express for a faster journey and to avoid the crowds (enticed by the €58/£50 unlimited travel monthly pass on slower trains). Heidelberg is an excellent plan, offering heritage in a superb setting. Speed along to Munich and across the border to Salzburg. After sampling some Sound of Music sights, aim for Innsbruck to begin your trans-Alpine journey to northern Italy. To avoid surcharges and the need to book, stick to 'classic' trains in Italy rather than the high-speed options. You can still cover the ground easily. Meander across to Milan – but from there, I recommend cutting through Switzerland rather than going via France. You can use any Swiss train with an Interrail pass, unlike in France where you need to pay a supplement and book ahead for high-speed trains. Get at least a glimpse of Como – a fine town at the head of the Italian lake – then ensure you choose one of the trains heading through the mountains rather than through a 'base tunnel'. Make Basel your last Swiss stop for abundant culture and cuisine. From here, you could enter France, but I suggest following the German side of the Rhine and exploring some of the Black Forest before crossing to France. The high-speed line from Strasbourg to Paris is France's best, and worth the supplement, for a final day or two in the capital before taking Eurostar home. Q My partner Linda and I are thinking of going to Croatia in September or October by rail. But I am unsure about including Dubrovnik in our itinerary because we are not keen on mass tourism. What is your view? David F A Before I tackle Dubrovnik itself, I must raise a concern about your plan to travel to Croatia by rail. There are many excellent places to visit on the Adriatic coast by train, but all of them are in Italy. I am afraid that the Dalmatian coast of Croatia – as well as neighbouring Slovenia and nearby Albania – does not lend itself to access by rail. Even international rail guru Mark Smith, 'The man in Seat 61', recommends travelling to Split via the Croatian capital, Zagreb (a massive detour) and then continuing to Dubrovnik by bus. Travelling terrestrially, the way I would approach the Croatian coast is by rail to Trieste, the last station in Italy – then continuing by bus through Slovenia to the Croatian city of Rijeka. From this port, I would take a Jadrolinija ferry south to Split. From this fine city, you can continue onwards by bus or ferry to Dubrovnik. The question is: should you? I have just returned from my first visit to Dubrovnik in a decade. The difference was shocking: the city appears to have been handed over to tourists, with Game of Thrones fans jostling with cruise passengers. While the setting, monuments and city walls are as impressive as ever, the sheer weight of numbers would, I think, spoil a visit for you. Were you to delay your visit to the very end of October or into November, the city will feel very different. You will be able to enjoy its echoing lanes and handsome facades in something like splendid isolation, and make excursions – such as across the bay to the fishing port of Cavtat – without the crowds. If that does not appeal, I suggest you consider an alternative Adriatic destination. The obvious one for me is Durres, Albania's second city (after the capital, Tirana). You can reach it by ferry overnight from the Italian port of Ancona – or fly there in three hours flat. Direct buses run every hour from Tirana airport to Durres. Q My 21-year-old son and his girlfriend have booked flights to Asia for a six-week backpacking trip starting in July. They plan to visit Taiwan, Thailand and Vietnam. They have backpacked in Europe before but not in Asia. Is there anything in particular they need to know about staying safe? Susanna R A Top of my risk register anywhere on the planet, and particularly in Asia, is road travel. The UK is one of the safest nations in the world for road users. The fatality rate in Taiwan, where roads, vehicles and enforcement are reasonably good, is roughly twice as high. Tragically, in Thailand (with roughly the same population), the death toll is 15 times higher. The figures for Vietnam are similarly awful. Most of the fatalities (about two out of three) involve riders and passengers of motorscooters and three-wheeled tuk-tuks. As a backpacker, I have taken plenty of rides on these – until I looked at the World Health Organisation figures. So I urge young travellers in cities to stick to the Metro system where available (Bangkok's is extensive, and in Vietnam, both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City have opened lines in the past four years). Elsewhere, aim for proper taxis. And while renting a scooter has lots of appeal, it is a high-risk activity and unlikely to be covered by backpacker insurance. For longer journeys, the risks for professionally driven buses are lower. But I always take trains instead when available, or sometimes fly. Next in line: accidents in water, particularly when swimming. The Foreign Office warns for Thailand: 'People have drowned in strong riptides. Follow all warning signs [at beaches], especially red flags. Take care when swimming, diving, kayaking or whitewater rafting in rivers or close to waterfalls, particularly in the rainy season. Currents can be extremely strong.' Adventure tourism is common across the region, and they should ask other travellers for recommendations of safety-conscious operators. Protection against tropical diseases is also critical. My go-to source is the Public Health Scotland travel medicine website – – which provides advice on all the recommended jabs. I do all I can to avoid mosquito bites, mainly by covering up: these unpleasant insects spread malaria and other diseases. With the dangers of road accidents, drownings and disease minimised, the residual risks are small. I hope they have a great adventure. Q We are flying to Halifax, Nova Scotia, on 19 May to visit family. Should we use the 'ArriveCAN' app to maybe get through border control more quickly? My wife used it three years ago – but that was for Covid reasons. Robert C A I read your question with a shudder of recollection. I have a fair few apps on my phone that were mandatory in order to access nations during the Covid pandemic. Typically, you had to upload evidence of vaccinations and/or Covid test results before you were even allowed on a plane to your destination. In the case of Canada, I made numerous border crossings in late 2021 and the summer of 2022 – all of which required the use of ArriveCAN. What is unusual about this Covid-era invention is that it has mutated into an 'Advance Declaration' app. The government in Ottawa says: 'You can make your customs and immigration declaration using Advance Declaration in the ArriveCAN app before you fly into one of Canada's participating airports.' (These are all the obvious gateways, including Halifax and Quebec City as well as Montreal, Toronto, Calgary and Vancouver.) I am not sure that I agree with the assertion that it is an aesthetic pleasure to 'enjoy a more modern travel experience with a digital self-serve tool'. But I do like the idea of whizzing through passport control and customs after a long flight, and not having to fill in tiresome paper forms. After I received your question, I made a dummy application using my existing ArriveCAN account and a fictional itinerary to Canada. You can apply 72 hours or less before arrival. It took three minutes, and I was emailed confirmation of completing the form instantly. Happily, unlike in 2022, I was not instructed to bring proof of a Covid pre-entry test and vaccinations. The idea that you pre-register your arrival in return for a smoother frontier experience is spreading: at Singapore, it is virtually mandatory. While not every traveller will be comfortable or able to comply, this is the digital direction of travel for the world. If, like me, you are open to anything that cuts travel hassle, I suggest you sign up.
Telegraph
12-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Telegraph
In underrated Basel, big-city cool meets provincial charm
Up to half a million music fans are swarming into Basel for this year's Eurovision Song Contest. The concert venue is in the outskirts and hotel rooms will be hard to come by. Chances are, many fans will simply travel straight in and then straight out again – but if they linger for a little while, they'll be amazed by what they find. Basel isn't just my favourite Swiss city. It's one of my favourite cities in the whole of Europe, and I never miss a chance to come here. Last year, I came for Art Basel, Europe's biggest art fair. The year before, I came to interview Basel-based Swiss 'starchitects' Herzog & De Meuron (their quirky, eclectic buildings have reshaped Basel's skyline). More than any other European city, it's a place which feels like home. OK, so I'm a bit biased. Basel was the first foreign city I got to know, back in the long hot summer of 1984. I'd come here with my first girlfriend, on my first Interrail trip. Apart from a couple of day trips to Calais, it was the first time I'd set foot on the Continent. We thought we'd sleep on night trains and travel all over Europe, but of course that was a daft idea. Sick, tired and disenchanted, we ended up in Basel, where a friend of ours was house-sitting. We spent a week here. It was one of the best weeks of my life. For a long time thereafter I stayed away, scared to return and remember all I'd lost, but during the last decade I've been back half a dozen times, and I'm no longer fearful of those teenage memories. As I arrive at Basel's main station, a solitary visitor in my (very) late fifties, I step off the train into a sea of teenagers, and I realise that to be a lifelong traveller is to become a sort of ghost. I catch a tram into town and alight in Basel's busy Marktplatz. This is the centre of the city, and it sums up Basel's dual appeal – a bizarre, beguiling blend of metropolis and market town. The imposing buildings would befit a capital, particularly the ornate, blood-red Rathaus (town hall), but the market in the cobbled square feels pleasantly provincial – local traders selling fruit and veg, cheese, sausages and wild mushrooms. My bedroom in the sleek and stylish Hotel Märthof overlooks the market. From my window I look down on all the people shopping, snacking and gossiping in the square below, as they have done here for centuries. Switzerland is one the world's wealthiest countries, but it's these enduring links with the old ways, the simple things, which makes it special. Basel is Switzerland's third biggest city, after Zurich and Geneva, but unlike Zurich or Geneva it has no lake, which is why it doesn't attract so many tourists. But Basel has one thing which no other Swiss city has, and that's the mighty River Rhine. A border and a thoroughfare, Europe's oldest autobahn, this river never fails to lift my spirits, and the view from Basel's robust Mittlerebrücke (literally 'middle bridge') is especially inspiring. This is the oldest bridge across the Rhine and it's the source of all Basel's wealth. On the river's long journey, from the Alps to the North Sea, this is the first point that's navigable for big ships, so it's always been a hub of commerce and culture. I watch the barges chug below, bound for Cologne and Rotterdam. Blessed with this unique location, Basel became one of Europe's most important inland ports. Like all great ports, it also became a centre of ideas. Erasmus of Rotterdam, the main man of the Northern European Renaissance, fled here from the Low Countries, where his radical philosophy was far too dangerous. He's buried in the Münster, the city's biggest, grandest church, which looms over the river like a lighthouse. I eat lunch at Ufer7, a debonair yet homely restaurant in a medieval building on the riverbank. The promenade outside is full of youngsters, lounging on the stone steps beside the river – drinking, flirting, basking in the spring sunshine. The last time I was here was five years ago, just as the city was shutting down for Covid. A lot of water has passed under the ancient Mittlerebrücke since then. I'm joined for coffee by my jolly Swiss guide, Elsa, who takes me on a walking tour of Basel's modern landmarks. Although the antique city centre is charming, with lots of medieval and baroque buildings, nowadays Basel is equally renowned for its contemporary architecture, driven by Herzog & De Meuron, and other local 'starchitects' like Diener & Diener and Christ & Gantenbein. We head for the Novartis Campus, the biggest concentration of these landmark buildings. A former industrial site, a short walk from the city centre, it's now crowded with glitzy office blocks in a spectacular array of styles. There are buildings by nine Pritzker Prize winners here, including Briton Sir David Chipperfield. I walk back into town along the river and fill up on schnitzel and rösti at Gifthüttli, a quaint and cosy Swiss restaurant on a backstreet in the Old Town. With wood-panelled walls and draught beer, it's a lively rendezvous for locals, as well as visitors. I shuffle back across the deserted Marktplatz and stagger happily up to bed. Next morning I'm up bright and early to visit my favourite gallery, Fondation Beyeler in Riehen, a sleepy village on the green edge of town. Founded by local art dealer Ernst Beyeler to house his stunning collection of late 19th- and early 20th-century paintings (all the biggest names in classic modernism, from Monet to Picasso), the building is beautiful, a discreet, sun-drenched pavilion designed by Italian architect Renzo Piano. The leafy grounds are equally lovely, a peaceful garden hidden behind a high wall. Switzerland's most popular gallery, it attracts several hundred thousand visitors every year, yet somehow it never feels overrun. This serene gallery is the starting point for one of my favourite walks. I wander through lush meadows, across a narrow, shallow river, and over the border into Germany (both France and Germany are within walking distance of Basel). I hike uphill through steep vineyards – this borderland produces some superb wines – and down into the German border town of Weil am Rhein. My destination is the Vitra Museum, built by Herzog & De Meuron (yes, them again) with pavilions by Frank Gehry and Zaha Hadid. Part factory, part showroom, its focus is Vitra furniture, but there are also excellent exhibitions devoted to other brands. There's a café and a restaurant, and a neat little garden. If you're interested in design it's fascinating, and a pleasant place to hang out. As I walk back towards the border, through Weil am Rhein, I remember, with a start, the first time I came here, before the Vitra Museum or the Fondation Beyeler were even built. We were swimming in that river, my girlfriend, my friend and I. I'd cycled back to the house to fetch more wine and crashed my borrowed bike, bending the front wheel beyond repair. As I cross the border, I realise the house was just up the road. Back in town that evening, wolfing down wild boar sausages and sauerkraut in a friendly neighbourhood restaurant called Taverne Johann, I wonder why I remain so fond of Basel. Naturally, a personal connection always adds something – you probably feel much the same about the place where you first fell in love – but it's not just that which keeps bringing me back. Sure, it's partly the art and architecture, and the scenery, but most of all it's about being at the crossroads of the Continent, the age-old junction between the Alps and the North Sea. Some places have a certain magic, and Basel is one of them, and its magic is in the Rhine. As my twilit tram clanked across the old stone bridge, I looked down at the dark water, and I remembered a few lines by WH Auden, forgotten since my schooldays: It was late, late in the evening, The lovers they were gone; The clocks had ceased their chiming, And the deep river ran on. Essentials
