20-07-2025
I tried: These award winning cheeses made in Gwent
JAMES Joyce once described cheese as 'the corpse of milk.' As a veteran cheddar sceptic there's nothing more corpsey than cheddar 'cheese'.
I also regard adding faddish ingredients to cheese as pointless. Cheese is just milk, culture and time. So, when challenged to try a cheddar that has cider and marmalade added to the mix, I envied those munching - or slurping - on pot noodles.
I had long dismissed cheddar as dairy's beige wallpaper, fit only for grilling, a workday sarnie filler or to placate uncouth guests with a token cheese plate. Proper cheese, I insisted, should challenge the palate, not comfort it. So, when I was dared to try Blaenafon Cheddar infused with onion marmalade and taffy apple cider, I braced myself for disappointment, culture shock and possible revulsion.
My last brave food assignment was trying what was billed as 'Wales's best hot dog' at Aimmee's Street Food, and was impressed by the top dog! I do believe in food redemption, but not in miracles, so I didn't hold out much hope for cheddar from Blaenavon with added bits.
Taste test: Ok, I was completely wrong about cheese and my own palate!
From the first bite, it was clear this was no ordinary cheddar. The texture was a revelation, buttery and still as crumbly as any quality mature cheddar. The mouthfeel was exquisite, the combination of complexities made me search for cheese accompaniments and pretentious foodie words like 'umami'.
The flavour was layered and complex. The mature cheddar brought a deep, savoury hit, while the onion marmalade added a smoky sweetness that contrasted the crisp cider vibe. It was sweet and sharp, rustic and refined, a cheese with true character.
This is no sandwich filler, toastie griller or sop to uncultured palates. It was a conversation starter, a centrepiece, a must-try for anyone who thinks cheddar has to be dull - fromage ennui! This delightful cheese challenged me and taught me something I didn't know - that cheddar is a great cheese and deserves its place on any discerning plate.
Blaenafon Cheddar has earned its place not just on my cheese board, but in my heart. It is proof that even the most familiar cheeses can surprise you, if you give them the chance.
These cheddars are handmade, vegetarian-friendly, and wax-coated, which gives it a six-month shelf life. The above reviewed taffy apple cider and onion marmalade-infused cheese is an award-winning cheddar and is among several products that use local alcohols that act as natural preservative.
The 1868 cheddar is aged in the cellars of The Lion Hotel. The Pwll Mawr cheese is matured in Big Pit coal mine, 300ft below the surface. All wax casings show Blaenavon industrial heritage designs.
Eat them all, you'll have no regrets.
