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Irish Independent
24-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Irish Independent
Restaurant review: ‘Overall I am disappointed by the food, which simply doesn't pack as much flavour as it should'
From dull prawns to a gimmicky dessert, the menu and service at JP McMahon's new Galway Japanese fail to impress our critic It's the Galway International Arts Festival, the busiest two weeks of the year in a city never short of an excuse for a pint or a party. Shop Street is thronged with luvvies who haven't seen each other in a while embracing luvvily, while legions of tourists carrying bags of tat follow their pole-carrying leaders. Festival goers on their way to and from performances and exhibitions and gigs follow no one other than the person who might be able to finagle them into the Druid double bill of Macbeth and Riders to the Sea, this year's hottest ticket. The queue outside the Gothic-style Middle Street church, for what I assume to be an exclusive cultural happening, turns out to be for a funeral instead. Even in the midst of all this culture, life and death go on.
Irish Times
09-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Irish Times
First Look: JP McMahon's new Kombu Ramen and Bao Bar – ‘I don't know how to do anything else. I like opening restaurants'
It's all systems go in the dining space at the Druid Theatre in Galway , as JP McMahon prepares to open his latest venture. Highly regarded for his strong Irish menus at Michelin-starred restaurant Aniar , JP also owns the more casual Cava tapas and wine bar. Always on the go, JP holds a PhD in drama and theatre, he paints, and has published several cookbooks and books on Irish food. 'My daughter asked me why I'm opening another restaurant. I said I just don't know how to do anything else. I like opening restaurants.' When former resident Éan closed its doors towards the end of 2024, it left a gap in the city's casual dining options. JP entered into discussions with the Druid Theatre about taking over the food operation and a deal was struck in April which gave him the green light to start preparing for the opening of a casual eatery in the middle of Galway city. READ MORE 'I'd wanted to open a Japanese restaurant since 2019, but Covid got in the way of early plans for a restaurant and townhouse on Dominick Street Lower. In hindsight, that might not have been a bad thing,' he says. Why a Japanese-style restaurant? 'I love cooking different flavours of food and teaching them in my cooking classes. Over the years I've spent in the kitchen, I got more and more into Japanese cooking and ingredients, mainly a result of developing dishes for Aniar. Kombu will be an homage to Japan in the same way as Cava is an homage to Spain, and will be a space where people can pop in and out.' As some of the beautiful stone walls at the Druid Theatre are protected, JP has been limited in the changes he could make to this lovely space. Local artist Tracey Moca has been commissioned to bring life to the diningroom and bathrooms with vibrant graffiti art, which will match the urban hip-hop style playlist from friend and fellow chef Matt Orlando. Art by Tracey Moca features on Kombu's walls. Photograph: Joe O'Shaughnessy Head of operations Abigail Colleran outside Kombu on Druid Lane. Photograph: Joe O'Shaughnessy The biggest change, however, has taken place in the kitchen, which has been replaced by a custom-designed layout designed to match the menu and ensure that food gets to customers as efficiently as possible. [ Summer 2025: 100 great restaurants, cafes and places to eat around Ireland Opens in new window ] 'I learned this lesson a long time ago – not to work bric-a-brac style, adding on piecemeal to existing kitchens. It doesn't work in the long run. I wanted an efficient kitchen that is also the best possible environment for my staff. We use induction hobs, which means lower temperatures, making it easier to move and an overall nicer environment. We will, however, still have a charcoal grill to give that special charred finish to yakitori and other dishes.' Sections on the menu include bao buns, noodles, rice dishes, yakitori skewers, small plates and sweet things. And while this may look as expected for a casual Japanese-style restaurant, JP and head chef Gabriel Ossani just can't help showing their fine-dining background. Head chef Gabriel Ossani hard at work in Kombu. Photograph: Joe O'Shaughnessy Pork belly from Andarl Farm is marinated in sake, soy and mirin for 14 hours before being cooked and finding its way into pork belly bao or ramen. Other eye-catching options include Sichuan-inspired Dan Dan noodles, smoked eel rice and the cult katsu sando or crispy Japanese pork sandwich. For dessert, diners can choose between a bao bun filled with chocolate cremeux flavoured with wasabi salt or soft-serve ice-cream topped with crumbled meringue and delicate dried fruits. [ JP McMahon explains why he decided to close his popular Galway restaurant Tartare Opens in new window ] Prices will range from €7.50 for a vegetarian maitake mushroom bao all the way to €19.50 for beef chef teriyaki. It was important to JP to ensure that customers could have options under €10 for a quick meal. Desserts will come in around the €9 mark. The food is accompanied by a short curated list of organic, biodynamic and natural wines, developed in conjunction with JP's existing suppliers, in addition to sakes, beers, soft drinks and non-alcoholic options. There is room for about 50 people indoors, with 35 seats available for reservation in the main diningroom, with another 15 high-top tables kept for walk-ins. An additional 10 diners can be accommodated outside on a walk-in basis, weather permitting. Dogs are welcome inside and out. Kombu will initially open five nights a week, Tuesday-Thursday 5pm to close, Friday 4pm to close and Saturday 3pm to close. There are plans to launch a Sunday brunch, including cocktails, after the summer months, and the long-term goal is to open seven days a week. Kombu opens on Friday, July 11th
Irish Independent
21-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Irish Independent
Galway set for new Japanese restaurant from acclaimed city restauranteur
Kombu - which is named after the Japanese seaweed – is a new ramen and bao bar and will be operated by award-winning chef and restaurateur JP McMahon. The new location will operate from Druid Lane in Galway city and has been described by McMahon as a 'love letter to Japan', with a menu featuring ramen bowls, rice dishes, bao buns and other Japanese cuisine. The menu has been inspired by traditional Japanese street food, according to McMahon, who says that Kombu is a 'realisation' of his love for Japanese cuisine. A social media post by the restaurant has teased one of the potential dishes on offer at the restaurant, with further updates expected closer to the opening date. Kombu will further bolster McMahon's restaurant portfolio in Galway. The Dublin-born chef also runs Michelin star restaurant Aniar on Dominick St in Galway city and is the co-owner and chef patron of Cava Bodega on Middle St. 'I've taught Japanese cooking classes at Aniar for years,' said Mr McMahon. 'Our Ramen and Bao Bar pop-ups have been a big hit at at Aniar as part of Blas na Gaillimhe Festivals of Food, and of course, I'm passionate about cooking with seaweed, utilising it broadly in Aniar - so this felt like a natural evolution.' A head chef has been put in place, with Aniar chef Gabriel Ossani taking the reins. Further hires are expected with the restaurant taking applications for managerial positions, as well as floor staff, additional chefs and kitchen porters.
Irish Independent
15-05-2025
- Climate
- Irish Independent
Six spots in Galway to dine al fresco as sunshine remains on the menu
According to Met Eireann, temperatures are set to reach heights of 23C in Connacht over the next few days and conditions are due to stay dry. With that in mind, there's no better excuse to head into the city for dinner and drinks al fresco to enjoy the warm sun and the grand stretch in the evening. Around this time of year, Galway's Westend opens up into Dominick Street with most restaurants and bars putting their tables and chairs out for the summer season. Unfortunately the annual ritual is facing a delay this year after a legal challenge to the pedestrianisation of some of streets. Thankfully there are still spots across the city to enjoy some outdoor dining and soak up the sunshine – while it lasts. Cava Bodega Helmed by top Galway chef JP McMahon of Aniar, this tapas restaurant residing on Middle Street has the perfect suntrap locked down for those wanting to immerse themselves in the buzzy atmosphere of the Latin Quarter. With an extensive wine list, it's also the perfect spot to pretend you're in Spain. Sangria Sticking with tapas and Middle Street, Sangria sets itself apart with an inventive drinks menu to enjoy alongside some patatas bravas or padron peppers. Their outside seating is a great spot to enjoy the hotter temperature while we have it. The Universal This small plates restaurant is an underrated gem, and the outside seating is a great spot to enjoy the atmosphere of the city's West end area. While the outside seating area isn't as large as it usually is this time of year, you can still book one of their outside tables for dinner and drinks. Dough Bros A Galway institution, Dough Bros has gained a reputation for fantastic pizza done well. While its Middle Street branch only offers seating inside, there's always the option to get a pizza and enjoy it along the Claddagh. Then as always, pizza fans can also enjoy Dough Bros in O'Connell's pub beer garden. More recently, Dough Bros owners opened Lil' Bros, a New York-style takeaway spot where you can get a large pizza slice to take away. Just keep an eye out for hungry seagulls! Freddy's Another great spot for pizza, Freddy's places you right in the thick of things as it resides along the busy Latin Quarter area. As the city's tourist season is in full swing, it may be difficult to secure a spot – but once you do, it's entirely worth it. ADVERTISEMENT Ruibin Well known as one of Galway's most popular restaurants, the dockside eatery provides outdoor picnic-style tables for diners to enjoy the sea breeze while sipping on one of their famous cocktails and savouring a small plate or two.
Irish Post
08-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Irish Post
Irish culinary entrepreneur reveals inspiration behind new restaurant offering
RESTAURATEUR JP McMahon has revealed a love of Japanese food inspired a new offering set to open in Galway next month. The chef, who owns the Michelin-starred Aniar restaurant and Cava Bodega, both in the city, will launch his new ramen and bao bar Kombu in June. Chef JP McMahon will open his new restaurant on Druid's Lane in Galway (Pic: Andrew Downes) 'Kombu is a realisation of my love of Japanese food, which I've long admired,' McMahon said this week. 'I've taught Japanese cooking classes at Aniar for years, our Ramen and Bao Bar pop-ups have been a big hit at at Aniar as part of Blas na Gaillimhe Festivals of Food, and of course, I'm passionate about cooking with seaweed, utilising it broadly in Aniar - so this felt like a natural evolution," he added. Kombu, named after the Japanese seaweed, will open on Druid's Lane in Galway in late June. Described by McMahon as 'a love letter to Japan,' the menu will feature steaming bowls of ramen, teriyaki, tempura, rice dishes, and a creative selection of bao buns—including a playful dessert like a chocolate ganache bao bun topped with wasabi sea salt. See More: Aniar, Galway, JP McMahon, Japanese Food, Kombu, Restaurant
