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Goa's JSan comes to Soka, Bengaluru
Goa's JSan comes to Soka, Bengaluru

The Hindu

time17-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • The Hindu

Goa's JSan comes to Soka, Bengaluru

JSan in Goa is a Japanese restaurant helmed by chef Vishesh Jawarani. The izakaya gastro pub comes to Bengaluru's popular cocktail bar, Soka for a pop-up. The pop-up has 100 seats and is only on for one day. The afternoon will see JSan's favourite dishes paired with unique cocktails by Soka. The highlights of the menu are dishes like tomato geotjeori, made of cherry tomatoes, tofu crema and a tempura furikake. The tuna tartare is paired with umami pro max, a Tequila and vermouth cocktail by Soka. The pork tonkotsu ramen goes with a drink called Takeshi's Castle, a Bombay Sapphire creation. The chicken karaage goes hand in hand with JSan Derulo, a white rum drink. ₹1,200 per head. On July 13, 12.30 PM. At Soka, Domlur, Indiranagar. For more details, call 9353045053

What makes JSan the ultimate destination for ramen lovers in Goa?
What makes JSan the ultimate destination for ramen lovers in Goa?

The Hindu

time27-06-2025

  • Entertainment
  • The Hindu

What makes JSan the ultimate destination for ramen lovers in Goa?

Ramen is not pretty. With all the elements converging inside a big bowl, it calls for a fair bit of slurping, swishing, messing, digging, pulling and simply surrendering to the umami. There is a focused attention to detail that goes into making the perfect bowl of ramen, elevating the dish to a global cult. This has been aced by chef Vishesh Jawarani, the founder of JSan — an Izakaya Gastro pub that opened its doors to Goa early this year. Vishesh brings with him his Michelin star halo from New York, along with an unabashed passion for Japanese pub grub, to this 'ramen mecca' — a pilgrimage site for ramen lovers. 'Ramen is a beautiful paradox; it looks simple but is incredibly complex. It has taken a lot of research and experimentation to come up with the recipes of each ramen at JSan. The key is balance,' he reveals. He has refused to serve sushi and sashimis, and instead, we have beautifully plated small serves, a graceful prelude to his ramen, the showstopper, of course. Japanese-inspired spaces JSan has a gentle flow and aesthetic, with a few elements of surprise. The space is designed by Vishesh's architect father, Somesh Jawarani, with the central theme of yūgen, or grace, and elements of wabi sabi, the concept of embracing imperfections, thrown in for good measure. The walkway from the entrance, with flaming-orange-coloured torii gates, is a stunning portal a reprieve from the rush of Anjuna, known for a certain eclectic buzz, that morphed over the years from its somewhat sketchy reputation. Kintsugi-inspired flooring with broken tiles, lovingly held together were all done during the construction phase, Vishesh tells us. 'In a world obsessed with perfection and constant upgrades, wabi-sabi reminds us that there's value in simplicity. It teaches us to slow down and appreciate what's real; the weathered, the incomplete and the transient,' he adds. Murmuring, water fixtures and lush gardens around create a zen-like sanctuary with a wall full of painted, leaping monkeys adding its own whimsy. Brick moulds from Vishesh's great-grandfather's brick mills adorn the walls, while sculptural wooden elements crafted by his father add character. The elements of mismatch are clearly intentional, but endearing. Reverence for craft Vishesh has perfected three distinct noodle styles, each of which is tailored to complement different broths, right from the rich, umami tonkotsu to the milky-white and wholesome paitan. A ramen lover knows that the tori paitan featuring a creamy, rich chicken-based broth is a contrast to the more popular tonkotsu ramen, which uses pork bones While the tonkotsu broth is distilled down to its essence over two days using the age-old yobimodoshi technique, which lends it a velvety finish, the tori paitan broth, is a medley of chicken carcasses, feet, skin, and wings, continuously broken down and stirred to extract maximum collagen for 12 hours. They are both, delicious and soul nourishing. The tuna tartare and sea bass ceviche are mention-worthy openings to the meal, as is the mushroom chawanmushi, a silken egg-custard — and we didn't miss the sushi at all. Though the ramen does most of the talking, one must remember to save room for dessert. The Honey Butter Shokupan is jiggly and buttery; a simple and soulful sweet ending, topped with Madagascar vanilla bean ice cream, whipped cream, and seasonal fruits…we had it with mango, of course. Cleanse the palate JSan's beverage menu, curated by mixologists Nitin Tewari and Suyash Pande, leans into fresh, light, and palate-cleansing flavours. Japanese ingredients and local Indian botanicals come together to create an appealing cocktail menu that is restrained, yet imaginative. The zero-proof cocktails under their Buzz Free section deserve a special mention as they were crafted with care. For a true taste of Japan, try the Sakura and Umeshu, which is tart and refreshing… my favourite one from the evening. Umeshu is a Japanese plum liqueur made by steeping Japanese ume plums in alcohol and sugar, and it pairs beautifully with the delicate botanicals of gin. For those seeking adventure and dimension, there's Akira, with gin, Campari, sweet vermouth embracing toasty notes of black sesame and coconut. An audacious spin on the negroni! A turning point? Vishesh's journey was one of redirections. With a couple of business degrees under his belt, Vishesh had first tried his hand in different vocations, then segued into the Culinary Institute of America, after which he sharpened his knife at some of New York's most-celebrated Michelin-starred restaurants like Daniel, Atoboy, a Michelin Bib Gourmand Korean-American restaurant, and Mari, a Michelin-starred Korean handroll omakase spot. Strangely reminiscent of Carmy from comedy drama series The Bear, his trained focus, coupled with a drive from his enterprising Sindhi roots, sets him apart. At JSan, he's ably supported by his dynamic sous chef, Swamini Mandlik, who brings her own Michelin-starred experience from Le Pavillon in New York, along with an unassumingly quiet focus, giving every dish a laser-sharp precision and balance. Why the love for Japan, we ask Vishesh? 'When I travelled to Japan, everything I had admired from a distance came to life. Eating at small ramen shops, visiting Sakai city and having a custom Japanese knife made to my preferences were unique experiences,' he says, adding, 'Building relationships with knife makers, chefs, bartenders and experiencing the culture's reverence for seasonality and simplicity, made me fall in love with it on a deeper level.' JSan, located in Goa, next to Cliff's Monty Guesthouse, opposite Artjuna, Monteiro Vaddo, Anjuna, is open on Monday, Wednesday and Thursday (5pm to 11pm) and Friday, Saturday and Sunday (12noon to 3pm | 7pm to 11pm). A meal for two costs approximately ₹3,500

Marinate smarter not longer with the help of these two ingredients
Marinate smarter not longer with the help of these two ingredients

Indian Express

time15-06-2025

  • Health
  • Indian Express

Marinate smarter not longer with the help of these two ingredients

Marination isn't just a flavour enhancer — it's a science-backed technique that transforms both texture and taste. Whether you are preparing juicy kebabs, or trying to make a roast, marinating your choice of protein is the first step when it comes to making sure it soaks in all the flavours and spices. 'While not strictly fundamental for every single dish wherein high-quality cuts rely on the meat's natural flavor, marination is a highly beneficial technique used for several key reasons, such as flavor infusion, tenderization and moisture retention,' said executive chef Tamoghna Chakraborty, DoubleTree by Hilton Whitefield, Bangalore. According to Chef Chakraborty, both acid and salt play significant roles, but in slightly different ways. 'Salt is crucial for flavor absorption. Through a process related to osmosis and diffusion, salt helps to draw out moisture from the meat, and helps denature and loosen the protein structure within the muscle fibers. Acids like vinegar, lemon juice, lime juice, wine, yogurt, buttermilk on the other hand primarily work by denaturing proteins on the surface of the meat,' he explained. Acids add their distinct tangy flavor to the marinade and the surface of the meat. Unlike salt, acids don't penetrate very deeply into the meat. While they help tenderise the exterior, they don't significantly drive other marinade flavors deep into the cut, he added. For example, Chef Vishesh Jawarani, founder of JSan, an Izakaya gastropub, Goa shared that they use a marinade of rice vinegar, sake, soy, mirin and seasonings to make Chicken Karaage. 'We marinate the chicken for at least 24 hours and keep it in the refrigerator to ensure it is well-marinated and seasoned. Prior to frying we bring the chicken back to room temperature,' he added. Chef Ritesh Tulsian, NXT LVL, Mumbai shared some key pointers to ensure your marination game is on point: 'Don't over-marinate—too much acid for too long can make meat mushy. And always marinate in the fridge, not at room temperature,' Chef Sanchit – head chef, Heritage Village Resorts and Spa, Goa, added.

under the hood of 5 cocktail dens in India
under the hood of 5 cocktail dens in India

The Hindu

time30-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • The Hindu

under the hood of 5 cocktail dens in India

You might consider going all the way to JSan in Goa to get Chef Vishesh Jawarani's take on Japanese Izakaya (literally stay-drink-place), or to Crackle Kitchen in Bengaluru to explore omakase. But you cannot get into Chennai's MadCo. unless you pass the test, and likewise at Zorawar Kalra's Mamma Killa, Delhi's first Aztec-themed members-only bar. Chef-steered experiences and curated menus fundamental to the 2025 resto bar, as well as the small plates with drinks typical of Tokyo's Izakaya culture, have evolved unique bar themes and hospitality design. Aiming for visitors to slow down, mingle, and be indulged, from cosy 22-seaters to bustling 400-plus, designers fuse global and Indian trends for an audience desiring elevated experiences. Architect Ashiesh Shah elaborates, 'Bars today are experiential spaces. Five years ago, the focus may have been more on functionality and glamour; today, it's storytelling, mood-building, and emotional connection. They're no longer taboo but rather cultural venues. There's a shift towards creating bespoke, curated environments where design plays a central role in how the space feels, not just looks. It's also about inclusivity — welcoming different people into a space that respects craft, context, and community.' MOAI, Hyderabad Architect: Vikram Singh Minhas Spread across a sprawling 24,000 sq. ft. in Hyderabad's Financial District, MOAI is a 450-seater resto-bar designed by Vikram Singh Minhas to deliver dual experiences: refined fine dining by day and a high-energy bar by night. The theme, inspired by the boulders in the natural landscape of the region in the city's outskirts, draws from the monumental Moai statues of Easter Island, lending to the larger-than-life aura of the space. Catering to the rapidly growing hospitality scene in the neighbourhood, the design by Minhas is a 450-seater crowd pleaser. While the target audience is above the age of 21, people of all ages land up at MOAI, where carefully crafted culinary journeys and a vibrant ambience come together. Most of all, it's the return to nature that evocatively unfolds in the organic layout. Natural elements like quarry-cut stone walls, granite flooring, and a 150-foot-long glass facade connect guests to the lush outdoors, while a tranquil koi pond and inbuilt brick seating that allows natural airflow, evoke serenity — a response to post-pandemic cravings for open, breathable environments. Varied zones break down the vast space into intimate retreats. Discreet grey drop-down cylindrical lights focus on the food. Towering above are Moai sculpture heads, some up to 15 feet. Made of FRP by local artist Ranga, they mimic stone faithfully — right to the sumptuous textures and hues — creating visual drama. Minhas attributes the main factors contributing to the evolving space of fine dining and drinks as the desire for immersive experiences. And both clients and the audience are willing to pay for it. Clients have also become more exploratory, which gives designers a free rein to experiment. Further, the typical visitor today is a global traveller, and they come with a wider sense of appreciation for extravagant detailing. As Minhas puts it, 'Most people come in and remark — I don't feel like I'm in Hyderabad.' This is the very spirit behind the drink and dine destination — to be transported elsewhere. MADCo., Chennai Madras Cocktail Company, popularly known as 'MadCo.', opened last year with the idea of a speakeasy bar with restricted access. Managing Partner Santhosh Zachariah Abraham wanted to disrupt the stodgy image of Chennai with a convivial watering hole where young and old can come together for a fine dining and drinking experience. The afternoon I meet Zachariah, he is enthusiastically planning a Singles Social Mixer for ages 27 to 40, something he says no one in Chennai has ever done. 'This is a community space, not a commercial bar.' Zachariah's 15 years at Bacardi inspired him to create a cosy hang-out for regulars fastidious about the quality and balance of their drinks. A carefully curated group of well-travelled folks with discerning taste, a yen for experimental cocktails and artful menus make MadCo. what it is — a premium and exclusive cocktail bar. Zachariah credits his Founding Partner RVS Kiran for the once-neglected space transformed into a lively hub. The 1,000 sq. ft. space is a cleverly refurbished ground floor with an obscure entrance. The wow factor is a dimmable 'starry sky' made of thousands of fairy lights set into wooden tubes of varying heights that effortlessly conceal unbecoming beams. Mirror and glass vie with sensibly tiled floors to make a splash. The corner bar has a fluted wood front and a countertop of concrete and epoxy that can take any spill. The experience of mixology is core to the design. Under a shiny curved ceiling, a vacuum-sealed pouch with fruit and spices simmer in a sous vide process for a banana oleo-saccharum (a syrup extract) for MadCo.'s custom cocktails. Copper-clad table tops marry chairs covered with svelte pale yellows, duns and leaf green lending to a smart and functional dining space, with cosy tables and chairs for two, benches across couch-seaters paired for four, and bar-style high-chair set-ups for six. Touch lamps complete the intimate feel at tables. Designed for 65, the bar can take up to 75. MadCo. stands as a bold, nuanced reminder of the curious mix of old Madras and modern Chennai — in spirit, taste, and style. Ru, Hyderabad Architect: The Linespace Studio When The Linespace Studio was commissioned to design a resto-bar for up to 300 in Jubilee Hills, architects Mithul Sanghi and Disha Bhansali embraced an approach that honoured the awe-inspiring natural landscape. 'In our firm, we believe each project should be true to its intent,' Sanghi explains. At Ru — an extract of the word 'ruin' — that intent became an architectural homage to the site's rugged boulders, evocative of how monuments age. Spanning 14,000 sq. ft., Ru draws inspiration from the Japanese philosophy of Wabi Sabi, which finds beauty in imperfections. Designed across five levels, the structure wraps around the existing rock formations, with the lower three levels discreetly housing service areas. At the pinnacle — 50 feet above ground — guests experience panoramic views of the adjacent government park from both indoor and semi-outdoor seating areas. Material choices reinforce the narrative of natural ageing: sustainable fly-ash bricks and lime plaster lend the façade a distressed, earthy character, further accentuated by wood-slat windows and the lattice-style wooden door. The interplay of light and shadow is central to the spatial experience, with interiors by Essajees Atelier complementing the architectural language through custom bamboo lighting that casts a warm, organic glow. Departing from the earlier low-light environs of bars, the designers envisioned an inviting, light-filled environment with the bar on the fourth floor evoking a woodsy Zen aesthetic. While the client initially sought a Goa beach shack vibe, the concept evolved into a refined, minimalist Indo-Japanese blend that seamlessly connects inside and outside, embracing the rockface and lush landscaping, a testament to the ancient and the future. One8 Commune, Noida Architect: Sanjana Singh With the shout-out 'Noida is officially Kohlified!' on Instagram, one8 Commune Noida officially opened its doors in November 2024. Part of the growing chain of resto-bars by Virat Kohli, it's named after his jersey number and built around the ethos of 'artful living, soulful dining'. This outpost designed by Saaz Designs Studio continues the brand's narrative of community and inclusivity — welcoming families, couples, and corporate diners alike for shared experiences of leisurely fine dining. Spread across 5,817 with seating for 165, the venue draws on the relaxed sophistication of Mexican Tulum lounges and global cafés. The bohemian chic aesthetic comes alive in an eclectic yet elegant blend of wood, rattan, and linen in warm, earthy tones. Layered lighting — from sculptural pendants to intimate spotlights — enhances the ambience across the venue's zoned layout: a central dining area, vibrant bar and lounge, alfresco patio, and private dining room. Speaking on the broader evolution of resto-bars, Sanjana Singh, founder and principal architect at Saaz, notes: 'Open bar concepts, curated bottle displays, and immersive mixology stations are now focal points celebrating the craft. Evolving norms around drinking have enabled architects to design spaces that foster openness, interaction, and elevated leisure without stigma.' This shift informs Singh's creative approach to lighting and spatial design — emphasizing transparency, mood-setting, and visual storytelling. The bar isn't tucked away; it's lit to invite curiosity. Pendant lamps become art. A mosaic on the floor spells out 'Communing', echoing Kohli's vision for food and drink as immersive, thematic experiences — where ambience is as much a part of the menu as the cuisine or cocktails. Paradox, Mumbai Designer: Ashiesh Shah Commissioned by restaurateur Aditya Dugar, Bar Paradox in Mumbai's Shakti Mills unfolds as a multi-layered narrative across a compact 2,500 sq. ft. vertically-defined space across two levels. In a city beloved for cinema, designer Ashiesh Shah has visualised a space of drama, right from the narrow entrance door that surprises you with a double-height volume 'like stepping into an old elevator'. Dugar's brief to create an immersive experience, more than just a bar, which spoke with nostalgia to reflect both memory and modernity sparked it off. Shah elaborates, 'He wanted a space that felt intimate yet cinematic, luxurious but not loud — a place that celebrated craft, storytelling, and personal history. It wasn't just about designing a bar, it was about creating a narrative that people could walk into.' Paradox plays with contrasts — old and new, nostalgic and contemporary, intimate and dramatic. Spatial treatments for zones — the vitrines, the mezzanine, the formal dining room and the fumoir (salon) — unfold as distinct narratives. Shah navigates the challenges of low ceilings, awkward beams and low light, turning them into opportunities. 'You're constantly discovering whether it's a Chamba Rumal (a form of embroidery), a Dhokra fish in the bathroom, or a bar that feels like a tent on a midnight safari.' Collaborating closely with Peter d'Ascoli, a common love for textiles and storytelling came to fruition in the Fumoir, as Shah describes, 'something that felt both royal and secretive'. The bar on the upper level has a counter of black marble with brass inlay and the front face finished in walnut burl. A levitating Dhokra egg sculpture suspended in the double-height volume acts as a spiritual and visual anchor, capturing the soul of the space. 2024-25's winning features Embracing nature and bringing inside and outside closer Warm and light-filled over dark shady interiors Minimalist yet unique experiential themes merging global and Indian Large bars that welcome family and community settings Exclusive club-style bars for regulars creating known community

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