Latest news with #JaneGrigson
New York Times
21-06-2025
- General
- New York Times
Summer Is for Strawberry Shortcake
Not that anybody asked, or that it's a competition in any way, but I think the best summer dessert is strawberry shortcake. I do wait all year for ice cream cones and stone fruit pies, and I'm pretty sure I'm contractually obligated to nod to our plum torte. But the heart wants what it wants, and mine always wants strawberry shortcake. The strawberry shortcakes I grew up with were built on Bisquick and Cool Whip, and I stand by that iteration. (I actually prefer Cool Whip to real whipped cream here, which might lose me some of your trust, but again, the heart, its wants, etc.) But when I have friends to feed, or some really nice berries I want to do right by, I pull out this five-star recipe from 'Jane Grigson's Fruit Book,' adapted by Nancy Harmon Jenkins. The recipe isn't fussy at all; it's an easy mix of butter, flour, sugar, baking powder, heavy cream and a bit of salt, which neatly come together and bake in the time it takes your strawberries to macerate. And while it calls for a round cutter to make neat little circular shortcakes, know that I've never once used one and instead just eyeball and pat my dough into lovable, if uneven, little rounds. Warm, buttery biscuits; strawberries swimming in ruby juice; cold pillows of whipped cream: Happy summer. Featured Recipe View Recipe → Want all of The Times? Subscribe.
Irish Examiner
21-06-2025
- General
- Irish Examiner
Darina Allen: It's time to give gooseberries and elderflowers their kitchen spotlight
Quick, the 'catch it if you can' gooseberry and elderflower season is here, but it'll be gone in a flash. I'm sure you've noticed the fluffy white blossoms on the elder trees, not just in the hedgerows around the countryside, but there are plenty in the cities too. Elder is one of our native Irish trees. The flowers have a musky smell which isn't exactly enticing, so some think it's reminiscent of cat urine. But don't let that put you off, both the flavour and aroma are transformed to a wonderfully muscat richness during cooking. Furthermore, the combination of green gooseberry and elderflowers is a marriage made in heaven. Nature has cleverly arranged for the gooseberry and elderflower to be in season at the same time. Wonder who first discovered the combination? I first read about this magical combo of flavours in the late Jane Grigson's Good Things, one of my most treasured cookbooks, the fourth edition has just been republished by Grub Street, bang on time for the gooseberry season. Jane devoted a whole chapter in Good Things to gooseberries. I was thrilled when it landed on my desk a few weeks ago, it brought childhood memories flooding back of picking the green gooseberries off the prickly branches with the promise of gooseberry pie for supper. Something I am perfectly happy to do because the reward is so delicious. However, a few years ago, one of the gardeners showed me how to strip the berries from the bush without getting scratched, so here's the tip: cup your hand over the leaves on the branch close to the main stem, then pull your hand firmly towards you. The leaves cover the thorns, protecting your hands. Otherwise, you'll need to wear a leather glove to protect your hand from the spikes, a much slower method. You'll need to top and tail each gooseberry before cooking. A zen activity provided you're not in a hurry – lean into it and enjoy. At present, gooseberries are hard and green, the recent rain helped them to swell on the bushes, but they are still super tart. They will soften and ripen to a rich red colour later in the summer. Certainly not for nibbling raw but perfect for tarts, compotes, crumbles, jellies, fools and fritters. By the way, gooseberries freeze brilliantly. Just fill them into strong Ziploc plastic bags, they won't adhere to each other and are easy to top and tail while frozen. For best results, use within 6 months. Gooseberries are also super nutritious Elderflowers too, are not just a pretty flower, they have many essential vitamins, including vitamins E, B1, B2, and B3 complex and a little vitamin C. They're known for their anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and antioxidant properties. All very important. Later in the year, elderberries have a whole other set of nutrients and a much higher vitamin C content to help protect against winter colds and flu. The substantial amount of fibre helps to prevent constipation but they're not around until autumn so let's enjoy the elderflowers and gooseberries while they last. Roast Pork with Crackling and Green Gooseberry Sauce recipe by:Darina Allen You will need to order the joint ahead to ensure that the rind is still on – no rind means no crackling! Servings 8 Course Main Ingredients For the pork: 2.25kg loin of organic free-range pork with the skin rind intact coarse salt or Maldon sea salt 2 tbsp chopped herbs (parsley, thyme, chives, marjoram, savoury, perhaps very little sage or rosemary) salt and freshly ground pepper For the sauce: 275g fresh green gooseberries stock syrup to cover - 110ml water, 75g sugar – 175ml approximately a knob of butter (optional) Method For the pork: Preheat the oven to 190°C/Gas Mark 5. Score the skin at 5mm intervals running with the grain – let your butcher do this if possible because the skin, particularly of free-range pork, can be quite tough. This is to give you really good crackling and make it easier to carve later. Dry brine the pork. Put the pork skin-side down on a chopping board, season well with crunchy sea salt and black pepper and sprinkle with freshly chopped herbs. Allow to dry brine for several hours or overnight. Dab off with kitchen paper. Roll the joint tightly and secure with a slipknot, then repeat at the other end of the loin. Work your way towards the centre, tying the joint at about 4cm intervals. Sprinkle some salt over the rind and roast the joint on a wire rack in a roasting tin. Allow 25-28 minutes per 450g. Baste here and there with the rendered pork fat. While the meat is in the oven, follow the recipe to make the gooseberry sauce. Just before the end of the cooking time, remove the pork to another roasting tin. Increase the oven temperature to 230°C/Gas Mark 8 and return the joint to the oven to further crisp the crackling. When the joint is cooked the juices should run clear. Put the pork onto a hot carving dish and leave it to rest for 10-15 minutes in a low oven before carving. Serve two slices of pork per person with some gooseberry sauce and garnish with rocket. Rustic roast potatoes and a seasonal green salad would also be great. For the sauce: Dissolve the sugar in the water and boil together for 2 minutes. Store in a covered jar in the refrigerator until needed. Top and tail the gooseberries, put into a stainless steel saucepan, barely cover with stock syrup, bring to the boil and simmer until the fruit bursts. Taste. Stir in a small knob of butter if you like but it is very good without it. JR Ryall's Green Gooseberry Tartlets recipe by:Darina Allen This is a terrific recipe to have up your sleeve. These tartlets are ideal to serve after a simple lunch or even a formal dinner. Servings 30 Course Dessert Ingredients 1 quantity Cream Pastry (see below), chilled flour, for dusting 700g green gooseberries, topped and tailed 220-290g caster sugar softly whipped cream, to serve For the pastry: 110g plain flour 110g cold salted butter, cut into 5mm cubes 150ml cold fresh cream Method For the pastry: Place the flour into the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and then add the butter. With the mixer on low speed, rub the butter into the flour. Keep an eye on the mixture as it is being worked by the paddle. If overworked, the mixture will form a shortbread-like ball! Before this happens, when the butter and flour are on the cusp of coming together, pour in all of the cold cream and continue to mix on a low speed until a smooth pastry forms, about 1 minute. Wrap the pastry with baking paper and place in the refrigerator to chill overnight. Always roll cream pastry straight from the fridge. If the pastry comes to room temperature it will be too soft to handle! For tartlets: Place the cold pastry on a generously floured work surface. Sprinkle flour over the top and roll to a thickness of 3mm, using a rolling pin. Cut the pastry into disks using a 7.5cm round cutter. Transfer the disks of pastry to a shallow, flat-bottom bun (muffin) pan, lining each well with a circle. Place the lined pan in the refrigerator to rest for 15 minutes. Shake excess flour from the pastry scraps, gather them together, wrap in baking paper and place in the refrigerator. The scraps can be re-rolled again when they are properly chilled and used to make another batch of tartlets. Cut the gooseberries in half and arrange them cut side up on top of the pastry. It takes 7-8 halves to fill each tartlet depending on the size of the berries. Sprinkle a scant teaspoon of the sugar over the berries in each tartlet and bake straight away for about 20 minutes, until the sugar begins to caramelise and the pastry is a deep golden colour. While the tartlets are baking, line a heatproof tray with parchment paper and sprinkle a thin layer of sugar over the paper. Remove the tartlets from the oven and transfer them from the bun pan to the sugared baking paper while still hot. Arrange on a pretty plate and serve warm with softly whipped cream. From Ballymaloe Desserts by JR Ryall published by Phaidon Elderflower Fritters recipe by:Darina Allen These are super easy to make, very crispy and once you've tasted one, you won't be able to stop! Serve these straight away with delicious elderflower cream. Servings 4 Preparation Time 10 mins Cooking Time 10 mins Total Time 20 mins Course Dessert Ingredients For the fritters: 110g plain flour pinch of salt 1 organic egg 150ml lukewarm water 8-12 elderflower heads caster sugar sunflower oil for frying For the cream: 300ml cream 1-2 tablespoons elderflower cordial Method Sieve the flour and salt into a bowl. Make a well in the centre and drop in the egg. Using a whisk, bring in the flour gradually from the edges, slowly adding in the water at the same time. Heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer to 180°C. Hold the flowers by the stalks and dip into the batter (add a little more water or milk if the batter is too thick). Fry until golden brown in the hot oil. Drain on kitchen paper, toss in caster sugar and serve immediately with elderflower cream. For the cream: To make simply add the elderflower cordial to the cream and whisk lightly. This should be very softly whipped. Seasonal Journal Common Knowledge – Introductory to Fermentation on June 28 This one-day course takes place at the Common Knowledge Centre in Kilfenora, Co. Clare. Enter the realm of plant and fungi-based knowledge to explore the ecology of microbes, engage in discussions on how to reduce food waste, incorporate food medicine, decolonise our food-ways, as well as take home new skills and ferments to steward and share. How to preserve and transform fresh vegetables How ferments play a role in a healthy gut biome and nutrition The science behind fermentation The diverse cultural practices and lifeways that inform contemporary fermentation — to give you a foundation rooted in historical, cultural, and practical methods.
The Guardian
02-04-2025
- General
- The Guardian
How to cook the perfect roast whole new potatoes – recipe
When I pitched the idea for today's column, my editor's response was underwhelming to say the least. 'Is that even a recipe?' he asked, which is exactly the attitude that inspired me in the first place. Often the simplest dishes feel in the least need of an actual recipe, yet surely I can't be alone in thinking that the leathery, greasy roast new potatoes that turn up so often on tables at this time of year show some room for improvement. I used to be of Jane Grigson's opinion that 'new potatoes should either be steamed or put into boiling water with sprigs of mint' – after all, they're so good, and their season so short, from April to August, why meddle with perfection? But, having recently enjoyed crisp-skinned, buttery- fleshed beauties from a restaurant oven, I'd like to add them to my repertoire, too. While anyone can roast a potato, doing it proper justice clearly requires a little more thought. New potatoes are, as the name suggests, the first of the early potatoes to crop each year – the ones with the thin, papery skins that can be rubbed off with a fingernail. The first and smallest of these are, I think, still better steamed and buttered or oiled; there's not really enough skin on them to crisp, but the slightly larger, more robust ones that follow are admirably suited to this endeavour, which seems only to intensify their slightly nutty flavour. Though the term 'new' refers only to freshly dug potatoes of any early variety, those sold as such in this country tend also to be waxy, with a high moisture and a low starch content. Their dense, smooth flesh is ideal for salads and boiling, because it retains its shape after cooking, but they're no good for fluffy mash or baked potatoes. Jersey royals tend to be the earliest in the shops each year, thanks to the island's milder climate, but you can use anything that's labelled salad potatoes – anya, la ratte, charlotte, epicure – for the recipe below. Don't bother to peel them (if they're really fresh, they should come unwashed, and you can just rinse off the dirt and rub off any sorry-looking bits of skin); not only will the skin crisp up pleasingly, but I think it contains much of the tuber's flavour (in this, and perhaps this only, I dare to disagree with the great Simon Hopkinson, who writes in Week In Week Out, 'there truly is nothing worse than a new potato cooked with its skin intact. Just go away all of you who say: 'but all the goodness and vitamins of a potato lie just beneath its skin!' This does not mean you have to leave it there to get to it'). Do, however, make sure they're all roughly the same size, because that will ensure they cook evenly. (Cutting a few in half is fine, if necessary, but I prefer to leave them whole – they look prettier, and I think the texture is better, especially if you're going to boil them.) Most recipes I try call for the potatoes to be pre-cooked to some degree, much as one would for ordinary roast potatoes. J Kenji López-Alt, Mary Cadogan and Nigel Slater all boil theirs: López-Alt for five minutes (but from cold) until 'the exteriors are tender', Cadogan for 10, which counts as a kind of par-boil, and Slater 'until tender' all the way through. López-Alt writes on Serious Eats: 'Papery crusts occur when the layer of gelatinised starches that crisp up on the exterior of the potato isn't thick enough. As the potato comes out of the oven and sits, steam from its core penetrates the crust, softening it from the inside out. Parboiling the potatoes will help build up this layer of starch.' Nigella Lawson steams hers until tender instead, which she suggests should take 20-30 minutes, though I find the baby new potatoes she specifies are done in half that time. They also taste more satisfyingly potatoey than the boiled versions, something I put down to the fact that they're lost none of their flavour to the water. Delia Smith and David Tanis, meanwhile, both roast their potatoes from raw, though Smith marinates them in oil, vinegar and aromatics for a couple of hours beforehand. On balance, I agree with Slater that 'they need a few minutes in boiling water before they hit the oven if they are not to toughen as they roast' – my testers and I find Smith's spuds chewy rather than crisp (no good can surely come of contradicting two of my culinary heroes in one column, but I'm duty bound to report my findings). Tanis's are much better, for reasons I shall go into later, but for a simple roast spud, pre-cooking seems the safest bet. López-Alt, like Smith, adds vinegar, in his case to the water when boiling, to 'allow the starch to gelatinise while keeping the potatoes relatively firm and intact', on the basis that 'pectin, the glue that holds vegetable cells together, doesn't break down very readily in acidic environments'. While I'm sure he's right, the likelihood of potatoes breaking down after five minutes in boiling water feels vanishingly slim – and, in any case, I'm going to steam mine. (If this is impractical, put them in a pan of cold, salted water and boil until just tender instead.) López-Alt adopts a technique familiar to me from standard roast potatoes, treating the parboiled spuds a bit rough by 'bashing them around a bit until their exteriors are coated in a film of bashed-up potato bits [which] allows you to crisp up not just the cut surfaces, but the skins as well'. Leaving aside the fact that after just five minutes of boiling, I have to shake that pan like a woman possessed to have any effect on its occupants, I find a simpler, and more effective, method is simply to crush each potato lightly, as Cadogan, Lawson and Slater recommend, 'to break the skin and flesh a little in order to allow the oil to penetrate and the potato to crisp', to quote the last in Tender. Because they all react slightly differently to being squashed, this produces a pleasing variety of shapes to crisp up in as many different ways, from crunchy crags of flesh to thin, almost potato crisp-like shards of skin. Plus, tiny squashed potatoes also look rather comical to my mind. Cadogan roasts the potatoes at 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6 for 20 minutes, and Slater for twice that time, while Lawson cranks up the oven by fully 20 degrees and sits them in the middle for half an hour. López-Alt and Smith, mavericks both, turn up the oven to 260C, or 'the highest setting' (which, coincidentally, is 260C), and bake them, in Lopez-Alt's case, for 55 minutes, though I have to whip mine out after half an hour, because they're already bordering on the burnt. They have a decent crunchy crust, as promised, but for me it's too thick and dominant in flavour, in marked contrast with those baked at a lower temperature, which have a more delicate, shattering crispness and still taste predominantly of potato flesh, rather than its sweet, browned skin. A more moderate heat allows them time to acquire a rich, golden tan without drying out. Tanis isn't seeking crispness with his 'steam-roasted' new potatoes for the New York Times, which are baked in a greaseproof paper parcel with aromatics, making them deliciously soft and rich in flavour – a slightly more luxe take on the standard steamed spud that would be perfect for a dinner party, perhaps paired with poached fish or asparagus. I've eschewed any extras that might overpower the subtle flavour of the main ingredient, but as well as using different fats for different effects, you might like to bake your potatoes with chopped rosemary (Slater), smoked paprika (Cadogan for BBC Good Food) or garlic, rosemary, sage and thyme (Smith and Tanis). López-Alt adds shallots towards the end of the cooking, then, after they come out of the oven, sloshes it all with oil, garlic, chives, parsley and lemon zest. Meanwhile, Lawson finishes hers with a 'wincing hit' of vinegar, which cuts through the creamy texture of the potatoes and oil beautifully. Personally, however, I think they're delicious just as they are – these are lucky to make it to the table in my house. (The problem with very simple recipes such as this is that there often aren't many variables, so I must acknowledge that my perfect version is very similar to Nigella Lawson's version in At My Table, but with a slightly shorter cooking time. After all, if it ain't broke …) Prep 5 min Cook 45 min Serves 2-4 500g small new potatoes 1-2 tbsp olive oil, or neutral oil or animal fatSalt Try to find potatoes that are all roughly the same size, so you can keep all their skins intact while steaming; if any really are whoppers, though, then cut them in half. Steam until just tender all the way through, or about 15 minutes for baby potatoes. (Alternatively, put the potatoes in a pan just large enough to hold them all, cover with cold water, salt well, bring to a boil, then simmer until just cooked through. Drain and return to the hot pan to steam-dry before roasting.) Meanwhile, heat the oven and a roasting tin, filled with only just enough oil to coat the base (how much will, of course, depend on the size of your tin), to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Put the steamed potatoes on a board and lightly crush each one with a fork, spoon or potato masher, but only just so you hear the skins split, and not so hard that they break apart (though, if a few do, such is life). Remove the hot tin from the oven. If you can, set it on a low heat on the hob to keep the fat warm while you roll each potato in turn in the hot oil to coat. Spread out the potatoes as much as possible, then season generously with salt. Roast for 20 minutes, or until richly golden brown underneath (larger potatoes may take longer), then flip and bake for another 10 minutes. Serve immediately. New potatoes: is roasting sacrilege to you, or am I teaching my grandmother to suck eggs here? Do you prefer them dark and crunchy, or lightly golden and gently crisp? And what do you serve them with? (Plant-based suggestions particularly welcome!)
The Guardian
17-03-2025
- General
- The Guardian
Rachel Roddy's recipe for mushrooms stuffed with anchovies, breadcrumbs and herbs
Among the endless brilliant advice in Jane Grigson's The Mushroom Feast is a note about size that is really helpful. It is in relation to the cultivated mushrooms readily available in greengrocers and supermarkets, the controlled development of which she reveals to be as every bit as fascinating as the mysterious appearance of wild ones. Grigson reminds us that small button mushrooms are exactly that: small and immature. And, having just formed, they haven't had the chance to develop flavour, which is why it's advisable to buy medium-sized mushrooms or, even better, large, open or flat mushrooms that have been given the time to develop real flavour. 'Left undisturbed in mushroom caves,' Grigson notes, 'cultivated mushrooms can swell to a pound in weight and develop a flavour equal to field mushrooms.' While out mushroom hunting in the velvet cool of my local supermarket the other day, I was delighted to come across not just one, but several packets of open-faced mushrooms with white caps and delicate brown gills. I might be a novice, but I do know to move slowly and quietly when mushrooms appear, so as not to draw attention, or to give away the spot to other mushroom hunters. Keeping my eyes low, I picked the packets off the shelf, put them in my basket, paid and walked home, making sure to disturb as few leaves as possible. I suspect a neighbour might have been watching me. Another point Grigson makes is how helpful it is to recognise the role shallots and garlic stewed in butter play in bringing out the flavour of cultivated mushrooms, making them taste like mushrooms, and the kitchen smell good. The Mushroom Feast has also provided this week's recipe for funghi ripieni (stuffed mushrooms), which is adapted from Ada Boni's bible of Italian cookery, Il Talismano della Felicità. Like so many stuffed mushroom recipes, it utilises the finely diced stalks in the stuffing, along with onion, garlic, butter, a few minced anchovies, plenty of parsley, soft breadcrumbs and egg, which is vital for binding and also makes the stuffing slightly puffy. If you are lucky enough to find 12 fat-stemmed and bulbous ceps under a tree, they are ideal here; otherwise, eight large or 12 medium flat mushrooms will work almost as well. While stuffed mushrooms can be eaten at room temperature – or cold, even – they are best when served piping hot, or at least warm enough that the filling is still tender and the mushroom caps velvety and glistening with melted butter. They can be served as an accompaniment to meat or fish, but they are also chief characters that make a satisfying meal with salad alongside – my choice would be the soft middle leaves of a butterhead lettuce dressed with olive oil, red-wine vinegar and mustard. Alternatively, and based on Grigson's observation of how surprisingly compatible mushroom and cucumber are, you could pair the hot stuffed mushrooms with a cold cucumber, dill and soured cream salad. Serves 4 12 medium-sized or 8 large flat mushroomsA knob of butter, plus extra for greasing and dotting 3 tbsp olive oil2 shallots or 1 small onion, peeled and finely diced1 garlic clove, peeled and minced4 anchovy fillets in oil, drained and minced1 heaped tbsp minced parsley50g soft white breadcrumbs1 egg, lightly beaten1 tbsp fine, dry breadcrumbs Remove the mushroom stalks and chop them very finely; set the caps aside. In a frying pan, melt the butter and olive oil, then gently stew the shallot/onion and garlic until translucent. Add the mushroom stalks and cook, stirring, for about five minutes. Season then add the anchovies and parsley, cook for a minute more, then pull the pan off the heat and stir in the breadcrumbs and beaten egg. Arrange the mushrooms cap side down in a well-buttered oven dish, then divide the stuffing between the undersides, pressing it down so it fills evenly. Sprinkle the stuffing with the dry breadcrumbs and put a dot of butter on each mushroom. Bake in a fairly hot oven – about 190C (170C fan)/375F/gas 5 – for 15-20 minutes, or until the filling is firm and sizzling gently.
