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Los Angeles Times
4 days ago
- Los Angeles Times
Nara: Step Into Ancient Japan, Where Deer Roam Free
Step back in time to Nara, Japan's captivating first permanent capital (710-794 CE). Just a short train ride from Kyoto or Osaka, this serene city offers a unique blend of ancient history and natural beauty, making it a must-visit for anyone seeking a glimpse into Japan's foundations. Nara preserves its legacy with remarkable integrity, boasting a whopping eight UNESCO World Heritage sites, and is famously home to over a thousand sacred, free-roaming deer. Nara's establishment as the capital in 710 CE marked a pivotal moment, laying the groundwork for Japan's enduring culture. Modeled after China's Tang dynasty capital, its meticulously planned grid layout reflected a period of centralized government and immense cultural growth. This era was a crucible for early Japanese Buddhist art, literature, and political structures. The heart of the city is Nara Park, where over a thousand wild deer, believed to be messengers of the gods, roam freely and even bow for treats – you can even buy special crackers! Within the park stands Todaiji Temple, home to the colossal Great Buddha (Daibutsu). This 15-meter bronze statue is housed inside the Daibutsuden, the world's largest wooden building – a truly awe-inspiring sight that reflects the ambition of 8th-century Japan. Nearby, Kasuga Taisha Shrine is Nara's celebrated Shinto shrine, known for its thousands of stone and bronze lanterns that line its paths and illuminate the grounds, especially during the special festivals in February and August. Founded by the powerful Fujiwara clan, it highlights the intertwining of politics and religion. Don't miss Kofuku-ji Temple, distinguished by its towering five-story pagoda, a long-standing symbol of Nara and a key institution of the Fujiwara dynasty. Explore Naramachi, the old merchant district, with its preserved Edo-era buildings, quaint shops and local eateries. It's perfect for sampling kakinoha sushi (sushi wrapped in persimmon leaves) and finding unique souvenirs. Nara offers a unique journey into Japan's ancient soul, providing tangible connections to its formative past amid charming, free-roaming deer. It's an unforgettable destination where history truly comes alive.
Yahoo
28-03-2025
- Yahoo
Some of the nicest gardens in Tokyo are hidden behind hotels
When searching for urban hotels, 'includes garden' is not one of the typical search attributes. After all, when that city happens to be Tokyo, by many accounts the world's most populous metropolitan area, a hotel with a garden seems impossible to find. However, you'll be pleased to know there are a number of hotels that come with their own green spaces, some of which date back hundreds of years. Closest metro station: Gotanda Even back in the Edo period (1603CE-1867CE), the hillside adjoining present-day Tokyo Marriott Hotel was popular for its sakura, or cherry blossoms. Perhaps as one consequence of that, Iemitsu Tokugawa, the third shogun of the ruling Tokugawa dynasty, had a palace built there in 1636. At the time, the neighborhood (in today's Shinagawa ward) was developing as an important rest stop along the ancient Tokaido trade route between the former imperial capital Kyoto and Edo (what came to be Tokyo). Whereas Shinagawa had become a bustling port, famous for boating and clam-digging at low-tide, Tokugawa shogun had availed of the new palace, called Shinagawa Goten, as a resting place, and for falconry. As a tribute to its regal past, the park was named Gotenyama, ('Mt. Goten'). Highlights include maple and gingko trees best seen during the autumn, rare (for Tokyo) white dandelion between March and May, and of course, cherry blossoms in early spring. Although there's no direct access through the hotel, Gotenyama Garden is right behind it. The garden is free to access, and has a nice modernist waterfall atop which one can sit on a rare Tokyo bench. Closest metro station: Takanawadai Teiji Kusuoka was a master gardener who made two lofty contributions to the Tokyo landscape. The first involved Kusuoka helping to create the new Imperial Palace gardens in the aftermath of World War II. Owing to his expertise, Kusuoka was then hired to plan and create a garden abutting a cluster of hotels close to Shinagawa Station. Inaugurated in 1971, the Japanese Garden, or sometimes the Prince Hotel Japanese Garden, is surrounded by four properties of the Prince Hotels & Resorts Group — Grand Prince Hotel Takanawa + the ryokan within Takanawa Hanakohro, The Prince Sakura Tower Tokyo, and the Grand Prince Hotel Shin Takanawa. Some guest rooms in each of the hotels offer garden views. The garden is free to access, and all hotels have direct access to it. History enthusiasts will appreciate that this Japanese garden isn't merely known for its 17 varieties of cherry trees, 16 types of seasonal flowers, and central pond where strollers can feed the koi, or carp. There's a pagoda dedicated to Kannon, the Japanese Buddhist goddess of mercy, which possibly dates back as far as the mid-12th century. Additionally, a 17th century bell tower from the bygone capital of Nara, and a temple gate with Edo-era stone lanterns also augment the pleasant stroll through an otherwise heavily urban neighborhood. As a bonus, when the weather cooperates, visit during the nighttime to appreciate the symmetry of the take-akari, or bamboo lights, which add an ethereal touch to the walkways. (Related: Everything you should know before visiting Japan) Closest metro station: Edogawabashi As far back as the 14th century, the lush backyard of the contemporary Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo was called Tsubakiyama, or 'Camellia Mountain.' It is no coincidence that the hotel's Japanese name commemorates this history; the phrase translates as 'villa on Mt. Camellia.' Occupying the site of the current Hotel Chinzanso, the original villa retreat was built in the early Edo period. Then, in 1878, Aritomo Yamagata, future Japanese prime minister and patron of the arts, built the first formal garden on the grounds to accompany his mansion. After having witnessed widespread destruction during World War II, Eiichi Ogawa, a prominent businessman, planted more than 10,000 trees as an homage to Yamagata's legacy. Chinzanso opened as a garden restaurant in 1952, and has been a highly sought-after wedding and photography venue since. A number of guest rooms also offer views of the garden. Chinzanso Garden is free to access; one must enter through through hotel. Although there are 20 varieties of cherry trees, the camellia, the garden's main event, typically bloom between February and April. Fun fact: to simulate unkai, or a sea of clouds, mist is periodically released in the garden, adding a mysterious feel to an already photogenic setting. Closest metro station: Nagatacho Starting with the rule of daimyo (feudal lord) Kato Kiyomasa in the late 16th century, a significant plot of trees had been present in the precinct of the modern Hotel New Otani Tokyo. Eventually, the plot was given to the influential Ii clan, who resided there until the end of the Edo era. After, the land was inherited by the Fushimi no Miya imperial kinfolk, who added pine and camphor trees into the mix. Scuttling their plans to sell the property to foreigners after World War II, Yonetaro Otani, sumo wrestler-turned-hotelier, established residency there. At the request of the Japanese government, Otani devised the Hotel New Otani in 1964 — with the garden as its backdrop — to house Olympians for the city's first Olympic games. (Related: 10 of the best hotels in Tokyo) The Hotel New Otani Japanese Garden is free to access, and entry is only through the hotel. It's an excellent place to spend a couple of hours, given its impressive karesansui (rock gardens), tree fossils, strikingly vermillion Taiko Bridge, active koi pond, and vast waterfall that spans much of the park. Two of the garden's oldest living occupants are a Japanese nutmeg tree, and a Yew Plum pine; it is said that they both date to the late 18th century. The wabisabi (an aesthetic concept based on imperfection and impermanence) gets punctuated by seasonal nighttime lighting themes; for example, expect orange, red, and yellow colors during the fall, while white and pink signify early spring. Closest metro station: Suidobashi Although the more formal word for garden in Japanese is teien, another way to describe them is niwa. Employing the latter in both phrase and variety, the eponymous Hotel Niwa Tokyo is one of the newer properties on this list, having only opened in May 2009. In spite of being just a few minutes' walk from Tokyo Dome City, a theme park, shopping, and stadium complex, Hotel Niwa Tokyo has four different types of small gardens that guests can enjoy. The courtyard, replete with a babbling brook and a small grove, greets all visitors outside of the entrance. The Zen terrace highlights karesansui, better known as a rock garden, and the lounge terrace offers lots of natural light, and a place to sip freshly brewed matcha or coffee. Finally, the rooftop terrace is best known as a hot spot for yoga and meditation. Visitors are excited to learn that there's an actual secret garden at the top of the hotel. Once warmer weather arrives, expect to try herbs and vegetables grown on-site, as well as some outstanding honey produced by bees living in the apiary. To fully appreciate each of Hotel Niwa's gardens, one must be a guest. However, anyone can partake in the outdoor lobby-level garden and waterway leading to Yukuri, the property's Japanese restaurant. (Related: A culinary guide to Tokyo) Although originally from the NYC area, Jonathan DeLise has also lived throughout East Asia, and for spells in Jeddah, and Orizaba, Mexico. As a freelance writer, he has covered a range of history, travel, and food topics. One of his hobbies is studying languages, so as to better decipher menus; in fact, a dream title of his is "Fluent Eater." His portfolio can be found here, and his YouTube is @findingfoodfluency.


National Geographic
28-03-2025
- National Geographic
Some of the nicest gardens in Tokyo are hidden behind hotels
When searching for urban hotels, 'includes garden' is not one of the typical search attributes. After all, when that city happens to be Tokyo, by many accounts the world's most populous metropolitan area, a hotel with a garden seems impossible to find. However, you'll be pleased to know there are a number of hotels that come with their own green spaces, some of which date back hundreds of years. 1. Popular for cherry blossoms since the Edo period Closest metro station: Gotanda Even back in the Edo period (1603CE-1867CE), the hillside adjoining present-day Tokyo Marriott Hotel was popular for its sakura, or cherry blossoms. Perhaps as one consequence of that, Iemitsu Tokugawa, the third shogun of the ruling Tokugawa dynasty, had a palace built there in 1636. Gotenyama garden in Shinagawa, Tokyo, is popular for cherry blossoms every spring. Photograph By Shunskee.t, Getty Images At the time, the neighborhood (in today's Shinagawa ward) was developing as an important rest stop along the ancient Tokaido trade route between the former imperial capital Kyoto and Edo (what came to be Tokyo). Whereas Shinagawa had become a bustling port, famous for boating and clam-digging at low-tide, Tokugawa shogun had availed of the new palace, called Shinagawa Goten, as a resting place, and for falconry. As a tribute to its regal past, the park was named Gotenyama, ('Mt. Goten'). Highlights include maple and gingko trees best seen during the autumn, rare (for Tokyo) white dandelion between March and May, and of course, cherry blossoms in early spring. Although there's no direct access through the hotel, Gotenyama Garden is right behind it. The garden is free to access, and has a nice modernist waterfall atop which one can sit on a rare Tokyo bench. 2. Designed by the Imperial Palace's landscaper Closest metro station: Takanawadai Teiji Kusuoka was a master gardener who made two lofty contributions to the Tokyo landscape. The first involved Kusuoka helping to create the new Imperial Palace gardens in the aftermath of World War II. Owing to his expertise, Kusuoka was then hired to plan and create a garden abutting a cluster of hotels close to Shinagawa Station. Inaugurated in 1971, the Japanese Garden, or sometimes the Prince Hotel Japanese Garden, is surrounded by four properties of the Prince Hotels & Resorts Group — Grand Prince Hotel Takanawa + the ryokan within Takanawa Hanakohro, The Prince Sakura Tower Tokyo, and the Grand Prince Hotel Shin Takanawa. Some guest rooms in each of the hotels offer garden views. The garden is free to access, and all hotels have direct access to it. History enthusiasts will appreciate that this Japanese garden isn't merely known for its 17 varieties of cherry trees, 16 types of seasonal flowers, and central pond where strollers can feed the koi, or carp. There's a pagoda dedicated to Kannon, the Japanese Buddhist goddess of mercy, which possibly dates back as far as the mid-12th century. Additionally, a 17th century bell tower from the bygone capital of Nara, and a temple gate with Edo-era stone lanterns also augment the pleasant stroll through an otherwise heavily urban neighborhood. As a bonus, when the weather cooperates, visit during the nighttime to appreciate the symmetry of the take-akari, or bamboo lights, which add an ethereal touch to the walkways. (Related: Everything you should know before visiting Japan) 3. This garden is renowned for its camellias Closest metro station: Edogawabashi As far back as the 14th century, the lush backyard of the contemporary Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo was called Tsubakiyama, or 'Camellia Mountain.' It is no coincidence that the hotel's Japanese name commemorates this history; the phrase translates as 'villa on Mt. Camellia.' The grounds of Chinzanso are now a part of a large luxury hotel, but visitors are free to walk the grounds of the garden. Photograph By John S Lander/LightRocket via Getty Images Occupying the site of the current Hotel Chinzanso, the original villa retreat was built in the early Edo period. Then, in 1878, Aritomo Yamagata, future Japanese prime minister and patron of the arts, built the first formal garden on the grounds to accompany his mansion. After having witnessed widespread destruction during World War II, Eiichi Ogawa, a prominent businessman, planted more than 10,000 trees as an homage to Yamagata's legacy. Chinzanso opened as a garden restaurant in 1952, and has been a highly sought-after wedding and photography venue since. A number of guest rooms also offer views of the garden. Chinzanso Garden is free to access; one must enter through through hotel. Although there are 20 varieties of cherry trees, the camellia, the garden's main event, typically bloom between February and April. Fun fact: to simulate unkai, or a sea of clouds, mist is periodically released in the garden, adding a mysterious feel to an already photogenic setting. 4. This garden was the backdrop for the Olympics Closest metro station: Nagatacho Starting with the rule of daimyo (feudal lord) Kato Kiyomasa in the late 16th century, a significant plot of trees had been present in the precinct of the modern Hotel New Otani Tokyo. Eventually, the plot was given to the influential Ii clan, who resided there until the end of the Edo era. After, the land was inherited by the Fushimi no Miya imperial kinfolk, who added pine and camphor trees into the mix. Scuttling their plans to sell the property to foreigners after World War II, Yonetaro Otani, sumo wrestler-turned-hotelier, established residency there. At the request of the Japanese government, Otani devised the Hotel New Otani in 1964 — with the garden as its backdrop — to house Olympians for the city's first Olympic games. (Related: 10 of the best hotels in Tokyo) New Otani Hotel's garden is the perfect place to spend a few hours when you need a break from city life. Photograph By Trevor Chriss / Alamy The Hotel New Otani Japanese Garden is free to access, and entry is only through the hotel. It's an excellent place to spend a couple of hours, given its impressive karesansui (rock gardens), tree fossils, strikingly vermillion Taiko Bridge, active koi pond, and vast waterfall that spans much of the park. Two of the garden's oldest living occupants are a Japanese nutmeg tree, and a Yew Plum pine; it is said that they both date to the late 18th century. The wabisabi (an aesthetic concept based on imperfection and impermanence) gets punctuated by seasonal nighttime lighting themes; for example, expect orange, red, and yellow colors during the fall, while white and pink signify early spring. 5. This hotel has a hidden apiary on its roof Closest metro station: Suidobashi Although the more formal word for garden in Japanese is teien, another way to describe them is niwa. Employing the latter in both phrase and variety, the eponymous Hotel Niwa Tokyo is one of the newer properties on this list, having only opened in May 2009. In spite of being just a few minutes' walk from Tokyo Dome City, a theme park, shopping, and stadium complex, Hotel Niwa Tokyo has four different types of small gardens that guests can enjoy. The courtyard, replete with a babbling brook and a small grove, greets all visitors outside of the entrance. The Zen terrace highlights karesansui, better known as a rock garden, and the lounge terrace offers lots of natural light, and a place to sip freshly brewed matcha or coffee. Finally, the rooftop terrace is best known as a hot spot for yoga and meditation. Visitors are excited to learn that there's an actual secret garden at the top of the hotel. Once warmer weather arrives, expect to try herbs and vegetables grown on-site, as well as some outstanding honey produced by bees living in the apiary. To fully appreciate each of Hotel Niwa's gardens, one must be a guest. However, anyone can partake in the outdoor lobby-level garden and waterway leading to Yukuri, the property's Japanese restaurant. (Related: A culinary guide to Tokyo) Although originally from the NYC area, Jonathan DeLise has also lived throughout East Asia, and for spells in Jeddah, and Orizaba, Mexico. As a freelance writer, he has covered a range of history, travel, and food topics. One of his hobbies is studying languages, so as to better decipher menus; in fact, a dream title of his is "Fluent Eater." His portfolio can be found here , and his YouTube is @findingfoodfluency.


South China Morning Post
10-02-2025
- South China Morning Post
Holy places Christian, Buddhist, Jewish and Sikh inspire cookbook
American cook and food writer Jody Eddy's friendship with Shinobu Namae, the chef behind three-Michelin-star Tokyo restaurant L'Effervescence, was ultimately what gained her access to the kitchens at the revered Eihei-ji temple in Japan. Eihei-ji ('Temple of Eternal Peace') was founded in 1244 by the Japanese Buddhist monk Eihei Dogen after he returned from studying in China. He founded the Soto school of Zen Buddhism and made Eihei-ji its headquarters. The temple is hidden in cedar forests deep in the mountains of Fukui prefecture. Rarely, if ever, has anyone been allowed in to photograph the kitchens. But Namae wrote extensive letters in support of Eddy and her photographer Kristin Teig and their request to record the monks at work. Eventually, the temple's reluctance turned into an invitation to stay. Eddy arrived at Eihei-ji in the depths of winter, which she says was like a fairy tale. Photo: Kristin Teig Arriving in the depths of winter was like a fairy tale, says Eddy, who has captured the experience in her book Elysian Kitchens – Recipes Inspired by the Traditions and Tastes of the World's Sacred Spaces . 'Snow was whirling through the cedars and the Buddha statues were dusted in white. The stillness of the place was incredible,' she says.


The Guardian
31-01-2025
- The Guardian
‘We were inspired, recharged and nourished by nature': readers' favourite wellness trips
With Eryri national park (Snowdonia) on the doorstep and guided wild swims available, north Wales' Tawelu Retreats offers options to explore the outdoors or go full hibernation with the retreat's yoga classes and meditations, plus a sauna and hot tub. The chef cooked up filling, comforting veggie food and gorgeous chai and hot chocolate. Even getting lost running up the Welsh fells and nearly missing my hot shells massage didn't trouble my stress levels. It's women only, four days from £650. Laura King Staying at a shukubo (Buddhist temple guesthouse) in Koyasan, Japan, was calming yet insightful. Here we observed monastic life in beautiful, tranquil surroundings. We were served shojin ryori, traditional Japanese Buddhist meals that were vegetarian – dishes that were not only tasty but eye-catching, too. We meditated, learned origami and participated in a Goma fire ceremony. This early morning ritual is believed to have a powerful cleansing effect spiritually and psychologically. The ceremony was very emotive. We slept in a traditional Japanese room, simple but very comfortable. Overall, a great retreat in which to switch off and experience spiritual enlightenment as well as a new culture. Reshma Guardian Travel readers' tips Every week we ask our readers for recommendations from their travels. A selection of tips will be featured online and may appear in print. To enter the latest competition visit the readers' tips homepage - The Sharpham Trust, sitting above the beautiful River Dart in south Devon, is a mindfulness charity which holds retreats to promote the belief that we could all be showing more compassion towards each other, the planet and ourselves. Sharpham was a much-needed MOT on my zest for life after years of burnout. Saying no to people had felt impossible, and it had worn me down to exhaustion. Sharpham marked a dramatic shift to finding an inner peace that had hitherto eluded me. The prices are accessible, you're given your own room (a retreat rarity), and the food is wonderful. A truly beautiful experience. Liv Not far from Alicante and the brilliant Sierra Helada natural park is a wonderful wellness centre, La Crisalida Retreat. Mindfulness, yoga, workshops, meditation, guided walks. Too energetic? There is no pressure to join in. You can laze on your sun bed next to one of the pools, or walk into the village for a mooch around the market and an ice-cream on the stunning beach. You can arrive and leave any day and it is open all year. Shared and single rooms are available. Victoria Do you have an unhealthy relationship with your phone? Retreat like it's 1999! A luxuriously renovated 1872 vicarage, outside Sedbergh, Cumbria, is the perfect setting for a digital detox. A few days of self-care, self-love and no tech in sight. Meticulously curated days offer the right mix of activities and rest. Twice daily yoga sessions, guided walks, sound baths, stargazing around the fire pit, talking circles and shared freshly prepared meals around the dining table will wean you off doom scrolling. The small group of like-minded guests allows for great bonding and meaningful connections. The four-day detox retreat is from £ On a regenerative farm in Auchgoyle, Argyll and Bute, Wild Running and Wellness Retreats have curated an unforgettable experience. The trails were adventurous and exciting, leading us through ancient woodland, across beaches and over hills. The wildlife and landscape were further brought to life by Katharine and David's infectious passion for – and knowledge of – their local environment. Between runs, we were rejuvenated with delicious homecooked meals and snacks in the stunning farmhouse, and activities including yoga in the ecolodge, wild swimming, a wood-fired sauna, art class and coffee tasting. We left feeling inspired, recharged and fully nourished by Lloyd Sign up to The Traveller Get travel inspiration, featured trips and local tips for your next break, as well as the latest deals from Guardian Holidays after newsletter promotion My solo salmon fishing break last summer in Iceland was a perfect way to unwind after a stressful year at work followed by a tense divorce. The area was peaceful, quiet and beautiful – full of long days blessed with pale sunlight until dusk turned into dawn. Basing myself in the Mýrarkvísl River valley in the north of the country, all I needed was some warm pullovers and a couple of fishing rods. Days spent in nature with the cool waters trickling along, salmon and trout biting, and my fellow fishers encouraging me with some friendly advice. We even got together to barbecue dinners later on under the midnight You go to an Arvon retreat wondering if you'll write. You come home knowing you're a writer. During a week at the Clockhouse, in the Shropshire Hills, I took off my watch, put away my phone and spoke as many words to others in a week as I'd normally manage in 10 minutes at home. I slept when I was tired, I ate the organic, locally prepared meals only when I was hungry. For a week I lived in my head and in a world shared only by the characters of my novel. And I loved every moment. A four-day retreat costs from £660 at the Last June I walked the Dales Way (an 80-mile route from Ilkley to Bowness-on-Windermere) and I did it alone. For mindfulness, self regeneration and sheer pleasure, the walk through some of the UK's most stunning countryside and beside some wonderful flowing rivers was an experience I'll always treasure. I walked over five days, staying in some really quaint pubs in tranquil villages, averaging about 15 miles a day at a really steady pace. Accommodation cost about £500 for some great B& Thompson Sadhama retreat on the Hardwick Estate in the Thames valley north of Reading is the perfect getaway. There are a variety of events throughout the year. I attended Sweat and Serenity (£299, bring your own tent) in May last year and it changed my life for the better. The retreat included a sweat lodge cleansing ceremony, Siberian outdoor sauna, meditation, gong bath and morning swims in a clean stretch of the River Toros