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Telegraph
4 days ago
- Telegraph
This fairytale corner of Central Europe is perfect for a break in the great outdoors
There are more crystal-clear alpine lakes, rushing turquoise rivers, dramatic gorges and thundering waterfalls in northwest Slovenia than you can count. Surrounded by the high peaks of the Julian Alps, marking the border between Slovenia and Italy, this region offers every outdoor activity imaginable. With neighbouring Croatia, Austria and the Italian Dolomites already attracting the adventure set in droves, for those in search of adrenaline kicks, like me, it's an overlooked gem. Here's where to go and how to explore from my tour of four of the region's top spots. Lake Bled Europe's most picturesque lagoon The allure of world-famous Lake Bled, with its fairytale island, is easy to understand. The lake and Church of the Assumption on Bled Island have long been a place of pilgrimage, and, supposedly, ringing the bell in the church on the island will grant wishes. What to do The best way to reach the island is by catching one of the traditional pletna boats, operated by a select few families who have permission to row the vessels. Srečo Zupan built his by hand and rows using an ancient standing technique – once he retires, his sons will take up his mantle (€20 for adults; €10 for children; Alternatively, book a rowing session with an Olympian. I joined three-time Olympian Miha Pirih (from €240 per person; on a double scull out onto the lake. After a few false starts, and a lot of patient encouragement, we were flying along at a grand pace. Where to eat Garden Village, roughly a 10-minute walk from the southern shore of the lake, has outside tables near a swimming pond populated by 'singing' frogs. Where to stay In Bled, Vila Adora, on the south shore, is whimsically furnished with glamorous lake-view terraces; double rooms cost from €430, including breakfast. Hotel Starkl, also close to the south shore, has small but very well-appointed rooms; doubles from €206, including breakfast (two-night minimum stay). Lake Bohinj Slovenia's largest glacial lake Lake Bohinj, 30 minutes west of Bled, is known for its natural beauty and is one of my favourite places in Slovenia. It's a great starting point for hiking, and it's also possible to swim and canoe on the lake. What to do However, the best view of Bohinj is from above. As I flew high in a tandem paraglider (from €190; the water looked completely still, mirroring back the surrounding green forests and snowy mountain peaks. Where to eat Hisa Linhart, in the nearby village of Radovljica, is home to Michelin-star dining (five-course tasting menu, £75) Where to stay Luxurious Vila Muhr, close to the eastern shore of the lake in the village of Ribčev Laz, is a former royal hunting lodge and has suites from €950 in high season, including breakfast. Lake Zelenci A protected landscape Part of the Zelenci Nature Reserve, Lake Zelenci is a colourful lake that gleams neon-blue and lime-green under the sun. In a mesmerising sight, pressure from natural springs under the lakebed causes the water to bubble to the surface. Nearby, Lake Jasna, a serene artificial lake, was created in the Eighties for recreation – visitors can now enjoy well-maintained walking trails, fishing and a lakeside library. What to do From the nearby town of Kranjska Gora, an old railway line has been converted into a dedicated cycle path, which I used to access the nature reserve. Guided cycling trips including routes over the Italian border to see Laghi di Fusine (€120 half day/€200 full day, for up to eight people; Where to eat Oštarija restaurant in Kranjska Gora serves hearty hog roast and traditional Balkan slow-cooked dishes. Where to stay In the village of Gozd Martuljek, Hotel Triangel has comfortable rooms, a wellness centre and splendid views of Špik mountain; doubles from €325, including breakfast (self-catering apartments also available). Vila Paulina, in the centre of Kranjska Gora, offers apartments from €350, for four nights. The Triglav Lakes The Valley of the Seven Lakes The real jewel of this region is the Valley of the Seven Lakes, a pristine alpine valley known for its stunning natural beauty, botanical richness and a series of natural lakes. The valley's remote lagoons can only be visited on foot, by completing a challenging hike through the limestone landscape. What to do The hike through the valley was the highlight of my trip, and arguably is the most beautiful route in the Julian Alps. The best starting point is Planina Blato, near the village of Stara Fužina. To see all seven lakes in one day is a strenuous hike (12 hours) – instead, stay overnight and split the distance into two days. The Triglav lakes are protected, and swimming is not allowed in order to protect the fragile ecosystem. Guided tours with Mitja Sorn start from €550 in the high season for up to eight people ( Where to eat Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih (Triglav Lakes Lodge) serves traditional Slovenian food from mid-June to September. Try the ričet (barley stew) and the traditional Štruklji (dumplings); bring cash as huts often don't accept cards. Where to stay The Triglav Lakes Lodge also offers accommodation, but requires advanced booking; prices vary by accommodation type, starting from €36 per night in a dormitory room, excluding breakfast, from mid-June to September. How to get there British Airways, easyJet and RyanAir fly from London to Ljubljana airport, an hour's drive from Lake Bohinj or 30 minutes to Lake Bled.
The Guardian
5 days ago
- The Guardian
‘If you love adventure but not tourists': readers' favourite wild places in Europe
The Julian Alps are mostly in Slovenia, but I have gone on many trips to the little known Italian portion of this mountain range to visit old friends in the ski town Sella Nevea. The scenery is awesome: pointed white, limestone peaks above deep and mysterious pine-forested valleys. The books of mountaineer Julius Kugy romantically describe this large wilderness, the obscurity of which amazes me. Nature is abundant with various large mammals, bird life and flora. If you love alpine adventure but don't like tourists then seek it out, there's nobody there!Paul Stora Karlsö, off the west coast of Gotland, is one of the oldest nature reserves in the world and is a few hours' journey by train and ferry from Stockholm. It's a tiny, rugged limestone island, mostly just a high cliff with an alvar (grassy heath) plateau. There were lots of orchids and plenty of sea birds. Once sheltered from the wind, I found the fragrant air was incredible. I spent the night in a simple cabin and enjoyed a decent meal, but civilisation in the regular fashion was far away, and there was hardly any cell Guardian Travel readers' tips Every week we ask our readers for recommendations from their travels. A selection of tips will be featured online and may appear in print. To enter the latest competition visit the readers' tips homepage - Between Toulon and the Mediterranean, Hyères spreads across a series of headlands, salt flats and offshore islands. We based ourselves near the Giens peninsula, where the ancient pink salt marshes stretch out towards the sea, dotted with flamingos, herons and egrets. The coastal paths wind over rugged cliffs, with pine woods and scattered islands combining to create a setting of seabirds, wildflowers and open In the spring of 2023, my wife and I walked the 500-mile (805km) Camino de Santiago across northern Spain. The beaten track was busy, so we took every opportunity to deviate off it along alternative sections. Walking across the Meseta, the expansive, high central plateau famed for its isolation, we took the detour from Calzada del Coto to Mansilla de las Mulas along the Via Trajana, the old, cobbled Roman road. We were surrounded by birdsong, wildflowers and the ghosts of legionaries. Apart from when we stopped for a comfortable night and an immense breakfast at the Via Trajana hostel in Calzadilla de los Hermanillos, we only saw two other people in two days and 20 miles of The Carpathian forests of Romania, flanked by brooding mountains, are a brilliant place to lose yourself for a couple of weeks. On my hiking trip there last summer I spotted brown bears, wolves and lynx as I marched through valleys and woods. I came across medieval towns and villages that are rich in traditional folklore. One highlight was sampling local cheese and singing songs with villagers in the Barza valley. I was rewarded – or punished – for my musical efforts with a bumpy ride on a horse-drawn cart to the next village. Don't miss a walk up to Postăvarul peak (1,800 metres) for great views over the Thirty-five miles and three nights in mountain huts in the southern highlands of Iceland: the Laugavegur trail is a microcosm of the landscapes of that incredible country. Geothermal springs, high-altitude snowfields, multicoloured rhyolite mountains, black sand deserts and otherworldly moonscapes. Finally, the magical valley of Thórsmörk – Thor's Valley – amid birch woods enclosed by three glaciers. Staying in mountain huts means you'll feel part of a multicultural, international community of travellers, with the warmth and camaraderie this entails, with tales exchanged and memories made. Bill Duncan Sign up to The Traveller Get travel inspiration, featured trips and local tips for your next break, as well as the latest deals from Guardian Holidays after newsletter promotion Between the popular north coast of Sardinia, where the super-rich anchor their yachts, and the populated south with the capital Cagliari, lie several quiet areas where nature flourishes. Much of the west coast is relatively undeveloped. We joined bareback riders on horses along tracks, watched flamingos wade in salt marshes, visited ancient Nuragic ruins and sunbathed on the white-sand beaches of the peaceful Sinis Allen On the remote Croatian island of Lastovo, part of the Lastovo Islands nature park, we watched honey buzzards soar overhead and heard shearwater chicks calling to be fed at dusk. Lastovo is a dark skies island and we loved seeing the Milky Way sparkle so brightly. Most of the island is forested and the place remains very undeveloped, as a result of being reserved for the Yugoslav army until 1988. It's a natural paradise of pine-scented trails leading to quiet beaches and interesting flora and fauna. It can be reached by frequent ferries from Dubrovnik and Korč Innes-Wilkin I went on a hiking tour to see large mammals in Bieszczady national park in south-east Poland in 2022 and it was amazing – gorgeous landscapes, wild bison, red deer, wolves, brown bears, lynx and wild boar. We walked through haunting overgrown orchards as the landscape was abandoned after the second world war. I went as a solo traveller with a company called Wild Poland (I did a three-day tour that started and ended in Kraków – but there are lots of different options and prices on their website).Josie
The Guardian
5 days ago
- The Guardian
‘If you love adventure but not tourists': readers' favourite wild places in Europe
The Julian Alps are mostly in Slovenia, but I have gone on many trips to the little known Italian portion of this mountain range to visit old friends in the ski town Sella Nevea. The scenery is awesome: pointed white, limestone peaks above deep and mysterious pine-forested valleys. The books of mountaineer Julius Kugy romantically describe this large wilderness, the obscurity of which amazes me. Nature is abundant with various large mammals, bird life and flora. If you love alpine adventure but don't like tourists then seek it out, there's nobody there!Paul Stora Karlsö, off the west coast of Gotland, is one of the oldest nature reserves in the world and is a few hours' journey by train and ferry from Stockholm. It's a tiny, rugged limestone island, mostly just a high cliff with an alvar (grassy heath) plateau. There were lots of orchids and plenty of sea birds. Once sheltered from the wind, I found the fragrant air was incredible. I spent the night in a simple cabin and enjoyed a decent meal, but civilisation in the regular fashion was far away, and there was hardly any cell Guardian Travel readers' tips Every week we ask our readers for recommendations from their travels. A selection of tips will be featured online and may appear in print. To enter the latest competition visit the readers' tips homepage - Between Toulon and the Mediterranean, Hyères spreads across a series of headlands, salt flats and offshore islands. We based ourselves near the Giens peninsula, where the ancient pink salt marshes stretch out towards the sea, dotted with flamingos, herons and egrets. The coastal paths wind over rugged cliffs, with pine woods and scattered islands combining to create a setting of seabirds, wildflowers and open In the spring of 2023, my wife and I walked the 500-mile (805km) Camino de Santiago across northern Spain. The beaten track was busy, so we took every opportunity to deviate off it along alternative sections. Walking across the Meseta, the expansive, high central plateau famed for its isolation, we took the detour from Calzada del Coto to Mansilla de las Mulas along the Via Trajana, the old, cobbled Roman road. We were surrounded by birdsong, wildflowers and the ghosts of legionaries. Apart from when we stopped for a comfortable night and an immense breakfast at the Via Trajana hostel in Calzadilla de los Hermanillos, we only saw two other people in two days and 20 miles of The Carpathian forests of Romania, flanked by brooding mountains, are a brilliant place to lose yourself for a couple of weeks. On my hiking trip there last summer I spotted brown bears, wolves and lynx as I marched through valleys and woods. I came across medieval towns and villages that are rich in traditional folklore. One highlight was sampling local cheese and singing songs with villagers in the Barza valley. I was rewarded – or punished – for my musical efforts with a bumpy ride on a horse-drawn cart to the next village. Don't miss a walk up to Postăvarul peak (1,800 metres) for great views over the Thirty-five miles and three nights in mountain huts in the southern highlands of Iceland: the Laugavegur trail is a microcosm of the landscapes of that incredible country. Geothermal springs, high-altitude snowfields, multicoloured rhyolite mountains, black sand deserts and otherworldly moonscapes. Finally, the magical valley of Thórsmörk – Thor's Valley – amid birch woods enclosed by three glaciers. Staying in mountain huts means you'll feel part of a multicultural, international community of travellers, with the warmth and camaraderie this entails, with tales exchanged and memories made. Bill Duncan Sign up to The Traveller Get travel inspiration, featured trips and local tips for your next break, as well as the latest deals from Guardian Holidays after newsletter promotion Between the popular north coast of Sardinia, where the super-rich anchor their yachts, and the populated south with the capital Cagliari, lie several quiet areas where nature flourishes. Much of the west coast is relatively undeveloped. We joined bareback riders on horses along tracks, watched flamingos wade in salt marshes, visited ancient Nuragic ruins and sunbathed on the white-sand beaches of the peaceful Sinis Allen On the remote Croatian island of Lastovo, part of the Lastovo Islands nature park, we watched honey buzzards soar overhead and heard shearwater chicks calling to be fed at dusk. Lastovo is a dark skies island and we loved seeing the Milky Way sparkle so brightly. Most of the island is forested and the place remains very undeveloped, as a result of being reserved for the Yugoslav army until 1988. It's a natural paradise of pine-scented trails leading to quiet beaches and interesting flora and fauna. It can be reached by frequent ferries from Dubrovnik and Korč Innes-Wilkin I went on a hiking tour to see large mammals in Bieszczady national park in south-east Poland in 2022 and it was amazing – gorgeous landscapes, wild bison, red deer, wolves, brown bears, lynx and wild boar. We walked through haunting overgrown orchards as the landscape was abandoned after the second world war. I went as a solo traveller with a company called Wild Poland (I did a three-day tour that started and ended in Kraków – but there are lots of different options and prices on their website).Josie
Times
11-06-2025
- Times
Love wild swimming? Wait till you try it in this tiny, beautiful country
I almost wish I didn't have to tell you anything about my swimming trip to Slovenia. Part of me wants to keep it to myself so that nobody else ever discovers it. There was the startling beauty of Ukanc, a pale sandy beach on the bank of Lake Bohinj, a clear blue body of water under the Julian Alps. And the Sum waterfall in Vintgar Gorge that left my skin so soft I couldn't stop stroking it. Then there was the Jezersko Valley near the Austrian border where I swam in a lake that was the shape of a heart. That's just a snapshot of what Slovenia has to offer wild swimmers. With its clean, turquoise waters and dramatic alpine landscape, this eastern European country is a paradise for those who like to take a dip. Hikers and skiers, foodies and spa fans have long been coming, but I can't be the first wild swimmer who has spotted the potential of its 1,200 or so lakes and rivers. In fact, there are dedicated holidays for swimmers here, including those run by SwimTrek, while other tour operators, such as FlashPack and WeRoad, incorporate swimming into their packages. But it's easy enough to arrange a tour yourself, so I booked a rental car and three hotels in different areas that would give me access to several swim spots that appealed most. • Read our full guide to Slovenia Admittedly, I am more of a fairweather swimmer, mainly going to Hampstead Heath ponds in London in the warmer months, so it was with some trepidation that I committed to an entire holiday focused on being submerged. But as anyone who does it regularly can attest, nothing makes you feel more alive or more grounded than swimming in natural waters — especially while surrounded by mountains. Along with me for the ride was my friend Ally, a keen swimmer who'd come with me on a previous trip to Slovenia's coast in 2018. I'd seethed with envy when friends who'd stayed longer told me how incredible it was to swim in Lake Bled, the vast blue lake beneath the Julian Alps with a tear-shaped island in the middle, so I'd sworn to return. Ally came armed with wetsuits, swim hats and safety floats to tow. With just a few bikinis and a towel in my hand luggage, I realised we were approaching this trip from somewhat different experience levels. From Ljubljana, we set off northwest to Bled for our first swim. Grajsko Kopalisce is the lake's dedicated bathing zone on the eastern side, and was pretty crowded when we arrived. But jumping straight in to cool off after our flight felt like the perfect start to the trip. We stayed a few hours before moving on to our far less touristy next stop, 25 minutes' drive west, at Lake Bohinj. This is the largest natural lake in Slovenia, covering 790 acres within the Triglav National Park, which centres around the country's highest peak. • This charming capital is a perfect — and affordable — city break You can swim anywhere in the lake but our favourite spot was the tiny village of Ukanc, for its jaw-dropping view of the mountains. Near the shore was a lovely campsite, Camp Bohinj, that we wished we were staying at, though we could still make use of the toilets, showers and a restaurant serving delicious pizzas for £12 and beers at £3 a pop ( This was at the cusp of the summer season at the start of May, so there weren't many swimmers around. The water was bracing — we estimated it at around 12C — though it creeps up to 20C later in the summer. Ally managed 25 minutes' swimming around the perimeter while I mostly splashed about. Afterwards we strolled into the Triglav park, making our way up through the forest to Savica, a 78m-high waterfall. It isn't swimmable (the water isn't accessible from the viewpoint) but we did manage to dip in the emerald green river, Sava Bohinjka, which ran from the falls into the lake, though this was much colder, a-few-seconds-in-the-water-before-you-start-squealing-like-a-piglet-cold, providing more of a plunge than a swim. We stayed nearby at the eco-friendly Hotel Bohinj, where rooms have balconies overlooking the lake, and there was an impressive spa with an outdoor whirlpool, Turkish and Finnish saunas (naked ones, as is the tradition). Retreating there after a day of hiking and swimming was a real treat. • 33 of the best holidays around the world for your wish list Our next stop was the most remote: the Jezersko Valley, inhabited by just 668 people and surrounded by the snow-topped summits of the Kamnik-Savinja Alps. Signs dotted around the valley encourage good behaviour from visitors — 'On Jezersko: we always greet when we meet someone, we love and appreciate peace and quiet' — and to buy local produce. We also walked through the nearby Mostnica Gorge, full of emerald pools and complex rock formations, and the Vintgar Gorge, like something from a fairytale with its crystal clear water rushing between mossy rocks. At the end was Sum waterfall, where we took a freezing cold dip that had our hearts beating and endorphins flowing. Our hotel in this area was Vila Planinka, a 22-room boutique hotel with a sauna that guests can hire privately (no awkward nude interactions here) and wood-clad rooms reminiscent of a luxury ski lodge. One afternoon we hired mountain bikes and cycled through the valley, eventually cooling off in the man-made heart-shaped lake in the middle of the valley, which was created by locals in the 1950s in homage to a larger glacial lake that had long ago drained away. Afterwards, we pushed on to Ank's waterfalls for another extremely cold dip in some small plunge pools, and visited a famous mineral water spring, Jezerska Slatina, in a rural spot nearby, which is said to have the highest magnesium content of all mineral waters in Slovenia and which can be drunk from a tap pouring into a wooden trough. Dubbed 'healing water', it tasted a little like flat San Pellegrino and we gulped it down for our health. • 24 of Europe's best adventure holidays for all types of thrillseeker The food was special too. At Vila Planinka, guests are served four-course menus designed daily by the chef with everything sourced locally. We loved the beef broth with Slovenian pasta and a pickled quail egg, as well as a delicious strawberry soup served with sour-cream ice cream. Our final stop was Piran, a picturesque seaside town in the style of nearby Venice and once part of the Venetian empire. The weather had turned for this portion of the trip, so we spent much of it in the indoor pool (and the obligatory naked saunas) at our hotel, the Kempinski Palace Portoroz, a much grander and more opulent residence than our previous hotels. Eventually, one last sliver of sunshine appeared and we made it to Moon Bay, a pebble beach with crystal-clear water, encircled by cliffs within the Strunjan Nature Reserve, which Ally and I had swum from together in 2018. Sitting on a rock with our toes dangling in the sea, we reflected on all the ways our lives had changed since then, how lucky we felt to have returned, more dedicated to swimming than ever, and how peaceful we'd felt for the past few days. Then we dived in together and enjoyed one last swim. This time, the water was Petter was a guest of Vila Planinka, which has B&B doubles from £258 ( Kempinski Palace Portoroz, which has B&B doubles from £219 ( and Hotel Bohinj, which has B&B doubles from £219 ( Fly to Ljubljana
